Hey, Ive got an 88 firebird. For the front speaks Im putting in 5.25" speaks, and you can also fit 4" or 4x6's in the dash. How would adding those speaks affect my soundstage. Also in the back I have got the option of 6x9's 6.5's or 5.25. Should I stick w/ the smaller ones so I avoid the "reverse soundstage"? Thanks for the help
6.5" separates in the doors (if you don't want to surface/flush mount the tweeters, stick them in the dash spots so they reflect off the windshield)
8" midbass drivers in the rear panels (they fit if you use midbass and not subs.. shallower speakers)
two 12" subs in back, in the drop section on a baffle board (watch the gas tank! don't screw into it) with amplifiers flush mounted into the flat section where the T tops sit when they're out of the roof.. makes the trunk area look flat, with two subs exposed, and the amp faces exposed. the rest of the system is pretty much stealth.
that dash is large enough that unless you use a flip screen head unit like a DVD player, you can use a BlitzSafe retracting shell that you mount the radio into, and the radio is retracted to hide it when the car is off, behind a blank plate. only mods needed for that is rerouting one air duct in back, and that's easy with some flex tubing.
AquaRite
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hmmm, that setup seems pretty sweet. I like the idea with the tweeters mounted in the dash, that didnt even come to mind! I dont like over-powering bass, so Id probably stick with one 12" But thanks alot on tips for that setup its really helpful.
AquaRite
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Since the 6.5's dont fit in the factory speaker cut-outs...how hard is it to enlarge the cut-out size. Do they make circle templates that go down that small, if so I would think it would be fairly simple.
AquaRite
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Sorry, 1 more thing, do the midbass drivers need boxes, or would the panels act like a box for them?
the 6.5" will fit but depth is the biggest issue due to the power window motors you can use 5.25" separates easily too if you're using 8" midbass anyway..
the 8" need no box. midbass drivers are made for infinite baffle mounting, but will need a notch filter (passive) to act as a bandpass filter for about 60Hz up to 250Hz. 250Hz and up for the 5.25" mids subs are 60Hz and under
AquaRite
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Do they make notch filters specifically for auto use? I have only seen them in "pro-style" audio set-ups. Also Ive heard of amplifiers that allow you to set hp/lp filters for individual channels, but again not on car audio. If that last option is available would that work instead of the notch filter? Thanks again
AquaRite
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I was also wondering if you guys had any speaker suggestions, I am looking to spend about 150-200 (and of course i love ebay) a pair. I have heard pretty good things about CDT and some of there speaks seem to fit my budget. Think that would be a wise move?
CDTR is very good. you'll need to make the passive filters yourlsef using caps and chokes. any decent installer should be able to build a set pretty cheap. 12 to 18dB slope, 60 or 80Hz up to 250Hz. that'd do the job well.
AquaRite
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Would you happen to know a website where I could look up more precisely how to build one, I have a basic idea in my head from what Ive delt with, but I do not want to start and screw myself up. Thanks for helping me (and about every one else on every other thread)out.
AquaRite
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I have heard from many people (mostly salespeople) that it is always best to match front and rear speakers. First off, is this just garbage they throw at you, or does it actually makethings easier? And that would not apply to the mid-bass speaks anyway right?