Mitsubishi WD-62725

Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
  Thread Last Poster Posts Last Post
Archive through March 10, 2005Tom Fox100
Archive through January 11, 2005RD100
Archive through December 08, 2004redmess100
Archive through October 25, 2004Anonymous100
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
 

New member
Username: Adadnod

Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-05
Tom Fox,

Since you have an extra CF from Mits, can you extract the 4.05 firmware from the 2nd CF and post somewhere? Calling California (and getting a busy signal or being on hold for 30 minutes a pop) everytime isn't cutting it.
 

Unregistered guest
Hello All,
I just wanted to know if anyone in this forum had a success watching TV & at the same time using PIP option to have a small PC screen to check e-mail/surt, etc.? I'm getting mine tomorrow from ABTELECTRONICS.COM & would like to use this as a TV & a PC monitor at the same time. ThanX for all your help! You can e-mail me at rajput@fusemail.com as well.
 

GaryDLP
Unregistered guest
Hello,
I cannot decide between a Mitsu WD-62725 or a Sammy HLP-5674W. I have gotten a price from my local dealer on both TV's with stands for the price of $3850 and 3650 respectively. I have no bias between the two television but just want to get the best set with the fewest problems. I just recieved my DirectTV system two days ago and I purchased the OTA antenea with a RCA HD reciever. If I buy the Mitsu, I will not use the RCA HD reciever but just connect directly to the TV. As for the Sammy, I will have to you the HD reciever. For my setup, can someone tell me which set I should purchase.
 

beachrdy
Unregistered guest
Ekim-75
Just a thought. Go into Netcommand. Click review and be sure monolink is checked. If it's not, put a check there. This will be the problem.
Regards
 

New member
Username: Sean007

Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-05
can you share what are some of your Video settings on the Mits DLP...Mine is below
Contrast : 40
Brightness: 42
Sharpness : Ave.
Tint: Ave.

I am afraid to set the Brightness / Contrast too high since it will shorten the lamp life.

Thanks
 

Sageice
Unregistered guest
GaryDLP: I was looking at a Samsung DLP before I bought my mitsu and the reason I went with mitsu is because I heard great things about it and bad things about the sammy. I have heard samsung dlps have sync issues with video games. I game a lot so that made the sammy not an option.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 38
Registered: Dec-04
My apologies, Dadnod...
I threw the 2nd firmware into the mail for return to Mits on the way home from work today. I wish I had seen your request earlier. I considered doing this before seeing your request, and I just hadn't gotten a chance. So, I finally threw it in the mail.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 39
Registered: Dec-04
Hey rajput,
I use the PC input into my 62725 every day. Unfortunately, the PC input cannot be viewed in a true Picture-In-a-Picture. However, it can be viewed side by side with analog or other HD content in the main screen. There are very few formatting options available in this case, depending on whether the main screen is analog or digital.

Even with side by side, it's quite acceptable... even though I'd rather it take a small corner of the main screen. Picture quality for the PC is amazing. I wish I could extend the PC to fill the entire display -- unfortunately, mine shows a few inches of black around the entire picture (1280x720) when the PC input is active. A service tech might be able to fix this, but probably only by opening up the back. My last service tech wasn't too keen on the thought of opening it up.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 40
Registered: Dec-04
Sean,
My video settings have not been changed from the default. The brightness level is adequate for me, and I also would rather not do anything directly that might reduce my lamp's pitiful life. If my lamp is still running strong in 3 yrs, I may boost the brightness so that I can take advantage of my "2 bulbs in 5 yrs" warranty.
 

New member
Username: Rblaha

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-05
Lot's of good information here but it's making me a little nervous. After lot's of "tire kicking" in the stores and reading forums, I decided the 62725 was it and bought one yesterday from Ultimate Electronics here in MN. Paid $3600..... how'd I do?

It won't be delivered for a few days yet and I guess I'm wondering if there's anything specific I should watch for?

Also, any opinions on line conditioners?
 

Unregistered guest
I was all set to buy the Mitsubishi WD 52725. Then the salesperson said that it has 2 fans and one stays on all the time (even when not watching TV) which bothers some people. Is anyone experiencing hearing the fan? Is this annoying and/or bothersome?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 41
Registered: Dec-04
As I recall, it has something like 5 fans. Despite was the salesperson said, the fans do not run all the time (unless the 52525 is that much different than the 62725). The fans are definitely noticeable while the TV is in operation. It IS a projector afterall, and projectors have fans. If you're used to complete silence, you'll probably be a bit bothered by the fans in the beginning, but you'll get used to them. Within 30-60 seconds of powering off the TV, the fans shut off. If there is a fan still running, I can't hear it in complete silence.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 42
Registered: Dec-04
Randy,
I recommend you immediately check which firmware you are running and then call Mits for an upgrade.

$3600 is a good deal. Most of us are quite happy with our 62725. Almost 4 months in operation here and no regrets.
 

wil
Unregistered guest
The user manual is not very good. I'm having a hard time using my picture-in picture. I'm able to have a tv channel on one screen, but can't view a different channel on the PIP. I also noticed that multiple channels (up to 10) can be viewed at one time, but I'm having a hard time getting one channel other than the main to work. can someone please help?
 

Sageice
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox: For your video problem with the PC input make sure your format (FORMAT button on the remote will change it) is not set to reduce, it should be set to standard. Once it is set to standard the TV will have overscan (where it is cut off so you can't see part of the picture) you will need to use a custom resolution of 1200x666, this will eliminate any overscan, make the picture fill the screen, and give you a 1 to 1 pixel ratio (each pixel on the PC will display on it's own pixel/mirror on the TV). You can get a custom resolution with a program called PowerStrip http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm or if you have a GeForce card you can go to your Display Properties/Settings/Advanced/GeForce (your cards name)/ you will then have a tab on the left of the properties window, go to "Screen Resolutions and Refresh Rates" and you will have a choice of a ton of resolutions you didn't have before, or you can add a custom resolution.

Also, I have the 62725 and there are only 2 fans not 5, one intake fan on the left side and one exhaust fan on the back. The exhaust fan does stay on even when the TV is off, it even says so in the manual. It is not very load and isn't really noticable unless you are right up next to it. While the TV is off the fan drops to a lower RPM.
 

New member
Username: Mrctmiller

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-05
Barbara, I share your pain. I just bought my 52525 and absolutely love the set except for the fan on 100% of the time. If you read the epinions.com review, they say it shouldn't be on. But no one seems to know truthfully. Any help guys? Having a tech come Fri do adjust my angle and would like to address this issue as well.
 

New member
Username: Sean007

Post Number: 7
Registered: Feb-05
the fan for the cable card is always on, 24x7. Mits will confirm this fan.
 

Unregistered guest
What is the difference in the WD-62525 and the WD-62725?
 

New member
Username: Mrctmiller

Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-05
What if I am not using a cable card? Should the fan still be running? Thanks Sean.
 

Wil
Unregistered guest
I have the 62725 and the fan turns off within a minute or so. It never stays on constantly, but then again I don't know if it makes a difference if you have a cable card. I don't have a cable card.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 43
Registered: Dec-04
Sageice,
Thanks for the correction. You're right. The Mits does have a fan running 24hrs along the right rear side, and I have no cable card. The fan is extremely quiet, and I can hardly tell it's running. Then again, I have two large tower bookcases surrounding the TV on both sides with a bridge across the top. Any sound from the back is rather muffled, except when the TV is powered up.

Also, thanks for the tips on PC resolution. I have changed to standard format and created a modeline in Linux for 1200x666. Works great. The viewport butts right up to the physical edge now just like it should. There's no mention of this resolution in the manual. In fact, my understanding was the native resolution of 1280x720 is recommended. What is your source for this 1200x666 resolution? Did you hear from Mits that this is the "perfect" one-to-one resolution? I'm actually using a SiS650 video adapter (built into the motherboard of my Shuttle SS51 HTPC), and it works great. I had previously been using an Nvidia card, but the fan on the card was just too loud. There's very little performance difference from what I can tell ... at least for my needs as an HTPC. Thanks again.

For those interested and using Linux MythTV with the Mits 62x25, here's the modeline that works best for me:

ModeLine "666p" 74.56 1200 1288 1424 1680 666 694 697 746 -hsync +vsync

For those who must suffer with Windows, I'm sure Powerstrip ($$$) will work fine for you.
 

Michael in FL
Unregistered guest
HELP! Just exchanged my Samsung HLP-6163W for a Mitsu WD-62725 (the 3 chip for the 2+ chip). Side by side in the store the Mitsu seemed much better...but not so here in my house for some reason!

I notice in white or blue spaces like sky or water sceens that the picture appears to be moving or fluttering (when it should be still)...I do not recall seeing that in the Samsung or in the store...is this normal? Is it the mirrors or defective? I think it should be a lot crisper...

I am also not sure about the settings.. I have it at:

Define Edge: On Video Noise: Standard Color Temp: High Tint: 31 Color: 31 Sharpness: 31 Brightness: 34 Contrast: 38

Anyone have a better suggestion?!?

Please help, I know that this is a better TV then the one I returned (but so far I am missing my Samsung!)

 

New member
Username: Rblaha

Post Number: 2
Registered: Mar-05
Help...
Ultiimate Electronics delivered and set up my 62725 yesterday and I've got cable reception OK but for the life of me I can't get a signal from the DVD. Nothing but blue screen.

This is a simple setup, just the cable box and DVD player. I think it's got something to do with the way NetCommand is set up but I've tried everything I dare to try and still no luck.

Any thoughts, suggestions. I know this sounds pretty elementary but I'd sure like to spend the weekend watching movies and UE is no help until Monday.

Thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Erikelvis

Post Number: 14
Registered: Jan-05
Just an update on my 52725. It has been working great. I've had it for about 2 months and no probs as of yet. It was built 01/05 I just hope I did not jinx myself.
 

HD Fanatic
Unregistered guest
Michael,

Is the picture fluttering while watching DVD's, or Sat/Cab TV? If it happens all the time with all input sources, then I would say there could be a problem with the TV. The reason I ask, is I have seen this problem on big screens while watching DVD's, and jitter from the player has been the culprit. This is where a higher end DVD player earns it's merit.
 

Michael in FL
Unregistered guest
HD,

Thanks for the help... The issue is with all sources.

Also, I turned the TV on and the screen was really messed up! Looked like it was scrambled I waited a few minutes to see if it would resolve and it did not. I turned it off and back on, the screen stayed dark for about 2 or 3 minutes and then it came on and looked ok?!?

Anyone hear of these issues??

Also hoping to hear someones settings (color, tint...)
 

HD Fanatic
Unregistered guest
Michael,

That doesn't sound good. It could be a color decoder problem. I'm assuming you purchased it recently? I would exchange it. Have you looked at the Toshiba models? Their 62" looks awesome, and it's just my opinion, but I think the colors are better on the Toshiba. The Mitsubishi looks decent once you fine tune the color in. (The factory settings are not so good.) I'm not trying to persuade you to buy the Toshiba, but it seems that there are much fewer reported problems with it.

As for your settings, since one persons settings are not necessarily going to work for your tv in your house, I would buy a good calibration disc like the Digital Video Essentials (http://www.videoessentials.com/products_main.php
I have used this disc and it works great. It comes with blue glasses that you wear to calibrate the color. I have heard that the Avia is good too but have never used it.

You can also use the THX optimization found on the Star Wars Episode I&II DVD's It won't be as good, but will get you started in the right direction.

Good Luck!
 

MIchael in FL
Unregistered guest
Thanks again HD... I did just buy it a couple of days ago... I just ordered the calibration disc, thanks for the advice.

Also, I am going to have Tweeter come out and take a look. Sometimes it looks awesome the problem that I see is mainly white or blue screens. They appear grainy and fluttering?

Also, I am not sure about the glare screen, it seems to be creating more glare than it is reducing. In total darkness it is awesome buy any light really messes things up!

Thanks again for your help!
 

New member
Username: Rblaha

Post Number: 3
Registered: Mar-05
I've had my 62725 for a few days now and am initially impressed. Had a minor problem getting the DVD to work but it turned out to be cables (installed by UE) messed up on the back of the TV.

Settings out of the box were not bad. I ran Avia calibration and it looks much better now. Net Command has proven to be a challenge as I'm having trouble getting remotes programmed but this is a minor beef and it's likely me.

Of concern though is the oval shaped bright spot that appears in the lower center of the screen on dark screens or dark scenes. I've seen other posts here regarding this problem and was wondering what's the solution and what has been done to correct this. I talked to UE and the salesman said this was something he'd never heard of but would call Mitsubishi and get back to me.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

New member
Username: Robert999

Brentwood, TN

Post Number: 5
Registered: Feb-05
Hey guys...I am still having an issue with widescreen DVD playback. I thought with a widescreen TV, the widescreen DVD content would fill the screen completely. I still have the horizontal bars top/bottom.

My DVD player is set for 16:9 TV output @ 480P. It is connected via component cables. Am I stuck with the bars or is there a way to fill the screen without using the format button? Changing the format only distorts the picture.

Thanks
Robert
 

HD Fanatic
Unregistered guest
The bars will appear on widescreen DVD's with the 2.35:1 ratio, but the bars should be fairly thin. Many of the newer widescreen releases are actually 16:9, which will fill the entire screen.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 44
Registered: Dec-04
Robert,
As HD says, the true height of the DVD picture does vary based on the DVD. You'll actually find that very few DVDs completely fill the screen vertically (in my experience). IMHO, I'd rather see horizontal bars than vertical bars.

For those of us that enjoy foreign material, that lower blank space makes a good spot for subtitles. :-)
 

Sageice
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox: No problem, glad to help. I found out about the resolution at avs forum. It is also listed in powerstrip as "HDTV 720p". You are right about the resolution for 720p being 1280x720. I am not sure why it is overscanned when using a PC on it, the only reason I can think of is that maybe all tv's are overscanned and mivies, games, and shows make up for it. I do notice that when I play DVDs through my pc it seems like they are a bit underscanned (if that's even a word lol) so maybe the tv is meant to be overscanned. A great way to see that it is a 1 to 1 pixel ratio is to open a paint program like ms paint and use a brush that is only one pixel and draw a single dot, that dot will only take up one pixel.

Randy Blaha: I still haven't found out what is up with the bright spot, It is very distracting in dark scenes.

I am missing one of the screws that hald the screen on from the back, would this be something that could mess with my extended warranty? If so what should I do? I had a mitsubishi rep come and clean my screen because it had a large spec of dust covering 4 pixels (I couldn't believe mitsubishi was willing to pay to have it cleaned) and I think maybe the tech forgot to put the screw back on. If it was a tech from the store I got my warranty from I wouldn't be worried but it was a mitsu authorized tech so I am worried it will effect the extended warranty.
 

TONY S
Unregistered guest
TAKE THE MITS BACK AND GET A KDF-60XS955 60".
THAT IS WHAT I DID.THE SONY IS MUCH BETTER,PICTUREWISE,AND IN STANDARD DEFF.,IS MUCH BETTER THAN DLP.
IN HI DEFF LOOKS LIKE IMAX.
BEAT THE MITS ALL AROUND,IN MY OPINION.
 

New member
Username: Robert999

Brentwood, TN

Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-05
Sageice and anyone else that has the bright spot at about 6:30 portion of the screen, check out this forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=0cc3a92923cfe043d77eb603e8972493 &threadid=467700&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

The bright spot issue is a defect of the light engine. As of right now, Mitsu is claiming it is normal. But, as you will read on the forum, a light engine replacement has fixed the problem. Getting Mitsu to replace it is another story. My advice, if your TV is still within the 30 day return timeframe, have your dealer replace it, just remember the new one you get may have the bright spot too, and possibly worse.

Robert
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 45
Registered: Dec-04
That's interesting, Tony...

When I did a side-by-side comparison in the store between the Sony & Mits, the Mits clarity & color was definitely superior when both were set at factory defaults. Plus, Sony's LCD was blotchy in high action scenes, which really bothered me.

Hope you don't have burn-in issues in 10 years or so because I know I won't.
 

Jeff L
Unregistered guest
Anyone had this problem with the Mits 62725? ....
Everything works fine except after viewing XBOX which is connected with Monster Gamelink 400X component video. After switching back to cable HDTV the picture is still 480p, even though it's recognizing 1080i on the info display. I have to power everything down to reset the display correctly. Any help????
 

My two cents
Unregistered guest
Everybody has their own opinions about what looks good, but I would have to agree with Tony.
BB happened to have the 60" Sony XS series right next to the Mits. 62", and the colors and skin tones were better with the Sony. The reds are especially different. With the Mits, the reds tend to look a bit orange. You may not think that when watching the set by itself, but when you have the Sony side by side, it's very obvious.

The fact of the matter for me is that I can see the "rainbow effects". Although it's harder to see them on the Mits. than most others, it's still there. I was never able to see them at first, but my eyes are now trained to the point where they are easy for me to see. (on certain scenes) If I let my eyes go out of focus slightly, they appear.
 

Sageice
Unregistered guest
Tony and My two cents (mostly directed to Tony):You guys think we should take back our tvs for the Sony which has a worse contrast ratio, is $2500 more, worse black level, worse shadow detail, worse color saturation, worse picture quality, is smaller, and is worthless to play videogames on due to the low refresh rate? LOL you guys must be crazy. Also the reds on the mitsu are perfect, I have calibrated my tv and the picture is outstanding. Plus lets not forget that though the chance is extremely low, LCD can burn in, DLP can't.

The fact is I bought my TV for video gaming. I don't care if the Sony does SD better because I don't play many games in SD, I play most of them at 720p. I also use the TV as a monitor, I will never have to worry if my TV is going to get burn in. And because I play a ton of games I would never go with any kind of display that uses LCD, it just doesn't have a fast enough refresh for hardcore gaming. I can't see the ranbow effect unless I try very hard so that is not a problem. And I did compare the Mitsu to the Sony and I was not impressed by the Sony at all, the mitsu looked better. For gaming DLP is the only way to go for a tv that is 40"+. Also screen door effect is very destracting in LCD RPTVs.

It all comes down to what you like and obviously we all liked the Mitsu the best.
 

Lane L
Unregistered guest
I am trying to setup NetCommand to control a system with an AVR receiver with component video up-conversion. So I connected the DVD/satelite/VCR to the AVR, and then run a single set of component video cables from the AVR to the COMP-1 input of the 62725 TV.

The problem I am having is that NetCommand will not let me set more than one device (DVD/satalite/VCR) to the COMP-1 input of the TV, although they have different inputs on the AVR. (I can uncheck video on the TV portion of the connection menu and get greyed out icons for these devices, but what good are greyed out icons anyway?)

Anyone know how to get this to work?

Other more minor annoyances are for example, I can not switch to TV sound because it shuts off the AVR (I lose the video). I would need to mute the AVR, not turn it off.
 

Michael in FL
Unregistered guest
Hello again... Is there an easy way to remove the glare causing glare screen? The manuel suggests sticking some type of credit card in some slot that I cannot find!?

Does anyone have an opinion or suggestion regarding glare? During the day my TV is virtually unwatchable!

HELP!
 

tony s
Unregistered guest
Sageice-i do not know where you bought your tv,but my sony xs 60'' was $100 more than the mits 62''dlp.and hey,glad your happy,for me the sony works great,and all the people who saw the 2 sets in my home agreed the sony was better.
and sd shows still have to be watched,and the sony does much better.
so when the dlp wheel spins out of your set,you can ride it over the rainbow!
 

Sageice
Unregistered guest
Tony: I do watch SD on it but I use it 99% for playing games and game development. Color wheeks don't spin out of TVs, and I don't see raindbows so your argument is truly moot. Also did those people see the Sony and mits side by side (doubt it)? I did and the mits had a better picture, but if you like crappy contrast, crappy refresh rates, the possibility of burn in (yes it is possible on LCD RPTVs), and screen door effect more power to you. But like I said 99% of my TV use is playing and making video games, and IMHO LCD was not an option.
 

tony s
Unregistered guest
Sageice-this argument could go on forever,and will.
glad you are happy with mits-sony was better for me.and burn -in issue is total bs,but hey , that is why there are choices.
i also saw them side by side,and sony was better,but got the mits after listening to salesdude,sent it back,after grainy picture,rainbows,and fan noise,sony is inthe house,a keeper,and for me ,much better.
also,any thing that spins ,can fly,so hey,who knows.wanna play color wheel frisbee?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 46
Registered: Dec-04
I'm knit picky as hell when it comes to video quality. I'll take two identical images, side by side, and compare them on different TVs. I must be looking at a different Sony LCD than the one you bought, Tony.

As for burn-in. LCD technology is quite old, and the basic concepts still apply to the latest in LCD. Unfortunately, burn-in has been proven to occur in LCD monitors. While some areas have improved, burn-in is still a fear to recon with in 10-15 years. However, since you don't have a PC input, maybe it won't be a problem for you. Just don't pause your DVDs for too long. :-)

DLP technology has been developing since the late 80's (much newer technology), but it's been around long enough to understand its pitfalls as well. When placed side-by-side with other technologies, DLP simply has the edge and has a much brighter (forgive the pun) future. You may experience loss in clarity and contrast over the next 10-15 years. Then again, you may get lucky.
 

HD Fanatic
Unregistered guest
3-chip technology (including 3LCD) will beat out a single chip technology any day of the week when it comes to color saturation and color accuracy. LCD's downside is no doubt the slower refresh rate, mediocre contrast ratios, and spacing between the pixels. DLP's have the advantage here with fast refresh rates, better contrast ratios, and filled vias in between the mirrors.(HD2+ chip)

When manufactures stop dragging their feet and start making 3 chip DLP rear projection sets, the DLP will be tough to beat. It all comes down to what strenghths you consider most important, and what weaknesses you are willing to live with.

As far as the burn-in with LCD goes, I saw one study where it would take something like 7 years of a static image to create a burn-in. Hardly a concern...
 

New member
Username: N2hops

Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-04
Has anyone notice smudges or blemishes on the screen of their mitsu. I'm on my second 52725 and I still notice what looks like a scratch behind the glare screen
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 47
Registered: Dec-04
I have one tiny dark spot on the backside of the glare screen that could probably be cleaned off, but I've noticed no smudges on mine. Sounds like you have little smudge fairies.
 

New member
Username: Mrmits

Post Number: 4
Registered: Sep-04
It probably is not a smudge under the screen. It is dust on either the light engine or mirror. Had the problem of "spots", small at first, but as time went got alot worse. Retailer took it to their shop where they cleaned it. All is well...for now. This is the 3rd problem ive had since i got it in Oct.
 

Unregistered guest
can the speakers on the WD-62725 be use for the center channel of a surround system? we are putting the TV in a lift and need to know if we can feed the TV speakers from an audio source while using the TV as a monitor.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 48
Registered: Dec-04
Hello Jimmy,
I suppose that'd be possible. You have two audio inputs per input type. So you could take a mono RCA splitter and split to the left & right speakers. Then feed in your video input.

I suggest that if you do this that you send out a reasonably flat (reduced amp) signal from your receiver and allow the TV to amp the input so that you don't blow the TV speakers. If possible, you might start by setting your audio receiver component to have a "small" center channel. Some receivers may not have such a setting.
 

nnftrt
Unregistered guest
does anyone post to this anymore
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 49
Registered: Dec-04
I'm still keeping an eye on it. My Mits has been reasonably solid lately, so there's little to complain about. I still wish they'd improve the interface and change channel switching speed between HD broadcasts, but that'll likely never happen.

If anyone has questions related to best PC hookup, I've jump through too many hoops to get to the best setup, no thanks to Mits documentation.
 

Paul TW
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox: I read most of the forum just now and have a very simple question about PC use for your Mits DLP... How good is it?

To elaborate, I currently have a Mitsubishi Megaview monitor that takes RGBHV inputs and outputs at 800x600 (it'll do 1024x768, but at an unacceptable 43hz refresh rate so I stick with 800x600). I'm in the market for an upgrade and the WD-52725 is on my short list. If I'm running VGA at 720x1280 am I going to get a crisp CRT monitor-like image or is my text going to look fuzzy? Should I expect only to be able to play video games or will word processing work just fine too? Finally, have you explored a PC input in PIP? If so, is it usable?

I understand these questions aren't common, but I've enjoyed using my "TV" as a general computer monitor for years and I'd like to continue to do the same with my upgrade.

Thanks very much for any help you can give.

Paul
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 50
Registered: Dec-04
Prior to owning my Mits, I was using a Mits mid to high end projector at 800x600 UXGA. I was NOT impressed with text quality, but film quality was good -- maybe even real good at 4000 lumens. PC quality was definitely one of my primary concerns when switching to a large screen TV, as I use MythTV on Linux for my homemade Tivo. HD recordings on a pcHDTV 3000. Playback quality is excellent even for 1920x1440 broadcasts.

As you can see from earlier discussions, I think it was Sageice who set me straight on the best resolution, 1200x666, despite the native 1280x720 claim. Regarding PC clarity, it's spectacular, IMHO and I'm quite picky. Then again, I was previously using a 27" TV other than the projector occasionally. Text quality is clear, assuming you have a good video card such as a mid-grade Nvidia. While I wouldn't match it up against a good LCD monitor, I was still blown away by the quality.

I haven't seen any other DLPs or Plasma, for that matter, match the PC-input quality of this Mits. Then again, I can only compare it against the 3 others that I've seen around the same size. I wouldn't mind if it took a DVI input, but VGA is quite acceptable. Like I said, PC input is very important to me -- you won't be disappointed.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 51
Registered: Dec-04
And I forgotten to mention PIP...

You cannot put the PC-input into the PIP. However, it can be in POP (I think it's called), where two inputs are placed side by side. While this does work, the text is quite small and is close to unreadable. Digital inputs cannot be moved to the PIP. PIP works fine for other types of inputs.
 

New member
Username: Cbhmn

Post Number: 6
Registered: Dec-04
Hey DLP pals, finally waiting to pull the plug and buy in. So many mixed messages on the 52725. In all, my gut tells me it is still the best dlp+ on the market.

Those of you that own, still happy with your decision? Am I going to be messing around a lot with firmware upgrades, service calls? Is it the minority of you that have had to fuss with glare spots, etc.?

I plan to use DTV, not the cable card. Please make me feel better about this decision before I go off and buy here in a few days...

Thanks all!
 

les brown
Unregistered guest
my kid sprayed my toshiba 62hm84 with water, and it leaked thru. ihave black spots on the screen ,they are getting smaller as they dry,but one of them is leaving what looks like a stain.is there any way of cleaning the screen behind the screen saver, or should i get a new screen. i desperatly need help,does anybody know?
 

les brown
Unregistered guest
my kid sprayed my toshiba 62hm84 with water, and it leaked thru. ihave black spots on the screen ,they are getting smaller as they dry,but one of them is leaving what looks like a stain.is there any way of cleaning the screen behind the screen saver, or should i get a new screen. i desperatly need help,does anybody know?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 52
Registered: Dec-04
The store where you purchased your TV should have a solution, and no doubt they'd be quite willing to sell it to you. As I recall, there are some special cleaners for that purpose.
 

skids
Unregistered guest
I'm being offered a 52725 floor model for $2000. It seems like a great buy despite the potential pitfalls of buying a floor model. Can anyone give me a good reason to pass this deal up? If I do go with it, what are some precautions I should take?

Thanks
 

rich m.
Unregistered guest
Sounds like a great price.. if you buy a service plan that includes light bulb replacement, you should be protected. Did you see the press release about the new mitsu rear projection LCD's (52 and 62 inch) coming in June and the new 1080 DLP's coming over the summer? They will no longer make a DLP in 720p. 720 p will be the LCD's.
 

New member
Username: Jds

Post Number: 6
Registered: Mar-05
I have a 52525 and except for getting the Adelphia SA cable cards to work, the set is terrific. The best picture I have seen on any LCD or DLP set. The price is right. Just protect yourself on the bulb life.

 

Unregistered guest
I just bought the 62725 for 3800, and was wondering if that is a decent price for it (I live in Dallas if region makes a difference) and the guy at Fry's said that almost no one had a problem with the TV but I wanted to know if there is anything I should watchout for at first.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 53
Registered: Dec-04
Siv,
First, I recommend you go ahead and upgrade the firmware to get past any little issues that have already been corrected. It's unlikely, but possible, that your TV has the latest firmware.

I'm also in Dallas and bought the 62725 for $3500 at UE. Unfortunately, they've pulled out of Texas. $3800 isn't a bad price. This Mits line is better than average as far as required servicing.
 

Unregistered guest
I paid $1899+tax and $549 for 5 year warranty from Good Guys, CA. They were shutting down and remodelling the store to a CompUSA/GoodGuys (competing with Best Buy and Magnolia HiFi). The store lost ~ $900 on selling this set to me (great shape, remote, manual, waranty).

I also purchased the stand which normally retails for $379 for $199 (cost).

The cost on the Mitsubishi WD-62725 is $2800 and anything above that is 'gravy' for the dealer.

Now you know this, see how much you wish to line your dealers pockets.
 

Steve from Wolcott
Unregistered guest
Spreidel23,
Yes I am having the same problem. There is a mirror at the bottom of the front screen which reflexs the picture up towards the back. The cabinet is open at the bottom which allows air in and of course dust. Today a service tech for the fourth time will be at my house to repair this TV, second time for dust. I have discribe this problem to Mitsubishi Tech Help, and they have told me in the beginning this is an isolated problem. Its not. To me, its a design flaw, and if nothing is done to seal the front cabinet I will forever have this problem.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 54
Registered: Dec-04
Steve,
Does your TV sit in a woodshop? That would do it. :-) Try an air purifier?
 

Anonymous
 
Hi to all wd-owner.

I need your advice. I'm owned the wd52525 for 2 months. Last week I notice there are small white spot in the middle of the screen. It stay there for 2 minutes then it went away. Called Misubishi tech. He recommended to reset the unite. After two days reset, the white spot appear again, but it move up two inch from the original it was found, and this time sometime I see it in blue, and sometime in white. It only appear for about 1 minutes to 2 minutes then go away.
Called Misubishi Tech, he recommended the tech come out to check the engine wheel. Today the tech came out, he said he did not see the dot, he could not fixed it.
Sometime I notice that it only happen to dark movie. It never happen when I watch the HD OTA.

Anyone has this problem?
how to tackle the issue or how to convince the Misubishi tech to believe in? Please let me know

Beside this problem, I love it.
 

Anonymous
 
Any problems with cable cards and the 62725. I've heard about audio problems and pic freezing. This is also with the 4.05 upgrade.
 

JasonW
Unregistered guest
Is it good buying at Anderson TV's, santa clara.
When comparing prices between Andersons, Bestbuy and Fry's, Andersons was the best.

For 52725 the quote is
Tv - $2636
Stans - $177
5Yrs Warranty - $548
Tax - 232
So totally it was $3593. Is it a good deal ...
Thanks in advance
 

JasonW
Unregistered guest
Is it good buying at Anderson TV's, santa clara.
When comparing prices between Andersons, Bestbuy and Fry's, Andersons was the best.

For 52725 the quote is
Tv - $2636
Stand - $177
5Yrs Warranty - $548
Tax - 232
So totally it was $3593. Is it a good deal ...
Thanks in advance
 

Unregistered guest
Got my Father's Day present last Thursday (6/16/05), a 52525. Got it all set up and the OTA HD is just STUNNING! I love it. Paid $2330 at Sears. I have to try real hard to hear any fan or wheel noise, like by putting my ear up to the set to hear anything. Here's my question: Will an upconverting DVD player help much in resolution given the upconverter contained it the TV set? With all of the discussion on new DVD format, should I just wait to purchase a new DVD player? We watched "The Sound of Music" and it looked pretty good although the OTA HD blows it away.

Thanks all. Happy HD viewing!
 

New member
Username: Turkey

ID

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-05
I got my WD-62525 ($3799) from UE about 7 months ago and everything was working perfect until I had a few "dull" spot start to show on my screen. A Google search let me to this board, and I found that this has happened to other people as well.

I called Mitsubishi Service and they sent out a tech, sure enough the lens & mirror had dust and other forigen particles on them. The Tech said he'd seen this on some other sets, but he thinks that it's been inside the TV the whole time and just started to collect on the mirror & lens.

But other that that, the TV is amazing, HD channels look amazing, and progressive scan DVD player & Xbox games look great as well!

 

Peas
Unregistered guest
return the WD-62525 ,and go for any lcd projection set-much less prone to problems.
my personal favorite is sony xs series.
check it out.
 

New member
Username: Mccambley

BREEZY POINT, NY USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-05
K-CHAN: OTA HD will look better than DVD. Even an upconversion dvd player will not compete with a true HD picture. Waiting for HD-DVD may take some time because it will be priced at $1000 at first.
 

New member
Username: Turkey

ID

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-05
"return the WD-62525 ,and go for any lcd projection set-much less prone to problems. "

Peas - LCD has a slower refresh rate... I don't like to see high action (sports for the lay-man) TV not keeping up and jerky.
 

Unregistered guest
So, purchasing an upconverting DVD player is a good idea right now? Will I notice a big difference between my old DVD player and a new upconverter?
 

Unregistered guest
Also, I've seen a few times where the sound and picture are way out of sync. I think it was during an OTA broadcast. I switched to a different channel and it was fine. Don't remember if I went back to see if it corrected itself. Does anybody know what's up?
 

Unregistered guest
Anyone know what the latest software version that is available from Mitsu. I have a WD-62725 with version 4.05 - still having intermittent problems - once every other month - freezing of the unit. Any help would be appreciated.

Using cable card with Comcast in Philadelphia.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 55
Registered: Dec-04
Your problem could then be possibly cable card related? I have 4.05 and haven't had a problem with lockups since I upgraded. My only problems lately are related to lost channel configuration. Occasionally it seems my channels are reset or new channels appears even though I've disabled them. Minor problem, but irritating.
 

steve 62725
Unregistered guest
Thanks Tom -

Any one know how to fix this problem... The Channel identifiers just dissappeared. Called Comcast - sent a worthless tech who replaced the card which did not work. Any other ideas. I know that I can enter manually - bot 200 channels seems a bit much.

Thanks
 

dealer 4567
Unregistered guest
originally posted by ssingh:
"I paid $1899+tax and $549 for 5 year warranty from Good Guys, CA. They were shutting down and remodelling the store to a CompUSA/GoodGuys (competing with Best Buy and Magnolia HiFi). The store lost ~ $900 on selling this set to me (great shape, remote, manual, waranty).

I also purchased the stand which normally retails for $379 for $199 (cost).

The cost on the Mitsubishi WD-62725 is $2800 and anything above that is 'gravy' for the dealer.

Now you know this, see how much you wish to line your dealers pockets."

"GRAVY?" "LINE YOUR DEALER'S POCKETS?"

What do YOU do for a living, a$$hole? How would you feel if someone like you told you that you were expected to do it for NOTHING? <^> Sit and spin!
 

Unregistered guest
Alright- I am taking the plunge. HH gregg has a wd62725 for 3299 in the store and best buy has the wd62525 for the same money.... do you lose anything with the no glare? If I put two pictures side by side, one with antiglare glass and one with regular glass the antiglare (which is what I'd expect with the -725) would annoy me..... what do you all think? Is there any other reqson to go with the -725 other than the no glare? Thanks for your input.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 56
Registered: Dec-04
For those of us with young children, the anti-glare screen also serves as excellent protection from balls and other flying objects. I question whether it helps much with glare, as we're constantly having to turn off the light... but then I guess it's designed to fend off indirect lighting.

The screen can be removed. Honestly, I've been viewing the TV so long with the screen, I can't tell you whether you lose anything by having it. I suspect there is some intensity lost.
 

Anonymous
 
I am VERY new to all of this...I just purchased the WD-52327 52"HD-Upgradeable MicroDisplay DLP TV and will be using Comcast cable with the DVR. What advise can be given on the exact cables/connectors that I should have when Comcast comes to install? Is there anything that I should have Comcast do that they may not offer to do? Thanks for any advise. Sounds like you guys know your stuff...
 

Anonymous
 
I just bought the WD-62525 at Best Buy for 2,999.99. I love it!!
 

bfl
Unregistered guest
Big Screen TV in Northern VA just dropped the price on the WD-62725 to $2999. Free delivery and free additional 2 year war. Received mine yesterday. Sweet deal, great unit.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Pitburger

Post Number: 33
Registered: Nov-04
Hello all - I am looking to buy a new notebook and connect to TV via the 15 pin connection on TV. Most of the newer notebooks come in WXGA (1280 x 800) or higher resolutions. The WD-62725 manual spec (Appendix B) says XGA (1024 x 768) and 720 x 1280 as the highest.
Anyone have any experience with this? Will the WXGA work? or is XGA the highest is can go?
 

GeoMan
Unregistered guest
I've just bought a 52725 w/ver 4.05 s/w. The problem is the video and audio are out of sync on any non-tuner source. That means VCR[!] DVD and Xbox. These are all connected directly to Mitsu. I am using standard cable (right now) and it is OK with that. The effect seems to be cyclical - its not a constant lag in video but definately discernable. Anyone else seen this?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 57
Registered: Dec-04
Rob,
I'd guess the laptop will support an output resolution of 1280x720 (or preferrably 1200x666). If you're able to get 1280x800 to even show up, it won't be a native 1-1 resolution for the TV. Whether or not this is WXGA or XGA I don't know, but the laptop "should" output at 60Hz at 1280x720 at minimum. You should be able to verify this with the laptop manufacturer.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 58
Registered: Dec-04
Geo,
I haven't experienced that problem myself like others have mentioned. However, something you might try is to reflash the firmware. I know it's a pain, but it has worked for others.
 

Ozark-al
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox; I know that the native resolution of the wd is 1200 x 666 using the VGA input, but what should the refresh rate be set at? Will I need to set these when using the DVI input instead of the VGA if I choose to do so?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 59
Registered: Dec-04
While I haven't hooked up a DVI output to the TV, my understanding is that it should figure out the refresh rate automatically. If all else fails, the refresh rate is 60 Hz whether it's DVI/HDMI or VGA.
 

lovehdtv
Unregistered guest
Has anyone got the 8300HD running HDMI to HDMI to work on a mitsu ws-62525? I'm using Time Warner out of Kansas City with a 8300HD DVR and I get video - but absolutely no audio.
 

aphelion777
Unregistered guest
my friend had just purchased the 62725 model, and upon the first day, after viweing for a few hours briefly-we turned it off, came home later and turned it on-nothing, no lights or anything----tried resetting, unplugging-nothing worked. called hhgregg, they are coming out tomorrow to replace the tv. i just happened to come across this forum tonight, and saw where many had to have the firmware upgraded---but should'nt the dealer have updated the firmware already, or the manufactorer beforehand--since this is july and many months after so many had problems? i am assuming the orders are fairly recent when delivered to the dealer...i don't know-any suggestions or anything would be helpful, i am assuming that we will have to contact mitsubishi tomorrow to get a new firmware upgrade just to be on the safe side i guess, even though we are recieving a new replacement.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 60
Registered: Dec-04
Most 62725's probably have 4.05 installed, but the firmware is easy to upgrade and always a good idea to do it even if you're replacing it with the same version. I know that sounds odd, but others have claimed in the past it has fixed their problems.

I had problems with the unit powering off 8 month ago. A reset wouldn't fix it. The unit had to be unplugged. Since I ugpraded to 4.05, I haven't seen this problem.
 

WhiteNoise
Unregistered guest
Anyone know why the audio and video would be out of sync. Happens on HD, digital and standard channels. More noticeable on HD. I have the 52725.
 

David in Nevada
Unregistered guest
All-
I just purchased a 62725 from Good Guys in Nevada for $3,000. This is a floor model and they have lost the factory remote. I was planning on buying a universal/programable remote anyway but will I need the factory remote for setup purposes etc? Also need the users manual, anyone know where I can download one? Any help is appreciated...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 61
Registered: Dec-04
David,
The manual can be acquired from Mitsbuishi's website, as is the case for most products -- http://www.mitsubishitv.com/support/ownersguide/default.asp?prodId=1&yearId=2&mo dId=6

Unfortunately, it's difficult to locate a universal remote that has the complete button functionality for this Mits. Programming by infrared is really the best way. You might see if they'd let you use a remote they have instore (or another store) to program your universal remote.
 

David in Nevada
Unregistered guest
Tom-

Thanks for the input. I found a website, 800remotes.com which sells stock remotes and other stuff for all types of equipment. The problem is that a stock remote costs $85.00. I am going to approach the salesman about swapping out my floor model for a new in box, if they have one in stock nearby. Otherwise your advice sounds like the best bet. I bought a Universal Orion MX-850 which is great but seems to require a PHD to custom program. Thanks!
 

David in Nevada
Unregistered guest
I walked into the store yesterday and noticed my floor model had been put back on the floor. My salesman had arranged to send me a new set, he wasn't even going to say anything until it was delivered. Remote and paperwork problem solved and I got a decent deal to boot....
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 62
Registered: Dec-04
Most excellent deal -- better than many of us ...
 

Helppp!!!!!!!
Unregistered guest
Hi all Mitsubishi owner,
I'm owned wd52525 model. Everything is almost perfect, acepted one problem. The problem is everytime I watch channel 5(NBC) OTA program, the tv turned itself of at least 2 to 4 time for the program or movie run about 2 hours. It not happen to any other channel. By the way, I live in Dallas TX. If anyone known or have this symptom, please give me recommendation.

I called Mitsubishi support, they blame for the NBC forecasting signal. It make sense by me, because it only happen to thie particular channe 5(NBC)

Thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 63
Registered: Dec-04
I also live in Dallas and have had no such problem, but I own a wd62725 instead -- so could be apples vs oranges. I assume you've tried installing latest firmwire? I can't imagine there would be anything wrong with the signal, but who knows... 5 looks good to me. Does it also happen on 5.1?
 

New member
Username: Cepyle

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-05
Hey Everyone. I am hoping someone is an expert on the 62725. I just got it and on my old TV I could get HD channels from my OTA I have installed outside. But my 62725 does not pick up on any of the HD channels when I go to "memorize" through the net command. When it goes to "memorizing digital channels" the screen goes blue in the back ground and I end up with no HD channels. Is there something in the setup I am missing? Please help!!!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 64
Registered: Dec-04
I don't mean to ask the obvious question, but are you memorizing the correct antennae input? Is it picking up analog channels?

Other than that, others have reported that their smaller sets appear to pick up HD signals better as well. It could be your old set had some sort of built in signal amp. If you don't already have an amp on the antennae line, you might consider connecting one to your antennae input and then the line into your amp. I've thrown an amp on my 100' line to the roof antennae, and it does wonders.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Pitburger

Post Number: 34
Registered: Nov-04
for tom fox and Sageice - having problems with the PC input on the 62725. I see the wallpaper but no desktop (icons, start menu, etc.) my new laptop has an ATI Radeon card, tried all the resolutions, etc. Cant get it to work!! any help appreciated! I have the tv set as the second monitor, and if you click identify, it does show 1 for the laptop and 2 for the tv. HELP
 

New member
Username: Cepyle

Post Number: 3
Registered: Aug-05
THanks Tom. I did a system reset and rememorized and it worked just fine. I guess TV's are built by Microsoft these days . . .
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 65
Registered: Dec-04
Rob,

If you TV is set at the secondary monitor (and not as a "clone"), then what you're seeing is normal. You will see the wallpaper only. The icons and menu will only show up on your primary monitor. You should be able to move the mouse onto the TV, though, by moving the mouse past the right or bottom of the primary display... depending on how you have positioned the secondary monitor.

If you want the TV to act as a "clone" of your laptop screen, then you will need to make a change to your laptop display settings. How that is done is dependent on your video drivers, but it should be possible.

Also, make sure you have set your secondary monitor's resolution to 1280x720... or 1200x666 (if possible). To get 1200x666, you'll need to use one of the few Windows utilities that provide unusual resolutions like this one. I forget the name of the most common utility, but you should be able to find some discussions about the tool earlier up in this thread.

A few of the movie playback apps (like bsplayer and zoomplayer) will allow you to fullscreen video display to a secondary monitor. It works quite well. I've used my TV as a secondary monitor before and I regularly use a projector as a secondary monitor, so I'm quite familiar with it.
 

New member
Username: Robert_r1

CA

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-04
Power Strip :-)
 

Unregistered guest
To anyone who may have experienced the following problem:

I have a new WD62725 that was working just fine for two weeks until today (8/31/05). The audio is ok, but, all I get for the video is a screenful of vertical colored stripes. This also happens with I try using the satellite and dvd modes. However,I do get a normal 2nd image in the pip mode when activitated along with the colored vertical lines picture.

I'm going to call the service tech, but, out of curiosity,has anyone experienced this situation?

Thx for any input.
 

New member
Username: Rizzer

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-05
Hey Tom, regarding your post (3up)... I will be setting up my new wd-62525 this weekend and my plans are to have my dell 20' widescreen monitor with a native resolution of 1680x1050 next to my mits... i want to clone the displays as i run 4 screensavers full time on that dell fpw2005...

My pc randomizes every 15 minutes between movie trailers, family photos via webshots, serenescene marine aquarium and sharks: terrors of the deep... but i also want the mits to double as a web surfer when needed... i want to CLONE as the screensavers will also look cool for short periods of time on the mits...

Am i to understand that i'm screwed? if my dell's native res is 1680x1050, if i clone to the mits, what is gonna happen? the dell looks like crap at any res other than native and i have a feeling that the mits will either not accept 1680x1050 or also look like crap... is there anyway to do what i want? thx in advance!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 66
Registered: Dec-04
If you continue to run the primary monitor at 1680x1050, the TV will also run at 1680x1050, but only virtually. This means your TV's true resolution will be set to 1280x720 (or whatever you choose), but will scroll when you move the mouse to the right or down for a "virtual" resolution of 1680x1050.

I have a Dell 20" also, but it's the 4:3 aspect version (not widescreen), and it looks fine at 1280x1024 (comparable to what you'd be looking at with 1280x720 - with native res of 1600x1200). Running your 20" at 1280x720 seems like it'd be a good solution (if possible). I'd personally rather do that than run a virtual scrolling 1680x1050. BTW, I don't run a second display alongside my TV -- my TV is my only display for the Shuttle XPC hooked up to it. I control the PC via wireless keyboard/mouse and remotely via VNC.

Ya know, you may be able to run your TV as a second monitor (non-clone) and still view the screensavers on the TV. I suspect you'd only be able to view them on either the monitor or the TV (not both at the same time), but that depends on the screensaver software.
 

New member
Username: Cepyle

Post Number: 4
Registered: Aug-05
Has anyone had a problem with the tuner deleting all your channels on Ant-1 input? I run the memorize channels and the process completes. But within 10-15 minutes all the channels are "forgotten" and I have to re-memorize. Anyone with any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 67
Registered: Dec-04
Clinton, this happens to me as well, but it doesn't sound like it happens as often as it does for you. On occasion, it'll decide to pick up another channel that was previously disabled, or it might add an analog channel that was disabled alongside its digital counterpart which was enabled. It happens less often than it used to, though. Make sure you're on the latest firmware.

I also find this happens when the TV loses power. My TV is hooked to a PVR/UPS, so it rarely would lose power, but if I manually powerdown the UPS and re-enable it, my channel settings are mixed up.
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-05
Could someone please post what the latest as of
9/13/05
Firmware release is for WD-52525 ?
Does the firmware cover other models?

Is there a NON-official site dedicated to our brand of TV? (Hacks , manuals, hints...)

The menu on this TV is lame considering. My channels take 2-3 sec to change when I change the channel. The Picture-in-picture should keep the channel number visable if desired. I think a much better interface could have been done with this user interface for the TV. They really need to revamp the code.

I am now thinking of just going out and buying a HDTV tunner card for the PC and go in the TV via DVI.
Has anyone considered hacking the firmware? Would it be possible to open more channels?

Any thoughts?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 68
Registered: Dec-04
There are plenty of HDTV sites that discuss the Mits, but I'm not aware of an unofficial one that focuses directly on the Mits or this series of TVs. If there are hacks available, I'd like to know. :-)

Agreed. The long channel switch time (especially for HD stations) is everyone's biggest gripe. I own multiple HD tuner PC cards. I think you may find that most HD tuners hestitate before displaying a channel. Maybe this is due to buffering the stream prior to rendering to reduce blocky transitions.

And I'd also love to fix the user interface. It's almost painful to use. Nevertheless, this TV is a keeper. I've tried several interfaces on other TVs and didn't like them much either.
 

Unregistered guest
I have had a Mits. WD-62725 for about a week now.

Observations:

Very slow to change channels. Like 3 to 4 seconds.
Channels close (like channel 2 to 3) appear quicker than channels far apart (like 2 to 56). Has anybody else seen this?

Screen seems darker than most other DLP's. Not offensive, but just darker.

Seems like a very good TV otherwise, no complaints.

Thanks for response.
 

Unregistered guest
What a stupe, had I read the post from Tom Fox above I would have known of others seeing this as well.

Please disregard my post.

Thanks,

Gerry
 

New member
Username: Sammyw

Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-05
I have had my Mits WD-62725 for about 10 months. Has been working GREAT with a GREAT picture at all times. However, when I turn it on now, the lamp comes up to brightness, the picture displays perfectly (brightness is good etc), and about 15 seconds after the picture displays it turns off, and the LAMP LIGHT lights RED on the front panel. The owners manual says the lamp is defective, yet it works for 15 seconds and again the pic is perfect. There have been no warning messages about lamp replacement getting near. Did the lamp bail out? (I cleaned the filter too, just in case), or is there some other problem that is causing this issue? Any suggestions, or do I just buy a replacement lamp? Thanks! Sam
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 69
Registered: Dec-04
I would guess wherever you bought this Mits that you have at least a 1 yr warranty. I'd have them check it out for you free of charge. It sounds like no problem that I've experienced... yet. I've also had my Mits for about 10 months, yet I'm reasonably comfortable with an extended warranty and 2 bulb replacements. I hope you get your problem fixed.
 

New member
Username: Sammyw

Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-05
Tom, thanks for your post. I thought the very same thing and called the dealer this morning. They are scheduling a service call to take a look. Hopefully, they will get it resolved in short order. I don't know how long I can take without my Mits! Sam.
 

New member
Username: Sammyw

Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-05
Regarding the posting I listed on 10/13 re: TV turning off after about 15 seconds of picture and sound, and the LAMP LED lighting: Called the place where I purchased it and they thought it was a defective lamp. Called Mits warranty parts replacement and after 45 minute wait in their queue they were very accomodating sending another lamp out under warranty. Called them on a Thursday, they said they would have it delivered FedEx for Saturday delivery. Lamp arrived as promised. After replacing the lamp cartridge 5 minutes later, presto, problem resolved. So, while the tv was only 7 months old, apparently the original lamp had some type of defect with it only lasting a short time. But, easy to fix, mits parts was accomodating (other than the long hold time on a long distance number), and all works well. No complaints! VERY PLEASED WITH THIS TV!
 

Unregistered guest
I recently purchased the WD-62725. I just had my cable company (Insight) come out to install the Cable Card, but the technician said he tried 3 different cards and running a direct cable from my Leviton distribution panel, but was unable to get it to work. I believe the TV said "unable to read card". The technician said it was the software in the TV and it needed to be upgraded. He said he's seen many Mitsubishi's with this same issue. I've seen posts about firmware, is that the same thing? Mine says it is on version V26 004.05, is that the latest? If not, how do I get it? How do I install it? Thanks in advance! Love the TV outside of this minor issue.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 70
Registered: Dec-04
rkoch,
I wish I had words of wisdom for you, but I have not used a cable card with this TV. 4.05 is the latest firmware. Some people do find reinstalling the firmware has helped them. It's a painless process.
 

Dietzgen
Unregistered guest
I've had my Mits WD-62725 for about 2wks. So far its an awesome TV but I think the picture is too dark. I haven't adjusted the brightness because this seems to "wash out" the picture. Does anyone else have this problem? I'm struggling with taking it back?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 71
Registered: Dec-04
Dietzgen,
I've had no real problems with the brightness of this TV, at least none that I wouldn't experience with any other TV this size. Is removing the anti-glare screen an option for you? Do you have windows nearby? If the windows have no covering, you might consider a set of thin curtains to reduce any direct lighting.
 

Dietzgen
Unregistered guest
Thanks T-Fox. I'm probably just being paranoid. I think the anti-glare screen does darken the picture a bit. I really only notice the darkness when I'm watching "Nip/Tuck".

Thanks Again!
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-05
Heya all,

Well, It's been a while since I last posted. I guess they haven't updated the firmware in a while. I was deciding either build a PVR PC side box or get a HD cable box.
I'm in the process of building a PVR PC with windows XP/Linux boot and try either side using Fusion HD tuner card.
In the mean time have been using HD PVR cable box. The disadvantage is cost, about $37 a month extra on top of cable to use the box w/ PVR functions. I have Time Warner cable here in Austin, TX. It makes using this TV 100% better. Using the remote to isolate the HD channels and mostly just watching them is wonderful. The Channels change quick like they should even the HD ones.

Anyone have similar setup as a cable box or pc?

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 3
Registered: Sep-05
QUESTION: What is the best connection to use with a cable box?
HDMI to HDMI or Component?
What is the best connection to use with a computer?
VGA to VGA
DVI to HDMI
VGA to Component

Any recommendations on best PC video card to use with our HD TV?

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 4
Registered: Sep-05
Is there a way to avaid the jagedness on fast movements on HD video? At the moment, I'm using
Component cables from the Atlantic cable box to the TV. Would the display get better or improve on the jaggedness if I used HDMI direct?

Thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 72
Registered: Dec-04
Wilson,
I'm not using cable at all, so I can't comment on its usage. Actually, that's not completely true. I feed basic cable into my backend Myth box, but that's analog only. It sounds like you have a nice setup, but I'd personally build my own PVR for that cost. Maybe not quite as convenient, I realize. It's hard to beat the simplicity of a real PVR.

If your cable box outputs HDMI or DVI, then you'll want to use HDMI for the best quality. You probably won't notice the difference going with component, but it'll always loom over you if you don't go HDMI. :-) If the output is VGA, there's no point to converting to HDMI. My opinion.

If you're going Linux for the PC connection, then any mid-grade NVidia card will be fine, such as the FX series. i.e. NVidia supports Linux quite well. For Windows (shoot yourself why don't you), any recent NVidia or Radeon will do a fine job.

Unfortunately, I don't know any way around the jaggedness/blockiness during fast movement. I don't know if this is due to Mits' tuner HD conversion or simply compression in the HD signal, but understand that you're not alone. In any case, I do know that some TVs appear to handle the blockiness (during fast movement) better than others. I'm not sure where the Mits rates there. It doesn't bother me enough to dig deep here.
 

Rep
Unregistered guest
Does any one know if the channel identifiers(NBC,ABC,CBS) on the WD62525 should be displayed on the screen when using the cable card? I have Optimum cable and the identifiers are not there.
BTW, Costco has this TV for $2850.00 with the stand.
 

Grimm
Unregistered guest
I use Charter Cable via a cable card. About two weeks ago my TV was no longer able to receive any channels above 100. The HD channels start at 770 and go through 788 or so.

The Charter tech came out to the house at least 4 times and even though he had called other techs to assist over the phone, they were unable to resolve the issue. However, Mitsubishi suggested we upgrade to a new software release.

I performed the upgrade myself and could once again receive channels above 100, including the HD channels.

However, earlier this week I disconnected my TV so that I could plug in a new surge protector. Once I turned the TV back on I found that I could not get all channels. But, the problem is slightly different than my earlier problem.

Now, I don't get some of the channels above 100, and get only some of the HD channels. For example, I don't get channels 770 through 775, but I get channels 776 through 780.

Any suggestions to resolve this? Thanks in advance.
 

Grimm
Unregistered guest
Rep, my understanding is that the channel identifiers cannot be displayed when using the cable card. You can designate channel identifers through one of the setup options, though. However, I've never used that, so I don't recall if that gives you the ability to assign just numeric identifers (i.e. channel number), or and alpha identifer as well.
 

AmberC
Unregistered guest
HI, I have the WD62725 and seem to have an audio sync problem. It happens with Digital Cable and my DVD Player, so I'm assuming its something with the TV. Any ideas? I have had the tv about 3 months.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 73
Registered: Dec-04
Audio sync issues are a known problem with this TV. I don't believe the latest firmware solves the problem either, but it might be worse reflashing your firmware in any case. It may help. In any case, they are aware of the problem, but I'm not sure when they'll fix it. It's been a problem for quite a while, so they may never find the problem.
 

Grimm
Unregistered guest
I figured out the problem I posted about (4 posts up). I disconnected the VCR and started getting a few more of my HD channels. I had the cable input coax going to the VCR and the VCR output coax then going to Ant1 on the TV.

I then disconnected the coax from my home theatre surge protector. At this point the cable coax was going directly from the wall outlet to the TV. Once I did that I started to once again receive ALL my HD channels.

I guess the VCR and the surge protector were each causing interference?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 74
Registered: Dec-04
Sure, everything causes intereference to at least a small degree. I wouldn't expect that level of loss with a cable line, though, but I don't have much experience with cable. You might trying moving your surge protector and VCR around to see if it affects channel lock. Try the TV again without surge protector to verify you have no problems without it. Another brand of surge protector might be worth trying. Just a thought.
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 5
Registered: Sep-05
What is the latest Firmware for the Mistubishi WD-52525 ? Is there another place to check for firmware updates?
 

New member
Username: Andyman1970

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-05
I just purchased my Mitsu WD-62725 this week. It was possibly the last one in the Chicagoland area. The model's officially discontinued from Mitsu so Tweeter had them at a price I couldn't pass up. More importantly, this was the last time a Medallion series utilized the Diamond Shield. On the 2006 models, the Diamond Shield is only available on the Diamond series line. Since I have young children, I consciously went with the 2005 model.

So far, so good. Delivery and setup were smooth. Came with the 4.05 firmware out of the box. I'm using a component cable between my Toshiba DVD player and the set. I can notice a vast improvement relative to the DVD quality.

My HTiB is backordered for two weeks. I went with the Samsung HT-HDP40 as Sears has them on sale for $299 plus a 10% mail in rebate. You can not beat that price for a unit that does HDMI upconversion.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 75
Registered: Dec-04
Agreed. I have toddlers as well. Balls and cars are flying left and right, so having a shield is rather important. Since everything has gone 1080p, no doubt any remaining of this model will drop in price significantly.

I've had my 62725 for almost a year now. Only a few things that truly irritate me at this point:

-- Channels seem to appear out of nowhere (OTA)
o I prefer to select all digital channels, but the analog stations keep coming back
-- TV shuts down occasionally on its own
o Sometimes reports a reason, sometimes not
o Claims airflow is blocked, but everything is clean
-- Slow channel changes are bearable, but irritating
-- Remote device signal shorter than many TVs, so some universal remotes select twice

Unfortunately, I suspect there will be no more firmware releases for this model to correct problems such as these. Overall, it's a short list for someone as picky as myself. :-)
 

New member
Username: Edean6

Sachse, TX US

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-06
Has anyone heard of video problems with Mitsubishi model WD-6275. The problem my father is experiencing is when he views HD broadcast, intermittantly the video produces a horizontal flat line picture. He has had multilple repairmen out from a very reputable a/v dealership and Mitsubishi claims it is some other problem i.e. cable provider or something else... this does not seem true since when he uses his VCR, there has never been an issue. Has anyone heard of this type of problem for the model WD6275 DSP HDTV?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 76
Registered: Dec-04
Hello Eddy,
For the first time (and actually it was today), I experienced an odd problem where I saw white static-like horizontal lines across the top third of the screen (while watching a show in HD). Switching to DVD and back seemed to fix it. I've not seen that happen before. I'm not sure if it's related to what your father is experiencing. If it happens again, I'll dig further into it and will report my findings.
 

swpatras
Unregistered guest
Has anyone heard if Mitsu has come out with a fix for the audio sync problems for the WD-62725. I am about ready to call for service before my warranty runs out.
 

jamescrew6
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox, I have also been getting shut-downs where the tv posts a message to check to ensure that air flow is not blocked. I have called this in for repair 5 times and this time Tweeter is going to replace the chasis (sp?). I hope that this fixes the problem. The problem seems to be getting worse and the tv regularly shuts down on a daily basis. I will let you know if this fixes the problem.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 77
Registered: Dec-04
Thanks James,
It's not a daily problem for me yet. I'm also tired of channels appearing out of nowhere in my selected channel list. I may have someone come out also.
 

jamescrew6
Unregistered guest
Tom Fox, Tweeter will be out Feb 10 with the new chassis. Not sure what that is, but I am told that it is the main board that contains most/all of the chips and circuitry in the tv. I will post a message if this clears up the problem. All the previous times they replaced the fans and thermostatically controlled switch that does turn the tv off when it gets too hot. This solved the problem for a few weeks but it always came back.
 

dclark
Unregistered guest
Hey folks. I have a WD-52725 and just installed an OTA analog/digital/HD antenna (Wineguard)...to capture the free OTA HD programming in my area. I plugged the coax into Ant-2...did the channel search thing and I got no digital channels and no HD. Tried again but second time plugged into Ant-1..channel search and again no digital channels, no HD.

Does anyone have any suggestions what I should do or try with the tv? (I have 4.05 firmware) Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 78
Registered: Dec-04
Hello dclark,
It sounds like your antenna is:
- Not pointed the right direction, and/or
- Needs amplification

I'd recommend setting the TV to a known digital channel in your area (e.g. 4.1 for the digital channel 4). So, bring up the Antennae screen, and "add" the channel to the channel list. Then move the antennae around until it comes in. Find that magic spot where it gets most or all of the digital channels. Once you have 1 digital channel in good shape, then rescan for the others.

I have a HD antennae on a 15' pole on my root and still I need to use a signal amplifier to get all the stations in my area. You can get an amp at your local Radio Shack or any true electronics store.
 

dclark
Unregistered guest
Tom F. Thanks for the tip. Last night, I pushed the System Reset button, then channel search, and Bam..digital/HD signals came through. Most channels look great, but I did notice a little distortion on one or two channels. I didn't think I had to do a System Reset just to search for channels, but that's what solved the problem.

Question for you though...where is your amplifier located...close to the antennae or near the back of the tv. I have heard that amps work best close to the antennae, but if it does the job near the back of the tv, I will just put it there. Thanks!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 79
Registered: Dec-04
Yes, the preferred place is closest to the original signal -- closest to the antennae. However, if you don't have power near the antennae (like myself), it should be fine to put the amp near to the TV. If possible, try to keep the amp as far from the TV as you can to reduce RF interference. Even one or two feet away is better than none.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 80
Registered: Dec-04
BTW, I'm not sure why the system reset was necessary. While that may sound a bit unusual, it doesn't really surprise me. :-)
 

gardel28
Unregistered guest
I bought the WD52725 and a WD62725 in January of last year. I have not had any problems with either one of them, although we barely use the WD62725 as it is in a vac house. Question is, when I checked my firmware, I have firmware 4.03, what is the difference with the new one and how is it updated?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 81
Registered: Dec-04
Honestly, there aren't that many differences, and I couldn't tell you what they are. Bug fixes. Things work the way they should... or at least as good as they're going to. Updates are done by compact flash. Mitsubishi sends you the CF and you send it back following the update. Simple process.
 

gardel28
Unregistered guest
Thanks for the response, I guess I will just leave them alone since I haven't had any problems with them. Why mess with a good thing and possibly open up a can of worms!!
 

New member
Username: Edean6

Sachse, TX US

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-06
FYI: I had posted a problem with the video on Jan. 16 for a DLP big screen model WD-6275 (intermittant horizontal flat line) and was told the issue was not the TV,but the video card (or whatever you call the device used to replace cable boxes)provided by the cable company. The question this now prompts me to ask is...Are video cards used by cable providers problematic for other companies not including Time Warner?
 

Kevin O
Unregistered guest
Tonight I was watching FOX HD on a Mits WS-65517 with no problems. I changed the channel and tried to switch back, nothing, it will not even recognize that i'm changing the channel. If I enter the numbers and press enter it stays on whatever channel I'm on. The channel shows up in the guide but like wise if I select it there it merely goes back to whatever channel I'm on. I'll give an example to try and be little more clear. Here NBC is channel 13 (digital channel 9) If I enter the renamed channel number for 59 it does nothing but display the info about the current channel. If I enter 45 (the digital number for 59) the only thing I get is a message saying 9 has been renamed to 13-1)

If i do a system reset I can then enter the digital or analog number and get back to the digital channel but once I change channels i can never get back even if I switch to a new channel and just press the previous channel button it stays where its at. This seems to have just started happening today. Any ideas at all. Is ther e any kind of "harder" reset I cna do THis set is less than 3 Months old do I call Mitsubishi direct for service or find someone local.
Thanks
Kevin
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 82
Registered: Dec-04
From whom did you purchase your TV? Unless it's not a reputable dealer, most dealers provide a 1 year local warranty before you shift to Mits coverage. This problem doesn't sound like anything I've heard -- however, I don't know the Mits WS-65517. If a system reset doesn't fix it, I'd call your purchase store first and let them take care of it.
 

Anonymous
 
We have a WD-52725 that does not get channel 5. if we hook up any one of our three other Televisions to the exact same direct coaxial to our antenna we get channel 5 perfectly. That is I bypass all other components when comparing. Mits replaced two boards and said that was all they could do. But still no channel 5 on the Mits, but it works on the other tv's with the same hook-up. Did notice one odd thing, when I put channel 5 on the left side of PIP it is fuzzy, when it is switched to right side PIP it is perfect! This has all been relayed to Mits and they are promising a resolution this week. Anyone else?
 

New member
Username: Jgroves1945

West Chester, PA United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-06
I have a Mitsubishi 62525 and use Comcast for my cable provider. I have a HD cable box with DVR, and it has a DVI output. I bought a DVI/HDMI cable and ran it to my 62525, and ran an optical cable from cable box to my receiver for sound. That all worked fine. I just bought a new Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver this week that has HDMI inputs and outputs, and changed my config to run the DVI/HDMI cable from my cable box to my new receiver, then out via HDMI to the 62525. I also have a dvd player going into the receiver via component cables and then out to the tv via the HDMI cable. The pic from the dvd player goes thru fine, but not from the cable box. ??? What is strange is that if I bring up the GUI menu screen from the receiver on the tv, when I exit I get the tv pic to appear on the screen for maybe 5 seconds, then it disappears. I then added component cables for video from the cable box to the receiver then out to tv via the HDMI cable. When I do that I get the cable pic on the tv just fine. Finally, I unhooked the DVI/HDMI cable from the receiver and hooked it back into the HDMI slot on the tv, and voila... I get the cable pic just fine! I talked to Yamaha and they told me it must be a problem in how the Mitsubishi tv decodes hdmi signals. I then talked to the dealer where I bought my 62525 tv and they just tell me it must be a problem with the Yamaha receiver since I get the pic ok running it straight from the cable box to the tv.
Any ideas or advice greatly appreciated! This is exactly why a lot of people hate even buying this stuff!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 83
Registered: Dec-04
Wow, that's wild. I would tend to agree with your dealer. Do you have anything else that takes an HDMI input and can view or record it? You could try to replace the TV in this puzzle to eliminate the TV as the problem.

Then again, the easiest test case would be to swap out the receiver with another brand to see if you get different results -- and then return it. I hate to use the return policies as "try before you buy", but sometimes that's just too tempting.

HDMI is still reasonably new technology. A few kinks to work out as most haven't discovered the beauty of pure digital yet. So, I'd first try another receiver brand. Let us know how that goes...
 

New member
Username: Sonoma

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-06
i have a mits 62525 and i'm wondering if anyone has figured out how to use their pc/laptop wirelessly with the tv. i'm very happy with the set but would love to divorce myself from the pc cables....anyone? bueller?
on another front, i've just purchased (but not used yet) the video essentials disk for calibration, etc. i understand there's a disk called aria that also does sound calibration. how about some comments on these tools. i'm planning on doing the calibration in the next couple of days and would love some input.
thanks to all. i've found this forum to be very helpful and i appreciate the helpful, can-do attitude. thanks again.
scott
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 6
Registered: Sep-05
Would like to get a useful thread going on settings with similar setup

PLEASE post IDEAL cable connections.

Powerstrip command settings.

Mitsubishi TV settings.

PLEASE ADVISE!!

I had this setup working great not long ago, then updated the LATEST as of this date ATI drivers and put in a Fusion card. The output does not look that great as before and is not completely square on the screen. Needs to turn clockwise 10deg. Im using the 1200 X 666 setting as before.
Using DVI(ATI card) to HDMI(TV).

Also, using a Fusion HDT5 gold card and have noticed the Analog quality is not that great. Will try adding a preamp before going into card tonight.

Mitsubishi WD-62725
ATI Radeon 8500
Fusion HDTV 5 Gold tuner
DVI (Video card) to HDMI(TV) cable.
Windows XP-
Beyond TV -(Has anyone got the Fusion remote to work with this Beyond)?



Lets help each other ..

Feel free to also contact me.
============,,,================
===========(o o)===============
=======oOO==(_)==OOo===========

Mobile (512)589-3227
WilsonbATpobox.com
http://www.WilsonBradley.com
http://www.myspace.com/wilsonbradley
http://www.CallATS.com
AOL screen name; WilsonIsON
MSN - Wilsonbradley
=========ooooO==Ooooo==========
=========( )===( )==========
==========\ (====) /===========
===========\_)==(_/============ .
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 84
Registered: Dec-04
Wow, that's quite a signature you got there, Wilson.

While I'm a bit familiar with Powerstrip, I haven't used it for quite some time. My setup runs Linux with explicit dotclock settings. There may be someone here familiar with the configuration of Powerstrip to achieve 1200x666. Typically, the "not completely square" aspect you're trying to set is adjusted through Mits hardware settings. A Mits tech should be able to correct that. Toying with different refresh rates might also have a small affect, but probably wouldn't be where I'd start.

Has the quality of your Radeon 8500 gotten worse or you just trying to optimize the way it has always been? If you remove the tuner, does the quality improve? Interference issues? High quality video cable? I wouldn't think the PC display input would just "go bad", but the settings (including gun alignment) may need adjustment over time, even when not in use. Again, a Mits tech can help you there.

While I've used a few different tuners, I can't help you with the specifics of the Fusion card you have. Adding an amp could help. If you were on Linux, there are quite a few signal measuring tools. On Windows, maybe you could con your cable guy to measure the power level at your connection point when he comes out for some other "problem". :-) Sorry I couldn't help more.
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 7
Registered: Sep-05
What is the latest Firmware for the Mistubishi WD-52525 ? Is there another place to check for firmware updates?
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 8
Registered: Sep-05
TOM, Thanks for your input. Could you tell me what the latest firmware is for
Mitsubishi WD-62725 ?

I stand corrected for the video card, its a ATI X850.
I got it working better and clear, watched HD content I downloaded and looks good.

THE SQUARE /ROTATION PROBLEM;
Not sure if I could get a Tech to come out to work on it. Do you know were the adjustement for that is? I wouldn't have a problem opening it and doing it myself.(Im a hardware geek)
 

New member
Username: Wilsonb

Austin, Tx United States

Post Number: 9
Registered: Sep-05
Tom,

Also, Im not impressed with using Windows XP and BEyond TV as my option.
Is Myth TV, far beyond that?
I have a dual boot with Fedora Core 5. I heard Myth going on Fedora is a pain.
What are you thoughts?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 85
Registered: Dec-04
Hmm, latest firmware... good questions. Looks like Mits has changed their support site so that's hard to find. I have 4.05 installed still, and I haven't seen anyone discussing a new version... so I'd guess it's still the latest. Mits customer service could tell you. They're also the way to have a CF sent to you with the latest firmware. If you haven't installed your own firmware, I would recommend it anyway. That alone has solved quite a few problems that people have, even if they're overwriting the same version. Strange eh?

Regarding the various adjustments, they definitely aren't intuitive. Pop off the front speaker panel and then unscrew the front panel, but I don't recall enough to give you any specifics. It's been a while since I've watched it done. If you're still under warranty, I'd have a tech do it the first time and you watch closely. :-)

I toyed around with BeyondTV once a few years back and I most certainly wasn't impressed and gave up quickly. IMHO, MythTV is beyond anything available as far as a free Tivo replacement. Is it easy to set up? I'd say it's average, but it can be troublesome. I've probably set it up on 20 machines in the past few years and it seems to respond differently each time. I have it installed on three FC4 machines right now. I started with the pre-builts from ATRPMs, and then built it all myself. Getting the video to work just right is the roughest part. If you have any questions related to the Fedora install, I'd be happy to try to answer them.
 

New member
Username: Robuqi

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-06
Just purchased the Mitsu 62725 at Bozkov's. I got a great deal 1699.00 and 199.00 for the stand. Set it up no problem at all. All inputs work perfect and remote control is fine. Picture was fine tuned for my own preference and I couldn't be happier. I compared the set with Oliva's LCD models, other rear projections and plasmas. By far the Mitsubishi's picture is crisp, colorful and life like. I have the set hooked up to my computer which I do all of my video work and picture work with. I also have the Creative soundcard and use the DVD straight from the computer. With my graphics card all video looks movie theatre quality, I have a small set of Boston acoustic speakers hooked up as well as the tele speakers and it shakes the room. I see a lot of complaints about the mitsubishi here but I can say that I am extremely happy with my purchase. Oh, about the fans, I was wondering how loud they would be. Not really noticable at all. Thank goodness for Independence Day sales!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 86
Registered: Dec-04
More like... thank goodness for old models. The 1080p's are selling like hotcakes now, so they're trying to dump these things quickly. Excellent price, no doubt. Less than 1/2 what I paid 1.5 yrs ago.

If you've only recently purchased the unit, you've yet to discover the quirks. You will, or you're just not as picky as many of us.
 

New member
Username: Robuqi

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-06
Yeah, just not too picky. Now give me a choice between a couple of asian girls and ....
 

New member
Username: Robuqi

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jul-06
Oh, also got the 5 year full replacement warranty if there is and future problem, which I hope there is within the next 5 years! :-) So maybe Ill be lucky enough to get something like what you're talking about if I smell smoke and see disturbing electrical fires.
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-06
I just came home after a couple days away & my wife tells me our 62725 is on the fritz. Has sound but the screen is nothing but a stationary checkerboard. The menu won't even display. This happened a few weeks ago after my son had been playing xbox on the set the day before and I was able to reset the tv and all was well. My wife had to reset it again 4 days ago and was able to use the tv for one day but the next day it was out & would not reset. I tried unplugging it & resetting it several times but with no luck. The set is about two & half years old. Has anyone else had this problem? Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 88
Registered: Dec-04
Hello Elwood,
I have a problem with the tuner going out on me occasionally and I have to hit reset. That always fixes it for me... temporarily.

So the screen is showing a checkerboard pattern? That's odd. If reset does not fix it, then unfortunately I would tend to think you're only option is to call a repair tech. It doesn't sound like you've done anything wrong. I hope it's under warranty still.
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 3
Registered: Sep-06
Thanks for the response Tom. I just checked my receipt. Looks like I may have an xwar. Oh yeah and the purchase date was 1/30/05...my memory isn't what it used to be.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 89
Registered: Dec-04
Then I bought mine in the same month as you. Hopefully these TVs are intended to last longer than that. ;-)
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 4
Registered: Sep-06
I called Tweeter and they gave me a service appointment on the 20th. They said they would have the repair shop contact me for more info because whatever link they use to contact them was down at the time. Hopefully this is going to be relatively painless. Unfortunatly it looks like I'm without my TV for at least another week. I'll post back here when I get more info as to what went wrong.
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 5
Registered: Sep-06
Here's an update on my set. Service tech showed up on weds. Of coarse the call center at tweeter wrote up the repair order wrong. So even though I specifically stated that the bulb is lighting up but the screen is nothing but a stationary blk&wht checkerboard...the tech shows up with a replacement bulb. The tech took 5 mins to call Mits telling them the same thing I told the call center 10 days earlier and Mits diag the problem on the spot. According to Mits one of the pc boards is frozen and will need to be replaced. The tech placed the order for the part & now I will need to wait another 17 days for another appointment due to the tech being so overbooked. This will be a full month without my set. I am not pleased to say the least! Especially after dropping $5k on this thing only 18 months ago. I am happy I spent the $ for the xwar though and I can't blame the tech, he can only do so much. I'll keep you posted when I have more(hopefully better)news.
 

New member
Username: Nerrams

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-06
Off-topic model, but my WD-52525 did the same thing as Elwood's. I found this forum on a google search trying to find out what my problem was. Thanks for posting, Elwood!
 

New member
Username: Hockeymcnic

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-06
I purchased a WD-62725 in June of '05. Last night the Lamp indicator light came on and stayed lit (red) so I'm assuming this is only for a lamp replacement.
I did see earlier that someone was initially told the lamp would last about 5-7 years but theirs lasted only 14 months. Is this lifespan normal?
I did go to the store (ABT Electronics in Chicago) where I purchased the TV and got a replacement lamp, swapped it out only to have the red indicator light continue. I called Mitsubishi who told me that the lamp cartridges actually have a shelf life and that I should return the one I purchased from ABT and buy direct from them to ensure a "fresh" lamp. Price was relatively the same so I did this but has anyone ever heard of a shelf life for a lamp? and/or anyone heard of another problem that may be causing my indicator light to remain lit. Obviously I'm not getting a picture while this red indicator light is lit.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 90
Registered: Dec-04
Elwood,
Thanks for the update. Yes, the peace of mind associated with an extended warranty is nice. I think it's typical that they show up with a bulb -- they're looking for each easiest solution, especially if it means they don't have to open the innerds of your television. Lamb replacement is a breeze. I still need to call to have them come out and fix my box. I just never have time during business hours.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tbfox

Post Number: 91
Registered: Dec-04
Hello Tom,
What I've heard from others, the bulbs should typically last from 2-3 years with average usage. The question really is... what's average usage? 1-2 hours a day? I'm not sure. Some bulbs will last longer and some not so long. It also depends on whether you've adjusted the color "temperature" settings on your Mits. Mine has lasted 1.75 years so far, but I can definitely detect noticable reduction in brightness. I figured 2 years would be the break point for me before I call to have the bulb replaced. A bulb every 2 years isn't cheap, but consider that you could be contending with plasma replacement in a plasma TV -- not even a "real" option and some have been known to expire in 7 years. In your case, 1yr 2mon seems a bit short. Was your TV a store model? :-)
 

New member
Username: Hockeymcnic

Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-06
Tom F
Thanks for the response.
My set was a brand new one and I've been really happy with the set. Just disappointed that the lamp went out this quickly. I'm of the same opinion that it's still better than replacing a plasma after 7 years.
I never changed any of the color settings but I'll check it once I get my new lamp.
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 6
Registered: Sep-06
Here's the final update on my the repair of my set. It was repaired on Oct 6th. Sorry for the delay posting this, my Tel/DSL went out last week but that's another story. The tech replaced the video generation board that apparently had frozen up. It is located at the rear of the set on the LH side if you are looking at the rear of the set. If you were to look at the connections at the back of your set it's where you would connect your PC video input. The board is sandwitched between 2 others so it was a bit of a job to access and took a couple hrs for the tech to complete without ever having replaced one on one of these sets before. The set is now up and running so that was definatly the problem.
While the tech was here I also asked him about some dust spots that I had noticed prior to the set going on the blink. He went ahead & pulled the front panel/screen in order to access the mirrors for cleaning. He showed me that unlike most other manufacturers the Mits sets have the lower mirror mounted almost horizontally which makes them a great place for dust to settle. He showed me how to perform this simple operation so I can do it myself if I like. A helper is recommended for lifting the front off and back on again w/o damaging anything.
Well that's it, the set once again looks great and I have never been so happy about buying an extended warranty. Hope this info helps someone.
 

New member
Username: Nerrams

Post Number: 2
Registered: Sep-06
Hi Elwood-

Sears sent the same board to fix my 52525 (they wouldn't order it without a tech inspection either) but I couldn't get them scheduled again until 10/28. I've since gone in myself, so I know what you mean about hard to replace.

I'm stuck at the point you see in my attachment. Did you notice how he got this metal box out to get at the individual boards? I bought a service manual, but it didn't really help.

Thanks!

Upload
 

New member
Username: Elwoodb7

Post Number: 7
Registered: Sep-06
Hey Sean
I know he pulled the entire group as a unit and then had to disassemble them far enough to replace the faulty one. He mentioned that Mits uses a lot more shielding than other manufacturers which makes things a bit more difficult when it comes time for a repair. He was scratching his head a bit trying to figure it out since he had no manual and had never done this repair on one of these sets before. I also know there were plenty of screws of different sizes that all need to go back in the correct place. Even though he said he didn't mind I did not stand over his shoulder the entire time he was working because I think it is rude. Are you sure you want to tear into that thing while it's still under warranty? Although I know I am capable of performing a repair such as this I certainly wouldn't due to the risk of voiding the warranty. One small error could damage another component. And then where would you be? After the warranty is up it's another story.
 

New member
Username: Pillyboy

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-06
I purchased a WD-62525 in Sept. 2004. I have really enjoyed the TV overall. My lamp light came on about 7 months ago and I decided to wait and see how long it'd run without replacing. It made it a little over two years. I watch a lot of TV and often fall asleep with the TV on. I also work from home a lot and the TV may be on all day.

I noticed I was getting the smudges on the screen about a year ago. They've gotten worse with time. I called a technician out and he immediately said it was the DLP Light Engine. He replaced the engine (I have an xtended warranty from BestBuy). It appears there are a couple of minor smudges on the screen, but I can't be sure. I also saw him cleaning the lense on the DLP Light Engine (I assume before installing it, or, he just cleaned the old one and didn't replace it). Unfortunately, I had to leave the hosue for 1/2 hour and he was finished with the job. Overall I guess I'm happy about the smudges, but only time will tell.

One thing I've noticed is the brightness of the picture has increased tremendously! If you're letting your lamp run til the last minute like I did, you too will be impressed with the brightness increae after changing. Also, now the the light engine has been replaced, or cleaned, it also increased picture quality and brightness. I have two more years on the warranty, so hopefully I'll get another lamp replaced before then. Also, I bought mine at Best Buy, and they didn't question me on the light replacement, just sent out a new one that I replaced myself. The design is slightly different than the original lamp that I removed. I had to give it an extra nudge to get it installed. If your Best Buy ext. warranty is running out soon and you haven't replaced the lamp yet, I'd recommend you call them and tell them you get a message indicating it should be replaced soon. Get your replacement lamp before the unit fails.
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us