Wireless networking has, in a notably short time, gone from being a minor miracle used only by the geeky elite to a mainstream technology, thanks to falling prices, newer, faster standards, and the ubiquity of broadband connections. Going wireless is cheaper and easier than ever, and the latest devices are fast enough to handle heavy-duty tasks like large file transfers and streaming audio and video.
Modern wireless networks offer much more than just wireless Internet access; devices like digital audio and video players are adding wireless features that let you share your digital media around the house. You can even put nonwireless devices like printers and game consoles onto a wireless network with the help of products that quickly and easily convert them to wireless.
To help you build the best possible wireless network, we tested dozens of products and chose the best routers and adapters, print servers, wireless bridges, audio and video players, and travel routers. Our chart of the top wireless kits
compares sets of routers and adapter cards. Our Best Buy comes from Netgear: A moderate price, combined with above-average performance and a very simple setup, place this kit at the top of the chart.
But while setting up and maintaining a wireless network is getting easier, it is still far from being foolproof. So we also offer and the Apple AirPort Extreme, which was our pick. The AirPort Extreme conveniently supports printing from either Macs or PCs; most wireless print servers do not. And the AirPort was simple to set up on each platform.
We also tried three stand-alone print servers from IOGear, Belkin, and Linksys. The IOGear GPSR01U ($75) is the simplest of the three, a palm-size 802.11b device with a single USB 1.1 port. Moving up the ladder a rung, the paperback-size Belkin F1UP0001 ($100) is an 802.11g model with two USB 1.1 ports, so it can work with two printers at once. It also provides an ethernet port, giving you the flexibility of connecting it with a wire. The Linksys WPS54GU2 ($120), another paperback-size device, offers both a USB 2.0 port and a parallel port, for connecting to older printers. Like the Belkin, it has an ethernet port for connecting directly to your wired network.
All three devices work in similar fashion: You run a configuration utility, attach your printers to the print server, and then install and configure the printer server utility on each PC you want to print from. For basic one-printer installation, all of the servers we tested were reasonably easy to configure. Each time the process took around 30 minutes (because it involved setting up both a Wi-Fi device and a printing device), but all of the products came with good setup guides.
Another benefit of these three units is that they support Internet Protocol printing, so you don't even have to be near your computer to print. IPP allows you to, for instance, print out a report in the office from your location on the road.
All the devices we tried worked fine with our test printer (an Epson Stylus Photo 890), and all claim compatibility with most inkjet and laser printers. But they don't always work with multifunction printers; most consumer MFPs can only print, not scan or fax, when connected to a print server. Finally, if you're looking for a new printer, HP makes several--including the Photosmart 8450 ($150) and the Photosmart 2710 all-in-one ($400)--with a wireless print server built in, obviating a separate device.
You can link almost any device with an ethernet port, such as a video game console or a network printer, to a wireless network by adding a Wi-Fi bridge. You connect your device to the bridge's ethernet port with a cable, and the bridge retransmits the data coming from the wired device wirelessly. The device itself acts no differently while using the wireless network.
We tried out a few Wi-Fi bridges from Actiontec, Belkin, D-Link, and Hawking, but literally dozens more are available from other vendors. Our favorite was the Belkin F5D7330 ($100). This 802.11g unit had by far the best setup utility and user manual, though none of the products we looked at were complicated to install or use. The setup process was a little more involved when we enabled encryption on the network--we had to enter the encryption key into a Web-based setup program. Nevertheless, all the devices (except the Belkin model) supported WPA, and they worked without problems. If you are creating a wireless network from scratch, purchasing a bridge from your router vendor would make sense, especially if you have a speed-boosted model.
You can mount a Wi-Fi video camera almost anywhere a power source exists. The two units that we tested have some amazing features for consumer-level products. The Hawking HNC320W ($135) is a compact 802.11b camera, while the D-Link DCS-5300G ($350) is an 802.11g unit. Others are available from such vendors as Axis Communications, Linksys, and Veo; click here for reviews.
Both models we looked at have built-in Web servers so you can view live video from any PC with Web access. Want to see if your kids got home from school okay, or to check on your office while you're working remotely? Just fire up your Web browser. Both cameras have motion detectors that can trigger video recording and send e-mail alerts if they spot movement. In addition, the D-Link model has a microphone for audio recording, as well as a motor with remote pan and tilt control; being able to pan the camera around remotely makes it much more useful, because it can cover an entire room. Both units include applications for recording and playing back video and for managing multiple cameras.
Neither camera is weatherproof or sensitive enough to capture video in low-light situations (though for nighttime security use, you could mount a motion-triggered floodlight nearby). But for the price, they do an impressive job.
Your digital audio and video don't need to be restricted to your PC--with a wireless media player, you can send music and video to your stereo system. We tried out the Linksys WMLS11B ($150) and the MacSense HomePod ($170). For use around the house, the Linksys is a great choice. It has large integrated speakers, so you can use it as a stand-alone wireless boom box as well as connect it to your stereo system (you can also detach the speakers). And the LCD is big and easy to read.
The HomePod also provides built-in speakers, but they are small and produce less volume. On the other hand, the HomePod searches automatically for music located on multiple host computers (Macs or PCs), and even has a USB 1.1 port for you to attach a storage device directly; the Linksys works with only one host, which must be running Musicmatch Jukebox. Besides Musicmatch, the HomePod also works with ITunes, Winamp, and several other music players. Both the WMLS11B and the HomePod support Internet radio playback, and the Linksys can tune in the Rhapsody music service. Oddly, neither supports WPA, so they won't work on encrypted networks.
The Actiontec Wireless Digital Media Player ($160) boasts DVI output for connecting to a high-end TV (in addition to more mainstream ports). However, the software that came with it (which must run on the PC where the digital media is stored) was somewhat confusing to install and use. We'd also like to see a volume control on the remote, so you don't have to switch to your stereo remote for that function.
If you have a Windows Media Center PC, another alternative is coming soon: This fall, Media Center Extenders from various vendors will let you access all your Media Center PC content (such as recorded TV or digital music) on your TV or stereo system. Microsoft is also working on software that will turn an Xbox game console into a Media Center Extender. The advantage of these devices is that you won't have to learn a different interface to use them; they will work in the same way as a Media Center PC.
travel routers are pocket-size versions of their larger siblings with specialized setup utilities for sharing a single connection (such as a single ethernet port in a hotel or conference room) among several people. They also let you save multiple configurations and switch among them, so you could have one configuration for hotel rooms, another for home, and yet another for the office conference room, making it easier to get online in different locations on the road.
We looked at the Apple AirPort Express, the Asus WL-330g, and the Netgear WGR101. Apple's AirPort Express was our runaway favorite, thanks to its built-in power supply (the other two have separate power bricks that nearly double their size and weight) and its ability to act as a wireless print server. All were easy to get up and running, though nonstandard setups (such as networks that require authentication) may be more difficult. The Netgear omits WPA encryption capability.
So you've taken our advice and bought all the parts you need for your wireless network--now you have to put it all together. While most Wi-Fi devices are relatively simple to install and use (see "No-Hassle Wireless Networking Superguide" for installation tips), coaxing the best performance out of your network takes some effort. Read on for tips to bring your Wi-Fi net up to speed.
Location is indeed everything when it comes to getting the best range out of your Wi-Fi router. Wireless performance drops off dramatically as signal strength falls (from a top speed of 54 mbps with 802.11g to as little as 1 to 2 mbps at the lowest discernible signal strength); so if you can, you should position your router in a spot where all of your computers receive good signal strength.
Ideally, your Wi-Fi router should go in a location at the center of your house or office for best coverage, but you will have to position it near your DSL or cable modem. To test the coverage, do a preliminary installation of your router in the same room with your broadband modem, then connect your notebook PC wirelessly and walk around your home or office, checking the signal strength in the wireless adapter's administration software. Metal, stone, concrete, water, and human beings absorb or reflect signals, while wood and glass let them pass relatively unchecked. So place your router high in the room, as far away from obstructions as possible, parallel to the wall, and away from windows to stop the signal from spreading beyond the building. Also try adjusting the antenna; just as with a TV antenna, even an inch can make a big difference in wireless reception. Have a partner with a notebook in a distant room call out to you as the signal gets better.
If you discover that your home or office suffers a few dead spots, you can add a higher-power antenna; see "Extending the Range."
Try to minimize interference. 802.11g Wi-Fi networks operate in the 2.4-GHz frequency range, the same as microwave ovens and many cordless phones. If you have 2.4-GHz cordless phones and they cause problems with your network, the only solution is to swap them for 900-MHz or 5.8-GHz models.
The other chief source of interference is competing Wi-Fi networks. Wi-Fi has gotten so popular that a single apartment or office building can house multiple networks, all trying to use the same frequency. A free utility like NetStumbler can identify nearby networks. Note the channel numbers of any with significant signal strength, and set your network to use a different channel. Also make sure that your own SSID (network name) is different from the others, so your computers don't try to connect to them by accident.
Enabling WEP or WPA can significantly cut the speed at which data is transmitted. That's why it's important to start with a strong signal, so that the speed loss is minimized. Also, don't fall into the trap of turning off the encryption in order to get better performance--doing so would make it simple for an outsider to snoop on your network. For more tips on how to secure your Wi-Fi net, see "5 Common Wi-Fi Security Mistakes."
If your computer can't seem to recognize your router, or if you can't get onto the Internet, the following basic troubleshooting steps should help (and make tech support phone calls much shorter).
The first thing to do with any network glitch is to isolate the issue. Make sure that both the adapter card and the router are set to the same SSID, encryption mode (WEP or WPA), and encryption key--an error in any of these will lock you out of the network. If possible, try connecting a PC to the router via one of the wired ethernet ports. If you can bring up the router's administration interface on a wired connection, but not with Wi-Fi, check that your Wi-Fi card drivers are installed correctly. Usually the software that comes with the adapters has a testing option.
Also ensure that the adapter card and router are compatible. 802.11g routers may have g-only modes of operation to which 802.11b cards can't connect, or speed-boosted g modes that prevent regular 802.11g cards from connecting. Routers can also be set to allow only those clients with specific MAC addresses to connect to them, as a security measure. Make sure your card is on your router's list.
If you can connect to the router wirelessly but can't get onto the Internet, your card is working fine, but you'll need to troubleshoot your router. Check your router configuration to be sure you set it up properly. Rerun the setup utility, checking the mode (PPoE or DHCP, depending on what your ISP uses) and the user name and password that you use to log on. Be sure the settings match those that your broadband provider gave you. Some broadband modems are tied to the MAC address of the computer on which they were first installed, so you may need to "clone" the MAC address and fool the modem into thinking your router is really your PC.
Check that the wired connection between the router and the broadband modem is firmly seated, and that the indicator light for this connection is glowing. If a light is off, you may have a bad cable, or you might have connected a crossover ethernet cable instead of a regular one. Some routers come with a crossover cable that you use while setting it up--this cable doesn't work for the connection between the router and the modem.
If you get dropouts or lose your Internet connection, make sure you have the latest firmware for both the router and the adapters. Wi-Fi vendors issue frequent firmware updates that address such issues and add new features.
And finally, one last thing to remember: Keep your Windows system up-to-date with the latest patches from Redmond.
We asked all of the major vendors to send us a wireless kit, composed of a router and enough adapters (PCI, USB, or PC Card adapters) to get at least one desktop PC and a notebook PC connected. We then tested the routers and all of the submitted adapters; if a vendor supplied more than two adapters, we picked the two fastest to make our kit.
Our testing was done in an electromagnetically enclosed environment to avoid interference from other wireless networks, and we tested both uploading and downloading through both a simulated Internet connection and a Windows networking environment. We also tested the time it took for a conventional TCP/IP ping to reach a gateway system. All of these tests were repeated several times.
This testing was done using the default configuration of the products, and using the highest possible form of encryption and the fastest mode. Some parts of the kits don't support the highest encryption settings and wireless speed--in particular, some of the USB devices don't support WPA encryption or the enhanced 802.11g modes that other adapters do. In those cases, we used the highest supported settings when testing that adapter. For all of the products, we downloaded the latest drivers and firmware--something we recommend all users do as well, for both security and performance.
The kit price is the combined cost of the router and the two listed adapters. Some vendors do not offer a full range of adapters, and other adapters were not available: D-Link, for instance, was not able to supply an 802.11g USB adapter in time for testing. Two kits tested (from Actiontec and IOGear) didn't make the chart.
Extending the RangeIf you've tried different locations for your wireless router, but you still have some dead spots around the house, consider a range-extending product. Signal strength is the key to a good Wi-Fi experience because performance drops off dramatically as signal strength decreases. The easiest and cheapest way to increase the range of your network is to replace your router's external antenna with one that is more efficient at transmitting and receiving the signal. Unfortunately, not all routers have removable antennas; the Buffalo and D-Link routers on our chart are two that do.
We looked at the following antennas from Buffalo and Hawking (several other vendors sell range-extending, high-gain antennas): The Hawking HAI6SIP ($35) boosts the signal strength in all directions; the HAI6DSP ($45) boosts the signal strength in only one direction; and the HAI15SC ($55, a corner-mounted model, boosts the signal in a 90-degree spread (for providing coverage to large rooms). The omnidirectional Buffalo WLE-DA ($50) works with only Buffalo routers; all of the Hawking antennas come with adapters that allow them to connect to a wide range of routers.
The unidirectional and corner models gave us a significant increase in signal strength and range during our informal testing inside a typical wood-frame house. The Hawking HAI6SIP omnidirectional antenna, however, offered little improvement, presumably because the built-in antennas on our D-Link and Actiontec test routers (the latter of which didn't make our chart) are very good.
In any case, you should use a directional antenna only when you want to provide coverage to a specific area, because rooms outside a directional antenna's narrow broadcast path will get even weaker signals--if they get any at all.
We also tested a preproduction version of the Hawking HSB1 ($89), a signal booster that connects between the router and the router's stock antenna and amplifies the signal. The HSB1 worked wonders, giving us very good signal strength in all of the dead or low spots we previously had. The HSB1 allows you to adjust the signal strength, so you can boost the signal enough to cover the dead spots without extending the range to your neighbor's house.
In addition, Hawking offers the HWU54D USB adapter ($49). It includes a directional antenna that you can point toward the router and its built-in antenna; the device gave us double the signal strength that we obtained with other USB Wi-Fi adapters.
If the statistics are true, about four of every five people who have a wireless network at home don't turn on any of the security features. Wi-Fi routers ship from the factory with their security turned off by default to ease the initial setup of the device, but that doesn't mean you should leave it in that mode forever.
Enabling security can take a little care, however, and even
Although the 802.11g products we've reviewed here are pretty speedy, tasks like simultaneously streaming several different video signals over a wireless connection require more bandwidth than current products offer. 802.11n is a forthcoming standard that will expand bandwidth and increase the range of wireless networks. The standard is still being discussed, but one version would provide more than 250 mbps of bandwidth, over four times that of existing 802.11g products. It would do this by compressing data more efficiently and using antennas that would allow it to transmit more than one signal at a time (a technique called MIMO, for Multiple In, Multiple Out). The final standard is not likely to emerge until 2006.
If you can't wait until then, this may be good news: Some vendors (such as Belkin) have released what they call Pre-N devices, which use their proposed version of the standard. Belkin claims that its products will be upgradable to the final 802.11n standard when it is released.
Meanwhile, two other new standards coming soon are designed to enhance existing 802.11g networks. 802.11e allows for different traffic priorities, so time-critical data (such as a video stream or a VoIP phone call) is transmitted before less important stuff (such as e-mail or Web pages). A subset of this standard called WMM (Wi-Fi Multimedia) will start appearing in consumer products late this year.
802.11i increases the security of a network by adding more encryption and access controls; a subset of this standard called WPA2 (Wireless Protected Access 2) will appear in products by year-end. Most existing routers will be upgradable to the new standard: several vendors told us that they are planning to offer WPA2 upgrades to their older 802.11g products soon. The Wi-Fi Alliance recently announced that it will be testing products for WMM and WPA2 compatibility to certify that they will work properly together, in the same way it currently evaluates and certifies 802.11g products for interoperability.
Becky Waring
