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New member Username: CortezPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | i have a 2004 Buick Rainier (similar to a GMC Envoy) with a Bose 6-Disc In-Dash head unit that i took to Circuit City to have hooked up to an Infinity Basslink. my goal was to use the existing head unit and add the Basslink for the subwoofer. well...(rather than follow my instruction and test the hookup before installing) CC installed RCA line converters from the back of the unit for input to the Basslink, but it's not working. they're explanation was that the output signal isn't strong enough so i need a line-level signal booster (my description not CC's) to boost the signal. i interpreted this to mean that the Basslink is not getting the amplified signal as they would if they would have tapped into the speakers (as i requested). admittedly, my understanding of car audio is not current with today's systems. i've read where some of the functions, processes, etc., in today's cars could be integrated with the radio. here's my question: can i add the Basslink to the Bose System in my car? if so, what hardware is required to ensure that i get adequate signal to the Basslink? thanks in advance to those that respond. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6334 Registered: Dec-03 | they're morons. the BOSE system is self amplified, and requires an adapter module. you need a PAC OEM-1, the AMP-RCA harness to plug into it, and the appropriate GM harness as well, probably called the GM-ADD T harness or similar. all made by PAC. total cost will be about $50 US. I just did this exact upgrade with a Jeep and the Infinity Gold system. the OEM-1 works for any premium system for adding aftermarket amps. www.autotoys.com has all the parts you need. just remember you need the PAC OEM-1, and TWO harnesses for it. the AMP-RCA gives you the RCA outputs, and the other one will be the one labeled for adding an amp to a GM/BOSE system. it connects just behind the head unit, and you set gain lvels on the OEM1 yourself. works like a charm with a basslink. |
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New member Username: CortezPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-04 | yep, CC install guys were weak, but i have to take a little hit on this one, too. i trusted their (perceived) expertise and advice. i had the Basslink in my GMC Envoy - which had the non-Bose system - and it was just great. i never had to turn the bass boost or the gain beyond half-way to get good sound/bass. assuming there are differences in the configuration of the Bose audio systems, how can one tell if the amp is on the head unit or the part of the speaker? thanks again for taking time to respond to my post. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6373 Registered: Dec-03 | The amplifier will either be a stand alone unit under a seat or in the trunk, or each speaker will be self amplified, but it doesn't really matter. that PAC OEM-1 will tap into the factory wiring just behind the factory radio, using a T-harness. Then it splits off to the OEM-1 box itself (small thing, about the size of a pack of cigs or so) and that gives you 4 RCA outputs. then just run your RCA cable and remote line to the basslink. the OEM-1 supplies the REM trigger as well. its easy as pie to put in. I put that basslink in the JGC, and had to set the cut/boost on it to about -1dB, and gain is barely above minimum and I still have some trouble controlling the amount of bass that thing delivers.. it's a pretty tight little sub for the price. Great solution for these OEM premium systems IMO. |
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New member Username: CortezPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-04 | interesting stuff... i went back to CC today to discuss remedies and the district manager and store manager said they will rewire the system so it works for they'll give me a full refund. your Basslink settings are very close to what i was using in my Envoy. in fact, i had to use the lowest bass setting on the head unit to keep it from sounding to "boomy". i agree that this thing is a perfect mate for an OEM system. on the hardware setup... if i understand the configuration you're using and i compare it to what CC did, then CC must have tapped into the speaker wires behind the head unit, and by doing so, somehow compromised the quality (voltage or something) of the signal going to the Basslink. if my interpretation above is accurate, then the PAC OEM-1 T-harness preserves the quality of the signal going to the Basslink either through the way it's built or some interal circuitry? am on way off base here? my original understanding is that one had to get the amplified speaker signal as a source for the Basslink. forgive my questions, i'm a systems design/developer and it's my nature to want to know how anything works. :-) thanks again for your help/comments. i'll update my post once CC corrects everything. i'm going to ask them to document the hardware and setup so i can help anyone else looking to add a Basslink in a car similar to mine. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6421 Registered: Dec-03 | CC probably used a normal LOC, which is made to take high power speaker level signals and reduce them to a line voltage. your system is line level already behind the head unit, so the normal LOC reduced way too far, weakening the signal badly. the OEM-1 is a line level adapter, and has separate gain/level adjustments for each of its 4 channels right on the module, so you can tune it to match the OEM system's line voltage and send a strong line level signal to the Basslink. very handy product. PAC makes wonderful stuff they have good phone support too |
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New member Username: CortezPost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-04 | ahhhhhhhh ha...that makes sense. so the PAC 1 harness is a "neat and clean" way to hookup what would otherwise appear to be a direct tap to the speaker line. i'm going to buy the hardare from autotoys and take it to CC just in case they don't have it. thanks! |
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New member Username: CortezPost Number: 5 Registered: Dec-04 | well, went back to CC and found out they had a PAC 1 harness connected to a RCA line converter which basically took a pre-amp signal and converted it to a "lower" signal, which caused the problem with my Infinity Basslink. They removed the RCA line converter and the Basslink came alive! Mr Wolf, since they're tapping into the speaker line directly from the head-unit, is this the same as a speaker level input going through the RCA hookup? if so, can i remove the auto-on power switch connected to my ignition? my understanding is that a speaker level input will automatically turn on the Basslink. either way, i'm much happier now! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6554 Registered: Dec-03 | the OEM-1 should give you a remote trigger line, along with up to 4 RCA outputs. from your factory head unit, the OM-1 is converting from a non amplified signal, if you have a premium audio system from the factory. It's line level, so you need to use the REM line in any event. the auto-sensing on switch only works if ya use the speaker level inputs on the basslink itself, which aren't nearly as nice as using the RCA inputs. I'd just leave it wired as it is. |