Silver Member Username: Mash4kash
Lafayette,
LA
Post Number: 369
Registered: Feb-06
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Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 12:24 GMT My sub amp plays when it want sometimes a few seconds sometimes the whole song, sometimes no song. My battery was tested and said "bad battery" could that be my problem? I have no loose wires. The highs/mids amp doesn't do this. |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234
Post Number: 1527
Registered: May-09
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Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 14:58 GMT I'd start with the battery if you already know it's bad, and then take it from there. |
Platinum Member Username: Glasswolf
Columbia,
South Carolina
America
Post Number: 14698
Registered: Dec-03
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Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 14:58 GMT could be the battery, and/or that the gain on the amp is turned up too high, causing the amp to enter thermal protection mode due to clipping. |
Silver Member Username: Mash4kash
Lafayette,
LA
Post Number: 370
Registered: Feb-06
|
Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 17:34 GMT Glasswolf its a kicker 800.2 amp on 2 cvr 12's which are 800w max each and 400w rms. If it matches, you're saying it can still go into protection mode? the thermal protection light doesn't come on when subs aren't playing. Amp was looked at by a professional technician and he said nothing was wrong with the amp but he didn't take it out and look under the circuit board. he just hooked up multimeter, sonar, etc. had it playing for a hour or 2 at low volume he said the amp is fine from how he tested it, he did say if there are small cracks under the board it can cause that. i hope its just the battery i have a yellowtop optima on the way. my 2500hd diesel has 2 battery, the power wire is on the right side passenger battery. |
Gold Member Username: Joe1234
Post Number: 1529
Registered: May-09
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Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 19:45 GMT You should measure the voltage at the amp input terminals, if you see voltages like 10 or below when playing then your electrical is faulty and that could be anything including the battery.
I usually skip to state this as virtually no one seems to own a multimeter. |
Silver Member Username: Mash4kash
Lafayette,
LA
Post Number: 371
Registered: Feb-06
|
Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 22:38 GMT ok its still kinda confusing if the kicker amp is doing it and not the alpine ya know |
Gold Member Username: Joe1234
Post Number: 1530
Registered: May-09
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Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 02:39 GMT If you think your HU is malfunctioning, that is possible, is very easy to find out, just connect a portable media player to the amp for a while, if you have no interruptions then the HU may be the problem. |
Platinum Member Username: Glasswolf
Columbia,
South Carolina
America
Post Number: 14703
Registered: Dec-03
|
Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 17:12 GMT the power handling of the speakers means nothiing. That's simply a measure of how much heat, measured in watts, that the voice coils can handle without physical thermal damage. It has absolutely no relation or correlation to how much power the speakers need to reach Xmech or Xmax, or their physical limits of output.
The gain setting on the amp controls the input stage of the amplifier, matching that input stage to the line voltage presented to the amplifier, since different sources have different line voltages (200mV, up to 16 volts) If all head units supplied the same line voltage, you wouldn't need a gain, or input sensitivity setting.
If the gain on the amp is set too high, then the input stage of the amp will be over-driven, causing the sinewave signal presented to the amp, to be reproduced as a clipped wave, which sends DC voltage to the speakers. This is what builds heat in voice coils, and damages speakers. This also heats up the amplifier, and can cause it to enter thermal protection.
You can cause these same issues by having a weak charging system (bad battery, bad ground, too small power wire, etc)
yes, your battery probably is the problem. |
