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Bronze Member Username: KarthalinTacoma, WA USA Post Number: 72 Registered: Dec-04 | I am gonna build my enclosure next week after christmas:D I would like to know if there is such a thing as too much wood glue? I know that filling the entire volume with glue would be too much, but I am not talking that extreme. I plan on making a simple rectangular box to hold 4 10" IDQ subs. The back (opposite the face) will go on last so I can use calk on all the interior seems to make a nice air tight seal (yes, it is a sealed enclosure). Also, should I/could I calk where the sub meets the wood, making the interfereance between the two also as air tight as possible? Or just make sure the screws are really tight when I attach the speakers to the box? |
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Bronze Member Username: Eric77Post Number: 40 Registered: Nov-04 | When you are placing youre sub you want to use weather stripping if anything at all. If your box is carpeted you shouldnt need anything. Even if your box isnt carpeted, if your subs have a rubber piece that wraps around the perimeter and covers the screws then that sould act as a seal. You can use pretty much as much glue as you want for building the box but just have a wet rag handy to clean up the excess. Silicone will work best for sealing your box however, be sure to wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry before putting your subs in. The fumes from the silicone when drying are toxic and can deteriorate the foam on your sub. www.bcae1.com has some really good information on box building. It will tell you everything you need to know. |
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Bronze Member Username: KarthalinTacoma, WA USA Post Number: 73 Registered: Dec-04 | thanx a lot, I knew about the silicone drying part. I just have a lot of calk laying around. HAHAHA! Get it? Anyway, box will be made about 2 weeks before my subs come since next week is the ONLY time I have to build the thing. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6686 Registered: Dec-03 | use a solid bead of wood glue or liquid nails. no more is needed if you screw the box with 1.5" drywall screws too. use clear silicone caulking to seal the box by reaching through the opening where the subs go. you can run a bead of silicone around where the sub sits too, but allow it to dry before putting the subs into the box. also don't make the box retangular. angle the sub face side or the opposing side. if they are parallel you'll get standing wave cancellation and the box will sound lousy. |
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Bronze Member Username: KarthalinTacoma, WA USA Post Number: 74 Registered: Dec-04 | GlassWolf: Oh really? Damnit, I was hoping to make a square cause its easier. Hehe, o well, I hae two weeks to do it I guess. so i should make the back angle of the box like this: / so box in essence looks like /_|, correct? This will make is sound louder? Awsome man, thanx for the tip! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6712 Registered: Dec-03 | you hit it on the head. trust me, its really easy to do. you just do what I said about add and take away two inches or so at top and bottom. it keeps the volume easy to figure. easy to change cuts for panels too well worth it, also makes the box more stable in the back if its not bolted down more weight at the bottom, larger base |
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Bronze Member Username: KarthalinTacoma, WA USA Post Number: 75 Registered: Dec-04 | Oh it will be bolted down. So I should just add an inch at the bottom and take one off of the top. I can do that. |
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Bronze Member Username: KarthalinTacoma, WA USA Post Number: 76 Registered: Dec-04 | I just read your other post Glass, add two inchs to the bottom and take two off the top. I'll do that then instead. Thanx again for this tip, saved me a world of hurt! |