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Need testing of my newly designed audio components stand

 

I am an artist that works with metal. I have recently designed a unique audio stand that I would like tested by an authority in the industry.
 

I doubt you will find one here.............
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 237
Registered: 12-2003
I'd be interested in seeing that stand, actually.
I built my own using wood and tempered glass, actually.
I used spalted maple for the rack, red cedar for the back panel, and smoked tempered and beveled glass for the shelves.
I modeled mine after an idea I got from a BDI, Int'l Ventura line piece I saw.
It's hand finished with tung oil over natural wood.

here are a couple images of it:
-front view
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/full/rack01.jpg
-front close-up of the top
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/full/rack02.jpg
-the cat napping on the RP82
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/full/rack03.jpg
-a side shot, with quarter-rounded edges
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/full/rack04.jpg
-the cedar cable routing back panel
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/full/rack05.jpg
 

New member
Username: Heff

Post Number: 45
Registered: 12-2003
this comment is usually reserved for well endowed women, but in glasswolf's case, i can say "nice rack" :-)
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 271
Registered: 12-2003
*snicker*

thanks
 

Anonymous
 
Visit www.id.co.yu (u have english version) and see how should rack look like. You1r is nice too but you should remove back panel for better air circulation.
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 827
Registered: 12-2003
maybe you got the wrong impression of the design.
the back panel is only about 8" wide, and used as a cable routing and concealing panel.
the entire back of the rack is otherwise open, and oversized for large components like Krell amps and CD jukebox changers.
The rack I built looks like a large "T" from above. The shelves are tempered glass and support up to 200+lbs each.
http://www.wickedcases.com/HT/
new pictures of it are posted at the bottom of that page.
you can't tell from the images, but the mains, sub, and rack all sit on PolyCrystal spikes and plates.
each shelf is isolated on the rack by plasticized rubber standoffs at all contact points.

The other thing to note is that with the spalted maple and red cedar and tempered glass used in this project, the entire rack cost me less than $300 to make.

The products on that site are nice, but I doubt as cost effective, and not nearly as nice as hand crafted wood for aesthetics.
 

New member
Username: Homedesign

Post Number: 41
Registered: 01-2004
One of the world's best speaker designers has a web site for DIY speakers. His Phoenix system, which he says is comparable to his $28k manufactred system, suggests either hanging the main panels with rope from the ceiling, or using a PVC pipe and flange to a MDF base for stands.

I hope this makes a comprehensive point about the effectivenss of stands for speakers.

Tip: do not use spikes on a rigid stand to a wood subfloor. It will transfer vibration that will re-radiate as distortion.
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 950
Registered: 12-2003
Fred, we're not talking about speaker stands.
we're talking about component racks.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Billdashill

Post Number: 47
Registered: 12-2003
Paul, working with all metal is tricky. You're gonna need a bunch of isolation points.

GlassWolf, that indeed is a nice looking rack. Did you think of using isolation points in your design? I made a crude rack about 15 years ago using splitface concrete blocks 8x8x16 45lbs each and 3/4" plywood for the shelves. Used faux granite for the shelves and spray-painted the conc. blocks flat white. Now I'm designing and building monitor speaker stands using 8x8x8 conc. blocks and plywood for the base and top. I sculpted the conc. blocks to taper in at the top. I just finished plastering them today. Finished, each stand will weigh a hefty 60lbs. +/-.Total cost for stands should come in under $50.

I'll try and post some pics later.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Homedesign

Post Number: 45
Registered: 01-2004
Earth calling.
You guys are so into vibration control to the point of obsurdity. You must know that.

OK, maybe placing equipment on some kind of vibration isolation has some etherial affect, but so does the degree of humidity affect the sonic quality in the room.

That is, less moisture in the air will make your system/room sound a little differently than say on a rainy day. That probably has more affect than isolating components.

You all would accomplish more by sound proofing the room from external noise (even by closeing the door to the kitchen for the refrigerator noise). And WAY more by imporving the accuracy and transparency of your speakers, or decreasing the distortion of the amp, than even if you put the components on the kitchen table, or on a carpteted floor.

The cable connoisseurs are off the deep end too. Its not scientific, or even artistic. Its the 'psycho-acoustic' phenomenon. Like every time you spend a few dollars on some tweak or other and get all happy because your sytem sounds better.

If you doubt what I say, put any of these things to a blind test. But you already know the outcome, right? Ignoring that, and proceeding anyway, is giving way to the 'psycho-acoustic' phenomenon. Its pretense. Imagination. Making a game of it.

A.Wiseman
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 1057
Registered: 12-2003
I needed a rack large enough to hold my components and I refuse to pay the absurd amounts of money that companies like BDI or Bell'O charge for their component racks.

My KEF Reference speakers came with their spikes.

I have a full wood shop downstairs, so I built my own rack for everything.
I really don't think that was off the deep end, and I've had most of the people who've seen the rack first-hand ask me to sell them one.

Just because I chose not to go with concrete blocks and plywood for the "college dorm look" doesn't mean I'm nuts for spending a winter building the custom rack. It also goes much more nicely with the rest of my room, which includes laminate floors, and maple trimwork, as well as an oak computer desk (none of that crap particle board.)
I like real woods, so I try to use them whenever possible.

plus the most important factor of all...

the chicks dig it.
=D
 

Bronze Member
Username: Homedesign

Post Number: 46
Registered: 01-2004
[GlassWolf]
Yours is the most sound reasoning behind a rack design I have heard.

The guys who use concrete, or sand filled steel tube frame, etc. allegedly for vibration isolation for their components, where often even the rack is spiked! to the floor in addition to shelves made of special materials, and jointed to the rack with some isolation technology or other, is what I mean by 'off the deep end'.

Those same guys probably spend a forune on cables: oblivious that its just a wire connecting two components, but feeling since they spent so much they now have have the ultimate sound.

The chicks will not only not be impressed with a $500 cable, or component isolation technology, but will just think its wierd.

It accomplishes little if anything at all. Whereas some creative aesthetics will at least enhanse the listening environment, and perhaps even impress them a little.
 

jazzycat
Unregistered guest
WOW! GlassWolf, that unit ROCKS! It's BEAUTIFUL!
 

New member
Username: Zviln

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-05
would like some advice on building a audio rack for my home system. Glasswolf's audio rack is tight.
 

New member
Username: Zviln

Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-05
GlassWolf,

I really like what you have done with that rack and I was wondering if you could take some more pictures of the back and sides because I am thinking about also building one. I have a Bello AR-880 and it's a great rack but it's a swept back rack. I now would like a straight up rack.
 

Unregistered guest
Hi Ho: Does anyone have experience trying to isolate a basement woodshop from the rest of the house. I need to quiet things down to the point that others (especially upstairs) are not unduly annoyed. The projection A/V theater is adjacent to the shop, but the two are not normally used at the same time. I am considering cellulose or urethane foam insulation. Does the performance of the latter justify its expense? What else should I do?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Monstercable

Post Number: 23
Registered: Jun-07
where are these guys come from?
 

New member
Username: Kamilucky

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-11
I think the world's best speaker designers has a web site for DIY speakers. His Phoenix system, which he says is comparable to his $28k manufactured system, suggests either hanging the main panels with rope from the ceiling, or using a PVC pipe and flange to a MDF base for stands.
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