Triple 10" box - I would love to have your opinion!
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New member Username: Alias747Post Number: 8 Registered: Apr-05 | I have a choice between 2 boxes for my three 10" subs. I cant decide which one would work better or is made better. I will post the links so just pop in your opinion and that would be great. THANKS!! http://www.fortune3.com/comp75190/?pagesuffix=Subwoofer_Enclosures-Triple_10_Com pact_Angled_Box_Subwoofer_Enclosure.html& -This box has just one chamber and will cost about $69 with shipping. It will be easier for me to wire the subs all together with just having the one chamber with no barriers. AND it looks pretty frickin cool. Since this box is 3 cubic feet althogether, will it act like each sub is in a 1 cubic foot space? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50569%26item%3D5770969114 %26 -Box has 3 sealed chambers, each 1 cubic foot a piece. On their website this box will only be about $50 with shipping. Cheaper, But I am not sure how to go about wiring the subs together in this box. How do I get through the barriers into the separte chambers to wire them together? |
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Silver Member Username: TheelfkeeperStockbridge, GA USA Post Number: 387 Registered: Feb-05 | the dividers are there to keep one of your subs from blowing, leaving the other 2 to play in more volume then recomended. that can cause overexcursion and damage the sub depending on the sub, wattage and volume. it'll also keep the other two from sounding different. just use a drill with a bit the size of the speaker wire and drill through the dividers. use silicon sealant to seal the holed up if it concerns you, but it won't be enough to cause any problems. sometimes thoes prefab boxex come with wireing terminals on the back too. |
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Bronze Member Username: Virus5877West Lafayette, Indiana USA Post Number: 29 Registered: Apr-05 | I would get the second one. having separate chambers for your subs allows them to move independently of one another something happens to one. that way, if you blow one sub, you only blow ONE sub, and not all three. plus in a sealed system, you're getting more SQ and less pure SPL, so you want as much control over your subs as possible, in other words: separate chambers. I have a dual 12 box that i made myself that has separate chambers for each sub, and i love the sound that it produces; clean, tight, accurate, and LOUD!  |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 2815 Registered: Nov-04 | Why do you have a need to drill inside the sub box to connnect? You do all your wirings on the sub itself, then use the connectors on the outside. For 3 subs, you should have 3 speaker terminals on the back. Use them to connect the 3 together for parallel or in series. |
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New member Username: Alias747Post Number: 10 Registered: Apr-05 | Thanks for the replies. Cyrus, so basically having subs in a sealed box makes them have better SQ and tighter response? And a ported box would be more for high SPL? I don't think I really have the option to get a vented/ported triple box anyway, because they are hard to come by. Do you think it would be a problem if I did drill a small hole in the walls to allow the wiring to pass through? |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 11 Registered: Apr-05 | Isaac, I am not sure how many terminal cups it has. But suppose that it does have 3 terminal cups, 1 for each chamber. Can you make a picture of what it would look like to wire that? I was going to wire them in series to make a 2.67 ohm load. Thanks for the help. |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 12 Registered: Apr-05 | Hey Isaac! Can you give a shout back? Thanx dog. |
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Gold Member Username: FishyTamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA Post Number: 1147 Registered: Sep-04 | The best thing about having separate chambers is the extra stiffening the dividers provide. Since those are 5/8" mdf(not 3/4) boxes I'd go with 2nd one. If you have 3 dual 4 ohm subs wire the voice coils in series(3 8 ohm drivers) and the subs in parallel(1 2.67 ohm load). Wiring subs in series is often discouraged. http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html If you have three terminal cups just hook all the positves together and all the negs and then run your amp to one terminal cup. Another option which would look neater and probably be better(less voltage drop) would be to run one set of wires from each terminal cup directly to your amp hooking all the positives to the positive terminal on the amp and the negatives likewise. -Fishy |
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Gold Member Username: FishyTamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA Post Number: 1148 Registered: Sep-04 | Pic: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html#3dvcsp 5th diagram from top -Fishy |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 13 Registered: Apr-05 | Sorry I am kind of a noob, but I don't really understand what you were trying to say Fishy. "If you have 3 dual 4 ohm subs wire the voice coils in series(3 8 ohm drivers) and the subs in parallel(1 2.67 ohm load). Wiring subs in series is often discouraged." What does this mean? Isn't wiring the subs and wiring the voice coils the same thing? Sorry that just kind of confused me. I was going to wire all the subs in series to get 1 terminal cup with an impedance of 2.67 ohms. (Which I got from sounddomain.com wiring guide.) It looks simple enough but now that the walls are going to get in between the subs it is throwing me for a loop. I know you tried to exlplain something to me there but I didn't quite pick it up. Something about wiring the terminal cups together? Sorry about that. If you could draw a diagram it would be nice. "Another option which would look neater and probably be better(less voltage drop) would be to run one set of wires from each terminal cup directly to your amp hooking all the positives to the positive terminal on the amp and the negatives likewise." How would I wire each sub then? What kind of impedence would that create? So basically I shove 3 postives into the positive on the amp and 3 negatives into the negative on the amp? Your help is very much appreciated Fishy. |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 15 Registered: Apr-05 | Fishy or anyone Please help! |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 16 Registered: Apr-05 | Fishy or anyone Please help! |
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cuspid fo life Unregistered guest | get cuspid |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 2824 Registered: Nov-04 | Weissenberger, wire each sub's voice coils in series, that is take one pos and connect it to the other voice coil's neg. Now take the left overs (not used pos and neg) and connect it to the speaker terminal on the box. Now repeat the process for other 2 subs. This will make each speaker terminal 8ohms. Now you can connect all the pos together and all the neg together (the terminals on the outside of the box). Now take the pos and neg and attach it to the amp. Whatever you do, DO NOT drill the separating chambers inside the box. If you follow the instruction, it is not required. |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 17 Registered: Apr-05 | Thank you very much for the reply Isaac. So the final load should be 2.67 ohms, right? I made a diagram to be sure(I am more of a visual person) lol  Let me know if this is right. Thanks man. |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 2828 Registered: Nov-04 | Yes you got it. Now do you see why you don't have to drill the walls inside the box? |
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Bronze Member Username: Alias747Post Number: 18 Registered: Apr-05 | Good call! No drilling for me! Thanks Isaac, you tha dog! |
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