Hey guys. First off...I've been in car audio for 4 years and have a fair amount of experience (6+ installs, all custom etc) and learned everything I know from an installer from the best car audio shop in San Diego (La Jolla Audio) who also had MANY certs etc.
At any rate, I recently starting burning up my JL Audio 1000/1 like crazy. I used to run 3 12w3s in a sealed box for almost a year until they blew. I replaced them with 3 12w6v2s in a beefed up box, but the rest of the install was ALL identical to what worked for a year on the w3s.
This install worked flawlessly for about 3 weeks until one day at mid-volume the bass turned off. The 1000/1 amp still had the green light and showed no issues. I powered off, and on the deck and it worked. This solution worked for a few days and then it wouldn't turn on at all.
I swapped the amp and this time it only lasted 2 days and the same problem. Three times now...
I have since gone from a single 4 guage ground (I grounded the entire system through my caps including the deck and all at a single awesome 4 gu ground) to a seperate ground for the 1000/1 and it didn't help. I also tried switching the voltage switch from low to high on the 1000/1 because I was told my Audiocontrol EQL linedriver was possibly boosting that too much.
Neither of those helped.
The only thing left I can think of is to test the impedence of the subs, seperately, while playing. I tested them and they ALL perfectly tested to 8 ohms when not playing.
any other ideas? I'm going insane here... (The voltage stays between 13.6 and 14.2 on avg during peak play).
What do you have for HU? What is the preout voltage on it? How is your system configured. Does it go from HU to EQL then to the amp? What was your JL 1000/1 gain/level set at? When it was blowing, was it set to low or high voltage? Why do you need the linedriver? That thing can boost/overload signals.
I have an Alpine 9807 that goes with a 4v out to the EQL, then to the 1000/1, then to the 300/4. Gains are at 50%. It has blown at high AND low voltage.
I don't *need* a linedriver...the EQL just happens to have one- or should I say the people at Tweeter (where I have my stuff warrantied) told me it does. I tried to look online and I couldn't find a single thing to clearly say if it does or doesn't but it does have gains and output knobs...so I am assuming it does.
This is what the description is for the EQL " * Dual-bandwidth Equalization * 6 Band, 1/2 Octave Bass EQ * 7 Band, 1 Octave Equalizer * Input and Output Level Matching Controls * Programmable Frequency Match (PFM) Subsonic Filter * Line and Speaker Level Inputs * Balanced Inputs "
So I don't really think it does have the line-driver...anyone able to confirm/deny?
You don't really need the linedriver, for starters, but since it serves as an equalizer, you can use it as long as you set the gain properly. Second, halfway at low input is a VERY high gain setting if you're using a line driver, it's actually a very high gain for average mid-level head units.
That being said, did you change from low to high after the amplifier had already messed up? The damage may have already been done.
My suggestion, is get another amp and/or your current one repaired, and set the gains correctly. Your installer should have an oscilloscope, and be able to verify that the gains are set correctly using a 0db reference test tone. After that, don't surpass the volume level the gains were matched with. I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but I'd guess that with you blowing those W3s, you're likely overdriving the system.
My buddy just went through 2 1000/1s also. But he has an Eclipse that puts out 8 volts, his switch was on high, and his gain all the way down. Nobody can figure out why these amps are blowing either. I think something is wrong with that amp that it can't handle putting out a lot of power. Maybe a design flaw.
Jonathan- I switched in a brand new undamaged AMP after the first one was damaged and I tried the HIGH switch n the voltage input. Still no luck...same results.
Again, I agree with no need on the line driver- it was an unexpected "bonus" when I got the EQL considering it doesn't even say it has a built-in linedriver anywhere...
I'm thinking first, ground the amp directly to chassis bare metal, and be sure you're using 2AWG or larger line off the battery to the amplifier(s) and no smaller than 4AWG from d-block to 1000/1
other than that the main issue I'd say frying your amp is a lack of adequate current to drive that much power since a 1000/1 at high output will draw over 100A of current by itself. Maybe time to upgrade the charging system. I've seen many many high end amps come back "blown" due to lack of proper charging systems over the eyars.
yup. the cap has to be in parallel with the amp, not in series anyway but it's always best to groung everything directly when possible instead of daisy-chaining the grounds.
I have 4 guage from teh battery back and between all amps/grounds. Also, the voltage indicators on the caps never even go below 13.5 or so even during the most intense continuous bass.
Still think I need to upgrade the alternator/and/or battery/power/ground wires?
I'd check voltage somewhere other than at a capacitor if you want an accurate idea of voltage drop, and use a VOM with an analog sweep so you can see the drops visually.
4AWG is only good for a peak current of 150A, and that deminishes with length of wire. You should be using 2AWG or 1/0 from the battery to a D-block if you have more than just the single 1000/1 amp