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New member Username: WalkngdudePost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Hi there I'm an old guy and want to put some new speakers in my 92 Cherokee. Nothing booming really needed but some good clean sound on a budget would be nice. I have a JVC sh707 hu and stock Jenson speakers. I want to keep a low profile so not to attract crimes of opportunity. Lets say to start with $325 for 2 speakers and an amp. I have been teetering on component vs. co-axle and think I'm staying with co-axle because I don't know where the tweeters should go and not that I care about my door panels but didn't hear that much difference between the Alpine SPR-17LP @ $149 and the Alpine SPR-17LS @ $249 to justify cutting holes in the panel and losing that stock "don't steal me" look. I can get these for $90 and $140 respectively online. I know I should be looking at Polk, Falsgate and Infinity but I'm looking at an amp also and if it go over $400 the wife will kick it to the curb. For the amp I have been looking at the Alpine MRV-F450 @ 50 watts RMS x 4 for $220 with dimensions @ 16.75" x 2.5" x 11.25" it just might fit under my back seat to keep the local kids honest and also protected from the abuse me and my kids will put it through. I plan on some tailgate speakers later on and I found a nice write up for a stealth cubby sub at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97186 and thought I could bridge the rear channels for a 10" woofer later. I know most people would rather comment on something more than a farm truck/soccer wagon setup but for the sake of my kid's musical ears could you please give this one a go? Thanks Randy |
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Silver Member Username: AlteraudiousaConcord Post Number: 372 Registered: Jan-06 | sounds like a plan to me. Are you not going to have any rear speakers in your jeep? I would probably do this since you do have people sitting in the rear. |
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Silver Member Username: UcfsaxmanOviedo/orlando, Fl Post Number: 667 Registered: May-05 | sounds real good for your needs and situation. alpine makes nice solid speakers and keeping the wattage somewhat low will give you a nice clean sound. i wouldn't recommend bridging the rear channels for a sub. when the time comes you should look into a Jl audio 10w1v2 they are a great low wattage sub designed to fit in small spaces and it will have great sound quality but will not be overpowering and will really add to you system. the rms of the sub is around 150 watts i believe so you would not need a large amplifier just a small one to supply sufficient power to the sub. if i were you i would just run the rear speakers off the head unit. |
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New member Username: WalkngdudePost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-06 | alteraudiousa to answer your question, I will replace the rear speakers at a later time so that I don't have to shock the wife with the total cost right away. ucfsaxman I feel a little confused about your answer. At first you said "not to bridge the rear channel for a sub" then at the end you suggest to " run the rear speakers off the head unit". If I don't bridge for the sub why wouldn't I run the rear speakers off the amp? That was my intention to bridge the rear off the amp to run the sub and run the rear set from the head unit. I know nothing about subs and bridging amps but I thought that the rear channels at 70w each would give me over 140w for a low power sub bridged. Is this the right way to look at this? I know I may be asking too much out of a small amp but I want to maximize bang for the buck and space usage. And thanks for the help on the sub speaker selection. I need extra help here. |
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Silver Member Username: Bnd_rulezPhoenix, AZ USA Post Number: 872 Registered: Mar-05 | The purpose of running the rear speakers off the deck is so they have less power, and will detract less from the front soundstage you are trying to create by putting amped speakers up front. If you're going to get coaxials, I would just suggest running them off the head unit. They will sound better than the stock speaks and it will leave you with more money for the sub and amp. |
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New member Username: WalkngdudePost Number: 3 Registered: Mar-06 | OK, so I ended up buying Polk db 6500 components for $160. I wanted Alpine R series and heard bad stuff about Alpine S series and was considering Infinity because they were said to be very good too but I could not find a pair to listen to. Finally at Fries Electronics I got to hear some Infinities and they are good. I had listened to some Alpines at Best Buys and liked them very much but the R series are a little too deep in inches for my doors. Fries also had some Polks and I thought they had more mids and lows than the Infinities and where rated highly on the web. So that's what I bought. Took the doors apart and slammed them in with the tweeters in the sail panel and thought I made a mistake. They sounded too high and harsh with no mids and lows. Note this was a quick install and I left off the door finish panel. So after some reading about the how the quality of the install is more important than expensive speakers I looked into sound deadening. Looking into Raammat I found it rated at 250 degrees but since I live in a very hot place I went with Second Skin Audio that's rated above 500 degrees. I spent two days (10 hours) cutting and sticking this stuff to my doors. I bought 40 sqft and have 8 left over. I put the stuff on the inner side of the exterior wall, the outer side of the interior wall(I used small left over parts here to fit between all the door equipment and linkage) and finally on the inner side of the interior wall. Thumping with your knuckle you could hear the door drop well below an octave thus (I believe) dropping the reactive properties of the door to help the Polks reproduce the lows and mids. I dropped the tweeters from the sail panels to within 6" of the mids and in the same plane as recommended by others. I used 3/8s mfd and silicone to float the new speakers to mount solidly to the door. I screwed the Ploks to the doors and at 11:30PM Sunday night, kids and wife asleep and my hands all cut and skinned from threading the stuff into the doors I turned on the stereo. Funny, the lift speaker had a smaller base/mid sound than the right. I took the left speaker out and checked the polarity and it looked correct. I had put a small peace of visqueen here to protect it from any rain that might get through the window seal and I took it out. I put everything back together and sat in the drivers seat and turned the key. Sounds very nice now. To regress: Did the visqueen take away from the bass and mids and do I need to protect the Polks from rain damage? Deadening seems to work. |
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Silver Member Username: SolacedagonyNew Jersey US Post Number: 858 Registered: Oct-04 | I've heard that those rubber baffles for water and moisture do reduce bass. Deadening is a must for any doors. Sounds like you took your time and did an articulate job of installing. Hope everything sounds as good as you wanted it to. |