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| I am looking for a reciever with component video switching for around $400. I don't have a large room so I think a 5.1 would be the best. Any suggetions would be appreciated. Thanks. |
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rw1302 | Kenwood VR509 or VR510. Both have 5 video inputs, Dolby pro logic 2, Dolby 5.1, DTS, and SRS Circle surround 5.1 for around $400. The VR510 may cost a little more but is THX Certified. |
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Anonymous | Should I Connect The DVD Player Straight To My Video Components Jacks On The T.V. Or To Video Components Into Receiver? And If Connected To Receiver Still Need A Video Cable From DVD To T.V.? |
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Anonymous | you should connect the DVD player to the component in on the receiver and the TV to component out on the receiver. You will use the receiver to switch between video sources. I have my DVD connected to the Component in and my Digital cable connected to the S-video in (video 1) on the receiver. The component out and video out are connected to the TV. You still need to switch the TV between video 1 (s-video 1) and video 2 (component), to receive the correct signal from the receiver, but as you add video sources to the system there are no more cabled that need to be added to the TV (unless you are adding a composite signal, but who uses those any more ;-). ) |
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Mike Hawksbig | be aware that most receivers at that price point do not offer sufficient bandwidth to pass a high definition signal without degradation. |
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Jules | How Sufficient Bandwidth On The Receiver Should Be And Where Does iT Say it? I Have a HARMAN KARDON AVR-520. |
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Phil Krewer | Jules, I use to own a HK avr-520 and I felt that by hooking my DVD directly to the tv with component inputs the picture was better. I would think that this would be true for most receivers in this price range. Another thing to look at in a receiver is whether it can convert video between composit/Svideo to component. |
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Michael Hawksbig | Crutchfield says at least upper twenties for High Definition signals. According to H/Ks website the 520 has 35 MHz of bandwidth for component video. This should be ok, but like phil said, you might be better off connecting directly to the tv. Crutchfield link (component video jack section): http://www.crutchfield.com/infocenter/home/connections_glossary.html |
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Phil Krewer | Great link Michael Phil |
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Vernon M. | Hey gang, I got a prog.scan DVD, a Xbox with the component vid cable breakout, and I just got a HD cable box. I was already swapping cable around back of my RPTV, and was looking into upgrading my receiver, but it couldn't find anything in the $500 range that had 3 component inputs. On the AVS forum some folks discovered this thing..... http://www.zektor.com/home_theater.htm Looks pretty nice, and solves my problems, so I ordered one yesterday. I'll have to drop in here agian in a couple weeks and let you know how it performs. |
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Jules | Guys! Can I Use Bose 301's As Surround Speakers? Or Does it Have To Be A Surround Speaker? Does it Matter? |
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Brian | I have a polk audio subwoofer in the back it has 4 inputs & 4outputs do I connect my speakers there? |
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Phil | Jules, You can certainly use your Bose for Surrounds. |
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Jules | I Have The Same Question Brian Has! |
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Scott | What U Think Bout' BOSE Speakers! |
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| Have a progressive scan dvd surround sound system and an xbox; want to use component connections out of both to my jvc 36". but it only has one set of component inputs. Any suggestions for an inexpensive fix? |
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Anonymous | Component Video Bandwidth The bandwidth available to send component video signals to your receiver. You'll need bandwidth over 10 MHz to pass on progressive-scan video without noticeable softening of the picture. And for HDTV signals, you'll need bandwidth in the upper 20s or higher to avoid noticeable softening of the picture (with most TVs). |
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Karthik | For a sub 400 receiver, try yamaha 5550 (retails at $399). Its a 5.1 receiver with component bandwidth of 30 mhz. But it does NOT switch across video inputs. Also I have tried bose 301s with it, but i don't want to start a bose discussion on this thread. |
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| Does anyone know where I could pick up an external component video switching box for a reasonable price? My receiver doesn't have this capability. Thanks. |
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Warder45 | I've read on multiple Home theater sites that you should not connect your component video through a reciever. For 1080i res you need about 100mhz component switching, so I read, I haven't seen many recievers with that kinda power. |
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Derek | You MAY be able to build something cheap. I have seen some of these A/V switchers (Radio Shack and www.partsexpress.com sells them with up to 8 inputs.) designed for L, R audio and composite video used for component video. It is, after all, simply three RCA jacks. I haven't been inside one but I would imagine that the worst thing you would have to do is bypass a few impedence matching resisters. Hope this helps. |
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Tim | Rolf, ... I am currently using the same setup that Derek described, and have been using it for the last several months with little problems. I only have one set of component "ins" on my TV, but I have multiple component devices (dvd player, x box, etc). I picked up a TERK audio/video switching box at Circuit City for about $39 iirc. (I've seen similar swithcing boxes at Radio Shack, too.) It's not made for component hookups but is made for just regular RED/WHITE/YELLOW inputs (the TERK has 4 of these "in" hookups, and it also has 4 S-video "ins" as well). It has one set of RED/WHITE/YELLOW/S-vid "outs". I took one set of component cables and hooked them into the component in on my TV -- the other end is hooked into the "outs" on the TERK switching box. I then I took other component cables and ran them from my various component-out devices to my TERK box. You're actually going to be hooking up the component cables (red/blue/green) to the switching box's audio & video "ins" (the red/white/yellow). You have to be sure to be consistent on the hookups. For instance, if you choose to take the blue cable of your component cords and hook them into your white inputs on the switching box, you need to follow that pattern all the way through and make sure that all blues are hooked into whites and that the white "out" is hooked up to your blue cable and that the blue cable is then hooked into the blue component "in" on your TV. It worked for me. I've also seen some specialized component switching units made by JVC. You can do a search at google for something like "JVC component switching" and you will see options pop up. But, they cost a lot more than the $39. |