right now im running a whole jl audio setup w3 12's with a alpine headunit. my amp is a 500/1 slash series.
my problem is when i turn on the car the power light on the amp comes on but there is not a bit of sound coming out of the subs i dont know if it is a RCA problem, or if it is a amp problem.. i have checked all of my connections ground, remote, power, speaker wires, from box connection to speakers.. etc.. from headunit to amp.. all of them and still no sound got any ideas
bigchevyman24
Unregistered guest
Posted on
i've had the same problem before. I do not have a jl amp, but a kicker and the power light would come on, but no sound. The problem was the fuse on the power wire. It did not look blown, but it was not working. Make sure you check all your fuses. Also, you might want to change your RCA's and also make sure your cd player setting for the subs is on.
I have the same amp Justin is talkin about and I dont recall even seeing a fuse in it. Im about to run outside and check to see if mine has a fuse. lol
Anonymous
Posted on
It doesn't have a fuse. I think it works off of a breaker.
yeah we started testing with a test light and found the power wire was not puting out anything what was weird was the power light on the amp was blown, i had to upgrade to 4gauge wire from my old wire that i had in there and a 100amp fuse
so if anyone is having this problem.. check the fuse on your power cable that was my problem.. seems though the fuse can be blown but enough power jumps across the space to make the amp's power light turn on.
Not quite. The amp can be designed so the led will lit when the power is applied to the amp. In other words it can be lit either by taking power directly from remote (internal relay excitation) or from internal power excitation (internal relay power). Either way it will only be lit when remote is on. Does this make any sense?
no. you don't make sense. the power LED will only light up on an amp when the remote line is energized to turn on the amplifier. if power and ground are applied with no remote trigger, teh LED will be off. that's how it works.
Ok, but what did I say in opposite from that? What I said was: With remote applied, the led can be fed by 2 ways. 1-)Getting the power from the excitation line of the trigger, inside the amp, on the excitation relay; 2-)getting power from the power line of the excitation relay, inside the amp. Another consideration is that these leds usually take something like 200mA, which in the case of a bad power connection, either on the amp's outside terminals, or on the fuse's, they would fail, like any ordinary 300mA 12-Volt lamp, yes? So, in the second case (the led getting the power from the power line of the inside excitation relay), if there was a bad connection on the outside power line, it would be reflected on the inside excitation relay (power line), not litting the led, yes? So, if with trigger applied and power terminal removed (+), if the led lits, it's fed from the excitation relay line; if the led doesn't lit, it's fed from the power line of the excitation relay. But I agree with you when you say that with trigger removed, the led will never lit! That has nothing to do with what I have tried to say earlier, and I hope this time I have expressed myself correctly, sorry for any misunderstandings! CHEERS!!! TIA!
just confusing decyphering the broken English.. but yours is still better than the pseudo-ebonics I see from some of the text-message junkies and ghetto-wannabes. My ability to read your messages varies with my lack of sleep.
yeah the led came on when the remote put power to the amp, the fuse on the power wire was blown, so the amp was not getting power but was showing the power led on.. becuase the remote was feeding enough to turn the led on.. i had to upgrade to 4gauge power cable, all problems are fixed it had nothing to do with amp problems :-)