|
Bronze Member Username: HittmannAdelaide, South Australia Australia Post Number: 27 Registered: Mar-05 | i asked this question the other day but the answer that i received was not what i asked so i need to ask again. Should I amp up my 120w clarion 4" 2 ways or should I leave them just through the HU and get a couple of 6x9's for the rear and run them off the amp. I have a 600w rms US Audio amp 2ch are bridged for the sub. Will this amp blow the 4" speakers??? I am not interested in removing the 4" speakers and getting component speakers, which is the answer i got last time. |
|
Silver Member Username: Davids2004Houston, TX USA Post Number: 759 Registered: Jun-04 | If you have a car I would just amp the speakers up front and not worry about rear speakers. |
|
Silver Member Username: FishyTamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA Post Number: 833 Registered: Sep-04 | I'd get a good 2 ohm stable 2 channel amp and power both sets. It'll be nice and loud, but with that much stereo comin from the rear your imaging is gonna be crap. The best solution really is to get a good set of components up front. 4" drivers are pretty wimpy in the midbass department. -Fishy |
|
Silver Member Username: FishyTamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA Post Number: 834 Registered: Sep-04 | If your h/u has a built in crossover you could also get a good 4 channel amp(w/ xovers) and a set of 6 1/2 mid bass drivers for the rear. Set the high pass on your h/u at around 80 Hz. Run your 4" drivers using the amps highpass at around 200-300 Hz and the 6 1/2's mono(bridged to 2 8 ohm drivers in parallel or 2 4 ohm drivers in series) with a bandpass signal(use the amp's lowpass @ about 200-300 Hz). Its a lil more complicated of a setup and good front components would still be a lot better, but your imaging will be much superior w/o full stereo output coming from the rear. If your main concern is cutting up your car then the 6 1/2"/4 channel rear thing is a good idea. If your worried about cost then front components is the way to go. -Fishy |
|
New member Username: La2lvtomPost Number: 4 Registered: Mar-05 | From the way your post reads it sounds like your US Audio amp is a 4 channel amp with 2 channels being used in a bridged mode for the sub and 2 remaining channels. If this is the case then I see the problem being with your clarion 4's, they may say 120 watts rms but trust me they wont handle that. As much as you don't want to hear it, lose the clarion 4's. If you want to keep a 4 up front get a better one like the Eclipse Point Source 4's or another high quality manufacturer's 4" driver and keep the factory rear speakers or maybe upgrade to an entry level replacement and run the front and rear off the remaining channels of the amp. You dont want to run just the rears off an amp 'cause like everyone is telling you your imaging will be awful. Hope this helps and post if the amp is not a 4 channel but a 2 channel |
|
Bronze Member Username: HittmannAdelaide, South Australia Australia Post Number: 29 Registered: Mar-05 | yes the amp is 4ch. Ok when I save up enough money this is what I'm gonna do. I don't really want to fuss all too much cos my car is a 89 toyota camry. If anyone has ever seen a 89 Camry they huge pockets in each door trim for putting stuff. I'll either cut these off and fibre glass up a new part, or create something around what is already there, which would be the best option?? |
|
New member Username: La2lvtomPost Number: 6 Registered: Mar-05 | You would be making a wise decision going with the larger speaker in the door, but understand that a fiberglass panel on the door will be a costly endeavor. Definately remove the pocket and have a panel built out of 1/2 inch mdf (it will be heavier than the fiberglass but the camry door is pretty solid) and go 6 1/2 - tweet component as far forward on the door as possible (for best imaging). With the money you save you could have the door recovered so the enclosure will look factory. Hopefully this is the information you were looking for. Good luck, Tom. p.s. If this is the way you are going to go, run just the component set off the 2 channels of the amp and run the factory by-9's off the rear output of your deck and cap them off with a 47 farad cap (a little blue "bass blocker/filter) |
|
Silver Member Username: FishyTamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA Post Number: 839 Registered: Sep-04 | Yep, thats your best bet although a 47 farad cap might be a touch large, lol. For h/u power a couple 35v+ non-polarized 470 microfarad caps(one on ea 6x9, 4 ohm) would be a better choice and would give you a 6 dB/octave rolloff at about 85 Hz. from here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross4ohm.asp wiring: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp#hp -Fishy |
|
New member Username: La2lvtomPost Number: 7 Registered: Mar-05 | I'm a dink, you're right, a 47 microfarad cap. It's been a long time since I was a salesman. I'll just say whoopsies and that makes it all better |
|
og Unregistered guest | no u will blow the hell out of those speakers |