Wiring to the battery

 

New member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 6
Registered: Jul-05
Heya all,

My buddy wired his power line a little different then normal and I'm wondering if its okay to do that (because he's having technical difficulties now, like even at max power there is very little power in his system)

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He has his power wire start from the fuse box of his car. Is that right?
 

New member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 7
Registered: Jul-05
Let me make it a little more clear, This fuse box, is the Car fuse box.. and the power wire for his system is bolted on to where the battery power wire provides juce for the fuse box.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Firlefanz

Post Number: 11
Registered: Jul-05
Is there an amp in the system?
If its the cars fusebox and he goes from there to an amp, wich need some amount of current, either the fuses will blow constantly or the wire will burn at some point cause are normally to small.

Just take a look at these pics:
http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-77-4962.html

Remember a fuse should be not more than 30 cm behing the + terminal of the batterie.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Firlefanz

Post Number: 12
Registered: Jul-05
was al little slow there
 

New member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 8
Registered: Jul-05
yes, there is a amp in the system, i just didnt want to draw it in.. :-) He's not actually going "Through" the fuse box he's just bolted on his power wire to where the fuse box gets its power.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jaackdeth

United States

Post Number: 248
Registered: Sep-04
How big is the amp?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 8413
Registered: Dec-03
the amplifier(s) need to go DIRECTLY to the battery terminal for positive. Period.
Only thing between the amp and battery post should be a fuse and perhaps a distribution block for multiple amps.
The fuse box can't handle the current draw of an amplifier.. it'll melt, and you'll have a lot of problems when the car catches on fire.

tell your friend to wire the system right, or don't do it at all.
his idea was poorly thought out and ill advised
 

New member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 10
Registered: Jul-05
Xenon 1200.1 (Its fused)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Firlefanz

Post Number: 13
Registered: Jul-05
what size has this wire?
I'd recommend to go directly to the batterie terminal.
On the other hand if there is a power problem he should check his batterie load. Depending on the equipment he might change the battery or alternator?
What are the components the system consits of?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 11
Registered: Jul-05
Thankyou GlassWolf, that what i thought, but my friend wanted more proof. :D
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 8414
Registered: Dec-03
1200 watts, class D, that's as much as 120A of current alone.
the fuse box wiring, even on the battery side of the fuse box is designed to handle the current draw of the devices connected through the fusebox. If you draw an additional 100A of current through that wiring, you're going to fry things even if you're tapped in before the box itself.
the problem is the power line going from battery to fusebox can't handle it.

he needs dedicated 4ga cable MINIMUM for that amplifier.. 2ga if he's running more than a few feet or using two amplifiers.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 12
Registered: Jul-05
mmmm, well he's got 4AWG wire, and he's got 3 12" Xenons.. 500RMS each, got em wired in parallel too
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 8415
Registered: Dec-03
his proof is going to be when he sets his car on fire.. although he's already seeing issues which I'm guessing are things like his amp clipping from lack of current, which causes distortion and this is going to fry his speakers as well.

by the way for an amp that big he'll probably want or need a bigger alternator, too.
wait till he gets the bill for that upgrade
 

Bronze Member
Username: Oo22~

Post Number: 13
Registered: Jul-05
thanks all, i'm gonna go fix this mess up
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