Samsung DLP will not turn off/no pic/sound

 

New member
Username: Tcnine

Kenner, LA United States

Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-05
OK, I've replaced all 3 moving parts on my 5065W, 2 fans and most recently the color wheel. Surprisingly the color wheel was not that hard to replace. Or so I thought. Ye repair gods have taken revenge!
After putting it back together, when powering on the TV I get the lamp light flashing as it appears to be warming up. Problem is, the TV never comes on. Also, when I go to turn it off via the ON/OFF switch on the TV, it won't turn off. I can see the two cooling fans running but obviously cannot see the color wheel spinning. The only wires I disconnected on the color wheel were the copper flat wire and the clip on top of the housing. The blue/white/white wire on the wheel housing with the really small clip I did not remove since I heard it was a pain. I was able to maneuver around it.
Could the new color wheel be faulty or do you think it is something more insidious or something really simple? How do I check?
Since the hurricane we only have 1 authorized Samsung service tech in the area and it will be mid-December before I can get an appointment.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Next TV will be LED, no color wheel!
Thanks!
Tom Collins
 

Silver Member
Username: Space_invader

Andromeda M31

Post Number: 130
Registered: Nov-07
Ok, try to get remove everything you have installed and do it all over again. It seems like something is not making contact and that may be why the color wheel is not moving. When the Tv failed, did it had similar problems?
 

Silver Member
Username: Space_invader

Andromeda M31

Post Number: 131
Registered: Nov-07
Is this your color wheel?
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Space_invader

Andromeda M31

Post Number: 132
Registered: Nov-07
It seems to be a electrical problem... check the board and power supply unit. Try to look for burned or unusual smells within. Be careful to disconnect the TV first!
 

New member
Username: Tcnine

Kenner, LA United States

Post Number: 10
Registered: Apr-05
The reason I replaced the original color wheel was because the bearing was bad. After the repair and I could not get the TV to work I thought of putting the original back in to see if I have a bad part but broke it when I knocked it off the shelf. The replacement color wheel looks just like the picture you posted but it came without the housing, just a wheel and the copper flat wire. That is why I didn't diconnect the blue/white/white wire on it. The blue/wh/wh wire parallels the copper one out of the back of the color wheel and plugs into a silver/metal vertical standing circuit board(?) on the side, just beneath the copper wire. Then there is another wire that clips into the color wheel housing on top.
Is there a sensor on the lamp access door? I know about the little switch on the lower right side of the back frame but I wonder if there is a switch in the door cover that I could have bumped. I agree. I am perplexed because it seems that it is just a connection but I have gone in and disconnected/reconnected everything that I touched.
Thanks for the help.
Tom Collins
 

Bronze Member
Username: Tcnine

Kenner, LA United States

Post Number: 11
Registered: Apr-05
OK. My fault. The sound DOES work. I had it incorrectly connected.
Still wondering what could be the problem with the picture.

Tom Collins
 

New member
Username: Rainman6279

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-07
Thomas,

Did you get this figured out? If so, share the solution because it is something I am dealing with as well. My LAMP LED flashes for a while and goes out, the lamp is lit though, then it powers off automatically.

Regards,

Ray
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