I went in today and i was asking the guy what he would suggest for an amp for my Ti, i said, i want somen perfect, i dont care if you sell it but you should be pretty knowladgable of the stuff you dont sell as well and he would not get off of the 500/1...what you guys thing, i looked at him in disbeliefe, and he told my 15 in a ss will sound terrible and hit like 120 or lower, he said to take the sub back and get somen stronger
just go back when it is done, show hiim how loud, and then ask if he wants to rowshambo, ALWAYS go first.
or this, if there are 2 audio stores there, when your setup is complete go get it metered at the place you havent talked to about it, and see what you hit, which SHOULD be mid to high 140s, and then go to thew other one and bet the dude, a bj or some money that you can hit whatever you hit at the other place. and then you take is money and his pride
ypu thats the ticket plus youll be able to max your spl even more with that typical amounts are about 3 db more but can be as extreme as 11 db at our local shop i used to work at but i wouldnt hold your breath for more than 3 ...lowest i was told was a 1 db gain...epic 160 is out now as well...the epics have voltage readout and built in spl meters by the way....online price averages 200 bucks ....list is 300 i think
its basically a fancy electronic device that has a tune nob for finding your best hit frequecy of your sub: but as you do it you can see the spl as you do it. It also has a boost nob for up to 18 db boost i believe but like i said real world results are 3 db average gain....it can also be turned on and off...its really built for spl competitors
well you could do a swappable port box along the lines of my box to go all out just spl one note wonder style then you could also swap back to an everyday port or you could make your box sealed ported adjustable like mine by simply making a sealed plate custom fit flush mounted for ultimate tweekablity....one not wonder would require finding your cars resonant frequency... typically between 55 to 70 hz in car testing like this would be ideal too ....cant get any better than that....just make your plates and ports and keep your drill handy and whalla onward and upward to max spl as you find that magic port tune
let me get together with my buddy and if he says ok well do it for you at a cost as you said if your serious plus shipping but honestly its easy to do simply make a brace inside your box and cut a square window out and make sure you can screw into that brace and cut out your port size within that plate then make yourself a plate that has no holes but fits flush for a sealed box ....carpet your plates to match your box and you got a test box like mine
i got a better idea for you. what we can do is draw you up step by step blue prints and mail them to you and you can build it from your place. All we would need to know is the box size you want cubic feet internal. The demensions of useable trunk space and height etc. The desired everyday tune you want or you can experiment with the ports in the car for that too just like the spl part for one note wonder. The amount of rms amplifier power to account for no port noise. The demnsions of your subwoofer mounting hole required. Personally I hope you give this a go even if its your first box your going to build. The price of 20 bucks would be all we would want for our time. We would mark down all the supplies you would need to build it as well.
ok sean ill do that with ya lol, but ill get all the specs and stuff for ya...will you right down a huge list on here of everything your going to need to know and then ill send you a mail order and you can just send me the blueprints lol, and no this wont be my first time, but my first time was a dissaster lol, also, why do we use 3/4 mdf...why mdf...just wondering, also if we do this idea when i build it, can i carpet it or not
ok i need the following the box size as far as cubic feet internal you want the sub box to be. the power handling the sub can handle and the power you will be giving it rms. I want both in case you have a certain power and might go bigger. I want to account for port volocity. I need the dmensions your sub hole cutout needs to be. Also im assuming you want ported and sealed option or you wouldnt want my box id think. I need the subwoofers mounting depth. I also need the usable demensions of where the sub box and sub are going to be. We need to make sure this box will fit in your car. length width height also make sure you account for a possible uneven floor in your car and back deck parts that are uneven or curves on the side walls of your car if the box is sliding toward your back seat. As far as the mdf question basically you want it because its a strudier material and you dont want the box to flex and it can at high spl levels if the box is made cheaply. Flexing causes a loss in spl. Also yes you can carpet your box i did mine and everything is flush you cant really tell the box is modded unless you look close. my aol instant messenger name is sean50077 we can talk there as well.
BTW, sub, is this the same guy that continues to tell you that the Ti isn't that good? I remember hearing similar comments on other threads, not sure if they're all from you though. That sub with a good ported box and around 1000 watts RMS will get moving with no problem, it has a strong motor and is well designed, and optimized for ported enclosures.
well i cant atlk that much on here cause my comp is being ghetto and not loading windows, somen is wrong with symantec ghost and i have to use my moms comp rarely, but ill get all that stuff soon, but why oculdnt someone use like oak or somen lol
Sub, the reason that we use MDF is because it has better damping than plywood. You just don't see it at home because it isn't as pretty. Plywood has a better strength/mass ratio, but is also more resonant, and while box designs can cut down or eliminate resonance anyway, it is hard to do in a car where you have limited space. Best plywood to use would be marine grade birch plywood for a car.