ok, i got some good speakers for my car's door but the stock brackets that held the original speakers are just all open on the back and abunch of the sound gets lost in the door and the speakers distort when they shouldnt be. will this cup i put on there hold some of the sound in and improve the sound or just make it even more hollow?
ha! dude, that is so original. i see a great future in installing if you ever decide to go that way. what is that, hair grease? if it is sealed, it will plausibly be "better." i bought some foam inserts back in the day from crutchfield when i had the same issue. it improved the hollow problem. they are very cheap and worth the purchase if your grease cup fails. keep being imaginative like that though. i'm really impressed.
lol, thanks dude. well i dunno about the seled being better though. I had tried a small sealed wooden box i made for it and all it did was fuzz and distort due to the small airspace i guess. i was thinking of maybe trying a small wooden box but put a port on the side coming toward the front. would that help maybe?
Likely not going to help, and add a little resonance and possible vibration to boot. Best option would be to sound deaden the door as best you can and seal up the cracks, possibly mount the speaker to a wooden baffle to dampen the resonance. Most midbasses are designed to work infinite baffle, they don't do well in small sealed due to the tight suspension.
well i made a small wooden box that i think will fit in the door and since small sealed didnt work i was thinking of venting it somehow so that it can breathe. i have it in a large box in my bedroom hooked to my cheap 28 watt sony cd player and it sounds wayyy better than in my car running off my 200 watt pioneer deck. soon as i figure how to port this small tight enclosure i hope that works. its the only option i have left. nothing else fits in that door the way its built.
the wooden one i made, the black plastic one is the original one that sucks. then theres my idea for a vent. any other options so i can get some more volume? sealed in tightness like this just muffles and distorts it, so the vent is necessary.
that driver looks a lot larger than the 4" i thought it was. 4" don't reproduce adequate lows and require a baffle of some sort to "fill out" the sound. my 6.5 are sealed in a custom enclosure. if it were too large or too small, the driver would sound like yours. i am not familiar with porting enclosures other than subs. and even then the port is technically tuned. maybe jonathan has a bit more experience w/them. (those will fit in your door?)
I'm not talking about that small of a sealed box, I'm talking about sealing the door up, which will provide more than enough airspace. Sealing that wooden box up won't work well, and if you vent the speaker, all you're doing is allowing the rear wave to interfere with the front and cause cancellation, degrading your SQ and frequency response. Not good either way. If the speaker is distorting, it is because it is reaching it's limits, likely playing too low. You need a HPF on those speakers to get them to play cleanly.
yeah the box didnt work sealed or ported. I just put the original bracket back in. I sure with is could get it to sound in my door like it does in the big enclosure i have in my house. in the big enclosure it has good bass and sounds loud and clean. in the door, it just loses most of that and ends up too sssssssssssssssssharp sssssssssssssssssounding and not as full.
"In the doors, approximately 30 square feet of B-Quiet Brown Bread sound damping was applied to the inside of each door frame, along each crash bar, and both on the outside door panel and the inside of the door skin. To some, this may be overkill, but to establish the bass presence up front without any nuisance rattles, the amount of damping installed was critical. Once completely damped, the OEM baffle was mimicked in size and shape and a 14-layer birch baffle was constructed to eventually house a dedicated midbass driver in each door. The baffle was constructed out of cabinet grade wood and soaked fiberglass resin to ensure that the baffle was waterproof. Upon completion, each baffle was attached to a secondary piece of ¼" MDF, also soaked in fiberglass resin, which acts as the mounting ring, and was re-attached to each door using tamper proof hardware. A DLS Iridium series 6.5" midbass driver out of the DLS Iridium 6.3 set, was installed in each door at seven points of contact with the door and birch baffle, and the factory door skin was replaced over the speakers to conceal and protect them."
It may not only be the enclosure, it could also be the fact that you have an off axis installation in a car, as opposed to an on axis install in a home. It makes a big difference, especially with crossover slopes.