Unregistered guest | I'm experiencing a problem on my KDC-V7017. A month or so ago, the screen went blank and the LEDs wouldn't light up, but it was still working, now it'll turn on for about 30sec, then just stay at the position where you pull out the faceplate. I tested the continuity of the flexible wire thing, and the two far right(looking down on the faceplate holder) connections don't have continuity. I was wondering where I could get the new cable and how to get it out from under the thin plastic cover on the faceplate holder. Thanks! |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 25 Registered: Apr-05 | Getting the cable out will be a bit more difficult than you think,but still somewhat easy. You're going to have to take off the top cover, then have to remove the CD mech(which is about 4 screws more or less) and remove the ribbon cable which is connecting the CD mech to the board underneath. Then you will have access to the broken cable you are talking about which is mounted on the main PCB. You might also need to unscrew the plastic cover so you can dettach the other end of the ribbon cable. As far as getting a new cable goes, I know that they are out there, i'm just unsure of where you could find one. It shouldn't cost more than twenty dollars. I'll see what I can find. |
Unregistered guest | yeah, I already did that stuff, but how do I get it out from under that thin plastic cover? can I take it off somehow? http://img200.exs.cx/img200/2581/dsc064954qx.jpg it's the piece with the left pointing arrow. can I take that whole cover off? I'm just curious as to how I'd reroute the ribbon cable if I can't really see what I'm doing. thanks |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 35 Registered: Apr-05 | Yeah, you're going to have to take it off no matter what, but can you get a picture of the underside of the unit and maybe a little closer? It appears that you're going to have to take the whole piece off that holds the face plate on if you want to remove the thin plastic cover. How many screws have you taken out of it, anyway? And how many are left to unscrew from that piece? If you could find a service manual, this would be a great deal easier. |
Unregistered guest | I have to go to work now. Either when I get back or tomorrow, I'll take a look at it and get some better pics. Just getting the cable out has me stumped. I've already gotten it out of the reel type thing that it was in for the motorized part. I looked for a service manual, but couldn't find any free ones. I'm not sure how to take off the whole faceplate holder, I took a look at it when I first took it apart(few weeks ago), but couldn't figure it out. Thanks for the help. |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 37 Registered: Apr-05 | Ok, I took a look at a service manual for one of these and found that you're going to have to peel that cover off, it is like a thick sticker that is glued on in a way. This isn't the first time i've seen Kenwood do something like this either. Also, before you do that you're going to have to unscrew that mount where the terminals connect to the faceplate. |
Unregistered guest | think you could scan a couple pages of it and email it to me or something? does it say the part number for the sticker thing? |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 40 Registered: Apr-05 | I just took a quick glance at a manual at work, and I don't have access to a scanner there. I wish I could do more, really... The manual was very thin and mostly consisted of wiring diagrams, so basically the only view I got of how to take it apart was of an exploded diagram of the whole unit. I'll have to look at the manual again to get the part number for you(which will be Monday, since that is when I go back to work), but I don't see why you would need it. It can easily be taken off and reapplied without damage if that's what you're worried about. Do you have an instant messenger or something? If you did, this would be a lot easier! |
Unregistered guest | yeah, A1iveOut0fHabit is my AIM screen name. Yeah, I was worried about breaking that thing..all I have to do is pull on it? |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 43 Registered: Apr-05 | Yeah, pry it off with a smaller flathead screwdriver. My AIM is illuminator32, hopefully we can discuss this more there... |
Unregistered guest | success! http://img205.exs.cx/img205/3712/dsc065013fs.jpg now am I going to have to order that black box at the end as well? I'm not sure if it's soldiered on or not, I didn't want to pull on it too hard as I didn't know if it was salvageable or not. thanks |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 51 Registered: Apr-05 | I'm pretty sure that you're going to have to solder it off of the ribbon cable and onto the new one. Do you have the new one yet? |
Unregistered guest | I didn't order the new one yet, because I didn't know what all I needed. I think it's recommnended to get a new one when ordering the cable. |
Unregistered guest | find anything else out? I don't want to go and order the cable and then have to wait because I had to order another part. you seem to be very knowledgeable w/this stuff, so what do you think? |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 64 Registered: Apr-05 | If you have the necessary equipment i.e. soldering iron, solder, rosin core, then I think you should just solder off the old black box and solder it on the new ribbon cable once you get it. Do you know how long it will take for the new cable to ship? |
Unregistered guest | yeah, I have a soldering iron and some rosin core solder. I have no idea how long it'll take to ship. do I need a special soldering iron or can I use our single-tipped one? there aren't any heat range adjustments on it.. |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 67 Registered: Apr-05 | The soldering iron you have should work fine. Just in case you need it, the part number for the black box a.k.a. "Rectangular receptacle" is E58-0863-15 |
Unregistered guest | so I'll have to solder it on to the new ribbon cable, right? |
Unregistered guest | do you think I should just buy it? it's only $10 or so from what I can remember |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 81 Registered: Apr-05 | You might as well buy it, and if you can't get the new connector to solder on right, you always have the old one as spare parts. |
Unregistered guest | alright, thanks..I'm gonna order the stuff now. I hope this solves the problem. |
Unregistered guest | wait a second, on the kenwood parts page, it says the receptacle is PN: E58-0903-05. the cable is PN: J84-0121-12, right? here's the description "FLEXIBLE CABLE FROM FACE TO UNIT KDC516S KDC5019 KRC609 KDCX917 MANY OTHERS( NOTE: THIS PART DOES NOT COME WITH THE RECEPTACLE THE PART # IS E58-0903-05 AND IS RECOMMENDED FOR THE REPAIR" |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 85 Registered: Apr-05 | Their site is probably more correct, I've been getting the part numbers from the service manual, and the service manuals get oudated often due to parts being remanufactured, rebuilt etc. Definitely go by what the site says. I actually ordered some parts for my DEX-P1R about four months ago, and two out of the eight ordered already had differing part numbers from that of the manual. |
Unregistered guest | alright, I'll go with what the website says. thanks |
Unregistered guest | got the parts today, gonna solder them together soon! |
Unregistered guest | Soldered it up, installed it, works beautifully! Thanks for the help. |
Bronze Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 94 Registered: Apr-05 | You're welcome! That's great to hear it's working again! |