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New member Username: SuperjeepPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-11 | what is the best amp and sub to use for rock music? I want a well balanced system that sounds good. not too much bass, but enough to feel it. I have a 12 enclosure that I would like to use because i got it for free. Im also a huge fosgate fan! so are the fosgates good for rock music? |
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Silver Member Username: Lord_huggingtonOntario Canada Post Number: 422 Registered: Oct-10 | Subjective, go audition some subs. Is the box sealed or ported? What's your budget? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 141 Registered: May-09 | SURE fosgates are good for rock music!! You will need to go backwards with the sub since you usually pick the proper enclosure for your favorite sub. To give you an idea: Rap: deep powerful bass. (high power rating) Rock bass to midbass Early classical music: midbass (no sub needed only midbass drivers) |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1258 Registered: Jun-06 | If you are wanting to look into Rockford Fosgate, then what I would suggest for a rock setup would be: Rockford Fosgate P2D4-10: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34858_Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-10-P2D410.html Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9852_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P300-1.html Overall, your looking at a little over $200 for an entry level system. You are going to want to custom make a Sealed Enclosure around 0.75 Cu ft (Internal Volume) if you are looking for accurate hitting Bass or a Ported Enclosure at 1.40 Cu ft (Internal Volume) tuned at 34 Hz if you want it to get a little loud. Here is another suggestion that I would personally go with: JL Audio 12W0v3-4: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39825_JL-Audio-12W0v3-4.html Rockford Fosgate PRIME R500-1: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17368_Rockford-Fosgate-PRIME-R500-1.html This system will run you a little more, but it will perform better than what I suggested above. |
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Silver Member Username: PerfectcircleNaptown, Indy Post Number: 297 Registered: Feb-10 | Look around for a single 10" or 12". there are hundreds of choices. a lot of hardcore car audio people are not big on fosgate. i like rf (grew up with rf as a teenager in the mid 90's) i use a couple p2 12's when i'm in between big builds. look at the afore mentioned p2 10 or 12 dual 4. and a small 300 watt mono amp that puts out full power at 2 ohm. wire the sub to 2 ohm in a spec sealed box. should be what you're looking for. won't be hard for your stock electric to keep up with only a few hundred watts. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 283 Registered: May-09 | Most people don't go with Rockford Fosgate 1000W and up simply because it becomes too expensive not because is bad sounding or outdated, over 1000W Hifonics, Mbquart, make really affordable amps. Another things to consider is RF is very reliable and underrated. Yes there are other options to be suggested so go ahead. |
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Silver Member Username: Dloco486Post Number: 188 Registered: Apr-11 | old fosgate subs from the 90's were better than the fosgate subs they got now though. rf sold to a bigger company an are now mass produced still good but not as good as they were back in tha 90's. |
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Gold Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 1275 Registered: Jul-09 | Whats your total budget for everything? What kind of info can you give us about that box? |
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Gold Member Username: SomedonniedudeIllinois Braaap MX Post Number: 3205 Registered: May-07 | ^what art said. We need specs on that box. You can buy the best woofer there is around, but if it's not in a good box (properly built specs) it's worthless. also do you have an amp yet? Measure the box height, length, and width. Measure the thickness of the wood. If it has a square port measure the height, width and internal length. It's round measure the diameter and length as well. If you could also add a few pictures of the box as well. Measure down to a 1/8 of an inch so it's accurate and of course post up the measurements for us to see lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 290 Registered: May-09 | Guess Garret is gone now. |
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Silver Member Username: PerfectcircleNaptown, Indy Post Number: 299 Registered: Feb-10 | Very true Joe, their punch subs are decent and can be had for cheap. but their t2 subs are way over priced. even on ebay they're north of 400 bucks. for that price, that opens up a slew of options. and the t2s are weaker subs compared to what you can get from online sub builders for that price. I had and actually still have a pair of 18" punch subs circa 1994 that i used in my s-10 extended cab in high school. 250 rms and only 4 cubes per required. ohhh the good old days. |
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Gold Member Username: Extrmndor3Http://illuzonemu.serv..., ^^^Sick Game Post Number: 8646 Registered: Feb-06 | GO WITH THE LIGHTEST SUBS U CAN GET AND PUT IT IN A SEALED.. BOX try to find poly cones or something that is really light.. stay away from paper pressed pulp cones like on the underground ones.. like ascendant or fi or even audioques.. those are for deep bass.. u need fast kicks.. something light that can catch up those fast tones.. something light with around 500rms-300 rms for each sub should be plenty and yes in a sealed.. but u can go ported. but they sound quality will be sacrified currenctly i have some jl audio w6 but their kinda expensive.. their cones are the w cones.. wich are made in like a w desing.. and their only attached to the voice coil by the two lowest points of the W wich makes them really light... any jl audio even the w3 are really good.. even the 0 ones i recomend.. if you want something louder.. u can try looking up the alpinte type rs;; will be way louder but theyll sacrifice sound quality.. the alpine type rs have aluminum cones wich are pretty lightweight.. |
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Gold Member Username: Extrmndor3Http://illuzonemu.serv..., ^^^Sick Game Post Number: 8647 Registered: Feb-06 | http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7255_JL-Audio-12W3v3-4.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5347_JL-Audio-12W1v2-4.html oops the type r are pulp pressed with aluminum finish sorry fyi i have a like new 500/1 jl audio amp.. 500 rms true clean sounding power.. that drives my w6s... im looking for the 1000/1 i want to let it go.. im asking 200 for it |
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Gold Member Username: SomedonniedudeIllinois Braaap MX Post Number: 3206 Registered: May-07 | "try to find poly cones or something that is really light.. stay away from paper pressed pulp cones like on the underground ones" What? Yes more mass will usually add to a lower fs, but saying that woofers with paper cones are only for low notes isn't necessarily true. Tc sounds has aluminum cones and most of their woofers lack 60+hz badly, but really shine in the >30hz range. All the SJA (Atomic, RD, etc) built woofers that I have used have pulp cones and they are all very quick, accurate, and play well into the 60+hz (and higher) area great. |
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Gold Member Username: Extrmndor3Http://illuzonemu.serv..., ^^^Sick Game Post Number: 8648 Registered: Feb-06 | Tc sounds has aluminum cones and most of their woofers lack 60+hz badly, but really shine in the >30hz range. excuse me??? so ur saying the tc sounds aluminun cones lack at +60hz but really shine in the +30hz=>30hz ( > greater than) it doesnt make sense... lol.. u might be trying to say that the tc sounds bad at >60hz tones and shines at <30hz or around 30hz one thing i had to correct you my friend... it all depends on the manufacturer specs.. if A manufacurer decides to go with aluminum cone with a thickness of like 0.1mm and B manufacturer goes with thickness of like 0.2mm.. with that we know that B manufacturer cones are heavier even they use the same cone material.. ANYWAYS..... All the SJA (Atomic, RD, etc) built woofers that I have used have pulp cones and they are all very quick, accurate, and play well into the 60+hz (and higher) area great. ??? dude 60hz+ is alomost in the midbass area.. well really its 80hz.. but more than 60hz is kinda useless for a woofer.. the frequencies that are mainly the target on rock music.. is more in the 40s to the mid 50s... |
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Gold Member Username: SomedonniedudeIllinois Braaap MX Post Number: 3208 Registered: May-07 | Lol i didn't proofread, I may have had a bit to drink haha. but I think you got the point about the <> as everyone who has used a Tc woofer knows how they sound down low. Yes the weight is whatt matters with the cone, and not as much the material (even though I know some ppl that still hate alum cones for whatever reason). I was just getting at you can't say that one should stay away from woofers with pulp cones, and only buy ones with aluminum cones if you want to listen to rock music. I didn't want the OP to get the wrong idea. "??? dude 60hz+ is alomost in the midbass area.. well really its 80hz.. but more than 60hz is kinda useless for a woofer..." I don't have dedicated midbass myself, so i like a woofer that can play with some output at even at 70+hz. It's nice for for a lot of dubstep IMO. In the past I've never really cared about playing anything much above 60hz, but the last box I built was a tiny box for my 15" APX, I did 2.7cf @ 40ish hz? (don't know exact tuning I didn't spec it out exactly, but it's an external 8" pvc pipe) and it has huge range, I actually like it even thought it sound kinda burpy at times with that much port area. |
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Bronze Member Username: John253aAust. Post Number: 62 Registered: May-11 | Everyone and anyone can sugest this and that but it all comes down to what you have already and what you want to spend. You have a 12" sealed box already? 'yes' And you want to use it? 'yes' Now i take it that the budget is tight on this one as a free box is the box being used? So what we need to no before any more sugestions can be made Cuft of box? Deepth of box? Total budget for sub amd amp? Stock elec. System or big3 +? Other speaker size, type and supplied power in wrms? Do you want to use a 1ch d class amp, 2ch ab(for sq), 3/4ch ab, 3ch ab/d or 5ch ab/d? With out some basic info i dont see how anyone here can help beyond, this/that is good, They all may be good subs but may be sound crap in the box you have at current. |
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Gold Member Username: The_image_dynamicSan Diego, California Post Number: 6002 Registered: Dec-06 | I have tried pretty much every combo out there for rock over the years, and the king of all kings is a Fi Q15 in a 2.5 cube sealed box, 1" Trupan with a double baffle. Push it with a solid 1200+ RMS and magic happens. Second would be the IDMAX12 or the RL-S15. |
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Gold Member Username: The_image_dynamicSan Diego, California Post Number: 6003 Registered: Dec-06 | I also want to second what Lil Rob was saying about the crossover point... I rarely use subs in any application over 50 or 60hZ. For rock music at realistic levels in a car, you HAVE to have some mid-bass support down to around 90hZ. The cabin effect takes over and peaks the range between 100hZ down to whatever the resonant frequency of the vehicle is, boosting up that range between 60-120hZ, giving you a fairly flat response through the mid-bass range if you do it correctly, and depending on the car. If you let too much into your sub, say up to 90 or 100hZ, that tubby vocal and instrument sound comes in to play, and ruins everything. The frequencies that certain elements of the mix fall into, are not meant to be played at such exaggerated levels. |