About to purchase fi sub help please

 

Bronze Member
Username: Wfbass

Stephenville, NL Canada

Post Number: 66
Registered: Sep-08
hey everyone. just got back from my seasonal job. got about 2gs canadian to spend on some upgrades. anyways im lookin for a 60/40 spl/sq sub. a couple guys here told me to get the fi bl. i got a rockford T2000bd. i was lookin on the fi site but cant decide if i should get the bl or btl. the bit of noobness in me tells me to get the btl and run my amp at 1 ohm. yes i got the big 3 and 1/0 wire, all that good stuff. plannin on gettin 2 kinetik batts as well. anyways should i get the bl and run it at 2 ohms or the btl and at 1 ohm? also what do all the options mean on the sub? i know i want the dialy and just a plain dustcap. whats all the others mean and should i get them on either sub i choose to buy? i wanna buy really soon just waitin on u guys good opinions. thanks in advance
 

Gold Member
Username: Surferdude9371

Get loud or go home....

Post Number: 1774
Registered: Mar-07
for the mixture your looking for the bl is the best fit its about 70spl 30 sq where as the btl is all spl
 

Bronze Member
Username: Wfbass

Stephenville, NL Canada

Post Number: 67
Registered: Sep-08
ahhh ok. think the bl is gonna be louder then a re audio mx? i got an optimal box for the mx as well. also can it handle 1500wrms dialy? what options should i add?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 1780
Registered: Apr-07
If you got a loaded BL you'd be fine, but since many RF 2ks are rated to put out between 2500-3000 I would go with the BTL. You will have similar output and not much noticable difference in SQ imo. Your call, it may not be worth the money for similar results.
 

Gold Member
Username: Basssquared

Kansas

Post Number: 2514
Registered: Nov-06
i'd go with the BTL as well
 

Gold Member
Username: Surferdude9371

Get loud or go home....

Post Number: 1775
Registered: Mar-07
if you dw run that much power out of the amp you can always turn the gain down....
 

Gold Member
Username: Redliner

Wilmington, Ma

Post Number: 5044
Registered: Jun-05
Im with troy get the most for your money and the btl would be it if thats the company you want.

dont get a mx there nice and everything but to pricy imo
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1490
Registered: Aug-07
sorry but u said you had all those upgrades like Big3 and batts...but no where did i see a HO Alt, your going to need one of those for that amp
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2822
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

sorry but u said you had all those upgrades like Big3 and batts...but no where did i see a HO Alt, your going to need one of those for that amp



He won't need one if hes getting the right sized batteries.

The BTL at 1 ohm would be your best bet. Just make sure you build the correct enclosure,
 

Bronze Member
Username: Wfbass

Stephenville, NL Canada

Post Number: 68
Registered: Sep-08
yeah got the ho alt. 200 amp. i already got a mx. im thinkin about gettin the xxx or the btl. i can biuld enclosures and tune boxes as well so theres no problems there. gonna be gettin 2 kinetik batts as well, one for the front and the rear. i just want something thats gonna be louder then my current mx setup. 2.1cf3 tuned at 33hz, but still retain some sq. im not stuck on fi or re though if someone thinks that theres a better sub for my needs then please let me know
 

Silver Member
Username: Cozce

St. Louis ILLside, Pronounced: ... U.S.A.

Post Number: 643
Registered: Mar-08
If it must be Fi; get the BTL.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10230
Registered: Jul-06
" He won't need one if hes getting the right sized batteries "



Batteries are not a substitute for alternator, they are not the same thing, they serve a different purpose.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2823
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

Batteries are not a substitute for alternator, they are not the same thing, they serve a different purpose.



No Sh!t.

That wasn't even my point, moron. The point one that there would be no need for a HO alt if he had some battery power.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10233
Registered: Jul-06
Well thats a wrong point.. you still need the alternator if you plan to draw a large amount of current for any extended length of time. Batteries will only help for short bursts.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2826
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

Well thats a wrong point.. you still need the alternator if you plan to draw a large amount of current for any extended length of time. Batteries will only help for short bursts.



Is all you do is spit out stuff that has been told to you?

My point is extremely correct. I know from this thing called EXPERIENCE. Not from what someone that "knew what they were talking about" told me. I've built systems from 2k-4k with a stock alt. Voltage stays at 13.7-14 even at idle on several steady bass songs. Battery power is pretty important. It can take the big amp draw while your stock alt recharges it.

Please, if you have any other "parrot" comments, keep them to yourself to me.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10235
Registered: Jul-06
I don't like to brag but I've got more knowledge of electrical devices than most people on this forum with a few certain exceptions.

So no what I say does not come from anyone else.

The laws of electricity are really not that hard to understand and I don't know why some people have such a problem with it. Lets say you have a constant average draw of 150 amps, and a supply of 90 amps from the alternator, with a battery (how big is irrelevant) in the circuit. Simple math tells you you're drawing more than you're supplying. Additional current to make up the difference is drawn from the battery and voltage drops as that happens.

Now where the size of the battery comes in. If you have a bank of five 2000 amp batteries, you can draw a lot more current before voltage drops to a critical level than if you had one 750 amp stock battery. But in either case you will eventually run out of reserve in the batteries, and if the alternator can't supply enough current you're SOL.

It is not a matter of if but when. Adding battery power delays the symptoms but doesn't solve the problem.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1493
Registered: Aug-07
so i could theoretically run 2krms on my stock 90amp alt if i had a good battery bank??? but wont that cost more than just gettin a ho alt?


im not tryin to instigate anything, its just a real question that i have. I want to run ~1500 rms to subs and 4-500 rms on my front stage but a lil weary about adding a HO alt.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10239
Registered: Jul-06
Some people do just that, spend more on batteries than a HO alt would have cost to do it right. Which I do not understand. Not only is the problem not really fixed but you have all that extra weight too.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1496
Registered: Aug-07
so if im playing my system with 2krms on a stock alt and maybe 2 big batts when will the alt have enough time to recharge the batts? or will i have to turn down my music for a while so that they can get the voltage up?

are these questions legit or am i just not understanding...
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2829
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

Lets say you have a constant average draw of 150 amps



What you are failing to put into the equation is that music is not constant bass. So where will be no constant 150average draw.


quote:

I don't like to brag but I've got more knowledge of electrical devices than most people on this forum with a few certain exceptions.



You haven't proved it a bit...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10242
Registered: Jul-06
To you and many others I really don't care what I have proved




And I certainly did account for the fact that the current draw is not constant. Say you've got a big amplifier that can draw 300 amps. Playing music a reasonable assumption is you could be drawing 150 amps average.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2832
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

To you and many others I really don't care what I have proved



Cool. Then don't brag about it.


quote:

Say you've got a big amplifier that can draw 300 amps. Playing music a reasonable assumption is you could be drawing 150 amps average.



The argument wasn't even about that.
It was about not needing an alt for an extremely efficient 2krms amp.

End of story.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Wfbass

Stephenville, NL Canada

Post Number: 69
Registered: Sep-08
so anyways...what do u guys think about the xxx? gonna be much of an inprovement from my mx? right now im running my mx at 2 ohms as well and would be run the xxx at 1 of coarse
 

Gold Member
Username: Th3pwn3r

I compensate...

Post Number: 9290
Registered: Jul-06
M.S. is just a silly scrub. Also, like mentioned music is not a constant and who says you have to play full blast all day long? You can turn the s hit down for an hour or so and let your alternator recharge your batteries. You don't have to drive around town all day long playing your music as loud as possible.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10246
Registered: Jul-06
Haha how many people want to turn their volume down to let their betteries recharge. Lame....
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2834
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

Haha how many people want to turn their volume down to let their betteries recharge. Lame...



You don't have to turn it down to recharge. If you have the correct battery, it will recharge while playing.

Rob said it perfectly, just a scrub.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1499
Registered: Aug-07
so how big of a battery would i need to run 2krms total? would replacing just the stock battery be good enough or how about just gettin another battery for the back?

sorry to thread jack you wayne felix but i think some of my questions could help the both of us.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2835
Registered: Mar-07
A kinetik 2000 or so would work perfect. I would just put it in parallel with your front battery.

I used to run 2k @ .35 ohms daily with no voltage problems at all with a kinetic 2400. I'm about to put 2k @ .5 ohms in a truck, and his extra battery is going to be a kinetik 1800.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Wfbass

Stephenville, NL Canada

Post Number: 70
Registered: Sep-08
no prob abarca, i wondering the same thing. does it matter if ur battery in the front is the same or wha? i thought having 2 different batteries does something. like they drain off each other or something? also i think im gonna go with the xxx unless someone has something to say about it
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10253
Registered: Jul-06
I would like to see this magical battery that recharges without decreasing current demand or increasing supply.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2838
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

I would like to see this magical battery that recharges without decreasing current demand or increasing supply.



You really don't understand the concept do you? It's like explaining it to a 5 year old to you.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10257
Registered: Jul-06
Haha I inderstand electricity just fine... it appears that can't be said for everyone.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2842
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

Most people don't disconnect power to the electrical system when doing something as simple as connecting RCAs. I don't even.



It seems as if you don't.

I believe you can run 2k on a stock alt with a good extra battery from experience.

You believe you have to have a HO alt when running 2k because someone told you that.

That is pretty much the argument. I see that it is going nowhere with you, and I understand that some people can't comprehend some things, but it'll be alright :-)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Christopherrm

Post Number: 57
Registered: Nov-05
Its a moot argument because simple facts about electrical systems have already indicated you are wrong. When the car is running the source of current draw is the alternator which is supplying power to all the electronics and recharging the battery. You can't throw batteries at a problem related to current demand and hope its not hurting your car charging system.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10261
Registered: Jul-06
" You believe you have to have a HO alt when running 2k because someone told you that. "

You really can't get anything right at all. I know what I have learned about electronics. As far as it relates to car audio I have proven it to myself by experimenting. I seem to remember a canaan post in another thread about how your system works b/c you don't play it full tilt... now that would certainly explain some things. I would want an electrical system to handle anything, any music, any volume, for any time. And I recommend to people the equipment they need to do just that.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2843
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

You really can't get anything right at all.



You have posted all the fail in this thread so far, and many others.


quote:

I seem to remember a canaan post in another thread about how your system works b/c you don't play it full tilt..



Wrong. I do play mine at full tilt for long drives and such, voltage holds up perfectly.


quote:

I would want an electrical system to handle anything, any music, any volume, for any time.



Mine does. Along with many other 2k+ systems I have installed with only an extra battery.


quote:

And I recommend to people the equipment they need to do just that.



As do I.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10266
Registered: Jul-06
What I really wish is I could play with some of these systems. If they have stock alts like you say, with the right CD I am certain I could make the alternator or amplifier fail under stress.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audible Insanity]-

Post Number: 2846
Registered: Mar-07

quote:

What I really wish is I could play with some of these systems. If they have stock alts like you say, with the right CD I am certain I could make the alternator or amplifier fail under stress.



Cool.

Agree to disagree, bro.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10269
Registered: Jul-06
I guess we will have to.
 

New member
Username: Ridicbass07060

Nj

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
i read on here i think that fi was a bad build quality. (tensil slap) i have been looking at the mx by RE audio and would go with that over an fi sub. just my opinion and what i would do if i were you after reading these forums
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10273
Registered: Jul-06
Fi makes very good quality speakers. Only the early version had issues none of the current ones do.

I run two Q 10" and they are great SQ subs.
 

New member
Username: Ridicbass07060

Nj

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
oh ok... yea i heard good things about fi. a lot of my friends talk about fi and my onw friend has a pair of ssd's and they get really loud. thanks for clearing that up for me and the OP m.s.
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