Somethings wrong with my car!

 

Bronze Member
Username: Tips

Post Number: 55
Registered: Jan-05
i dont have a system in my car at all... everythings stock. but for some reason when i turn on the radio, the HU flashes on and off, the headlights flash on and off, and the taillights do the same. the music doesnt stutter. even with the music off the lights still flash on and off. its seems as if the car is struggling to power itself. but it still starts okay. is something wrong with my battery? do i need to replace it? or have i short circuited something?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7417
Registered: Dec-03
sounds like it could be a bad alternator
have a garage or dealer put it on their diagnostic computer and see.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1182
Registered: Nov-04
Get it checked out asap or else you'll lose your battery too.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tips

Post Number: 58
Registered: Jan-05
ok here's the thing. i took my voltmeter thing and check the power of the battery, and it was 12 volts. i turned on the car and checkit while revin the engine and it stayed at 12. i turned on the headlights and radio and reved it and still stayed at 12 volts. is anything really wrong with the alternator then?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1187
Registered: Nov-04
Guy, you need to get it checked out asap! If your alternator is dead, then your battery will die shortly cause nothing's charging it. Remember, a reg battery will become useless if the voltage drops below 12v. It can't be revived. So do yourself a favour and visit a car garage soon. It's bad enough wasting money on a new alternator, but a battery too?
FYI, when an alternator is working, your reading should be 13.5 - 14.4 v. If you get 12v, it means you're getting all if not most of the power from your battery.
I went through the same problem when the alternator died in my Mustang. Well actually I wasn't that lucky, my battery died first, then the alternator. So I ended up replacing both.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tips

Post Number: 61
Registered: Jan-05
hm... aite. my cuzin wants to check the fuses real quick, then we'll take it to a shop. dont worry, i havent been driving my car... i'm just trying to figure out whats wrong before i take it to a shop so i dont get played.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tips

Post Number: 62
Registered: Jan-05
ok, new thing. while everything was flickering on and off, we noticed that there was this clicking noise whenever it flickered. eventually it stopped flashing, and the clicking kept on going. when we looked for the fuse box, we noticed that the clicking noise was coming from a box next to the fuse box labled "car securtiy system". (btw, the car is off) everytime we hit the car with our fists, the box would click TWICE. i lost the remote to the car a few months ago, and the security alarm randomly came on and off at times, and i had to start the car using the vallet button down by my left foot and still do. another aspect of the alarm was that when something hit the car, everything would FLASH and the car would beep TWICE... hm.... anyways. we disconnected the shock sensor from the car alarm box, and the clicking stopped. now when i test drove around, nothing flashes, or clicks. what is going on? could my alarm system be draining the battery or something? or is the alarm system just messed up? or does this still somehow relate to the alternator?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tips

Post Number: 65
Registered: Jan-05
another thing to add, when i test drove it, i turned on the headlights and the display on the HU went dimmer. i turned off the headlights and the display went brighter...
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1191
Registered: Nov-04
I'd still get the alternator checked out since you said you're only getting 12v. You could also measure the voltage with the headlights on. See if it drops. If it doesn't and your HU still dims, then the dimmer wire on the HU is screwed up.
Since you lost the remote for the alarm, I'd get that uninstalled or get a new one to replace it.
 

_Michael
Unregistered guest
My car just died this morning... No Power at all, I couldn't be started.
My mom drove it to work and then told me the battery light was on and the brake light was on, so I drove the other car down and switched... but it wouldn't start so I had 2 push start it, and after that I have NO POWER at all, it'll run if it is push started but no lights, no indicator, no radio, no clock... nothing, and it just shuts off if the car is outta gear for more than like 3 seconds.
My dad and I suspect the Voltage Regulator or the Alternator, but we had our alternator replaced like a year ago so i'm not sure what it would be.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 1574
Registered: Nov-04
Check your battery voltage. Make sure it's 12v or higher.
Try and get a boost from another car. See if that helps with starting. It could be your battery or starter.
Most shops will test your alternator for free.
 

Unregistered guest
does anyone know what is wrong with my daewoo lanos 1998 1 week before my muffler backfired and exploded sov I replaced the mechanic said there was probably a bigger problem then husband was driving and it overheated and engine cut out he thought he might have seized it as it wouldnt start after cooling down and filling with water looked like thermostat was leaking just put new one in 2 weeks before think motor is turning over but sounds funny and wont start Im hoping it wont be expensive
 

Anonymous
 
damn lady, it's a daewoo.
your not supposed to fix them when they break, you just throw them away and open another box of cereal to get a new one.
take your car to a mechanic. this is a car audio board, not the "shade tree mechanic"
 

Anonymous
 
My car just died on the road. It works for awhile and then just dies. The battery, wires, hoses, plugs, fuel injectors, engine and transmission are all fine. I have had it back to the mechanic several times but when he tries to find the problem nothing is there as a problem. When it dies it feels like gas is not going through the line and then no power. Its a 2000 chevy cavalier and has about 109,000 miles on it.

What is wrong with this car?????
 

Anonymous
 
My car just died on the road. It works for awhile and then just dies. The battery, wires, hoses, plugs, fuel injectors, engine and transmission are all fine. I have had it back to the mechanic several times but when he tries to find the problem nothing is there as a problem. When it dies it feels like gas is not going through the line and then no power. Its a 2000 chevy cavalier and has about 109,000 miles on it.

What is wrong with this car????? Does anyone have any idea? Please help.
 

angry_dwarf
Unregistered guest
your car needs to goto a mechanic.
take it there.
and stop bothering us with this.
 

Anonymous
 
I have had it back to the mechanic several times but when he tries to find the problem nothing is there as a problem. That is why I am asking for other advice. Is there anyone who may know what the problem is?
 

smp_rn_423
Unregistered guest
Would Love to know what the problem is because my 1997 cavalier is doing the exact same thing and I've read about a 91 and 92 that are doing it as well??? I have had everything replaced in the fuel lines and everything????
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nitescort

Post Number: 49
Registered: Mar-05
Am i in the right forum? Accessories...right?

ok then.....can I wear a purple tie with a blue suit? with socks to match?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 899
Registered: Sep-04
Only before labor day......

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 2287
Registered: Nov-04
I think they should have a thread for car problems cause there are some mechanics on here.
 

New member
Username: Damien590

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-05

Does anyone might no where the sensor box is
located on a 2001 cavalier? My engine light
stays on & the computer gave the p1870 code which
is transmission. Had it checked for metal
shavings (which was none) and had the screen
changed with new oil. The cars runs better BUT
the light won't go away.

I need to pass state inspection but don't want
to pay for $700.00 worth of transmission repair.
I needs that light GONE so I can pass.
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Walton, Ky

Post Number: 1975
Registered: Dec-04
same thing happened to me dude, there was a bad ground, thats it
 

Unregistered guest
im looking to buy a 2000 cavalier and dont know what im getting into... could anyone tell me the disadvantages to buying one of these cars?
 

Anonymous
 
hey, my friends car had the same problem. it mite be your alternator or fuel injecter. clean the engine and/or check all the small things. take it from me, im a girl
 

Anonymous
 
91 caddy deville. running rough. was told to change out hall effect switch in distributor. changed out along with plugs and wires. still the same. any info would be great??????
 

New member
Username: Prankstar008

San Diego, CA USA

Post Number: 4
Registered: Jun-05
[QUOTE]ok here's the thing. i took my voltmeter thing and check the power of the battery, and it was 12 volts. i turned on the car and checkit while revin the engine and it stayed at 12. i turned on the headlights and radio and reved it and still stayed at 12 volts. is anything really wrong with the alternator then?[/QUOTE]

the battery shouldnt remain at 12v all the time in the car you have...ur mulit is dead...my car drops to 11.59 when starting and goes up to 14 at times...and this measuring was done on a battery tester and later verifyed with my multi...the battery tester also confirmed that my electrical system is problem free....this information is probably not revelant, but i wanted to "put it on the table" if you will
 

Anonymous
 
I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4-door Sedan LX and it drives hard and it takes a while for it to accelarate. Sometimes when not in drive it makes noises
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 8127
Registered: Dec-03
yes. it's a honda.
it produces less torque than my lugnuts require.
they pretty much all run like that after about the first 4 years.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 8128
Registered: Dec-03
PS take it to a mechanic and get the timing belts changed, and have the engine overhauled.
It's LONG overdue for that, and should be done every 50,000 miles or less anyway.
 

Keith Breazeale
Unregistered guest
I own a 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier (Base Model). I have recently been having trouble while driving it (go figure)... anyhow, once the car gets warmed up and everything, whether I am at a stoplight or driving, it starts to hesitate then dies... I have also noticed that when I crank my car in the mornings, my theft system is on, but when my car dies, the theft light does not come back on, on the instrument panel... i know my fuel filter is going bad, but is there anything else I can try? Possible Computer failure maybe? Thanks For Your Time,

Keith Breazeale
 

Keith Breazeale
Unregistered guest
I own a 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier (Base Model). I have recently been having trouble while driving it (go figure)... anyhow, once the car gets warmed up and everything, whether I am at a stoplight or driving, it starts to hesitate then dies... Also, I notice right before my car starts to do this... whatever it is, I lose fuel pressure (faulty fuel pump?)Another thing, I noticed that when I crank my car in the mornings, my theft system is on, but when my car dies, the theft light does not come back on, on the instrument panel... i know my fuel pump is going bad, but is there anything else I can try? Possible Computer failure maybe? Thanks For Your Time,

Keith Breazeale
 

New member
Username: Leeishere

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-05
Hi i have a 1995 caddy sts, replaced the alternator..died again because the pulley went this time..since the 2nd alternator being put in..the lights keep flicking on and off from time to time. Today was sweltering and it died again as i sat idling in the car. Took 3 boosts to get it going. PLEASE give me an idea of what to do. I look good in it...but that aint worth much if you keep being towed home by a towtruck. Might have to buy a Volkswagon because this is becoming a true piece of work...any suggestion?
 

Anonymous
 
i have completly lost count on how many cars are being discussed.... there must have been 3 or 4 different cavaliers, a caddy, and some deadwoo... i mean daewoo....
 

Unregistered guest
I have a 2000 chevrolet cavalier and every so often it will die on me like at red lights. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
 

Import tuner
Unregistered guest
hey i got a 1988 honda accord lx with 285,500 miles on it, with no problems at all. and its got plenty of power on take off. gotta be an automatic for lack of power, real people drive manual trannys. the reason you are all having problems is because its an american car, specificly gm.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 9058
Registered: Dec-03
keep telling yourself that, import.

heh
my can has a prostreet automatic transmission and it's American. It's been around about as long as Japan's even been selling cars in the US.

The reason your car needs a manual transmission to feel any power is because your engine produces less torque than my lugnuts require. Real drag cars use a MRVB auto transmission with a trans-brake.

on a serious note if you have that many miles on that honda, think about replacing the timing belts if you haven't already. They need to be swapped out every 50K miles or so to keep from getting stretched out and throwing off your timing.

Jack, take the car to any garage and have it put on a diagnostic computer. read the GM trouble codes and see what's wrong. That's the best solution.
If you want to save money, fix the problems yourself once you find what they are.
 

Unregistered guest
I have a 98 Nissan Sentra that wont start... Its making crancking noises but then nothing, does anyone know what this could be, the lights come on and the alarm works...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 9508
Registered: Dec-03
I'd guess fuel pump failure.
replace the fuel pump (sits over the gas tank) and I bet it works.
you can test that theory by pouring some gasoline into the carb or throttle body and seeing if the car starts and runs for a few seconds before it dies again.
 

1234Steve
Unregistered guest
I see that many people with cavaliers are having problems. I have a 2000 cavalier and my problem may be similar to many others. On occasion, my theft system light will start flashing (when I initially turn my car on). I now know that the fuel system is disengaged when this happens. It is impossible to start the car. I have no idea what causes this problem or how to fix it. Time is the only thing that will make it stop flashing. I've been stranded for hours because of it. Has anyone had similar problems and what was the verdict?
 

New member
Username: Boyardeez

Pa

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-05
Hi im new here and i know this is probably posted in the wrong section but i need some help. Im upgrading the big 3 with 4awg. My problem is the alternator power wire goes into the fuse box. Now should i leave that alone and just reconnect it along with the new 4 gauge at the alternator. Or is it okay to cut that out and run directly 4 gauge to battery with a fuse inline. Also if i leave the original wire in the fuse box will i still need a fuse in the 4 gauge to battery. I know people are probly thinking whats this newb talking about but any help would be appreciated.
 

Unregistered guest
I have a 97 GrandAm with a new Alternator. A couple weeks ago I was using the remote to unlock my door and set off the alarm of the car next to mine (I don't have an alarm on mine at all). Every time I hit the lock or unlock button, their alarm went off. Since then, all of my lights flicker and the idiot lights (check engine, ABS, airbag) on the dash come on and off for no reason. Soemtimes they stay on, sometimes they go off. Alternator is new and there is no loss of power at all. Any ideas?
 

Unregistered guest
I have a 2000 cavalier and just had it inspected a few months ago annnnnnnd my check engine light was on so the guys at the shop had to reset the computer which cost me 90 bucks... guess what? same day we did that it came back on.. its also giving me the p1870 code which is transmisson sensor or something (thats what the mechanic told me) does ne one know what the deal is? is it something that can be fixed cuz 90 bucks to reset the computer is a lil up there everytime i wanna get my car inspected....
 

brandy203
Unregistered guest
stick with an import car....chevy cavalier, dodge neon and ford escort are the worst car in the world you can buy. PERIOD
 

Unregistered guest
just got a 2000 chevy cavalier Z24, not any problems except for the oil light goes on at random, then off, and sometimes goes on when I press the gas, I'm thinkin it could be the oil pump sensor or whatever, but I have no idea, where is it located and how do you reset it? thanx
 

Bronze Member
Username: Bestmankind

Post Number: 18
Registered: Oct-05
lol daewoo.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 1075
Registered: Apr-05
ink&needles: yea, oil pump. I'd just get rid of the car, it'll cost you plenty of $$$ to put a new engine in that (replacing oil pump is useless unless you do it yourself).

And brandy203: NO, get a REAL American car that has just a f*cking engine and a tranny. None of this computerized bullsh1t. Imports are even worse when they decide to sh1t the bed.

vickij: we "reset" the computer for free here. All you're doing is clearing the codes. And find out what code they're clearing. On that car it's usually the EGR solenoid, MAS (mass airflow sensor), but most likely an O2 sensor (located on the headers).
 

Bronze Member
Username: Bestmankind

Post Number: 19
Registered: Oct-05
anyone know how to turn off the check engine soon on a 02 bmw 5251? my uncle's check engine soon light came on so we asked the dealer and they said it's $150 just to check it and turn it off. they also said if something is wrong than that's just that is a separate charge.
 

ink&needles
Unregistered guest
i'm not sayin replace the whole pump, just reset the sensor, I'm not about to get rid of the car because I just got it like , 3 days ago. anyone besides this jake character know how to reset the sensor?
 

epiergs
Unregistered guest
I drove through a huge puddle in my 98 dodge avenger. Now when I accelerate it feels like I have a flat tire and the sounds like I have a flat as well. But nothing seems wrong with the tires. What could be wrong?
 

Unregistered guest
I have a question I hope someone can help me with. I'm not sure I'm even in the right area, so if I'm not, I don't need a smartass answer. I just need a different direction. Well, with that said, here goes: I have a 95 3oooGT. I had a viper alarm installed in April of this year. After that, I started experiencing different problems (mostly various electrical). The car started giving me problems by not starting, dying out, etc. I had the following replaced/repaired: clutch,fuel pump,several fuses and realys,ignition
module,starter, alternator and probably other items that don't come to mind at the moment. The car still doesn't start. But the bottom line is, I believe I need a new computer. My question for all this is, could the after market alarm have caused these failures?
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 4884
Registered: Nov-04
An alarm can not cause all those failures unless the installer was a moron. Where did you have your car serviced?
If all those failed after the alarm install, then you either have very bad luck, or the mechanic you're using currently is a major crook. Sounds like you will end up replacing your whole car in the very near future. I'd strongly urge you to get 2nd or 3rd opinion before paying any more money.
Did the mechanic actually show you the parts he/she replaced? Did you also ask for all of the parts back? The alternator for example, can easily be fixed or upgraded for a low fee. You mentioned about blown fuses, did they tell you exactly where those were from?
If possible, go back to your car shop, and ask for ALL of your old parts back. Who knows, maybe you can hire a lawyer and sue their "azz."
It really ticks me off, when dishonest mechanics rob people blind.
 

beer smells like ostrich
Unregistered guest
I AM SOFA KING WE TAR DID
 

JIMMY-20_05
Unregistered guest
HI COULD ANYBODY PLEASE HELP ME?!?!
MY CAR WAS WORKING PERFECT, ITS A 1996 CITREON SAXO. I WAS DRIVING ALONG AND THE REV COUNTER START GOING MAD AND GOING UP AND dOWN AND JUST WILD, EVEN THOUGH REVS WERE USUAL AND NOT GOING UP AND DOWN. SO I PULLED OVER AND TURNED OFF IGNITION AND IT WOULDNT START UP AGAIN BOTH THE RED AND GREEN IMMOBILISER LIGHTS WERE ON AND ALL THE LIGHTS ON DASHBOARD. IT WAS MAKING A BUZZING NOISE WHEN I TURNED KEY. WE JUMPED IT AND DROVE IT HOME IT WAS OK BUT REV COUNTER WAS STILL GOING WILD. IT STILL WONT START UP. ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS? ITS MY DRIVING TEST IN THREE DAYS SO I REALLY NEED CAR IF I PASS!!
 

JIMMY-20_05
Unregistered guest
I HAVE TALKED TO CITROEN AND THEY SAY ITS IMMOBILISER PROBLEM BUT FORMULA 1 AND AUTOCENTRE SAY ITS ALTERNATER.
ANYONE GOT ANY IDEA WHATS WRONG WIT MY CAR?!?!?!
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 4939
Registered: Nov-04
Take your car to Petshop boys for a FREE alternator check.
One way to know for sure is to get a DMM and measure the voltage with your car off and then running. If the reading is 12.5v or less, or skips up and down, then you either have a bad ground or bad alternator.
 

New member
Username: Getonice

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-05
Hi i was wondering if you could help me with a problem that i'm having with my cadilac. the problem is it just died on me, but everying electornic comes on. the ignition turns over but it won't start.
 

Unregistered guest
I have 1997 Dodge Avenger with a 2.5 V6 engine and Auto Transmission. It's got about 90k miles on it and I'm trying to get rid of it. Right now the check engine light which started coming on recently, intially the mechanic insisted it was the platinum spark plugs and it went away for a few weeks then it returned. It comes and goes but recently it stayed on and started flashing. What could be wrong and what should I do to make it at least sellable? I also smelled gas the day it happened so...
 

rob123
Unregistered guest
i got a 2000 z24 cavalier......now just a quick quesiton, when you open the door after you take the keys out the radio shuts off automatically......now recently I noticed when I take the keys out and open the door the radio keeps playing untill it shuts off on its own...why is that?
 

Anonymous
 
hey glass wolf i have a 1992 honda accord which
has 172000 miles on it and still runs great
 

Anonymous
 
hey, i have a 1995 ford contour and everytime im driving it under 20 miles per hour it dies on me and the oil lights comes on on. i tried changing the oil, but it still does the same thing. it is an automatic tranmission.

can anyone please tell me what is wrong with the car before i get rip off at an mechanic shop.
 

mihir
Unregistered guest
Get it checked else you will loose you bettery too
Send Flowers Ahmedabad
 

Anonymous
 
HELP i have a 2000 Honda Civic and this noise started 2 days ago when i start the car up and back up there is a hummmmmmmmmm in the front right i thought it might be breaks because it only happens when i back up, but last night when i was driving i heard a jingle noise coming from the right front i know jingle noise is not correct term but that is what it sounded like. I have never had one bit of trouble from this car. Could i have broken a shock or something wrong with brakes or ?????????????
 

Gardener
Unregistered guest
1996 ford contour revs up and down several times before stalling when started.
 

Anonymous
 
I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe. The engine light won't shut off. I had it checked out by a mechanic and he said nothing was wrong. But, the light won't shut off still. It seems to happen when it's real cold outside.
 

kcrisp
Unregistered guest
I have a 2001 Dodge Neon. There is no pattern in when the car "acts up". You can be driving down the road everything is fine & it dies (no lights, no warning, nothing - just dies) and in like 2 seconds everything comes back & I continue driving. BUT; It has "died" before & i have to touch the battery wire... It dont do it all the time.. Also, sometimes when I turn the headlights on - it kills the car. The car has "died" when I put it in gear or touch the break to put it in gear. HAS ANYONE GOT AN IDEA OF WHATS GOING ON? I NEED HELP. No Mechanic or Shop can tell me whats wrong b/c the Check Engine light does not come on - there is No Warning. I have taken it to 3 different shops & talked to SEVERAL Mechanics including the Dodge Dealership.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fandim

Reno, Nevada United State...

Post Number: 540
Registered: Jun-05
Sounds like you might have a power wire grounding somewhere..check to make sure you dont have any shorts.
 

enoch
Unregistered guest
HELP NEEDED WITH 2000 VOLKSWAGON PASSAT!!!
I took my car in a week ago because it wouldn't start and the garage still can't figure out what's going on. There is no power to the ignition, windows and trunk but the lights, radio, etc. work fine....the computer is not working either so the diagnostics they run are useless. Any ideas???
 

Idiot #1
Unregistered guest
I have a 98 Buick Century, it has been a great car until my water pump broke and drove it 150 miles home (driving really slow and making periodic stops). Not long after I replaced that I had to replace 2 fuel injectors. My car was still making a lot of noise and shaking, but I drove it anyway. Then I found out I had a oil leak and was driving w/o any oil, so I put some in which turned out to be the wrong kind (oops). Now my car will not start. Is it worth it for me to tow my car to the shop or is the engine shot?
 

Unregistered guest
my vw sharan starts then cuts out and red light on door flashes constantly need help
 

Anonymous
 
I have a 2001 Chev. Cavalier Z24...I was wondering is someone could help me with the process to replace my non-working keyless door entry remote...i saw on the net at keylessride.com a remote for $39.00, but it comes unprogrammed. Does anyone know where to get these programmed and about how much that would cost me??

Stang04
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

Post Number: 128
Registered: Jul-05
dealership and they will charge you an arm or your first born.
 

Unregistered guest
Toyota Camry 94 4 cylinder, first when ever i drove my car it would shake and wouldn't accelerate at its full potential, if the rpm is below like 2 it shakes and rumbles, because it was working fine until i drove in high snow. So i tried fixing it like chekcing to see what was wrong and when my car was running i took out a starter and it stopped wanting to turn on... i checked all the fuses and they all good. any ideas what it might be? I also tired changing the shift knob[automatic] but the one i put on was ugly so i changed it back.[could dat be something with the transmission]
 

PLEASE HELP
Unregistered guest
My car suddenly broke down while I was driving. It made a load rattle noise and immediatley stopped. The dash lights looked dimm after this, but the headlights are strong. It now makes a consistent grrrrrr noise when I try starting it. Any ideas and any clue how much it is going to cost me?
 

PLEASE HELP
Unregistered guest
I HAVE A 1996 VW GOLF CABRIOLET. MY PROBLEM IS THAT WHEN I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND TURN IT ONCE THE STEREO WILL WORK FINE; BUT THEN WHEN I TURN THE KEY FURTHER TILL THE WARNING LIGHTS COME ON OR FULLY TILL THE ENGINE RUNS' THE STEREO WILL CUT OUT AND STOP WORKING; AND THEIRS NO LIFE IN THE STEREO WHAT SO EVER; IVE CHECKED ALL THE FUSES AND THEIR FINE; IVE CHECKED THE WIREING OF THE STEREO AND THATS FINE AS ITS JUST A CASE OF SLOTTING THE PRE EXISTING FIXTURES TO THE NEW WIRES THEIRS NO CUTTING OF WIRES AT ALL; SO WHAT IS WRONG WITH ME STEREO WHY WONT IT WORK?????
 

Silver Member
Username: Fandim

Reno, Nevada United State...

Post Number: 793
Registered: Jun-05
So let me try to understand better. Your car will work when the key is in the "run" posistion, but when you start your vehicle, the system will no longer work?
 

Unregistered guest
I have a 4 door Honda Accord LX 1998 with about 78000 miles on it. Today as I was driving home the malfunction indicator lamp came on. according to the manual it could be because of a problem with my engine emission control system. Should I worry? Is it safe to drive it?
 

New member
Username: Ann2196

Rayville, La USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-06
Hi, I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 Ford Contour 4 cylinder. For a year it has been cutting out going down the road, and has at times quit. I figured bad gas, changed the fuel filter several times, changed the spark plugs, wires, put gas treatment in it, and it still did it. About two weeks ago, I went to store, and tried to start it, and it acted like it was going to, then just died. It wouldnt start back, and I had to have it towed to mechanic, who told me it was the fuel pump. Long story short, it wasnt the fuel pump, so I was taken to the cleaners by this mechanic. My brother in law, had to wind up putting another fuel pump on it, and a part that seals the gas tank, because the mechanic broke it. Anyway, I thought everything was ok for now, and the engine light came on on my way home from work and stayed on. It isn't running hot, and is not out of oil. Dont know what is wrong with it, but it is also still missing some. Can anyone help?
 

New member
Username: Dc_catzcar

GA United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-06
Hi, I'm hoping some one can help me. I have a 85 Saturn. About a week ago, it stopped running. I'd hear a clicking noise when turning the key. The radio, lights etc still all worked.

However it would start when jumped and be fine then not start again. I had the alternator cked and it was fine. The guy said the battery was ok for low charge but not for high charge. I bought a battery. Its started fine every since.
The problem now is, whenever I step on the brake the light on my radio and cigarette lighter dim. Also whenever I turn the car off to get out and open the door but press on the brake the car dings like its telling me the lights are left on or the keys are left in it..which neither is true. Thank for any and all help. DC
 

New member
Username: Eurotrash

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-06
I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger. Out of no where my car stopped working and everytime i open the door the alarm goes off. there is no way to turn off the alarm because the idiot who had the car before me did it wrong. It also won't start but the lights/radio/AC still work it's never done this before and i've had it a while now. I was told by a bunch of people this happened to them and it was because the battery was dying so I bought a brand new battery and it's still doing the same thing. Anyone know what else could be wrong?
 

Silver Member
Username: Titanbk

Mansfield, CT USA

Post Number: 104
Registered: Sep-05
call my crazy guys but I am pretty sure someone is messin with all of you. All these unregistered guests and anonymous posts are a little strange to me. And just for the record I am a nissan/GM tech so anybody that has any issues that they need help with, excuse me, any legit users of this forum that need help let me know
 

Gold Member
Username: Young_james

Canada

Post Number: 1204
Registered: Sep-05
"I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger. Out of no where my car stopped working and everytime i open the door the alarm goes off. there is no way to turn off the alarm because the idiot who had the car before me did it wrong. It also won't start but the lights/radio/AC still work it's never done this before and i've had it a while now. I was told by a bunch of people this happened to them and it was because the battery was dying so I bought a brand new battery and it's still doing the same thing. Anyone know what else could be wrong?"

Sounds like your alarm is sending out a signal to kill your ignition. I suggest unhooking the alarm all together and try again
 

New member
Username: Aweiserbud

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-06
lol actually sounds like ur alarm needs to be reset because maybe someone tried to steal it ( ignition kill)
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