Glass I need Help

 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 457
Registered: May-04
I finally got everything for my stereo today and after i had the amp hooked up i tested it on my subs to make sure that it worked. It worked and sounded fine. So then I unhooked everything from the amp and put my subs in my trunk because the box has to go in first to get in to fit in there. So then i hooked everything back up and when I put the fuse back in at the battery it sparked a bit but this has happend with other systems i've hooked up so i didn't think much of it. Go back to look at my amp to make sure everything is ready to go and the nprotection light is off. If tried everything that was in the trouble shooting manual and nothing worked. Could I have fried my amp already? ?I bought it from crutchfield and I still have the 30 day return so I'm sure I could get it replaced. Thanks
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6913
Registered: Dec-03
did you have the speaker wires connected to the box when you replaced the fuse? they weren't touching were they? (the speaker wires pos and neg)

did the fuse blow? did you replace it after it sparked?

does the amp come on at all?

 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 458
Registered: May-04
The speaker wires were connected to the box but they were not touching each other. The fuse isn't blown by the batterey and niether are any of the fuses on the amp. No I did not replace the battery fuse after it sparked. The amp no longer turns on. It just goes straight into protection mode.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6942
Registered: Dec-03
the amp is fried.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 459
Registered: May-04
ok. Any idea why that might of happend. Thanks for the help Glass
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6961
Registered: Dec-03
sounds like there was a short somewhere when you reconnected the amp.
also keep in mind that amplifier power supplies have huge electrolytic capacitors inside. (not like stiffening caps, but still pretty big) and they hold a charge.
When you disconnect an amplifier after having it powered up, if the main power line and ground touch, you can short out the amplifier just from the charge held in capacitance. That's something people often learn the hard way.
In any event, jsut send it back to ocrutchfield and tell them it was DOA.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 460
Registered: May-04
I've got a new amp on the way. Hopefully it works. Thanks for your help on this. I went up to the local stereo shop last night and was talking with a sales guy yesterday and we got on the subject of the Ecplipse Titanium subs. He was telling me about a guy that bought one of the 18's. The guy built a box for it and then threw his sub in there before letting the silicone dry. Well I guess he was playing it and he kept turning it up a little bit louder and a little bit louder and then it just went boom very loud. I guess it scarred the sh*t out of the guy. Well anyway he opens his trunk and his cone had inverted itself. Apparently it sparked somewhere inside the box and the fumes exploded causing the sub cone to push out. It was still attached to the surround though. Kind of a neat story.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 6993
Registered: Dec-03
story indeed. the cone actually is titanium. I doubt it'd pop out that way before the rubber surround gave out. also silicone fumes aren't flammable as far as I'm aware. Beyond that, what would possibly spark inside of a box? Unless it was static from something, I can't really think of any reason for that to happen either.


anyway the Ti 18" is a great sub, stories aside. That thing can move some serious air.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 462
Registered: May-04
He said the surround was still attached. I thought that was pretty cool. I was telling him to check out adire audio and see if the owner would ever consider being a dealer. He said he used some speakers a while back on a project from Odyson. He said they were pretty good speakers. Have you heard of Car Stereo One?
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 463
Registered: May-04
Well I got my new amp today and still the same problem. It goes straight into protection mode when I turn on my stereo. When I unhooked the rca's they go off. The only thing I changed between when the amp worked the first time is that I added about 5 inches to the pwoer cable because I needed a little more for where i needed to mount my amp. It's wrapped in electrical tape so i dunno if that might make a difference or not. The crutchfield guy told me that the rca's might be bad but why would they go bad in the 15 min time period. Car Stereos is my hobby and this has got me stumpped.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 464
Registered: May-04
it's still messed up. would changing the rca cables do anything?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7027
Registered: Dec-03
if a cable is pinched, this could happen, but most likely the amplifier you got back is still bad.
you could have it tested locally at a shop just to see.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 465
Registered: May-04
ok. The Crutchfield guy told me that if I don't have a strong connection from my groung that this might happend as well becuase the amp might try to groung itself through the rca's. I ran the rca cables again today and nothing was pinched or sliced. I also checked the remote wire and that was fine as well. I might just take the car to Car Stereo One and have them install it. Thanks for all your help so far.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 467
Registered: May-04
My amp works on with other friends systems. Both of them do. Do you have any clue what is wrong with my wiring in my car or why they won't work?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7080
Registered: Dec-03
where and how is it grounded?
did you test the ground point for continuity?
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 468
Registered: May-04
The ground point is the bolt that would hold my spare tire in my trunk. The paint has been scraped away and sanded down and is secured tightly. No I have not tested the ground point for continuity. I still have to get a volt meter.
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 468
Registered: May-04
The ground point is the bolt that would hold my spare tire in my trunk. The paint has been scraped away and sanded down and is secured tightly. No I have not tested the ground point for continuity. I still have to get a volt meter.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7095
Registered: Dec-03
that or in the mean time jsut try another ground point to see if it helps
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 469
Registered: May-04
ok thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Sploosh56

Ohio

Post Number: 475
Registered: May-04
Glass, found out my problem. Just a bad ground connection. My system slams so hard now and sounds good. My panasonic HU has high pass crossovers os i have them set at 135 hz and the subs at 80 hz. Sounds awesome. thanks for all your help
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 7107
Registered: Dec-03
glad ya got it all worked out.
bad grounds are the headache cause of most peoples' problems. You'd be surprised how easily and often that happens.
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