Amp fried with new IDMAX 12" D2V3 subwoofer

 

New member
Username: James330i

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-06
hi guys,

so i recently upgrade to a 12" IDMAX D2V3. It's a DVC 2ohm sub. I've been running the older Version 2 (same setup) for about 4 years now with a PPI PCX2200 amp bridged to give 800 x 1 at 4 ohms.

So, i take the old sub out, put the new one in...making sure to wire it the same way (in series) to give a 4 ohm load. It's been rocking since Monday...then yesterday, the amp starts to blow fuses like crazy.

It blew the 60 amp AGU fuse again and again upon startup..I ran out of fuses so I put an 80 amp fuse in, but not before disconnecting the sub and RCA input from the receiver to rule those factors out.

It blew again ,but on the 2nd 80 amp fuse i tried, it did not blow, but...

the amp starts smoking. It is fried.

Obviously i will be getting a new amp, but I would like to know if the sub could have anything to do with it. It is marked a 2-ohm sub and I double checked my wiring.
The amp is on the same distro. block as another PPI amp but that one is running fine. The transistors are absoultely fried on the amp....

Any ideas? I'd hate to put a new amp in and have that one go down right away if it is indeed the fault of the sub.

thnx!
 

Silver Member
Username: Showrides

Hartford, CT USA

Post Number: 200
Registered: Feb-06
First off. This was 100% your fauly. You NEVER NEVER NEVER increase the size of your fuse, because it keeps blowing on you. That is perhaps the worst thing you can do. If you upgrade your system, and your new equipment/wire can handle larger fuses, then that is okay to do. But when fuses are blowing left and right on you, that usually tells you there is a problem that needs to be fixed.

And I would check the resistance of the VC's with a dmm. Make sure they read correctly.

But 99% of the time when this is happening, there is either a problem with the amp, or a problem in your wiring. But now that the amp is friend you really don't have to worry about that.

Just get a new amp, wire it correctly, and put the right size fuses back on there. Then you should be all set to go, and hopefully you won't have any problems.

Also, let me know what kind of amp you need. I may be able to help you out.
 

New member
Username: James330i

Post Number: 5
Registered: Aug-06
thanx man

I may send the PPI off to be fixed...not sure if it's worth $150 or getting a new amp. The new sub and a new deck (on its wa) has me cramped for cash.

I just hope the problem was not the sub..though it had been working fine for about a week
 

Silver Member
Username: Showrides

Hartford, CT USA

Post Number: 212
Registered: Feb-06
Like I said. Just check the impedence of the VC's. If they read write around what they are supposed to, the sub is fine. I hope it all works out for you.

And I would get a budget 1 ohm stable amp for around $275 that would give you 1000rms at 1 ohm, before I would replace that amp for $150. Just seems to make more sense to me to go that route.
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