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New member Username: XradeonPost Number: 4 Registered: Oct-11 | Which one do you think is better? My HU is a JVC AXV640. The car is a Nissan Versa 2009. Infinity are 2 ohms!! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 663 Registered: May-09 | Well they are in one way not comparable, one is a component set and the other is a coaxial speaker. The 165CA1 is the comparable product and the Focal is a better product. The 165A1 component set should be driven by an amp to get the most out of it. If you want something from Infinity check out the kappa line, its better, but all infinity speakers are somewhat lacking in midbass. If you want something from Focal look for the Polyglass series up, which sound much more natural than the Access line. |
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New member Username: XradeonPost Number: 5 Registered: Oct-11 | Thanks Joe!! Currently my car doesn't have any speaker. So I'm starting from scratch. The Polyglass series are to expensive to allow me to buy 2 sets for front and rear doors.. I'm in Mexico too so it's a little hard to get some models.. What about Focal IS165 components? I'm not planning to power the spakers with an amp in the short term. But I am going to add a Diamond D4 sub to the set. So what do you think? Should I get a Focal component set or the Infinity coaxial spakers for the 4 doors?? Also I couldn't find any Infinity components.. The only Kappa set available is the 62.9i. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 665 Registered: May-09 | The Focal IS165 are not proper component speakers as they lack an external a crossover network, are just a coaxial speaker with flexible mounting aluminum tweeter that reassembles component set, worst of all are 6 ohm impedance, lack midbass just as the infinitys. Unfit for HU drive due to the high impedance. http://www.focal.com/files/ft-is1651.pdf The 62.9i are much better than 6032cf, if you see the pictures they are a component set with a fixed tweeter as they have a small external crossover network. If you don't intend to use an amplifier, I would recommend the infinity kappas. The low 2 ohm impedance will have the HU driving them to relatively decent output. The reference counterparts are almost worth nothing as SQ components, get them only if the kappas are too expensive. If you can't afford the Polyglass then get 165a1s but these will work with an amplifier better, a simple 70W RMSx4 amplifier will suffice. Above all it would be nice if you could find some alternatives, for example the cheap Morel Maximos which will likely outperform the Access line from Focal. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 700 Registered: May-09 | Xradeon I had the chance to review the Focal IS165, tweeter and midbass are connected in parallel and the load comes down to 2.4 ohms which in theory could be handled by a head unit, sound is not great due to lack of proper crossover but it lacks coloration due to the midbass driver being polyglass. So it remains an option depending on the price you can get them for. |
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New member Username: XradeonPost Number: 6 Registered: Oct-11 | Thanks Joe! I've reading a lot these day trying to figure out what to buy.. Ok I've made my final list including prices.. Infinity Kappa 62.9i $126 75 RMS 45 - 25K 95.0 DB 2 ohm Infinity Kappa 60.9CS $185 90 RMS 45 - 25k 95.0 DB 2 ohm Focal 165 VR $274 75 RMS 80 - 28k 94.5 DB 4 ohm Focal PS 165 $215 80 RMS 60 - 20k 92.5 DB 4 ohm Hertz HSK 165 $271 125 RMS 50 - 22k 92.0 DB 4 ohm Rainbow SLX 265 $141 100 RMS 50 - 21k 90.0 DB 4 ohm JL Audio C2-650 $163 60 RMS 59 - 22k 91.0 DB 4 ohm JL W6 13.5 750 RMS 2 ohm $519 JL W6 12.0 600 RMS 2 ohm $408 JVC AVX740 $404 Well I think I'm going to choose the coaxial Infinity ones 'cause they are 2 ohm, and have high sensivity. I was thinking buying better ones but then I'll need to buy a 4 channel amp and as you can see I still need to buy the HU and have changed my mind going for a JL W6 instead of the Diamond.. So my plan is to power the speakers with the HU, then in a couple of months get a good 4 channel amp for the Infinitys and maybe a couple of months later sell the Infinitys and get some better speakers... I wouldn't mind spending a little more for getting antoher speakers but I want something decently loud and not underpowered for the start.. I thought in coaxials 'cause my car doesn't have OEM space for placing the tweeters. So I thought I could try the coaxials and see how they perform.. But if theres a significant gain in terms of sound quality I don't mind trying to place the tweeters.. By the way I'm planning to Dynamat only the doors when mounting the set.. Now the Focal IS165 are $141 and 2.4 ohm. So maybe I could go this way.. What would you do? I've read not to place the same 2 speaker sets in the 4 doors.. Some recomend only midbass on the rear.. But here I don't seem to find a real midbass speaker.. I'm a little confused but lol I think I can't start with a perfect setup for my budget.. I need experience, time and some good advises.. Thanks Joe! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 702 Registered: May-09 | Ok Xradeon If I would have those components you mention to build my own system I would do as follows: 1) I would dismiss the JVC for anything from Pioneer/Alpine since those are really SQ. The JVC is a features deck, cute too but not SQ. 2) Pick the 13w6 and put it on a 750W RMS@2 ohm monoblock. I would put the sub on a custom built enclosure, sealed for SQ, ported for high output. 3) Pick the Focal PS 165 for the front stage / no rear fill. (those comps just won an award in Europe). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Later I would add a 4 channel amp and bridge it to 2 channel to source the comps. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - If I found midbass drivers were necessary the midbass drivers would go to the rear channels and the comps to the front channels of the amp, adding an active crossover is necessary for midbass drivers proper operation. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - That's only me of course! |