OK THIS IS WHAT IT IS-I ALREADY HAVE 4 10 INCH KICKER L7S AND 2 RF 1500.1-THE SUBS ARE WIRED AT 1 OHM SO I GET MAX WATTS FOR THEM AND THEY POUND--OK NOW--I WANT MORE AND I DONT KNOW WHAT TO GET-I NEED SUGGESTIONS-BUDGET DOESNT MATTER AS LONG AS U DONT SAY BUY A 10000 DOLLAR SUB-I NEED HONEST OPINIONS-AND NO CLOWNS ANSWERING PLZ. I HAVE A 1995 HONDA WAGON THIS IS IN AND I AM GETTING RID OF BACK SEAT I WANT THIS CAR JUST FOR MUSIC-SO HELP ME OUT
NO UPGRADE I HAVE 2 YELLOW TOP BATTERYS AND IM FINE NO DIMMING OR NUTHIN SO FAR-BUT I AM GONNA DO A ALTERNATOR UPGRADE--I WANT TO PROBABLY DO PORTED SO BETTER SOUND-AND MORE BASS-SO FI BTL SUBS WOULD GIVE ME MORE 18S? I NEVER USED EM AND EVERYONE WHERE I LIVE USE KICKER OR JL AUDIO -I WANT TO BEAT THE BASS OFF OF THEM
IN MY WAGON SO FAR-I HAVE THIS--4 10 INCH EVS --4 6 INCH BEYMAS IN THE DOORS--4 KICKER 10 INCH L7S -ON THE HIGHS AND MIDS I HAVE A 1000.4 RF POWER AND ON THE BASS I HAVE 2 RF T1500.1 AMPS AND I WANT MORE BASS- I JUST BOUGH LAST NIGHT 4 MORE 10 INCH EVS AND IMMA PUT ALL 8 OF EM IN--SO I NEED MORE BASS NOW--AND READ MY CLIPPING FUSES THREAD IN ACCESORIES KEVIN HOLDEN
Well, Fi is better than Kicker and JL is SQ subs so the Fi's would do great for you, especially 18s in the proper enclosure. That's a ton of power to be running without much electrical upgrades. A new alt would be the way to go.
sry for the caps but i cant see this little font too good and caps look better--i have the 4 kickers in 2 subzone ported boxes-yeah could that be why i am blowing fuses if i put the bass up? because of lack of power? and 2 fi btl 18s would be much louder than 4 kicker l7s? imma try that and see what happens--where can i look into getting them?and is there a certain model? or is it just 18 inch fi btls?
well it's a good thing your blowing fuses lol. honestly if you were not blowing fuses and actually pulling all the current those amps need to run full potential...well lets just say your amps would be blown.
i would spend the money on electrical upgrades before anything else.
curious, what size power wire do you run? and what size fusing are you blowing?
it sounds like he needs 2 or 3 runs of 1/0 ga on both the pos and neg, needs to dump the pre fab boxes, and the L7's, probly two 220 amp alts, big 3 if not done yet. am i missing any thing?
so ur telling me to get 2 altenators??why cant i jus get 1 amped up one i have 2 batteries and i have no dimming so far lol--but i just put it in so....but ok back to the topic if i have the 2 rf 1500.1s and i have 2 batteries and get a amped up alternator..then ill be fine..but i jus wanted to know what subs should i get??? that willl give me more banggggggg and boommmmm..ok put it like this--my friend has 2 13w7 jls on a 1000.1 jl amp and his bangs--i wanna smoother him--im sort of close but i want more...what would work for this?? where do i look for these fi btl subs and are they gonna bang harder and louder than 2 13w7?? and are they worth the money or i can put more money and get something better??
and if u want you can spend the extra money and pinp out the subs if you email FI they will help you get what u want, and look in to a custom box, talk to bassman3.
i jus paid someone to install this and when he put it on loud the fuses blew and he said they are blowing cause i am drawing alot of power..im a newb so dont mind if i ask the same question over..but when i play it loud it plays fine if car is moving but i ave everything low cause im scared to blow fuses--i live in ny and i wish i knew someone to wire this the right way--instead of rigging it and i blow a nice setup
there spl subs so they will be loud, you are poping fuses to keep the wire from melting caseing then settings on fire and what not, and no more prefab boxes or kicker subs. you will also get better power if your voltage stays around 14.4 the lower it goes the harder your amps haft to work to put out the same power and draw more power at lower voltage for the same out put. ghostwolf you wanna tag in hear?
if it's true 1/0 gauge wire you should be able to 300a fuse. i can guarantee if your 100a fuse wasnt popping your lights would be dimming. running near 4000w for your woofers and a nice chunk of amp for your mids/highs.
whats the brand and model of the power wire you have?
you know, after over 25 years on-line, when I see people type in all caps like this, I still get the mental image of a kid who jumps up and down on the bed at the age of 25, about to lose his virginity, then loses his glasses, jumps on those, and just as the girl unstraps her bra, he jizzes in his own shorts, ending a short and unmemorable night for the girl.
u know after 25 years of me seeing grown men on the pc all day answering questions makes me see a fat man gettin no pooci at all..and jizzing to a car audio answer...
lol bro this isnt a good way to start on a forum. that 25 yr old happens to know prolly more about this subject then anyone on this site so if u dont want the truth then GTFO
TRUTH??? MAN IM NOT SUCKING HIS DK..i dont give a fk if he comments or not....if its not a productive comment then why comment?? he should know better than to comment stupid chit..and hes not the only geek on here..plenty more people on here also..so u stfu and sk my dk and gtfo...im jus saying u comment a retard remark i comment back..soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo...fk u
nope now go down the screet and get me some scrimp and fries..u hill billly hahahhahahha now i have a sense of humor lol dont forget the scraw for my soda
Want a serious answer for your wagon? 4 Fi BTL15s in a large ported box. Two more of your 1500W amps. one per sub. then add another alternator or two to feed the amps.
you'll use most of your interior for the box, but you won;t be able to sit in the car at half volume without your ears bleeding.
Oh that's right, you need someone else to buy your happy meals for you. You're not old enough to be served by yourself yet. How precious! Careful, the toy is a choking hazard.
glad ya liked that one.. it made me laugh typing it, too. :D
Seriously though, take a look at www.ficaraudio.com click SPEAKERS on the left, then the first section of the following page. "BTL"
Look at those, or the BL if you want a more "daily use" friendly sub that's still made for SPL
I'm personally using a single Fi Q 18" in my own car, and thoroughly love it. These subs are designed by the same talented gentleman who designed the first generation Resonant Engineering (RE) subs that everybody loved so much.
now glass wolf u serious bout that setup??? ill do it if it will work man i know u people get alot of dreamers but im dead serious about my car audio..i like the music in autos and always had systems but now imma go nuts
In all honesty I'm not overly familiar with the Honda wagon cabin volume, so make sure you have the space for the 4 15". Slot ported, you're talking about 4 cubic feet per sub. That's 16 cu ft of air space, plus driver displacement, plus port displacement, so closer to 18cu ft, all said and done. That's a big box. You could also do a "wall" for the fifteens, and just seal the entire back end of the car, putting a panel just behind the rear hatch to mount the amps on a wall as well, and put a few batteries back there too.. for the amps.
This will pretty much become an SPL vehicle though.
If you just want a daily driver, consider two of the Fi SSD 15" on the amps you already have. Cheaper, easier, but not really as loud of course.
can u do a box for me?? if i want to get the 2 18 btls?? or should i get the 4 15s?? what u think?? i mean can u design one for me?? and i went today for a amped up alternator and this guy tried to charge me 900 for a 240 amp alternator --lol i wanted to spit on him cause i thought he was nuts
well, compare teh combined cone surface ares (pi*r*r) and the combined Xmax (excursion) and you can see which setup will have more output with equally applied power. the 18" should win out if memory serves.
The box is pretty straight forward really, it's just a straight slot ported box. Whomever builds it could design it but I can give you some suggestions for things to do when it's built. Shipping would be prohibitively expensive if I built it, considering the distance and the size and weight for this type of enclosure.
i can give u measurements for the wagon if that helps imma get rid of the back seat and make it all stereo--but will the bass be different if i have 2 almost near the window if it calls for it?? and the windows down?
pardon teh pun, but think outside the box a bit. If you can't fit the subs side by side, you can put them in a siamese pattern (zig zag so to speak, like cylinders in a siamesed block) or angle the top of the box like a big "V" so the subs are @ a 45 degree angle to teh floor, allowing them to take less room across the vehicle. The box doesn't ahve to be a rectangle, it just makes the slots and volume calculations a bit trickier.
The two 18" may be a better bet if you want to go that route. If you want them to sound good with music, look at teh SSD subs. They are like teh Alpine type R. Very good all aroound daily use subs that hit ahrd and take a fair amount of abuse.
I like larger subs. personal preference. I've used just about everything, size wise. two 18" ported would still take about 12-20 cubic feet total, which is HUGE.. even sealed, you're talking 7-10cu ft for both.
you'd like them though. slot ported, tuned to 28Hz, those things would rumble like an earthquake. There's just no comparison to the deep resonance of eighteens with good motor control and ample power.
this is a little off topic but whats the big 3? i have had car audio in my car for years and never had a power problem-so why do people recommend the big 3- what is it?
Sry bud, guess I've been spoiled all these years being around educated people. I guess tattoo artists don't need much of that so your on the safe side.
"are fi btls the same woofer"
Yes and an E class Mercedes is the same as a Mercedes McLaren. Both are under the same brand but different build and performance. If "BUDGET DOESNT MATTER" as you said, then go ahead and buy the BTLs. Regardless your electrical system is going to crap out on you if you don't upgrade your alt and do the big 3. 1-pull down your pants, 2- bend over, 3 - "sk my DK"
wow ben loves me--i have a new cheerleader-haters-- hahahhahaha its ok ben u wish u were me..and i own 3 tattoo parlors and im young what u got? u live in ur moms basement..i bet ur ben the entertainer..its ok ben to hate..what u have? pioneer subs and a legacy amp? hahahhaha u loser i bet u are puttin a system in ur moms car and she like 80 driving around with subs and a amp-but ill still bang her old azz and make her swallow-if she dont ill hold her nose till she does...pownnnneddddddd
3 tattoo parlors... I didn't know you could count your bedroom, bathroom, and closet.
Sorry I don't put my user name as my set up but maybe I should change it to 115inchFIQ.
You hit it right on the nail! Mom's "80" and I'm 21, it was a rough birth for her at 60 years old. I prefer to use grandmas car though- shes 130 year old so shes pretty def already.
the type R and SSD are not remotely the same sub, no. If you blew a sub, it's due to having the gain on the amp set too high, or having a lack of sufficient current to drive the amplifier. both of these problems result in the amp clipping, sending DC voltage to the coils, building heat, and damaging the coils. This is user error and not the fault of the speaker.
the "big 3" is when you run larger power wire for 3 things. alternator to battery positive terminal negative battery terminal to ground engine block to chassis ground
This allows the alternator and battery to flow more current, helping the system to get the current it needs to run without sagging voltage rails. The next step is usually isolated audio batteries and a high output alternator.
ty i have 2 yellow top batteries so now imma do the 3 wires next-ty i never knew that was a issue and i called stinger and they said if they sell me a high output alternator for a honda it wont work good and the coils will burn out fast and its a waste of money-they said the only thing i can do is do a upgrade on my stock one that sucks- but i think the stock one is like 70 to 80 amps and they could amp it up to like 120 or 130 bettter than nuthing