Some people think you need a 4000 watt system just to be heard from a distance. I am here to tell you this is not true.Systems with large amounts of high currents can damage your cars charging system in no time if you don't have the correct equipment to support it. For example, if you have a system with more than 1000 watts max output, you should consider getting a capacitor and/or a powercap. I have 2 rockford fosgate 12" stage 2 subs powered by a 600 watt amp, and they hit like a mutha! Some dude ran up to me and asked if I had a few 15s in my trunk or something. He didn't believe me, so of course I showed him my setup. I anyone needs any help setting up an amp or wiring anything dealing with car audio, just ask.
Anonymous
Posted on
i think we all here already have knowledge of what you said
hes just trying to help out and no not everyone here knows that , thats why they come here so they can learn
Anonymous
Posted on
wow that was the dumbest comment ive ever heard that was right up there with the dumbest things ever said im pretty sure that everyone knows about that and buddy you need a ho alt also not justa cap wat did u think we did talk on this site about everythiung and anything but car audio you cant just walk in here and talk like your king sh&t you could of said something better than that to start off
Some of what he said is true you dont need 4000 watts to he heard there are plenty of people that have 200 watts going to 1 atlas 15 that are being heard for sure. I dont agree with your whole cap belief but each will learn at their own pace. Welcome to the site man!
i think it also depends on the car. cuz my car keeps most all the sound inside, can't hear me comming at all on the outside(with windows up of course), but inside is loud as hell. systems in profile. friend has 3 alpine type e 10's on a JL 500/1 and you can hear him comming from a long ways even with the windows up. he drives a sunfire, i drive an accord. i do agree with the box statements though, that makes a big difference.
Mr. Greene, I have no problem with people providing helpful information - but when it's incorrect, or at least misleading that should be pointed out.
You mentioned the word "max" with power - not a good idea - max power is not a defined term in car audio and is of little use when talking about the power of an amp or power handling of a speaker.
Secondly, if there is any evidence of a struggling charging system the cheapest and simplest modification would be to upgrade the stock wiring from alt to batt, and batt to chassis. If that isn't enough the alternator is the next logical step. Batteries are only a critical upgrade if the system is used a lot with the car off, b/c with the engine running the alternator should carry the load. Caps are really not very helpful to the elecrical system. They can, in some cases reduce headlight dimming, but that does not help the alternator, as it is the alternator that has to charge the capacitor.
FWIW - I'm running a 1200w rms system - a stock 110A alt, a 6 year old Wal-Mart battery, and the only electrical modification I've made is an 8 ga wire from the alternator ouput to the battery (+). My voltage drop is almost immeasurable.