I know some amps like JL's slash series have built in protection circuits and don't require on-board fuses. You just need one at the battery to protect your wiring.
I'm not at all familiar with them, but Audiobahn and Acoustic amps may have the same deal.
Oh and its impossible to find a 1000w rms amp that merely draws 60 amps.
A 100% efficient amp with an unregulated power supply would require 70 amps to produce 1000 watts @ 14.4 volts. Most class D's are about 80% efficient which means theoretically the most power you could produce with merely 60 amps would be a touch under 700 watts @ 14.4 volts.
If 60 amps is a limit that is set in stone a 600w Class D monoblock is what you should be looking for, either that or don't turn the volume up, but like thats not going to happen.
Yeah. Thanks. As i said above....i bought the power acoustik a1800bd which is 1100 rms at 2ohms. So i think ill just replace the fuse at the inline. Where is that fuse? Cuz i looked under the hood and i dont see the fuse. Any help would be great.
If that amp is class D with a regulated power supply, those specs are honest, and you're going to be running it at 2 ohms then it'll probably draw a lil over 100 amps at max power @ 12 volts. An 80 amp fuse might be pushin it. Regardless, the inline fuse at the battery is there to protect your wiring, not the amp. If you've got 4 gauge running straight to the amp just use a 100 amp fuse. If it blows go with a 150.
If you've got less than 4 gauge I'd use the 80 amp and start thinking about upgrading your power and grounds to at least 4, especialy if you start blowing fuses.
Oh, and the inline fuse should be located as close to the pos terminal of the battery as possible, within reason of course. Less than 18" is a good rule of thumb.
