Dry Cell Batteries?


Unregistered guest
Hi, I recently blew my new amp! Every dealer I talked to said that it would be good to get another battery. BUT they forgot to mention that you can blow your amp if you don't! Anyways I have a MTX T9512-44 sub powered at 2 ohms by a MTX TA81001 amp (getting fixed). I also fun a clarion 4 channel amp for my speakers and a 2 channel amp for 2 extra speakers. Anyways to the point.

I am getting a new HO alternator I think its a 120 amp one (highest for my car which is crap - a 1990 plymouth acclaim) anyways. I was told to run my 0 guage wire straight for the alternator but to have a dry cell battery in the back. Any recommendations on what type to get...I live in canada so dont forget it gets cold up here. I don't want to spend too much more than $200 on the battery. Also how do I hook it the wire and the battery up to my alternator? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 266
Registered: Aug-05
The only battery that is going to be of any use to you an still cost under 200 is going to be a deep cycle yellowtop battery an you are also going to need a isolator the big 3 for the alternator is going with larger wire for the engine to chassis ground an alternator to battery wire an battery to chassis ground an the alternator to battery wire is going to require an inline fuse, since your alt is only 120 it should be ok to use 2 gauge wire for all the wire upgrades but go larger if you want ..


Bronze Member
Username: Gezyon

Havelock, NC United States

Post Number: 24
Registered: Nov-05
If it was me in your situation, I would do a few things:

1st I would upgrade the alternator like you are doing.
2nd I would upgrade all the wiring under the hood, I would put 1-0 gauge to the alternator from the original battery and to grounds, and then run what ever you want back to all the amps.
3rd I would have get a Yellow Top Optimum battery or a Exide Deep Cycle battery for under the hood and if you plan on putting an extra one in I would use the same one you put under the hood in the car. You do not HAVE to have a isolator, you can run both in line in parallel and be fine.

Hope this helps....

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 272
Registered: Aug-05
if you dont use an isolator you will always have to have your car running or else you will kill both the batterys where as with the isolator you will only kill the battery in the trunk

Silver Member
Username: Fandim

Reno, Nevada United State...

Post Number: 474
Registered: Jun-05
I have two yellow tops, unisolated. Works very nice.. Running a 0 gauge back for power, and a 0 gauge back for the ground, as well, though. That's pretty important if you're running a 2nd battery, as the chasis of most modern vehicles will only act as a 4 or so gauge ground..

Reason I run two batteries, isnt so I can play my radio with the car off, though.. It's just nice to have the extra juice when you need it, and helps prevent clipping your amplifiers due to lack of power available.. (Pulling 4kw RMS, 200 amp alternator).

If you do get an isolator, you're probably going to want a solenoid type (basically a relay), as this is the method which dosnt cause voltage loss.

If you're going to go the unisolated route, though, you should definately be using two brand new batteries, of the same type. Or else, they'll discharge each other, by constantly trying to charge the minute differences in voltage between them..
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