I was wondoring what amp I should get. I was thinking http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=mahk798&store=&catid=8048 that way I can run them to their full potential. I also heard though that when the infinity 1242's are run hard that the speaker wire detaches from the sub, anyone hear of this? If so, what would you do to prevent this from happening?
yaman that amp is prob around 300 to 400 rms and if your infinities are around 150 to 200rms that amp prob be fine. dont overpower infinity they will most likely blow they are more of an SQ sub not SPL so they prob wernt made to take a whole lot of power but i suggest geting a monoblock for subs http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14927 that amp is great a bit more money but highly worth it
Well, I have 2 infinty 1242's , and that's why I was going to have it setup to run a sub per channel. I would also like to keep the price below the $200 level for an amp. Which is why I liked that MA audio amp, I can run up to 400 wrms per channel, and I can find it for only 175 shipped.
never want to run them at max power, run around rms or just above, and if you want to keep the tinsel lead from breaking, watch the power and contol finger on volume....MA Audio was terrible for their VOICE COils...
So, would you say don't get MA Audio then? Because I mis-read the amp, and it's 300 wrms at 2 ohms which is the same as my subs, the 400 watts was at 1 ohm. I thought I read somewhere that you can replace the speaker wire on the sub so it won't break from the sub when you push them. Any one have any recomendations on an amplifier, and a replacement wire for the subs so the wire doesn't break from the sub. I don't want to spend over 200 dollars for the amp though. And I also need a stereo and box. Any recomendations on either of those?
Where can I find how many volts a amp is running at? I've been searching a little bit and I can't find anything about that. And I don't want an amp that will run more wrms than my subs. 300 wrms I think is the perfact number, which is what the MA audio amp is rated at. The amp is 160 plus 15 dollars shipping.
the amp will run at what ever your voltage system is in car. the rated voltage is what they test and rated at, alot are tested and rated at more then a normal cars voltage. the Ma i doubt does that at normal car voltage, so less then the 300w rms.
Infinity subs burn tinsel leads because people run them with ther amp clipping. They r easy to fix just make sure to watch that u dont melt any of the plastic holdin the terminals in the process. U should send back the 1242w's and get some 1240w's and power them with a Memphis prd1000.IMO
Also when tinsel leads go bad they dont always come apart. The Infinity 1230w's that I had this problem with, the sub stopped working so I took I out of the box with it still connected and music playin, wiggled the tinsel lead a bit and it worked. So dont expect it to come apart. The 1230w was easy to re solder the tinsels, but the new models(1240w and up) r a bit harder. Alot more plastic to bump with the soldering iron and a tighter space to work with. I had a buddy buy one and used an Infinty amp with the gain jacked all the way up and was clippin like crazy. Fryed the tinsels in less than 4 months. I re soldered and set his gains properly and its still bumpin strong. If u power these 50wrms to 100wrms over just make sure u have the gain set correct and u should have no problems.
I forgot to mention, The Infinity 1230w im usin in the video https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/231548.html is from this guy that was throwin it out because he thought it was toast, so I took it and re soldered the tinsels and look at it, not bad for around 290wrms. I would definitly use an amp with a bit higher rms.
Well, taking my subs back and getting the single voice coils is easier said than done because I bought them from circuit city at christmas time for 100 buck.(It was the buy one get one free deal), and they no longer carry infinity.
So your saying that I can just solder the wire back together and it will work fine, sweetness.
The car I'm going to put these in is my 91 Beretta.
I can get a CDE-9852 from Alpine for 150 dollars. Would you suggest this radio?
That sux, u should have gotten the warranty with those subs. I did when I got my 1220w's, and about every 8months I connected them to a wall socket brought them back to Circuit Shity and got new ones. So ive had the 1220s, 1230s, 1240s, all for the price of the first set I bought. I dont really like the new models 1240s and 1250s, 1230w's r the best of the ref. series IMO. Ive got an idea, u sell your 1242s to a buddy for $200 and I will sell u my 2 brand new, never been bumped 1230w's for $200+ shipping. That way u get better subs and u can run them in parallel to get 2ohm load.
Alpine is in the top 5 in HU's. Get either the Alpine or a Pioneer. Both r great budget HU's.
If u decide to get the Memphis prd1000 u will be able to upgrade in the future. U could bump one Infinity ref. sub at 4ohm 300wrms, or two Infinity ref. sub at 2ohm 600wrms. And when u r ready to upgrade just buy 2 Infinity 12d VQ's and another prd1000 run them each at 2ohm 600wrms. I have a prd1000 that normally powers a 12d VQ at 2ohm, but I sold the 12d VQ to a friend that wanted it and put that 1230w in for now.