Best speakers you can get.
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Bronze Member Username: Nocc1nLouisa, VA US Post Number: 28 Registered: May-05 | Alright guys i'm building a sq system. I have my subs and amps picked out. Now for speakers. I want to know what the best sounding sub with good mid-bass reproduction that I can find under 1800 dollars. I was looking at a few different brands and don't know which one I should choose because I like them all. I heard one of them today and liked the way it sounded a lot but i'm not sure. The ones I was looking at are... MB Quart Boston Acoustics Focal CDT I need 5.25's in the front, and 6.5 in the rear. So could someone who has expierence with all four of those help me out, it would be appreciated =) Thanks, Scott |
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Gold Member Username: Basshead86Ocala, FL USA Post Number: 1795 Registered: Aug-05 | if you are willing to spend $1800 on some components, then you will not need rear speakers, as many higher end speakers handle a lot of power and get VERY loud. |
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Bronze Member Username: 6spdcoupeNew Jersey U.S. Post Number: 13 Registered: Sep-05 | I agree with Muddy, with that budget a Very nice 3 way active front stage would be more than enough, with still some money to put back into your pocket. As far as the brands listed you need to specify which line of each. Personally none of them are my tastes. You may want to also look into Rainbow,DLS,SEAS,Morel,etc. Theres a ton of others also available that can be a good DIY set. Keep in mind there is no "best" set. The term is just way too subjective to each persons ears. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 10615 Registered: Dec-03 | what vehicle is this? before diving into a 3 way component set and finding out you're going to spend over a grand for the set and half that again to install it, see if the car even has the room for a well positioned 3 way set. All of the good three-way sets I know are over a grand. active, you're also talking about 6 amplifier channels, and someone with enough experience to know how to set that up, plus access to an RTA. All of which also costs money. the brands you're looking at tend to have aggressive, more harsh tweeters. The brands Don mentioned are at the other end of things, with a smoother, more fluid timbre. What sort of music to you listen to in teh car, and at what sort of volumes? do you plan to upgrade the charging system to handle large amplifiers? |
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ECON Unregistered guest | All my systems consist of nothing but CDT and MB Quart and I have been more than happy. If you want some honest user feedback on CDT and MBQ, then there it is  BTW, I have 3-way components up front and a pair of 6.5s in the rear + two 12s for subs and it works great...all active and with large amplifiers. |
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Bronze Member Username: Nocc1nLouisa, VA US Post Number: 29 Registered: May-05 | Well I will be getting an upgraded alternator, two yellow top batteries, I'll get the highest amperage of the yellow tops I can when I get my amps. This will go into a 1996 Chevy Lumina, I don't know about the clearance but I can make something work i'm sure. But I doubt I could fit like a 7" DYNAUDIO Type setup. I'll be listening to just about everything, mostly urban and rock though. I like loud, but I won't blast it all the time only when I'm at a competition or something since I want a competition setup. What is an RTA? And I can hook all of it up myself, I have been installing for about a year now but I haven't had expierence in hearing a large variety of speakers, my only selection of different brands come in subs since I have seen a lot of different kinds in and out of the shop. I want the perfect setup, so help direct =) |
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Gold Member Username: Mikechec9Http://www.cardomain.c... Post Number: 1126 Registered: May-05 | "I want the perfect setup" don't we all? a perfect set up would start off with the speakers equidistant from each other and from the driver. however, that's only likely to happen in a ford McLaren. time alignment offers you the ability to delay one speaker's signal that is closer to you, in order to have it arive at your ear at the same time as the passenger speakers. i drive a suv and the distance from the driver is significantly longer on the passenger side. so t.a. is extremely important. what you want to do is rent a real time analyzer (mentioned above), or have someone operate one for you and adjust/place the drivers where you have the flattest response. after that, you can then tune the system (eq, xo, t.a.) until you are as close to perfection as you can get. here is a great point of view from Mark Aldridge, one of the greats in the industry. "The real skivvy is that you want to minimize the differences, for a lot of reasons. Especially in the mid-bass through the midrange regions, the difference between left and right pathlengths is CRITICAL! In fact, between 100 and 400 Hz, the angle of the speaker won't even matter, as imaging cues are almost 100% determined by path length, not by intensity differences. Above 2000 Hz, imaging cues can be controlled by speaker angle and other intensity controlling techniques. Path lengths above 2000 Hz are not critical. As far as the path length differences between the mid-bass driver, midrange, adn tweeter on a single side, you'll probably never get them exactly the same. The real problems with path length differences here will be int eh frequency and phase response in the crossover range. Signal alignment can help some here, as long as the speakers aren't too far from each other. It's more acceptable to have a mid-bass amd midrange separated than to separate the mid and tweeter. The mid-bass frequency range can make a difference in the perceived stage depth,a dn the center image stability. But, the upper midrange and high frequencies are responsible for the stage height, width, and depth, as well as image focus. Keeping these frequency range drivers close together will be a lot easier to control all the variables than separating them. If you need additional stage height because the mid and tweeter are in the kick panel area, then add a second set of tweeters high and wide, and crossed over pretty high as well (somewhere between 8000 and 20000 Hz). This configuration is what has been used in most all fo the best sounding cars that use conventional drivers. And in most of the HLCD systems, the additional tweeters are used for the same reason. Anyway, locate the midrange drivers first, and work with them in their intended frequency range to achieve the best overall stage depth and center image. Don't worry too much about stage height or width yet. Next, locat the mid-bass drivers so they blend well with the mids, have solid output, and do not detract from the center image. Doors will likely not be the best place for them. They can be mounted under the dash, in the floor, in the firewall towards the center of the car from the kick panel, or where ever else they work, adn can have a large enough enclosure. The tweeters are the easiest. Mount them as close to the mids as possible, and make sure they give you the width and height you want, and help to focus the image performance. If you need the additional height, add the second set of tweeters. Path lengths are a different animal. They're kind of like the impedance of a woofer. Industry wide, we call a speaker a "4 ohm" or "2 ohm" speaker, when in reality, it is only really that impedance at one or maybe two frequencies. That's the "nominal" impedance which means "in name only." The actual impedance varies widely accoring to frequency. A "4 ohm" speaker in a box may have impedances as high as 50 ohms at resonance, and as low as 3 ohms elsewhere. Likewise, the sonic cues that affect what we percieve as staging and imaging are frequency dependent, and there is no one single number, technique, or what ever that can be used across the frequency board." what I tend to gather from his perspective is that a 3-way (properly installed and tuned) is superior to a 2-way, and you won't have to purchase an additional pair of highs as the mids go pretty high in most sets. your high stage results from your actual tweeters being mounted high in the a-pillars, while your mid ranges reside low with the midbass. here are some good sites on eq: http://www.ethanwiner.com/equalizers.html http://www.dak.com/reviews/Tutorial_frequencies.cfm and some great components: 1) DLS 2) Dynaudio 3) Rainbow 4) SEAS 6) Morel 7) Scanspeak 8) Phass 9) Focal 10)CDT |
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Gold Member Username: Mikechec9Http://www.cardomain.c... Post Number: 1127 Registered: May-05 | rta: http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_faq1.htm |
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Silver Member Username: Iufan4lifeulPost Number: 503 Registered: May-05 | if you like smooth, warm, loud, and distortion free bass look into the REXXX components. http://reaudio.com/html/. I do not have first hand experience with them but have heard good things about them. Mostly the fact that some people can't stand REALLY harsh sounds of some of the tweeters mentioned above. The RE components I think are warmer and smoother. Just an idea. |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 4865 Registered: May-04 | XXX isn't a great 2 way driver. Midbass output is nice, but it suffers in midrange performance. Adire Extremis is a better mid, but still has its quirks as a midrange driver. 3 ways such as Dynaudio and DLS have a good benefit in car audio, the fact that the dome mid and tweeter are sealed back and you have a lot of options for mounting them in kick panels for optimal placement. The DLS are easier to get set up because of the wider response of the midrange driver, but they're more quirky and do better with active crossovers. They also tailor themselves to having a tweeter up higher because of the high crossover point in that region (7khz). The Dynaudios are more difficult to install, but are less quirky with crossover points and do better out of the box. I find the Dyns more musical and natural overall, but the DLS are much easier to get good results with due to their design. And that has definately paid off in competition. |
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