Bypassing lowpass crossover on xtant 1001dx?

 

New member
Username: Strode

Ft Collins, CO

Post Number: 8
Registered: Apr-05
is there any way to do this? it comes with the regular 80Hz crossover, but i'd rather have it around 120-140Hz. i don't really want to buy a crossover (i don't even know if i could find one)because i can control the frequency from my deck. i listen to drum&bass a lot and the higher bass notes just aren't getting the play they deserve, getting cut off at 80Hz, even with the crossover set on 12db/octave.
 

New member
Username: Strode

Ft Collins, CO

Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-05
yeah so i tried to unplug the crossover thing, and i got no sound as a result. i even tried to flip it the other way, but the crossover was still there. so i guess my next question would be anyone got a 120Hz or 150Hz SIP crossover for an xtant 1001dx?

help me out
 

Gold Member
Username: Hdubb

Farmington, Nm Usa

Post Number: 1327
Registered: Nov-04
120 to 150 is very high, why do you want to do this?
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1003
Registered: Sep-04
You can build one.

http://www.audioart.com.au/products/xtant/techtips.html#creating

Just put some heat shrink on the leads of some 1% 1/8-1/4w individual resistors and stick six of them in the holes. I'd use heat shrink so you don't have to worry about shorting them. If you "J bend" them like Xtant suggests and alternate them from side to side and were careful you'd be able avoid shorts as well.

If you're uncomfortable with this idea you could probably order one cheap(not from Xtant) once you figure the resistance you need.

I've got a 1001dx and just got a Clarion DRZ-9255 with an onboard digital xover I'd like to be able to play with. I plan on just dropping in a sip(or maybe 6 resistors) that'll give me a LP anywhere above 250 Hz and just use the one in my h/u(~50-80 Hz, 6-18dB/oct) along with it.

Personally I don't like anything higher than 80 Hz for rear mounted subs. Above that the bass starts becoming too directional and effects your front stage. If you can I'd look into better/bigger front midbass drivers and/or more power up front to get those drum hits crankin.

Well regardless for.....

120 Hz you'd need a "683" 12 pin sip(or six 68 kohm resistors)

and

for 150 Hz you'd need a "563" 12 pin sip(six 56 kohm resistors).

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1004
Registered: Sep-04
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=267594&Row=170757&S ite=US

I couldn't find a 120 or 150 Hz 12 pin(yet), but that 10kohm one would set the LP on the 1001dx at 700 Hz and you could just use h/u's xover to get 120 or 150. I don't think that amp plays much over 250 Hz so you shouldn't even notice that extra LP(2+ octaves higher) especially if you use the 12 dB/oct jumper.

$2.36 ain't bad. Wonder what they'd charge for shipping. You could stick one in an envelope for pete's sake, hehe.

-Fishy
 

New member
Username: Strode

Ft Collins, CO

Post Number: 10
Registered: Apr-05
fishy you're the man. yeah the music i listen to is all electronically produced, and the bass is distinctly separated from the treble, but hits at a lot of different bass frequencies, and the higher ones just sound like crap when i run them through my mids, especially on big bass drops where it starts in the midrange and transfers to the sub for the lower end. i want ALL of it to come through the sub, and don't have the money for a nice pair of midbass speakers, because it wouldn't just end there, i'd have to get all kinds of other stuff to correctly match them to the sub, blah blah blah.
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1006
Registered: Sep-04
I can't remember what I paid for my Xtant sips, but you might want to check with a dealer. They can get you what you need if shipping from digikey is unreasonable or if the xover slope on your h/u isn't what you want.

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1007
Registered: Sep-04
Ft. Collins huh. My Mom was born in Colo Springs and is in Manitou right now workin on a book about her mother(local author). We got a place in Westcliffe and I'll probably be out there this summer catchin Brookies. Gotta get my system tweaked for that long@$$ drive, hehe.

:-)

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1008
Registered: Sep-04
Duh, I'm thinking Fort Carson. Oh well same state anyways.

-Fishy
 

Bronze Member
Username: Strode

Ft Collins, CO

Post Number: 11
Registered: Apr-05
yeah too bad there are no xtant dealers in or near ft collins anymore. but there was a $5 handling charge, and shipping was like another $4 lol.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7647
Registered: Dec-03
leave the subs crossed over at 80Hz. use midbass drivers to handle 80-150Hz and use midrange front stage speakers for 150Hz+

if you use subs to cover more than the bottom two octaves, the result will be a boomy, unpleasant sound and a loss of low, tight bass. subs just aren't made to play 140Hz in cars. that's why they make 8" midbass drivers to complement the subs.
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1011
Registered: Sep-04
Yeah, you may not like the way your subs sound at 150 Hz. Before you drop a bunch of cash on a sip just go get 6 10k resistors from radio shack and J bend em and test out a few LP points with your deck's xover.

Lol, 9 dollars s/h on a 2 dollar part you could send by carrier pigeon. Crazy.

:P

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2437
Registered: Nov-04
That's nothing. Some of these eBay "Power" sellers are trying to make maximum profit with shipping costs. One flash card for Apple Newton was $4.95. The shipping was $35! How can someone charge that much for a small piece of product that weighs less than quarter of a pound and is 5" by .001" thick???
I should've emailed them for being greedy.
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