Voltmeter wiring.. help

 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 620
Registered: Feb-07
http://files-upload.com/files/499389/x.pdf

I bought this thing for like 5 bucks and idk how the hell to wire it. Just open the pdf and the password is power. if anyone can elaborate then okay
 

Silver Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 473
Registered: Apr-07
I don't want to open the pdf. Can you make a jpg of your question?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6475
Registered: Nov-04
Your link sucks. Is it a spam? It's asking me to wait 30 seconds before it opens!
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 621
Registered: Feb-07
Upload
Upload
Upload

there ya go
 

Silver Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 480
Registered: Apr-07
Me too, I'm worried about jokes/virus threats and stuff.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 622
Registered: Feb-07
its a shitty file sharing website
 

Silver Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 482
Registered: Apr-07
I'm sorry, I don't understand the question?
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 623
Registered: Feb-07
ah idk i just don't know how to wire the thing. i understand + - to battery but why does it say parallel and sht
 

Gold Member
Username: Th3pwn3r

Post Number:...

Post Number: 4871
Registered: Jul-06
Lol.That does look pretty confusing.That's why I recommend the voltmeter that stinger makes,it has a ground,power and remote.Simple.
 

Gold Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 3434
Registered: Jan-06
Dude, you can't be that nill, lol. Wires 1 and 2 are the units supply voltage, wires 3 and 4 are for the measured voltage!

Wire-1 (Cars + voltage 6-24V)
Wire-2 (Cars - ground)
Wire-3 (Voltage you want displayed - negative)
Wire-4 (Voltage you want displayed + positive)

The voltage you want displayed can be either a bank of batteries in which wire 3 and 4 need to be wired parallel to the batterie(s) source or if you want it can measure the cars main batter in which just run it back to the starter battery, simple...Polo.

PS- You don't want it I can always use it... :-O
 

Gold Member
Username: Van_man

Boston South, MA

Post Number: 2852
Registered: Mar-06
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 628
Registered: Feb-07
well can i wire 1 and 4 to the battery pos, and 2 and 3 to the battery neg?
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 629
Registered: Feb-07
ah sh!t it would always be on huh
 

Gold Member
Username: Van_man

Boston South, MA

Post Number: 2854
Registered: Mar-06
Use a relay thats wired to a keyed source, so when the car is turned on, the relay gets power, thus powering the unit. Make sure to get a large amperage relay...
Uhmmm, You would need a relay that would handle the amps load... Not good. You would almost need to step up to a solinoid to get the job done.
I would just use a switch, or leave it on. Im sure it wont drain that much power.

Another option may be to wire it indepentantly of the amp. just wire wire 1 and 4 to the battery pos, and 2 and 3 to the battery neg and use a small switch on it like the diagram. That will moniter the battery, but not the amps voltage.
Or wire 1 & 4 to the amps +, and 2 & 3 to the amps neg. Then it will only come on when the amps rem is active.
 

Gold Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 3438
Registered: Jan-06
I would put the source voltage pickup leads, 3 and 4 right where the amplifier connects, this will give a more realistic voltage reading. I also would use the ignition power source to power the unit so it automatically shuts off. Polo..
 

Gold Member
Username: Van_man

Boston South, MA

Post Number: 2855
Registered: Mar-06
Yes Polo. Thats what I was thinking, but couldnt put it to thought. Over thinking the problem.

Try this..

Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 630
Registered: Feb-07
the whole point of this is to moniter my girlfriends voltage so she doesn't clip her subs. her car didn't come with a voltmeter on the dash
 

Gold Member
Username: Johnfiac

A-ToWn, 9515 thumpin... What u bumpin?

Post Number: 3536
Registered: Mar-06
Why use a relay its not needed in my thought, use the remote wire as the + (wire 1) thats supposed to goto the battery :-) problem solved lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 631
Registered: Feb-07
we already said that, hom0. then it would always be on
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 6478
Registered: Nov-04
Jesse, let's not get personal with insults. I'm sure Killa was just trying to help.
Anyhow, did you even check the manual for that display project/kit? In most cases, they use very little current, in the 20ma range. For that amount, you can leave it on 24/7. It'll never draw enough current to affect anything. If you never turned on your car, it'll take years before the battery gets fully drained.
So it's not necessary to install a switch/relay.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jesse59672

OKLAHOMA

Post Number: 635
Registered: Feb-07
yeah but when im bangin her in the car i dont want to see what the batterys voltage is at,..
 

Gold Member
Username: Johnfiac

A-ToWn, 9515 thumpin... What u bumpin?

Post Number: 3547
Registered: Mar-06
Jesse first off your the hom0 if u dont realize what i just said... it would turn off with the car numb nutts... remote wire..... turns on with ignition... so if the car is off... its off! :-)
Remote wire just has a fuse that would help protect it and the ignition would act as the cutoff switch ilistrated in the picture...
 

Gold Member
Username: Johnfiac

A-ToWn, 9515 thumpin... What u bumpin?

Post Number: 3548
Registered: Mar-06
and u shouldnt do that in the car..... get a room
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