Hey guys, 's'up? I need a lil' help. I am helping a friend reconstruct his entire system. He only has room for 1 12"(orion dvc). that is powered by Hifonics (either1000w or 1200w) mono block. The sub,he says, isn't a real concern right now-unless down grading the amp is a possibility. maybe a 750 monoblock. He's complaining that he has no midbass. He has a system similar to my own. He's got those damn coaxial 5x7.5's in the doors(trash). I was thinking maybe 6.5's and some soft dome tweets in the front. This is a 2002 f-150 here. I could put the tweets in an a pillar up on the door facing. I am trying to convince him to go w/ the PPI 4ch, but the poor sumbich is broke! He wants a crossover(I recommended AudioControl) and a 2 or 2.5 farad cap also. The HU is some late model Pioneer DEHP960P. The problem is he has a cheap a$$ Fosgate 2 ch powering the door speakers, and doesn't know whether to get another 2 ch to power the tweets and 6.5's. I told him that would be stupid, seeing as how you can adjust your gains,x-overs,etc. on both F & R CH in a 4 CH. I am kind'a at odds with this dude tho'.....Any thoughts on a good inexpensive 4ch anp & matching tweets and 6.5 comps? He said we could still use that puny Fosgate 150. Any help or info is greatly appreciated. I just don't have the resources on this damn computer to get all the knowledge a lot of you guys(Isaac, Joe S, Jonathan, James L.) have. Oh, Sony, Audiobahn, and Power Acoustic are NOT an option!!!
Kojak28, drop the coaxial 5x7.5's in the doors and put in 6.5" components. Will make a huge difference in sound clarity. You mentioned missing mid bass? Is that on the sub or the rear speakers? It's kind of ironic that you don't like Sony/Audiobahn/PA yet considering Hifonics? Audiobahn and Hifonics are similar IMO. A great amp to get is Orion HCCA 250G4. If that's not available, then PPI's 600.2 art series/PC and PCX series, and Xtant. Any of the amp series I listed above will have enough power for both tweeter and 6.5" speakers. No need for 4 channel unless you have rear speakers. If you want the cleanest sounding bass, then get class AB, not D.
That RF amp is a fairly nnew one(he bought it at WALMART in 2001). Don't they make some sort of adapter for 5x7.5 door speakers-to go to 6.5's? Isaac-I said he HAS an HF amp-NOT considering one. Anyway I n eed some more opinions- He called me today from some audio store across town and told me about anAutotek 7007 EQ/XOVER/LINEDRIVER for $139. He then explained that it increases the signal to 9v! I'm dumb whenn it comes to EQ's. SOOOOO......If We were to install this little animule, and put in at least some decent 6.5's in the frt doors, maybe some good Pioneer or Orion 6x8's in the rear doors.....throw out that RF150, and get a PPI 600.2- He might actually be pacified for a while, ya' think?
Not sure if they have an adapter but you can always make it fit. My car didn't have a hole for 6.5" speaker, so I made my own. Does he really need the xover/line driver? I'd concentrate on getting a good quality 6.5" components for the front along with PPI 600.2 amp. I don't know where you're going to get that amp but it is one of the best. I guarantee you, that amp will impress you or your friend. The rear speakers are optional. Test out the sound with front and the PPI amp. If is still not enough, then use the HF amp to power the rear speakers. No need to waste an amp. The reason why you would want the best amp for the front is, most if not all of the imaging is done there.