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Which battery?

 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 55
Registered: Jun-11
so i'm thinking i'm going to upgrade to a better battery...what kind would be good, i've been looking at stinger batteries, but don't know which kind, black yellow or red, and they have them seperated by watts and amps, other things like that....i need some help...I have a 96 lexus es 300, have a rockford 1001bd and a p400-4 for amps. anything else you need to know to point me in the right direction? lemme know
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 594
Registered: May-09
For your system power level, something like this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16770_Stinger-SPV44.html
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Columbia, South Carolina

Post Number: 14557
Registered: Dec-03
http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/batteries/index.htm
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 57
Registered: Jun-11
glass, your pages are way too technical for me, i'm sorry, I suck at physics!

Joe- what's the difference between the red and the yellow stinger batteries? I'm not questioning your suggestion, I'm just asking questions is all. like is there a better battery? I do plan on adding another sub later on, so If I get a higher power battery now, will it have bad effects on the amp, like will it push too much power to the amp, or will it ruin the battery because I'm not using it to its full potential?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 604
Registered: May-09
Yellow is within the "power" series red are "power2" and "pro" series, yellow is appropriate for the power level you intend to use it in, I chose the model based on amplifier power capacity so that if you add that second sub and reduce the load to 2 ohm it will still work perfectly, yes there are much more powerful batteries but no point in buying that, and no the battery will not get ruined at all for "under-use", batteries ordinarily get damaged by deep discharging overcharging high temperature, excessive or extended current draw above specs, also they have a limit on charging cycles, also the amplifiers will not get damaged for good solid power at all so don't worry about that either.

Anyways you should avoid using your audio system with the car turn off for extended periods of time or frequently, and you should make sure that your electrical system fully working.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 58
Registered: Jun-11
ok so how do I check to see if the battery is going to fit in my car? I cant find a fit guide on stingers website
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 607
Registered: May-09
Ok, so here are the dims and manual:

6.75"H x 7.75"W x 6.5"D

Look at the Spv44 on the manual:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/images/pdfs/6spv35_44_70.pdf
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 60
Registered: Jun-11
so I pulled a total noob move, purchased a battery that was way too small to run my car let alone my entire system. I didn't look at CCA's and things like that, luckily it was still within the grace period and I was able to return it. I purchased an optima D35 yellow top. Going to be installing it tomorrow. Was thinking since I am going to have the battery out that I should at least look at, if not perform, the Big 3 upgrade. I'm going to check out the terminals, measure wire, the whole shabang tomorrow. Kind of excited/nervous. Wish me luck
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 723
Registered: May-09
Love Optima as well, just went by your preference for suggestions but you will do fine with that, yes check power cabling also if you still have dimming. Don't think you need a big 3 upgrade but can't hurt of course, luck!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 61
Registered: Jun-11
so the battery is installed, and my system hits so much harder, it is absolutely ridiculous the difference in sound when the amps are getting the right amount of power! I looked at my cabling and it really needs some love...terminals and everything. Wanted to know if you could suggest some terminals/wire to run....would 4g be enough? i really don't want to do it myself, i'm going to have my mechanic do it because if anything goes wrong I can take it back to him you know? but I would like to put some nice terminals, can you give me some suggestions on what to do? thanks! they are so corroded, they look like the original, i'm sure they are the original, and the car has 145k+ on it....gimme some suggestions and some links for a nice upgrade like should I use gold plated terminals or copper connectors....gimme some guidance.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 739
Registered: May-09
I'd say that the most important thing is not to keep old corroded stuff, you don't need to spend a ton of money on this, just, you know, pick something that you like and try to avoid bottom priced stuff, you probably would like to do a big 3 or at least have the alt connections cleaned and sanded, that helps the battery and the rest of your electrical quite a bit.

Just a link to battery terminals:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i256_battery-terminals.html

I like the ones that let you wire your audio lines straight from the battery terminals.

If you wish to redo the audio power lines, take a look at this:

Upload

Yes your system will be a little above 100A if you put that second sub so 4AWG (high quality like RF, Kicker) will be ok unless you plan to go upwards in power long term, here is access to the kits:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/search_new.php?action=search&keyword=wiring+kit&query_id=11193626&query_code=301978&product_type=25

And I hope your alt is not trashed like the terminals or the battery will loose some of it's edge overtime, on high RPMs it has to give some 13.8V or more to be ok.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 62
Registered: Jun-11
Yeah my audio power line is good. I have 4g jl wire running to the back. I want to perform big three, but really am nervous about doing it myself, so I am going to have my mechanic just replace the wires for my pwer supply.
I want to buy some good terminals and take them to him to install, should I supply the wire too? or would the 4g replacement wires that they sell at pep boys or autozone be good enough? I have some left over jl 4g and some 4g high current welding wire.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 742
Registered: May-09
I'd prefer to know what I am getting installed, all of it if possible. Stuff made for car audio in mind is probably better rather than stock replacements, well, at least avoid noname or brandless stuff (Chinese junk). You may be getting something that's worse than what you are uninstalling.
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 348
Registered: Jul-05
Big 3 I would go with 0g just because you may get the itch in the future to upgrade... you dont replace wires for the big 3... you add to what is there
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 63
Registered: Jun-11
ok, so you're telling me that I just add to what is already there huh? so I just purchased new terminals, they are on there way. I am going to purchase the 0g and just do it I guess....my alternator may be shitty man. When I first replaced the battery my system hit crazy hard with no issues, not it doesn't hit as hard and the lights are starting to dim again.....
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 745
Registered: May-09
Also depends on use, if you hear music with the car turned off then no alt will be good.

You may want to borrow a multimeter and test if voltage on the battery goes up when you turn on the car, if you higher your RPMs the voltage should further increase up to nearly 14V, if voltage is lower then you know something is going on, even with your services on it should near 14V.

If after the big 3 upgrade it passes the tests, then you are ok if not then, probably the alt its on its way down, usually there are 3 phases, it can still go with 2 phases down but at reduced capacity.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 64
Registered: Jun-11
So I made an appointment to have bestbuy (have a $200 store credit from some returned infinity kappas) do the big 3 for me. I don't want to do it myself, eff some things up, then have to deal with that. I'm not too savvy when it comes to doing things like that. I mean I can figure it out, but I get a little nervous and it takes some trial and error you know?
So I'm picking up the 0g tomorrow (saturday) and getting the ring terminals and picking up some new battery terminals. I hope this does the trick. I will ask bestbuy to put a multimeter on the battery so I can take a look at it when I pick the car up sunday afternoon.

the music plays when the car is off with no problem. you can just feel the system sucking the energy from the car man. if the deck is above 20(not even a third of the way) when I press the button to roll the windows down the lights dim...they dim when the sub hits too, and its weird its like when the mids hit, like when the 4-channel amp pushes more wattage to my mids it seems to dim aIot too....hope the big 3 works, It's probably just the old terminals....freshening things up will help a lot i'm sure, as well as the big wire letting more voltage go through! i'll update you guys when its done...

i'm excited man, my last car, the VWgolf....rest in peace lucille...wasn't nearly as tricked out as this. I'm excited to have a somewhat nice care to invest into, this is my first "real" sound system, when I have some realy nice things, and it's only getting better each time. can't wait until I upgrade the front end, I was even thinking about ripping out the 6x9's and putting some 8inch drivers on the back panel....who knows man, then I would have to invest into a 3way crossover....oh the joys of an expensive hobby...lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 759
Registered: May-09
It's damn expensive, you got that right. LOL, and it's been really hard for you, rarely you see someone having so much trouble with the electrical system at that power level, but overtime your work shines.

I hope you don't need the alt upgrade it's harder to do and a lot of money.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 65
Registered: Jun-11
so I ended up not doing the big 3, I was going to have bestbuy do it, but I bought some 0/1g and got ripped man. the stuff was horrible at first he said it was ofc, then he said it was 70% ofc....I got that stuff and it was lighter than the 4g I have in there, like waaaaay light. it's some american bass brand stuff that is horrible. found the guy off of CACO, he was local so I met him and after I got it to the shop they just laughed at me. so instead they installed a capacitor, which I was semi-against, but it seems to be working pretty good. I'm going to purchase some 0/1 OFC straight from either knukonceptz or stinger and redo my terminals and everything. I got in contact with a car electrical shop that does alternators and anything electric. they said it's be around $200-250 for an installed HO alternator for my car....they said it'll be around 160a-180a....i gotta call them back for an exact quote....I was wondering I've seen those fitzall HO alts....what do you think about those? and if I do go through with the HO alt I think I would just get it local from these guys, you know just incase anything goes wrong or whatever I can just bring it straight to the shop and plus they will install it right there and everything which is cool.

anyways I always wanted to know about some deadener...Im definitely a bargain looker, which has gotten me in some trouble, but also has gotten me hooked up too...just curious if you've used that fatmat deadener or have even heard of it...they sell it on ebay...should I just shoot for the original dynamat or dampmat/alphadamp....I know glasswolf gave me some direction on deadener but that stuff was crazy expensive man, crazy expensive, like I felt insulted by the price...lol j/k but you know what I mean?? so not to insult glass, but I dont make that much money
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 879
Registered: May-09
I know exaclty what you mean, chinese junk for sure. Sorry. Capacitors are ok in your power level but mainly to mask the symptoms and for what you said before it's really important to redo the alt connections, no matter how good the alt is if current can't flow freely your batt won't fully charge. I guess that it's an easy (but uncomfortable) upgrade just follow the alt cables and change one at a time washing and sanding the hell out of the location where the connection is made.

On the alt, check this:
http://www.powerbastards.com/

Try a direct fit model instead, they are ok, but overkill IMO for your system, watch out warranty and stuff, and if refurbished.. the usual.

Moreover sometimes your alt can be repaired if just has some blown diodes, sometimes they can be rebuilt to higher power so check those options, could save you some money.

I would use a top deadener in the doors, you get most of the rattling there specially if you put some nice components, and then probably put some lesser quality on the trunk and elsewhere IF you are not seeking for SPL boost, the fatmat stuff has mixed reviews on it so I don't think I would recommend it.

And Glasswolf who knows where this guy has gone, Joe S. as well but it makes sense I guess, the forums had gone silent as never before and the owners havent bothered to even change colors on this thing...LOL.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 67
Registered: Jun-11
so you're saying that use some lesser quality in the trunk if I don't want an SPL boost?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 880
Registered: May-09
I would use better stuff on the doors since there is where things get crazy when you pump up the watts (besides being near your ears). Rattling itself won't be a big issue inside the trunk, you use it there so that the soundwaves get reflected back into the cabin. I mean if you don't care much about that you can save yourself some cash and still get some of the benefits.

If you want to compete then you put the best deadener everywhere in your car so you can't even hear the engine! I have seen dynamat put inside sub enclosures! Hope that get my point across.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 68
Registered: Jun-11
Joe my man! so I got 26.6^2ft of dampro for 90 bucks....going to slap that all around my trunk the weekend of the 2nd....I don't think that 26^2ft is going to cover my whole trunk...so after I submit this post i'm going to buy some more off of ebay....lol!

Curious about the difference between CCA and OFC....I'm sold on KnuKonceptz wire, just want to know if I should get, i've been looking other places, other brands...gimme some suggestions. I'm new, you know this, but I wanna know should does it matter that much between OFC and CCA? I see that knu's 1/0 OFC can handle over 300a right, and the CCA handles right around 250a...so I do plan on upgrading my system, i'm definitely not going to stay at 1000wrms on one sub forever, so If I do put the wire in, I want to do it right that way when I do upgrade I don't have to run new wire. eventually I wanna run an SAZ3500d, or a rockford 2500bdcp on something really nasty. throw some of your opinions at me brotha
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 926
Registered: May-09
Ok nice!, you may want to consider the following difficult spots back there and depending if you have rattle or not:

1) the rear deck, both sides.
2) the trunk lid.
3) the back of the license plate.

To prevent that the thing comes off overtime check the installation instructions before applying. Also there is spray on deadening good for some spots.

Regarding the cabling just buy good quality specified cable and make sure you never go above the current specification for that cable, also make sure the fuse is sligtly below the spec when using CCA, it's known to blow in nasty ways when overloaded.

For example OFC will let you do 1/0 while you will probably need a 2/0 on CCA, decide for the cheapest option.

If you are planning on big stuff for later doing a 2/0 will have you covered for almost any project that you ever undertake. I mean you would have to go crazy to need a 3/0!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 69
Registered: Jun-11
cool...yeah man secondskinaudio had a pretty cool blackfriday sale thing..I have that ~26^ at home now, and just ordered 13^ more for like 50 bucks of their damplifier pro....imma let you know how it works...~40^ should be good for my trunk man....imma prolly need like 4-6 more sheets for when I get my front comps put in....al and eds has a 50% off thing right now, was gonna jump on that for some focal's, but I'm kinda being impulsive, so I think imma slow down a little bit before I get too ahead of my self...lol!!!

I get what you're saying, I'll just stick to the OFC, it can handle more than 300a, and I plan on running about that in the future so imma just do it right the first time. damn gonna be like ~$100 in just wire...lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 930
Registered: May-09
Also you can put a second layer if you didn't get the results you wanted in a specific area.

I love Focal, I know they are damn expensive, also are strong in highs (not harsh), in a budget you can look at their integration series, they have polyglass cones.

And yes 1/0 OFC can handle most sane projects and is easier to do than a 2/0.
 

Gold Member
Username: Sinful_systems70

15 INCH WANG...

Post Number: 1327
Registered: Nov-06
Be careful when buying knukonceptz wire. The cheaper stuff is copper clad aluminum, making 1/0 actually equivalent to 4 gauge welding cable.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 70
Registered: Jun-11
yeah....i'm going to stay away from the CCA...Imma use there kolossus fleks....the OFC it can handle more than 375a
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 956
Registered: May-09
One can just set a target current and choose any wires that can handle that current, that unless are noname stuff proboably overrated, if you are using CCA though, you better aim for higher spec say 10% above you requirements and fuse accordingly just to be safe. Other than that I wouldn't worry to much.

And WOW if it's 375A you could wire a 4.6K amp on that cable or probably more on 14.4V or above!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 71
Registered: Jun-11
yeah man...just bought some off a guy @CACO...
he had a 25' run of black KNU OFC for 85 shipped...stoked on it!!!
plus got some battery terminals for 10 shipped from another guy, pos and neg....xscorpion they have 3 screws so I'll have enough to run stuff with.

I know this is way ahead of the game, but if I wanted to put an extra battery or two in the trunk how would I know what to get, as far as matching it to my system....like would I look at the amphours on the battery and match it to the ampdraw from my amps?
 

Gold Member
Username: Sinful_systems70

15 INCH WANG...

Post Number: 1328
Registered: Nov-06
I like the knukonceptz "compression" style batt terminals.

Uses a compression fitting for 180 degrees of contact. great product! Here is a link....

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Battery%20Terminals
 

Gold Member
Username: Sinful_systems70

15 INCH WANG...

Post Number: 1329
Registered: Nov-06
^^^^^^^^^^^"I know this is way ahead of the game, but if I wanted to put an extra battery or two in the trunk how would I know what to get, as far as matching it to my system....like would I look at the amphours on the battery and match it to the ampdraw from my amps?"^^^^^^^^^^^

All the specs are important but "Amp hours" and cold "cranking amps" are the two that I see have the most importance.The rest of the factors are dependent upon brand or quality(for example, the Kinetik and other similar brands have more plates and a very low ESR so they can supply more amperage under a load). however, I would highly recommend getting a high output alt first! Adding another battery will only work the alternator harder (trying to supply amperage to your amps and vehicle accessories while trying to charge 2+ batteries all simultaneously) and since you are looking to strengthen your electrical system, my guess is your current alternator can not keep up the way it is! So adding a second or third battery will not solve the problem. JMO
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 964
Registered: May-09
I would be careful with mixing batteries unless specs were reasonably close, choosing the same model for all of them would be best *IMO*.

And YES if batteries become somewhat discharged the alternator would be hit as the batteries draw current while charging. The alt and the big 3 should be done first.

One other thing is that multiple batteries are not necessary in most cases for everyday use, usually are added when one plays with the car off extensively. Only very high power amps (or multiple amps) will benefit in a meaningful way of having batteries next to it.

And the Knu OFC is also 375A!!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 72
Registered: Jun-11
yeah...as soon as I get everything the big 3 will be getting done for sure. I think I'm going to wait a little bit to run the new wire. Imma do the sound deadeding this saturday, then the following weekend the big3, then after the new year probably run the power line to the back....projects to look forward to
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 73
Registered: Jun-11
@Sin
yeah I get you, i'm just curious brudda, i'm trying to soak up as much as possible. I already ordered the xscorpion terminals...it was $10 shipped for the pair. wanted to get something inexpensive that was going to get the job done better than what I currently have, which are shot the eff out! lol i'll keep you guys updated
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 74
Registered: Jun-11
proud of myself!! completed the sound deadening and didn't really eff anything up, and got all the covers back on and took out the stock 5 disc cd changer to give myself some more room in the trunk...the trunk lid is so deadened its ridiculous...that was the hardest part, after I got that done everything else was a breeze!! it hardly rattles at all now!! the rear deck still has a little rattling, but that's because I didn't want to take down the distribution block and the capacitor...all the trunk lining was enough work lol. I still have 4 12x20 sheets left, 2 for each of the front doors when I put in new components up front
I popped a fuse today I turned the gain all the way up on my amp to test and see how good this damplifier pro works, which it works great, and I forgot that I set the low end pretty high on my deck....the sub was pounding super hard about 1/3 of the way cranked up...I went to turn it up more and the sub cut out...lol I thought I blew the sub/amp or whatever, but thank god it was just the fuse!! I was actually pretty excited about it! lol! I'm ordering a few more thingsand going to do big 3 next weekend...should be fun! thanks for supporting me guys!
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 977
Registered: May-09
Yes that lid is the big rattler back there, everyone outside hears it and junks your install, the doors is where the real problem is if you put some beefy components, the whole thing will seem to be coming apart..lol.

And I guess that cap is doing something for you after all, just remenber that it just masks the problem.

Overall doing great, the big 3 is an easy upgrade just cleaning first sanding next, each terminal romoving one at a time, can get you tired though but overall easy. Take care with the +12.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 75
Registered: Jun-11
what's the +12 mean? just curious...
ordered a set of focal 165vr components today paid $225 shipped....they were the floor models....I have a good amount left, some $66 left on an in store credit with bestbuy, so I'm going to take it there and use that up to get em installed....thought about doing it myself, but then was just like eh, I'll use that card, don't really have anything else of interest to use it on. Thought about installing the comps myself, I might still do it, just so I can get the experience you know? Just wondering where I should put the deadening at on the door when I install the comps...I have 2 12x20 pieces for each door. should I get more to do the whole door? or that should be enough right? thanks again...
and Joe what are you running in your car? what's up with your set-up?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1003
Registered: May-09
Only avoid forgetting to disconnect the ground terminal from the battery before proceeding since you will have in you hands a live wire having very high potential current (alt to the positive terminal of the battery) around many grounded metallic parts.

And that's great, polyglass Focal, yes that's an older model but solid midbass from those, many people upgrade 3 times before getting to something like those.

And regarding the install I would have that done honestly, the deadening of the doors as well since all can be done together, if it was an amp or something like that would be easy.. but you'll say man.

And yes the whole door needs to be deadened and there are some extra problems with that location which is humidity, the door mechanisms and the vibration of the speakers themselves.. as before my advise is have to it done.

Your setup is starting to look like mine..lol, the Pioneer p880prs head unit, components and midbass drivers from Focal some old school SQ amps and a single 12" DLS magnesium cone sub. I am taking a break, since I just love the space on the trunk for now after many years.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 78
Registered: Jun-11
I like your set up. does the 880 have a bandpass option, or if you want to go 3-way active do you just set the rear hpf to meet the sub and the frontend hpf to meet the cut off? I think thats what I'm going to half to do, instead of getting an active external 3-way, which is just going to be a pain, but it would probably sound good.
so I did the 2 grounds for the big 3. the engine block bolt was covered by some hoses and it was crazy trying to get that thing loosened. it serious took me an hour to get that bolt out, I felt like a king after I did it, then I had to go buy another bolt to match it, and that mofo took another hour to get it in lol....I also could seem to find out which wire or connection on my alt went to my battery, and it doesn't look like a regular bolt with a ring terminal going back to my battery, I'm going to take it to a shop (mechanic) and ask them what the deal it so I can do this, I'm sure as soon as I get that wire on there I will be seeing better distirbution of power....kinda bitter it took me like 5 hours to do this on saturday....then I went to replace my fuse right, and effin bestbuy mounted my cap infront of my fused distibution block...morons. I swear, so I'm going to spend another day setting up my cap/block a different way. then check this out, I turned my gain up on my amp to see how good that sound deadening worked....forgot to turn it back, so thats why the fuse popped. I forgot to turn it down, put a 150a fuse in, that popped....I'm like wtf I guess the amp is pulling a lot of juice, it totally didn't dawn on me, so I put a 200a in, and it fried my amp, I don't know what happened...the voltage on the cap read 14.2 like the whole time. I'm kinda bitter at my noob mistake, but hey, this stuff happens man, so I'm either going to find a local off of CACO to fix it for a reasonable price, or try to trade it out with one of the oldschool fosgate collectors on CACO or other sites.....but I'm really curious to know what happened for real. I know none of the wire touched or anything, the amp for my mids is working fine. look forward to hearing from you.
I'm curious who has used sundown products? I'm wanting to know if I should grab a 1500 sundown, I can always strap 2 later on if I want to go bigger, and I've heard nothing but good reviews....is rockford cleaner power, and does rockford sound better? kinda curious.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1034
Registered: May-09
That's right the 880 features a DSP implemented 3 way active crossover, any way you implement a fully active setup SQ just skyrockets, the catch is that is hard to fine tune, those analogs had to be brought in to the driver's seat to tune from there before actually installing, for now with your new speakers you will get a step up for sure, later you can do the crossovering if you want.

Firstly, the cap is reading above 14?? sound too good considering the symptoms you have experiencing.

If I remember right you had the 1001bd which if fact has to be fused at 100A, since you are running a 4 ohm sub it could only deliver 700W to the sub out of underrating so on that impedance:

700/(14.2*0.85) = 57.9A hard clipping current can be up to 81A @ 4 ohm.

Blowing a 150A fuse seems hard still... maybe the amp had some issues to begin with.. anyways did you check the sub??

Sundowns are very tolerant to abuse and underrated but I'd most likely would stick with RFs.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 79
Registered: Jun-11
it was really weird man, come to find out the 1001bd was fused @80a, the guys that did the install (BestBuy) are retarded, I wish I had the time and was more confident with what I can do back then. I would have done a way better job, matter of fact they mounted my fuse box in a place that was so hard to reach...i'm bitter.

so yeah, I went to a lexus forum, and I guess that with the model year lexus that I have has issues with dimming, it's nothing to do with alternator or anything, just the way it is. I could not have my system on and the lights will dim when I press the window button. weird huh?

Yeah it was weird man, I think the amp had issues. I looked at the 200a fuse that I put in and it was discolored like it was close to blowing...weird huh?

So I was close to getting a t1500bdcp off of CACO for $330ish shipped from some guy in upstate newyork, which he ended being real flaky and the situation had me skeptical because he kept playing around. I ended up purchasing an SAZ-1500d, kind of excited to see what happens. I'm a little nervous because It's out of my comfort zone, but I am a little bitter with RF as of now, Later, maybe in a year or 2 depending on how much I like this SAZ, I want to upgrade to a T2500bdcp. But I'm going to do my best to enjoy this sundown, see what they are like. everybody seems to nut-hug em, it must be for a reason??

I orderd some more dampro from secondskin during their Xmas sale, I did my driver door today, man you weren't kidding, it's weird man. you can't just slap it on like you can in the trunk, you gotta cut it into smaller pieces and get all these nooks and crannies, and with the lexus, it's like they had a plate bolted on to cover the middle, I dunno got to explain it, so I unbolted that and totally covered that because that looked like that would be a major problem, but I really think that this could be a bigger job that I bargained for, I could have taken off a few more things. I'm going to take a look at my passenger side door and take it apart a little mroe and see, but there just doesn't seem to be more to deaden. I got the main part of the door, the outer part, but the inner panel is so like small and piece work, I got most of it covered, they talk about the 25% rule, which I personally think is nonsense, but hey, it should be pretty good....man you should see what they did for the stock component. First off, it's a 5.25", and they made this crazy housing for it....all that's coming out and I'm going to need some fabrication to house these Focal 6.5" I got...Theres a pretty reasonable place down in Chula Vista that'll do it....I dunno, imma cross that bridge when I come to it...just looks like a headache waiting to happen...anyways until next time guys!
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1101
Registered: May-09
The big issue with the doors is humidity that can crap your mids and the deadener itself, check out some tutorial on how to proceed with the the other door and also take care how to protect the Focals or in time when you get them out will be turned to junk. One way or the other I always do my installs.

And the damn hobby I guess it's totalling your pockets by now! 2 blown amps..But that SAZ is freaking powerful, will do well beyond 1500 hope you got it from Db-r, watch out for the JL sub, it can get smoked it in a millisecond..hope that the RF didn't blow it already... only Xcons, Btls, DCs IAs and the sort can take what that SAZ delivers.

If the dimming occurs as the bass hits you have a problem with your electrical.. I don't know about your services dimming the lights that could be a design flaw..but all of that can be dealt with if it bothers you.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 81
Registered: Jun-11
Where would I locate a tutorial, I you-tubed it a few different times and I couldn't find anything for my car specifically. Or do you mean a tutorial that would work for all cars to help with humidity

yeah man, I'm bitter. The RF didn't blow it man, I got it hooked up to my boys MRP-650 right now and it's making his navigator slam...letting him use it until I get my SAZ in to make it choke...plus Imma just beat the sh!t outta that w3 until it's time for a new sub..

speaking on new subs...thinking about either a BTL N3, N2, or BL 15"
I would put the BTL's (n3 and n2) in 5 cubes and tune em to 32hz
and I would put the BL in 4 cubes and tune it to 32hz as well, think you could throws those on the graph for me. and just put the rms at the rated 1500, or really you could put it at 1800, if you could please...even though that saz is prolly going to throw about 2k at it

and could you explain box rise for me? people talk about getting clamped numbers out of there amps on certain subs and talk about the impedance after box rise. I figure that the bos terminals raise the resistance up. but maybe you could explain it a little more and give me some help on how to keep it lower so I can get the most out of my amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1104
Registered: May-09
Ok, you are not going to find most likely anything for your car it's more like a general technique, to cover the access holes to the inner mechs of the doors before applying the deadening, the same goes for the midbass, it's a lot of detail work, that's why I suggested to have it done. A properly done front stage is hard to get really right and most of your SQ performance will come from that.

And good thing the JL didn't blow, that amp had issues, you know where those 150A go?? 150A would melt that sub.,..

Those BTLs BLs and the likes are usually high tuned but suggest me one and I will get you some plots the N3 tunes really high, I would recommend a daily sub for a SQ setup.

The box impedance rise is related to acoustical load (mainly). The box will not let the sub move freely as it would happen if there was no box and that's because of the pressure differential between the outside and the inside of the box.

That acoustical load effectively changes the electrical impedance presented to the amplifier. This is similar to what happens to a drill motor for example, if you block it from turning, the impedance presented to the power source lowers and the motor burns after a while. This is the simplest way I can explain it. I could go on and on but the important thing to know is that unless you are planning to compete you should not be concerned about it. Just having a good electrical and a well designed box does the trick.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 82
Registered: Jun-11
I'm going to have the speakers done professionally at a shop next week, I'm getting a 2way security with remote start put on and having em do the focals as well. So like what do you mean cover it. What would I cover the access holes with and what are the acces holes...are you meaning the holes that were covered by the plastic that I ripped off? I dunno, imma goto a local stereo shop tomorrow, Imma ask em if I can use there drill bit to tap my firewall, I don't have one that is big enough for that 1/0...and man that stuff is huge, that KNU OFC 1/0 is more like 2/0...I had to open up the ring terminals just to make it fit.

So the box doesn't let the sub breathe or work freely, so it causes resistance, thus telling the amp that the impedance is greater. Physic concepts?

So what are you thinking I should get. I saw some 13.5 w6s. what would sound the best. I really like the sound of the w3 I have now, but I definitely want something louder. People on here rep those pretty hard.
can you put these on a plot
FI Q 15" in 4 cubes @32hz
2jl w6v2 13.5" in 4 cubes tuned to 33hz
and maybe a few other subs that you would suggest.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1113
Registered: May-09
The plastic you took away was put there for the same reason, protect the inner side of the door from humidity, so since you can't apply the deadener over a loose plastic you just make some covers for those holes and when all are covered then you apply the deadener, to the midbass you make a bed that serves both to prevent resonance and protect from the weather.. since that is a lot of work I just suggested to have it done, the hard part is to setup the midbass in a way that sound coloration does not appear, it's kind of hard to really get it right.

And yes those high quality cables are "oversized" versions of the nominal gauge so they can be beefy.

The FiQ and The Fi SSD the SSA ICON and XCON are great options for a SQ system, it would be better to have the max dims that you want to put to use on your trunk for me to figure out what to suggest, also dual drivers are an option if you have te space.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 84
Registered: Jun-11
hey man, I got the dimensions...sorry I took so long, been on one with school and everything. so the max dims are 16"H 28"w and can I wouldn't want it more than 32D, but it can smaller, like 24-28 would probably be Ideal. I would want to tune it low, probably around 30-32hz....whatever cu feet combos you get out of that and I think imma get a sundown nightshade to put in it..what other subs would be good...you think you could put it on your graph and stuff and show me some options?

also I took adantage of a sale on optimas on ebay...got a group34 for 140 shipped, bnib, so then I bought another 20' run of knu terminals and am gonna set up a second battery in the next couple of weeks, also got a clarion eqs746, some stinger level3 rcas, and a viper 5701 all needing to be hooked up still, as well as those same focals...I haven't had enough time to take em anywhere to get it all done...kinda bitter about it. but lemme know what you think, sorry I haven't been on here in a while...i've mostly been on CACO and DIYMA....this forums super dead...
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1278
Registered: May-09
e is now ghost town ..LOL

I check less often these days.

But OK you say maybe a single nightshade what diam? and for other suggestions what budget?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 85
Registered: Jun-11
actually I've decided and am going to stick with it...a single 15" bl in 4.0^ft on 1500rms tuned to 30 31 or 32 hz....my max dims are 20H 32w and however deep I need it to be to get 4 cubes man....depth is kinda whatever....just whatever will gimme what I need....do you need anything else?

I can get a custom BL from a guy offa CACO made for me....I got like 300 for the sub....but you know me, I don't buy anything new from a retailer, I always buy underground man!!! I support the locals or other enthusiasts that help keep this car audio thing going!! lol! FTMFW! anyways, thats the 2 rockstars and mt.dew talking.....I work graveyard man, gotta keep entertained between homework sessions. hit me back and lemme know, maybe toss them on a scale for me if you can....

and man those focals are so clean, crisp, and freaking LOUD!!! omg and the eq gives them that crispness....I haven't heard anything like those in a while man...best 250$ I've spent
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1279
Registered: May-09
I work graveyard...lol nice man.. and yes I love that eq very clean sounding for the price, so here is a BL box spec 4cuft@32Hz high port area:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32.026 Hz
Vb = 4.003 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted

External Height = 20 in
External Width = 30.77 in
External Depth = 21 in

Port Width = 3 3/4 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front = 26 1/4 x 18 1/2
Front Internal = 24 3/4 x 18 1/2
Back = 30 3/4 x 18 1/2

Left & Right Sides:
Side 1 = 19 1/2 x 18 1/2
Side 2 = 20 1/4 x 18 1/2

Top & Bottom = 30 3/4 x 21

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 15 3/4 x 18 1/2
Extension = 15 3/4 x 18 1/2


Upload

The pic is mostly fun, the corner on the port turn and the smoothing or the inner corner improve SQ a bit so see if those can be done.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 86
Registered: Jun-11
bro, epic fail....thank you but super epic fail...redid measurements today, because I knewI missed something....the depth can probably only be 16", tops 18 because of the lip on the trunk, the width can go as big as 33" but the height can only be 18....epic epic fail....thank you for doing this though, think you could redo it with these dims...I'm so sorry bro...I know you spend your time with this stuff....so 18D 18H and 33W and what would be the difference tuning it to 30hz instead of 32 hz? what would that look like? and if you can try and keep it double baffled...lemme know brother...thanks again man you're awesome...are you on any other forums? and if so whats your username?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1280
Registered: May-09
Well if you don't have the sub yet, think about 2 12" those will sound much better if you can get them in proper volume, 30Hz is a really low tuning, good for young jeezy stuff and the likes, to play a wider range of music a little higher tuning is used.

The BL 15" willl work rather tight in the new dims so think about this and let me know.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1283
Registered: May-09
Ok so check this plot, SPL Vs frequency BEFORE cabin effects at rated power.

Upload

Green Fi BL15" 3 cuft@ 30Hz
Blue Fi BL15" 4 cuft@ 30Hz
Red Fi Q15" 3 cuft@ 30Hz
White Fi BL15" 3 cuft@ 40Hz

From the plots you can see that the BL is more of a SPL driver that gives much more output high tuned, the Q works better on low tuning.

The BL can work at 3 cuft@30Hz but is not really a good configuration for it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 87
Registered: Jun-11
ok so I'm kinda effed then man...I got a box built, it ended up being 3.7^cubes net @32hz, but it was way too deep. I can only go like 18" deep 34"wide and 18"height.........My friend is building another box, going to be single baffle and tune it to like 33 hz I guess....I shoulda got a fricking Q man,....kinda kicking myself for it, but I'll roll with this bl for a while then get something new in about 6 months....haha
 

Bronze Member
Username: Dcollister440

Post Number: 88
Registered: Jun-11
are you on any other forums joe? if so let me know, this one is dead and I'd like to stay in contact with you
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1368
Registered: May-09
Those dims should work:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 33.011 Hz
Vb = 3.754 ft^3

External Height = 18 in
External Width = 34 in
External Depth = 18 in

Port Width = 3 1/2 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front & Back = 34 x 18

Left & Right Sides = 16 1/2 x 16 1/2

Top & Bottom = 34 x 16 1/2

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 13 x 16 1/2
Extension = 12 x 16 1/2


Place some front to back crossbracing if going for a single layer baffle.

Yes the Q likes the low end better and can live in 3 cubes but looking at the above your still ok on 3.7. Should hit way harder than the 13.5 JL.

I still like it here don't think is going down just yet, if I were to move on I think would go to DIYMA as is SQ oriented.. I guess I will setup something there...
 

New member
Username: Kawaii

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-12
The next time you get a car, you can Go to a dealership in Springfield. Why? They have experts that can give you tons of reliable advices regarding the deal. Their expertise will satisfy all your questions and needs regarding your car. Choosing the ideal car is never easy that is why a reliable dealership is very helpful.
 

New member
Username: Johnvella

New York City, New York United States

Post Number: 9
Registered: Sep-13
simple! You have to check manual first
 

New member
Username: Rorence

美国

Post Number: 6
Registered: Apr-17
Maybe you just need a charger. When you think about upgrading your battery, you need to charger to charge the battery in case of something wrong or not convenient for you. I have met the same trouble before. The 300w car 12v DC to 110v AC power inverter that I choose is bestek. This inverter can help you charge in safe way. You just need to choose the right standard. If you want to know about this type inverter, you can search it on Amazon. Now there is a discount for customers. Wish it is useful to you.
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