Hey, I didn't even see your thread till now. The items you listed under speakers thread, are they the ones you currently have? Is the $1000 your budget to buy new products to replace your current ones? If you have room, then go ported. It'll sound louder. For 6x8 speakers, if they're not high quality then drop them. Get a great pair of components like Focal/Boston/MB Quarts/Diamond/CDT. Look for 100w - 200w rms. Anything less isn't worth buying. If the 6.5" speakers don't fit, you can always cut bigger hole. You do know that using cheap amp to power mids and highs will kill sound quality right? Dump the Lightning Audio amp. If you can look for PPI's Art series 600.2 amp. Very nice. 300.2 is a great backup. If they're all sold out, then don't forget PPI PC2300.2 amp. It is one of the best in SQ and spec. I have one. I hope this helps.
I got some adapters on the way (for 6.5). 1K is all I can swing right now. Will the ported box STILL have good SQ? LA is gone, out the window....I got a friend that has MA amp- He's got the thing wired @.5ohm! I checked the specs and it IS .5ohm stereo stable. He's got MB quart-disease- Everything in that POS is MA & MB QUART. 2 Visonik 12's though. Yeah, Guess I left the part out about my CURRENT SYSTEM CONSISTS OF: lol. Dude, I just respect your opinion- u seem to be fairly knowledgeable. How 'bout this one: Mono block amp(Autotek SX1200X) P12D2 ORION DVC (2ohm vc) This amp has (2) spkr jacks- 1 split in (2)- If 1 VC is on 1 speaker jack- other VC is wired to other speaker jack (both sides 2 ohm). Would that not give the amp a 2 ohm load? Also, which would be better in front and/or rear: 6.5,6.5 components with tweets & xovers, & finally 5.25 with or w/out comp sets?
Brian for PPI 2300.2 amp spec, go to eBay and look for one that's being sold by a company. They have a link to the manual. In case you can't find it, here's a summarized version: THD .02% Input Sensitivity: 120mv - 12v Damping Factor: >500 Slew Rate: >50v/uS! SN Ratio: >100db Power: 75w rms x 2 @4ohms, 150w rms @ 2ohms, 300w x1 bridged
Koja28, it is not recommended that you wire each VC separately to it's own amp channel. Unless Autotek is a 2 channel amp, wiring each VC to the samp speaker jack will give you 1ohm load to the amp. Remember each VC is 2ohms, so you can either have 4ohms or 1ohm. If you're looking for a great amp for your component speakers, take a look at PPI PC2600 amp. It is 150w rms @4ohms, 300w @2ohms and 600w bridged. Almost same spec as PPI 600.2 art series amp. If possible, go with 6.5" component sets. 5.25 doesn't produce mid bass as well as 6.5".
thanks Isaac I am thinking of a PPI PC2300.2 to power my kappa components. Good choice? Let me know what you think. Also I have a Taurus with the factory head unit and was hoping that the amp and components will spice up the sound, as I do not want to get a new deck. Could this work?
Isaac, my sub amp IS MONO BLOCK- It just has 2 speaker outputs. it is one split into 2 separate outputs. Pretty cool, huh? It does NOT have l & r channels. lol.
Brian 2300.2 is a very nice amp. I personally tested it. As long as you can supply clean sound into it, you will get amazing result. Remember, if by chance you don't get great sound, it's your headunit, not the amp.
It's a good deal to me cause anytime you can get an amp like that, especially new, buy it. You can look at other brands, but you won't find an amp with that spec and quality for $200.