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System #1 complete / isaac .

 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 905
Registered: Feb-05
So finally im thru finalizing all the ingrediants in my system.

Head Unit - Elipse cd8454

Componant Speakers - Image Dynamics CXS62 - front stage

Amplifier - PPI art 300.2 for componant set

Subwoofer - Avalanche 15 sealed at 3.0 cu ft.

Amplifier - Orion HCCA 250g4

Wiring Kit - KnuKonceptz 1/0 awg installation kit , set at 100ANL for inline fuse.

RCA interconnects - 2 KnuKonceptz Klarity 2 Channel RCA Kable 5M

Distribution Block - KnuKonceptz Digital ANL Fuse Distribution Block w/ Fuses


Battery Terminals - KnuKonceptz Postive and Negative

In place of capacitor - BatCap model 800 Stereo Battery, more info here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796%26item%3D5769665880 %26%26


Only thing i will be missing is a HO ALTERNATOR. What else Isaac???? My stock alternator is 80A.
 

Anonymous
 
what did you do get the most power out that PPI amp to run your components what i mean did you run it at 2 @ 4ohms,or bridged?
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 906
Registered: Feb-05
My componants are 2ohm and my amplifier is 2 ohm stable x 2 which is perfect for that set. Isaac helped me find them. So it will be 150x2 rms to each.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2527
Registered: Nov-04
You've covered just about everything needed. If you feel you're not getting enough chrisp highs, add another pair of separte tweeters (I have 3 pair). A speaker baffle would help with weatherproofing and keep the ID from bottoming out with heavy bass.
If you're not going to get HO alternator, Orion MBR 70 and deepcycle battery would help.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 907
Registered: Feb-05
Where can i find a speaker baffle for the my ID chamoleons. They are close to 7". What is a Orion MBR 70 and where can i find that?
 

Anonymous
 
nice so if the nominal rating on the components are 4ohm then can you or not wire them up like subs where you can wire the set and drop it to 2 to get more power out of the amp because my set im planning on getting are 160rms but they are biampable too whatever that means?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2529
Registered: Nov-04
Orion MBR 70 is like an isolator but much better. You don't have to cut into your existing electrical system. Some isolator requires you to cut the ignition wire from the alternator.
Try searching on eBay for speaker baffle. I ordered mine from there I think. I'll check the invoice at home later.
Remember, take your time and do it right.
It took me couple of months for mine, mainly due to cold winter here.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2530
Registered: Nov-04
If you read on this forum, some guy is selling it. It is a discontinued product so very hard to get nowdays.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 908
Registered: Feb-05
So with my stock alternator being 80A and going with the batcap next to my amplifier and deepcycle under the hood plus this

(mbr70 - . Use this to seperate your car's battery from an auxilary battery. Also saves on draw from battery from main battery and alternator by only drawing 70 amps max.)

You think i should go with this or go with a HO alternator for my situation.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2531
Registered: Nov-04
HO alternator is your first choice, but if you can't get it, then Orion MBR 70 is a nice alternative.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 909
Registered: Feb-05
It says you dont need a Isolater with the batcaps???? read that and let me know http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796%26item%3D5769665880 %26%26
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2533
Registered: Nov-04
Since you have the 800 model, Orion MBR isn't needed.
If you had a starter batter and deepcycle in the trunk, then Orion would've made it better than batcap cause it'll hold more reserve power. Batcap 800 is only 70% battery.
I'm not sure if using deepcycle battery as a starter is a good idea. From what I've read, starter batteries give much higher number of starts and more power than deepcycle before it needs replacing.
For example, if a starter battery was good for 5000 starts, then deepcycle were half that number. All that means is, by using deepcycle as a starter, you're shortening it's life.
Don't worry too much about it though, cause it will still give you years of enjoyment.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2534
Registered: Nov-04
FYI, discharging deepcycle battery completely and recharging also shortens it's life significantly.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 910
Registered: Feb-05
Isaac i guess i will stay with my model 800 battery and wire my 2 amps to it and use my stock battery for starting the car. I dont listen to music with the car off so it doesnt matter. Im gonna run 1/0 awg down to the distribution block and then run 2 4awg wires to the batcap directly to the amps.... and run my grounds from it somwhere.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 911
Registered: Feb-05
i also plan on removing the rear stock speakers so i get better bass response.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 916
Registered: Feb-05
also that 30%capacitor that the batcap provides is alot more then 3-5 farads. That why i love this product.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2542
Registered: Nov-04
Instead of just removing the rear speakers, have you thought of making a bass port? I've seen some cars with it. "L" shaped pvc pipes will do wonders.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2547
Registered: Nov-04
MO, if you need the speaker baffle, go to installer.com. They have different depths for various speakers.
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 2560
Registered: Dec-04
Speaker baffles are KEY! I got mine custom made and they sound so much better then my Bostons mounted in the stock locations! Mo you should be fine, and for a starter batteryu you really cant beat the megatron's they are very nice. Just install everything and see how your electrical system is handling it with the batcap, if it is lagging then look intoan alternator its that easy man.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 917
Registered: Feb-05
Yeah def james,isaac, thanks for all the ideas and expertize.

The image dynamics are alittle bigger then regular 6 1/2 speakers. What are they exactly isaac? at installer.com for my set.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2548
Registered: Nov-04
MO, here's the actual location at installer.com website.
http://www.installer.com/speakerparts/index.html
You will see some spacers and baffles.
If you have the space (depth) in your doors, then get the 4 1/2" deep baffle.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 922
Registered: Feb-05
Yeah i have to find how much depth i have to work with. Its going in a camry or accord.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 925
Registered: Feb-05
bump
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 942
Registered: Feb-05
Hey isaac what do you think about this as another alternative? let me know

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26%26item%3D5768938910&ssPageName= STRK:MEWA:IT
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2566
Registered: Nov-04
MO, the link doesn't work.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 943
Registered: Feb-05
Alumapro 15 Farad Capacitor w/Relay & Breaker NR!!

search that on ebay. Let me know what you think.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 945
Registered: Feb-05
isaac check what my buyer wrote me and check what hes running..

yeah i used USPS and im gonna declare it $100-150 and i will mark it used/gift so he can save more money on duties taxes... He is a good guy and check out his car and system. this is what he wrote me.

Well I alreayd had a system in my car....
1 X PPI PCX-1500
2 X PPI PCX-2200
3 JL Audio 10W6v2

but the PCX-1500 was underpowering the subs....so im putting one
PCX-2200 for each Sub and Im getting 2 X PCX-2125 for the interior

Everything is for my 200 BMW 540i....click on the link before you will
see the car...
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/235174
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2575
Registered: Nov-04
MO I don't see how Alumapro 15 Farad Capacitor w/Relay & Breaker is going to help with alternator problem. Maybe for $50 it might be a cool toy to play with, but over $130? Not worth it. Glasswolf hates that anyways. Read up on thread about 3000w.
MO there's another person on this thread that's looking for JL 500/1 amp. I told him about you.
I have one question for your buyer. How did he install 3 w7 subs in his trunk? I can't see any space/volume for them. I doubt if he's getting great bass response.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 949
Registered: Feb-05
Thanks isaac, i will be promoting my New 500/1 amp and hopefully he will bid on it. So you checked out his setup?? He is running a PCX 2200 on each w6..thats crazy. Im wondering how his electrical system is working. He says he doesnt have HO alternator. Just the Alumapro 15 and Yellowtop in the back. He is he pulling that one off??? I mean he is running serious current and power
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2577
Registered: Nov-04
You might want to read up on 3000w thread. The guy is trying to do similar thing. I can't see how he'll be able to supply enough current for the amps. A BMW stock might be 95A or a little higher, but no way a yellowtop battery can supply the rest. If it did, it won't last more than few minutes.
I'm curious as to who designed the sound system in his car. Like I mentioned before, I don't see any box for the subs. Under the panel, there can't be no more than 5"-6" of depth. That's not enough for 3 w7 subs. And you know, a box with no depth/volume gives terrible bass.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 951
Registered: Feb-05
I know but he is running 3 10W6's. Ive seen that type of setup before with 1 or 2 subs. Not three in a small car space like that. Isaac this is what he wrote me last night.

Nope my friend owns a shop 10years+ he is amazing.....thats a good
setup u had but yoru only pushing 400watts per sub that way and your
stressing the amp.....

Nope i didnt change my alternator....added a second battery OPTIMA and
the best thing to do is add Allumapro 15 Farad...that thing holds
7000watts....its the best CAP
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2579
Registered: Nov-04
Whoa, that doesn't make any sense. Stressing an amp at 400w?? I can see it happening if you ran the amp @ 2ohms or 1ohms. Maybe his audio guy should get on here and explain his side of the story.
The Allumapro doesn't make any sense either. It's not a generator, not a battery, it's just a capacitor. So how can that hold 7000w??
A deepcycle battery may be able to handle 200A+ for few minutes but won't be able to sustain it much longer. 2nd battery will double that time, but you can see, it will not last.
Things people will do to avoid HO alternators. Do they know that it's cheaper than getting 2 yellowtop battery plus custom installation?
The only easy way I can explain it is by using water pipe analogy.
The water pump is the generator, and water tank is the battery/capacitor. If you needed to fill up a bathtub every hour, small pump will be adequate cause between the pump and water tank, it will be able to cover. Now if you needed to fill a swimming pool every hour, would a bigger tank do? No cause once the tank runs out of water, it'll have to wait for the small pump.
Adding 2nd battery is like adding another water tank. It helps as long as the demand doesn't exceed the tank's supply.
So how can someone say, a capacitor and battery can replace HO alternators? Not possible.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 953
Registered: Feb-05
Well i dont know how his car is handling all that power isaac??? i gotta ask him to get on here and explain.. i will email him to find out.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 3783
Registered: May-04
If your amp isn't clipping and you have enough power supplying the amp, it isn't stressing itself. It's that simple. Isaac gave a good analogy on capacitors vs. HO alternators.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 954
Registered: Feb-05
Yeah i know that jonathan.. its just my customer from last night that bought my ppi pcx 2200. He is using 3 10w6v2's and he is using ppi pcx 2200 to each one. THat is 3 800watt amps to 3 400rms subs...lol.. thats not needed. Here is a link to his current setup.

Well I alreayd had a system in my car....
1 X PPI PCX-1500
2 X PPI PCX-2200
3 JL Audio 10W6v2

but the PCX-1500 was underpowering the subs....so im putting one
PCX-2200 for each Sub and Im getting 2 X PCX-2125 for the interior

Everything is for my 200 BMW 540i....click on the link before you will
see the car...
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/235174
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 959
Registered: Feb-05
still cant believe he is running all that guys
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 2607
Registered: Dec-04
Hey Mo isnt that amp 800x1 at 4ohms? he is prob running each w6v2 in series at 8ohms only getting roughly 400 watts per sub which is perfect for those subs. the w6v2's can only be run at 8ohms or 2ohms and that amp isnt stable at 2ohms mono.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 960
Registered: Feb-05
right.. either way thats to big of an amp for 1 10w6 and hes putting 3 pcx2200 on 3 10w6. hes also running a pcx2125 for speakers. He hasnt upgraded to a HO alternator and is only using a yellow top and allumapro 15.. me and isaac were like what?????
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 2618
Registered: Dec-04
yeah I hear ya on that but that amp is actually a perfect match for those subs 1 per sub. He is running 1450 watts at peak power, with that extra battery he really might be ok with that lets see 1450/12= 120 damn I still take that back lol! thats a lot of power to be run on a sock electrical system.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2588
Registered: Nov-04
If that guy ever gets drunk or someone dares him to crank up the volume, he'll blow the electrical components in the BMW.
There are lot of people with extra batteries that think it's better than getting HO alternator. I've actually met some car mechanics here that told me the same thing. Can't believe they call themselves a "licensed" car mechanics. That's like a dentist prescribing an apple to fix your cavities.
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 2620
Registered: Dec-04
hahahahaha seriously. I saw a guy once with 6 optima yellow tops with 20K fared's worth of cap's
running on a stock alt. I almost died! If he would have taken 1/100th of the money he spend on all that cr!p and installed a decent 200 amp alt he would have never needed all of that stuff. I dont know why people get so intimidated by doing a high current alt. I think because it goes from stereo work to engine work and people get intimidated by messing with the engine but little do they know it is their power plant under the hood for their entire electrical system.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 3786
Registered: May-04
I don't get it either. They make alternators extremely simple now with internal voltage regulators and a one wire hookup, and people are still scared to touch it. God forbid they had to go back to an old car and hook up stator wires.
 

Gold Member
Username: Invain

Michigan United States

Post Number: 2130
Registered: Aug-04
Well, most people are pretty "mechanical dumb" anways. Seems like every other american now-a-days can't even change their own d@mn oil. Either they don't know what the alternator really even does, or they would have no clue on how to change it, it'll always be a mystery to me. Personally, a cap would be the absolute last thing I installed in my car, and I never really intend on owning one.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 962
Registered: Feb-05
so isaac with my current setup of only 2 amps and total fuse's of 90A do you think a 200A alternator is the way to go and will i be ok running my current system until i get one?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2603
Registered: Nov-04
Yea, you should be good to go. Just don't go overboard till you get HO alternator.
Remember, dimming lights are your best friend.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 967
Registered: Feb-05
Im trying to decide where if anywhere i whould get my HO alternator from. I know about www.excessiveamperage.com and www.mralternator.com and www.4alterstart.com Ive heard good things but which place is the best in your opinion.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 969
Registered: Feb-05
Oh yeah and look what i found on knukonceptz:

Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable
Item #: KRY2-6M
Category: RCA Interconnects
Price: $19.99


http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?StartRow=11&Category=RCA%20Intercon nects

Its the new one for 2005 and this time it comes twisted and the other one which was the blue klarity wasnt. Also they have both positive and negative battery terminals now.. Does it make a big differance between the klarity blue and this krystal black rca interconnects thats twistid when it comes to sound ???
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 976
Registered: Feb-05
isaac look what i found last night on knukonceptz
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2613
Registered: Nov-04
MO when it comes to sound quality, there is no difference. The twisted pair and shielding on the black cable is better than the blue (probably straight through).
Since you're only going to wire it once, I'd spend a little extra and go with the black twisted pair.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 977
Registered: Feb-05
Isnt 1 distribution block all i need ?
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 978
Registered: Feb-05
Isaac, check it out... i dont really need it cause im probably gonna upgrade to the HO alternator but its tempting.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D5769548122%26&sspagename= STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT%26
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2616
Registered: Nov-04
Shoot, if my connection at work allows it, I'm going to bid on it! Ha ha, it is a great product.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2617
Registered: Nov-04
MO you need one for pos and ground. If not, you will have to make 2 or 3 ground wires. It'll cost you more than the d block.
Oh I got a warning saying I've accessed ecoustics too often! So are they saying I shouldn't help? ha ha, very funny.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 979
Registered: Feb-05
Im probably just gonna get the HO alternator instead even though this product is good.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2619
Registered: Nov-04
I can't get access. You should get it. Very useful even with HO alternator.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 981
Registered: Feb-05
Man, i lost by $3.00 and i wasnt quick enough to make it $80.00. IT ended at $77
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 982
Registered: Feb-05
Guess i will stick with my new BATCAP model 800 stereo battery. So when i run my 1/0awg to the distribution block then i can split into two 4awg power wire going to the BATCAP right? and from there to my 2 amps?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2621
Registered: Nov-04
$77? That person got a deal. MBR 70 is one product that you can sell later for a profit. I think I paid $81 for mine last year.

That wiring should work cause batcap is still a cap.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 983
Registered: Feb-05
That is a steal deal. I actually bid $76 on it and i lost by one louzy dollar...lol Oh well i still have my batcap to work with.

btw isnt 1 distribution block enough? If i do get another distribution block for the grounds which one do you suggest from www.knukonceptz.com cause thats where im making my order today.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2623
Registered: Nov-04
PB-2044 Ground Distribution Block should work for you.
If you only get one, then will you be creating 2 separate ground wires? Anytime you increase the number of ground wires, you also increase the chance of ground loop in the process.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 984
Registered: Feb-05
where do you start my ground from???

i know each amp has a separate ground but where do i start my ground and split it..just confused
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2625
Registered: Nov-04
What I did on mine was, I took the best ground wire and fed that to the d block.
Remember, to keep the overall wire to 18" or less if possible.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 985
Registered: Feb-05
So your saying, find a good ground and then run 1/0awg wire to the ground distribution block and split it into two 4awg for each amplifier ground???

Cause that one you said is $16.00 and has 4 outputs. Is there anything else that cost less and does the same thing.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 986
Registered: Feb-05
also whouldnt this work the same ??

BC-1024 Kompression Ground Distribution Block
( Knukonceptz Item #BC-1024 )
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2626
Registered: Nov-04
Correct.
There's a similar d block on eBay @ $14. Maybe you might want to try that to save $2?
BC-1024 also works but it only has 2 4gauge outs. Doesn't leave you much for anything else in the future. Spend the extra $2 or $4 and get 4 outs.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 989
Registered: Feb-05
lol..i wonder what else i whould need in the future isaac??? help me figure it out..lol

Maybe you know somthing i dont..lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2628
Registered: Nov-04
Well I installed infra video camera near my license plate. Very handy at night parking. I'm also thinking of buying electric fense shocker. It operates on 12v. Very good hidden security for the car.
I also will install a PA speaker under the car somewhere for projecting loud music/voice. All of these require power, so having a d block with 4 outs gives you more options.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 990
Registered: Feb-05
I went ahead and got the distribution block with 2 1/0 and 4 4 awg out just in case.

Does the BATCAP need to be grounded?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2630
Registered: Nov-04
Treat batcap like a capacitor. Same wiring principle.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 992
Registered: Feb-05
Oh ive never installed a capacitor let alone anything but im planning on learning. Here is instructions on it.

http://www.batcap.net/Installation.htm

How do i wanna do it with that distribution block i just got???
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 993
Registered: Feb-05
As you can see it says the best way to do it is to run a seperate ground from the car battery just like the power line for least voltage drop and it says to stay away from chassis grounds.. what you think?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2631
Registered: Nov-04
Follow fig. 3 on the instruction diagram and you'll be fine.
So basically, ground goes to d block, and from there one goes to batcap and the other to the amp. Keep the batcap's wire as close to the amp as possible.
 

Silver Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 994
Registered: Feb-05
Ill follow fig. 3, thanks man
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1015
Registered: Feb-05
For best results, just make sure that you have direct wire connection from the Model 800 to your amps for BOTH (+) & (-). Make sure to upgrade your "ground" from the Alternator to your Front Battery and from your Front battery to the frame. If you can run a dedicated "ground" line from your front battery to the BatCap out back, that would be even better.

you think i should run that seperate ground from the battery to the distribution block and go from there.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2682
Registered: Nov-04
Nah, your chassis is the ground and it's connected to the battery's neg post. The thing with neg ground wire is that, you will want to keep it as short as possible. So the last thing you want to do is have 15' of ground wire in your car.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1016
Registered: Feb-05
OK so you suggest i stick with fig.3 and incorporate the distribution block accordingly
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2684
Registered: Nov-04
Yup. Just make sure you have solid ground contact, and it's around 18" or less in total length.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1018
Registered: Feb-05
will do
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1025
Registered: Feb-05
"MO, here's the actual location at installer.com website.
http://www.installer.com/speakerparts/index.html
You will see some spacers and baffles.
If you have the space (depth) in your doors, then get the 4 1/2" deep baffle"

Isaac whould you happen to know if i could fit 4 1/2" deep baffle?? its going in a camry most likely. Alot of cars ive seen dont have 6 1/2" speaker locations in the front and i like some of those cars. Do they cut a hole or somthing and make room for them in those cases..?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2706
Registered: Nov-04
MO, why don't you buy one of each? That is what I did. Near the kick panel in Acura, 3" fits. However, if you use a 1" spacer then 4 1/2" should fit. It all depends on how you install the speaker.
Don't forget, it's a soft foam so it can be forced to fit.
I'm going to put some polyfill with my baffle.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2707
Registered: Nov-04
Walmart sells them for $10 for almost 5lbs of it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1028
Registered: Feb-05
I may get one of each and see. Why do you use polyfill??

What i meant is most cars have 3 1/4 or 4" or 5 1/4" speaker locations in the front. What if i had a car that only fit 5 1/4 or somthing?? Is there a way to make the hole bigger to fit a 6 1/2 like most popular componants are.??? To custom fit a bigger componant like 6 1/2. Because there are some cars i like but they have smaller speaker holes in the front stage...
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2713
Registered: Nov-04
You can use the 6.5" spacer on 5 1/4" hole. It'll bring out the speaker 1" so the hole on the door will be large enough for the magnet on 6.5".
It's just plastic/steel body. It can be made to fit. That is what I did with my car. I have a cutter, welder, and body filler. With those 3 combo, you can make anything work.
On my custom speaker enclosure that I made out of 6" pvc pipe, I welded the bracket onto the steel door, and then painted it over with silver to blend in.
All it takes is some imagination and lot of hard work.
The reason why I am going to polyfill is during testing, I've noticed that the baffle vibrates under heavy bass, so with polyfill padding inside, it should provide some gap between the foam and the magnet's frame.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1029
Registered: Feb-05
Ok back to the BatCap for a moment. I know you said to follow figure 3 but if i run a designated ground from the engine battery to the batcap and use another ground from the chassis ground in the trunk to the distribution block and to the batcap and amps whould that make a differance at all as far as voltage drops because i whould still be under 18" using the chassis ground while using the long run also right?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2715
Registered: Nov-04
You're forgetting about noise pick with long ground wire.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1032
Registered: Feb-05
Isaac check this out bro.. its RAW

http://www.batcap.net/8400spec.htm
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2717
Registered: Nov-04
Man if that guy ever gets rear ended, he's going to have some fireworks!
I took my 18" sub out and re-did my box by applying glue all over the corners and joints, including the speaker terminal connectors. Now it is air tight. I even applied sealing glue on the screws. After it drys tomorrow, it'll be complete.
Inside the box, it's like cloud 9. Polyfill all over.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1035
Registered: Feb-05
Awesome..let me know how it sounds..
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2723
Registered: Nov-04
Okay, the sub sounds very clean. No more "boxy" feeling. I think all the polyfill I did is making the bass a bit softer.
The 250G4 really delivers. I used 275A starter/charger which was supplying 16.5v to the amp (that's almost 1000w rms). I think that is the max my 18" sub could take. The sound wasn't that loud to my ears, but everything in the room was vibrating. I had the crossover to amplify 60Hz or lower, so the bass was more of a "feel" type.
I think 2 of 18" subs would definitely produce super low bass that can be heard blocks away.
James if you think 600.2 amp sounded clean, wait till you push the G4 (not a hit of dirtortion). At or near 1000w, the amp will get hot, but not hot enough to fry an egg. Just hot enough to warm up your hands during winter.
I think 275G4 will kill my sub, cause 250 was moving it to the max already.
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 2681
Registered: Dec-04
Hey Isaac I get everything finished up and the 250 put in I cant wait man!!!!!!!!! I have been driving around with my damn components and rear fill for the last two weeks it has been killing me. When I first put my 15 in its box I didnt use polyfill but I was running it at 4ohms so I had to take it out and re-wire it down to 1ohm for the g4 and I am gonna stuff it up with some fill. I will see the difference, I cant wait man.

.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1039
Registered: Feb-05
OK isaac and james i just got my order shipped today for that Orion HCCA 250g4 so i open the package and it turns out to be a 250G5 instead???? They both look exactly the same and it has the same features? What do you guys think? is it the same? Should i keep it or send it back?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2730
Registered: Nov-04
Read your other post. Check the amp's case for "painted" Made in USA sign. If it doesn't have that, then it's made else where.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1042
Registered: Feb-05
made in KOREA man..this sux. THey had false advertisment on there site for a g4 and now i get a g5 thats not even made in the USA. Im sending this back. What a hassle.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2733
Registered: Nov-04
MO, use that situation to your advantage. Don't let them off the hook that easily. Email/call the manager and talk to them how you were mislead. Then explain that you would love to continue shopping at cardomain.com if they can help you regain their trust.
Who knows, they might even give you a discount on future purchase. Whatever you do, don't just send the amp back for nothing.
It's a mistake no vendor should make, and they know it. So work it.
Something similar happened to me before and I wrote them a nice email. They decided to give me discount on shipping and a free gift.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Post Number: 1048
Registered: Feb-05
I already talked to the guy and got the return authorization # but i will email them tonight so they know im unhappy. Now im on the hunt for another amplifier for my Avalanche 15. James found me one on ebay for a 250R???
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