ok i have 1 12" kicker l7 2 ohm solorbaric a 1000 watt kenwood amp kac 7252 a pioneer premier deh p80mp head unit and a 1.2 farad cap. first of all i got it all hooked up and about 2 mins. later i blew a 40a fuse so i tried another and blew it any suggestions??? then i was sitting there and my truck was running for about 2 mins and my truck died i tried to start it and the batter y was dead then i found out that the alternator took a crap any suggestions?? it's driving me ape sh!t!
What gauge wire do you have to the amp? What fuse blew the in-line or the amp? Make sure you hot wire is not grounding out somewhere. If you did not charge the cap it might drain the battery when the cap is hooked up. Get your battery and alternator checked. Also did you bridged the 2ohm sub?
ok i am sorta new to this stuff the fuse blew in the amp and the capacitor my friend helped me with that but how do you charge it just to make sure? i bought a new alternator and i am thinking about getting a bigger battery?? and yes we bridged it and i went to a local dealer and he said not to bridge a 2 ohm sub because i have a 2 ohm amp so that problem will be fixed the gauge wire is 4 gauge and how long does it take to charge a cap??? thanks alot man!
Before permanently installing it, it must be charged. Failure to do so could lead to blown fuses and lots of sparks! Some capacitors come with charging resistors. If yours does not, you can simply buy an automotive bulb and wire it in series with the capacitor's + lead while the capacitor is grounded. The bulb will continue to dim until the capacitor is fully charged. Once the capacitor is charged, it should be treated as you would a car battery; caution must be used to be sure not to short the terminals. If you have the cap hooked it up then it's charged and will work the same. I think most of your problem was the way you wired you subs.
the power acoustik capacitor i bought came with a resistor with 2 wires hanging off it i am not sure how to hook up the cap. and i dont know how to install the resistor?? and how long does charging take? also should i hook the 2 power wires in to one side then 2 grounds to the negative and let it charge by itself?? for how long and i dont know where the resistor goes? thanks again. if you could tell me step by step how to install this darn thing it would be great thanks again bro
Ok well i can help on that. now you hook up your cap but with no fuse in place at the 1 foot mark off your battery now take you resistor and place it in between the contacts until the cap make a sound or you think its fully charge. mine takes a min of 5 mins (5 farad power acoustik with digi read out) now after that take the resitor out and put your fuse in (may spark a little) the resitor is there to slowly charge the cap if just hooked up it will make a giant spark inspite of giant flow into the cap and blow your fuse. hopes this helps. o and you can also use a automotive light when it starts to dim allmost all the way out it will be charged.
Was that 40 amp fuse an inline fuse? Cuz there's no way your Kenwood only needs a 40 amp fuse if it truly is 1000 watts. If it was the fuse on the amp, make sure you have the right size. Like I said 40 amps is too small for 1000 watts, rms or max, still too small.
I just got a hyundai sonata, 99, i installed a system, including a box and new face. Now the dashboard lights will not work. I checked all the fuses, including the one's under the hood, and the're all good. Everthing works, heat, ac, and even the lights on the ac button when you push it in. Anyone know what i could have done wrong?
If your cap has a digital voltage readout that screw is used to calibrate the thing. If you want fairly accurate voltage readings don't mess with it.
As far as that LED readout goes, it draws very little current. In fact the cap may "leak" more energy than that display requires. As long as you're not leaving your car parked for more than a week or so I wouldn't worry about it. In fact many caps have readouts which power on by a remote input from the h/u or power off after the voltage has stabilized for a while.
Me, I yanked my readout out of my cap and placed it in the dash where it could be of some use. I have it wired through both a relay and a pushbutton switch so it only comes on when the switch is engaged and the h/u is powered up as well.