Archive through September 15, 2006
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 508 Registered: May-05 | Larry, It could be a color wheel or the DMD board. Sure sounds like a service call. I hope you purchased the extended warranty. You might try unplugging the set a few times to see if the DMD board recovers. Keith, Is the blackout happening on any input? Is the DVD doing it too? What video connection method are you using? If component try Comp 2. If DVI/HDMI try a set of component (Y, Pr, Pb) cables. I've had an analog board fail on me. This would affect a component video connection. Some folks have reported this condition when using a digital DVI/HDMI video connection. They switched to component cables and all was fine. |
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New member Username: KeithahortonBaton Rouge, LA United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-05 | Thanks for the response, FYI. It does it on all inputs that I have tried. I have a box from our cable company and it is plugged in via component cables. I also have the cable plugged directly into the tv on another input. Same story. The DVD player (through component) does the same thing. I called the local service guy and they said that it was the DMD board...again. In fact, that was what they replaced on it 2 days after we bought it. I was under warranty then. It is now 15 months old and out of warranty. Wish I could go back and buy the ext. warranty, but I guess I thought that if i spend $3500 on a TV it would last more than 15 months. Any ideas on where I can get an replacement for a good price? Do I need to have the service guy replace it? Does that sound like a legitimate diagnosis? Thanks in advance. Keith |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 527 Registered: May-05 | Call 1-800 SAMSUNG and tell them what's up. Let them know that this is the second failure of the "DMD board". They should have extended your warranty 90 additional days for the first replacement. Ask them if they can honor that. They should have your serial number and a record of the previous repair so they can do that for you. It's worth a shot. It may be that analog connection board. It sounds like you have everything connected with analog cables. It would be nice if you had a device you could try the DVI/HDMI digital connection with. If you have a VHF/UHF off-air antenna you could try the "AIR" input and see if the tuner feed does the same thing. You know, something that bi-passes the only connection method you are using just to see if the problem is actually the DMD and affects everything. Otherwise, there's this guy on eBay that has DMD boards, color wheels, and lamps for reasonable prices. Almost anything in the set is owner replacable. I can provide default numbers for the CCA settings should you have to go that route. http://cgi.ebay.com/SAMSUNG-LAMP-BULB-DMD-color-wheel-parts-fix-repair-DLP_W0QQi temZ5844125386QQcategoryZ61407QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem |
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New member Username: Ace1476Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-05 | New Samsung DLP 5063W problem here that I haven't seen posted before (I could have missed it). I am having problems with my Component inputs. Everything is green and red. First it was just Component 2, but has now spread to Component 1 also. I have ruled out cable problems as well as loose connections at the components themselves. Also ruled out the lamp. Picture tests fine with HDMI and S-video, so I can only assume it is the Component inputs themselves. I opened the back of the TV and see these plug into a relatively flimsy circuit board assy, but no visible damage here. I have had to plug and unplug these tight component cables several times, so I am thinking I damaged this board somehow. Any thoughts before I pay through the nose to have a tech come out? No ext. warranty. Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: Ace1476Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-05 | For clarification to my previous post, this is not a new TV, just a new problem. TV is 14 months or so. |
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New member Username: Shwing2345Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-05 | I am having a problem with my Samsung HLN507W. I replaced the color wheel and everything was working fine for about 5 minutes. I accidently unplugged the power cable. When I plugged it back it in, it was still normal until I plugged in my HD receiver. The screen shifted upward and to the left. There's a black bar on the bottom and to the right of the screen. I tried to make adjustment in the service menu, but it didn't work. I also made some adjustment to the three screws in the back where the DMD board is, but it still didn't work. Help!! How do I center my screen? I don't know what caused it. |
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pg828 Unregistered guest | I have a Samsung hl-r4266w...its about a month old. Suddenly, this morning, the set has started to turn itself off. When it does, the lamp light is blinking and the Standby light is on. Any ideas? |
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New member Username: KeithahortonBaton Rouge, LA United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Dec-05 | FYI - Thank you sooooo much for your help. I am going to try something digital and see. I have setup a "case" with samsung and we will see what happens. And if none of that works, I will contact the ebay person. You are a Godsend as far as that goes. Much love to you, bro. Keith |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 529 Registered: May-05 | Ken, It's the analog board. Could be just a cold solder joint on the blue circuit. Tapping on it should cause it to go in and out. It's not the DMD as other inputs are working. Shwing, Unplug and replug a couple of times. Is it happening on all inputs? DVD too? pg828, Sounds lamp related. Unplug and replug. See if it comes on. If it does, leave it on 24/7 until it fails and you have a replacement on hand. Keith, Good luck! |
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pg828 Unregistered guest | Hi... Samsung service came to the house and replaced the entire DLP engine in my HLR4266. Said my problem with the tv shuting off after 15 minutes was due to the fact that the board had become defective (Possibly due to the tv being turned back on before it had a chance to cool off?!). He also said that Samsung will directly offer an extended service program. Has anyone gotten this? And if so, whats your experience been? Thanks |
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Joe luvs his HD Unregistered guest | K, guys, I just bought the DLP 4266W and i have a component 2 issue, here goes: HD Cable box DVD surround sound Samsung TV I have regular audio connected from Cable to DVD so I have surround sound for both my cable and DVD play, no problem with audio. Now I have component from cable to TV (component 1) and component from cable to DVD (component 2) FOR SOME REASON MY HD CABLE WORKS FINE ON #1 BUT #2 SHOWS WEAK SIGNAL BUT I STILL HEAR THE DVD SOUND PERFECTLY. so when i want to view dvds i switch connections and then HD cable is a WEAK SIGNAL, really odd, what am i doing wrong??? I called Samsung and they had a few suggestions as setting up in menu component #2 as DVD, but no luck there. Will have to call again, but anybody have any suggestions?? |
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Just wondering Unregistered guest | Have you tried going HDMI from the cable box to the set and then use the optical audio output from the tv to the home theater? |
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Joe luvs his DLP Unregistered guest | I'll give it a shot, thanks But this still won't explain why component 2 is not working at all |
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ddlutz Unregistered guest | I just bought an HLR-4266W DLP tv run with a DirecTV H10-250 with TIVO. The HD channels look great, but the regular channels look worse than on my old tv. The old tv was a Sony 36" WEGA CRT. DLP4me and I think another poster talk about using component connections on a different input for the regular definition channels. I tried this (I think) and I get a message on the screen about "no or weak signal". Any other input about how to improve the picture on regular channels? Also, could this TV be literally giving me a headache? |
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rueful bob Unregistered guest | i just got a hl-r5067w and i'm severly dissapointed with how it displays ps2 & xbox games and dvd's (even with progressive scan turned on). the ps2, xbox, and dvd player are all connected with component cables but there is still a shameful amount of visual noise (yes, digital NR is turned on) and poor diagonal line drawing (diagonal lines look like very steep stairs). is this just because dlp displays more detail than the ps2/xbox/dvd pumps out? should i revert back to s-video cables? on the plus side, the colors are crazy good and i bet this thing displays hi-def media like no one's business. anyways, please help. i spent a lot of money on this thing and i'd hate if it was all for naught. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 573 Registered: May-05 | Old game boxes were made for CRT sets. Your new high def tv is scaling poor game box signal to 720P. Live with it until PS3 comes out or you get xbox360, which has HD signal outputs. That or stay in the CRT stone age. I didn't by my multi-thousand dollar HD set to play games. I bought it to enjoy HD 720P and 1080i broadcasts. It does that flawlessly! |
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rueful bob Unregistered guest | fyi- i understand that games that don't run in 720p will look bad. the problem is that xbox games that DO run in 720p look bad (or not as good as they should look). i found that they look better when my xbox is on the default setting (i.e. i tell it that my tv doesn't display 480i, 720p, or 1080i). same thing with my dvd player: the quality is horrendous, even with progressive scan on. i see tons of visual noise and even some large pixelation on brighter settings (i assume that's the component cable's fault). i've tested the dvd player with different component cables and i get the same result. i've played dvd's on my xbox and they look a little better but still not as good as they should look. so are my xbox and dvd player not sending out the appropriate hi-def signal, even on 720p and progressive scan? btw thanks for your input  |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 584 Registered: May-05 | Something isn't right. My DVDs are almost HD quality with a cheap DVD player. All my connections are component (Y, Pr, Pb). Many xbox owners are blown away with the experience on the R67. I don't know what's up with your set or setup. The only thing I could recommend is to take your xbox to a store and hook it up for comparison. Maybe you have a mis-adjusted light engine. |
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Unregistered guest | i bought a samsung DLP HL-P5063W last february .i would like to know how can i find out how much lamp life left on my DLP?i have heard earlier models had a feature where you could find out this but not the new models .can someone help me on this ? |
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marcie Unregistered guest | my samsung DLP HLN 5065W works fine when i turn it on but after 2 hours it starts flashing in psychadelic way. Common problem? symptom is very different from when i replaced lamp 1.5 year ago. It looks more like a reception problem and i was cosidering it was the directv dvr receiver but now believe it is tv......... anybody sure and know what i need? |
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marcie Unregistered guest | my samsung DLP HLN 5065W works fine when i turn it on but after 2 hours it starts flashing in psychadelic way. Common problem? symptom is very different from when i replaced lamp 1.5 year ago. It looks more like a reception problem and i was cosidering it was the directv dvr receiver but now believe it is tv......... anybody sure and know what i need? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 600 Registered: May-05 | sirimevan, With tv off, using the remote, push mute, 1, 8, 2, power. Set comes on saying "Factory Loading" and up comes the first service menu. Arrow down to "Options" and push "Enter". The lamp hours and reset are in this menu screen. Don't use the left or right arrows as you will change a value or reset the meter. To exit just power off. marcie, Sounds like a DMD control module. It might just be heating up due to a dirty or malfunctioning cooling fan. Hope you have an extended warranty. |
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skeeboy Unregistered guest | I have an Hlp5063w & the picture has gotten "oily". The problem exists only when watching through my DirecTV HD/Tivo receiver. The picture from the DVD via HDMI is perfect. Warranty facility said that Samsung basically sent a whole new set to put in my cabinet. After waiting for over 2 months for parts, got it back last night only to find out it's doing exactly the same as when it left my house. Needless to say, I'd like my set to work. Any experience with this sort of problem? |
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Unregistered guest | thank you FYI.i have another question of my HLP-5063W.it is connected with a samsung HD-841 dvd player.for about 3 months i have noticed 2 white patches ,one below center and the other below that, towards bottom of center.i see this soon as i on the tv and when it`s on dvd screen saver.but when there is a picture through dvd or my cable box i don`t see this .should i be concern about this and call samsung to check it out or it is not that of a importance ? |
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Unregistered guest | I have aproblem with samsung SP50L7HXX/XSG whose colors are not good. after 20 min a red color is over spread on the whole picture specially on the black color. DMd and DIGITAL PCB have been replaced . new Lamp Fitted, DVI cable OK Fault still existing Please help me to remove my stress. |
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DaSamsungLova Unregistered guest | I have the Samsung HLR5067W. Love my set. However, I just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this problem. I am using a HDMI cable and all was well, until a couple of days ago. My HDMI Input has malfunctioned. I thought it might have been the cable, but I bought another cable and the same blue fuzzy picture appeared. I think it's just that something loose somewhere or something, but has anyone else experienced problems with their HDMI inputs? |
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Unregistered guest | DaSamsungLova, i am using my HLP-5063w with samsung HD-841 dvd player which has a DVI output.but DVI port of my tv is used with the cable box.so i use an adopter with my HDMI cable to connect the dvd to tv.but for smoetime, when i am watching a dvd i have lost the signal.this does not happen everytime i watch a movie.but when it happens i switch off the dvd for few minute and start again.then i have my dvd signal back .i go to disc menu & find the place i stopped the movie & continue.i was thinking that i am using a HDMI cable with a DVI adopter is the reason for this problem.but few days ago when i was watching a dvd i had a meteorite shower(blue color)on my screen.i thought it must be the fault of the disc as it happed almost at the end of the movie. this has happened twice so far,second time more than the first time .i have not changed any cables yet .as i have two more dvd`s connected to my tv via component1 & 2.after reading your problem i see that i may be heading towards the same problem .anyhow i will update. |
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New member Username: Dingo483072001Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | I bought the Toshiba 52" DLP and took delivery yesterday. After about 4 hours of watching, my eyes became sore to the point that I had to put ice bags on them. I also was very annoyed by the color flashes, or prisms that were constantly appearing. I watched it with a friend and he never saw a single prism. The soreness around my eyes made me nauseous and dizzy. The next morning I tried again and had a headache as soon as I turned the tv on. I talked to the salepeople at ABC Warehouse and they never heard of such a thing. |
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New member Username: ZaldwaikPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | I am very disappointed with my HLN-507W. After about eighteen months, now it seems like the lamp is out. It has been doing the following for about two weeks: Turn TV on, middle led blinks, then it turns off, then tries again, then all 3 leds will start blinking. So far, all I did was unplug and then plug, and the problem would go away. However, now the TV will not start, I can hear the sound during the initial blinking phase, but no picture. Eventualy no picture, or sound and all leds are blinking. There is no way I used this TV for 5000 hours (lamp life stated in the brochure). It appears to be the lamp, but how did it work for two weeks if the lamb was defective? Is there a way to confirm that it is the lamp before I go and spend $300 on a new one? Thanks for your help |
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New member Username: ConstpPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-06 | Does anyone know if the light bulbs for BP96-01073A and BP96-00826A are interchangeable? They are both listed for quite a few of the HLRXXXX and they both use Philips 120W bulbs. The reason I'm asking is that I have a HLP5063 which takes the 00826A assembly, but I have the opportunity to get a 01073A assembly at a really good price. I would get it if I could take the bulb out and put it in my assembly. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 636 Registered: May-05 | Sorry constp! The 826A is a round enclosed design. The 01073A is a square vented design. It actually has a hole straight through it. Obviously, the mounts are completely different. What do they call a really good deal? I got mine on ebay for $159 shipped. |
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New member Username: ConstpPost Number: 3 Registered: Mar-06 | Thank you FYI, I'm not sure if you are referring to the assembly being completely different or the light bulb. I suspected that the assemblies would be different (it can be seen in the pictures). However, I just want to use the bulb, not the whole assembly. I read a while ago on some other board (can't remember now which) someone suggesting that only the light bulb can be changed. I am getting this from a friend of a friend who had an HLR5667 and had the assembly as a spare. He returned the TV and now has no use for this lamp assembly. The reason I thought it would work is that both assemblies are listed for the HLR5667 and so I thought the light bulbs must have the same wattage. |
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Bronze Member Username: MaulratPhoenix Post Number: 12 Registered: Jul-05 | Hey FYI, Ive tried searching ebay- as you recoomended to me sometime back- for just the bare lamps for the BP96-00826A lamp assembly, but havent had any luck in finding. Do you maybe have any leads on just the bare lamps? Or maybe even a part number for the lamp minus the housing? ANy help is appreciated. Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 637 Registered: May-05 | constp, I'm talking about the actual glass lamps being different. The wattage is the same, but a housing for a round lamp won't hold a square lamp. Maulrat, There was a guy on there selling 100 watt Phillips rounds for $100, but I guess he sold out. The 224 C's and J's use the same lamp as the 826A. They have been selling for less than $100 lately. There are a few on ebay right now. |
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New member Username: ConstpPost Number: 4 Registered: Mar-06 | Thank you for the clarification FYI. I'll start searching ebay for a replacement bulb. Mine has almost 2000 hrs on it and I'd like to have a replacement ready just in case. |
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Bronze Member Username: JumpbackPost Number: 71 Registered: Nov-05 | Hey, new here to Samsung thread. Have been messing around with RCA problems so long I thought that I would purchase one of three sets: HL-R6768W, HL-R6168W, HL-R6167W. Any thoughts? What is the difference between the two 61" sets? Is it just the digital sound and the pixel thingy? (I have zero tech knowledge). Anyone have the 67"? I have a two month old Sammy 32"HDLCD and it is a nice little set so I thought for our main tv viewing I would get another so your input will help. Thanks |
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New member Username: BigbriPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-06 | I need some serious Samsung help here. I purchased an HLN4365 back in November of 2003. Love it and have had zero problems up until last month. After about two hours of use the screen begins to flash, slowly at first and then continues to worsen. Thought maybe it might have to do with heat. Could use some advice. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 639 Registered: May-05 | Jumpback, Get the 6168. The 1080P resolution is much better on a 61 inch screen. I have the 5067 with 720P resolution, which is fine for a 50 inch screen. Brian, Could be heat. These cooling fans need to be cleaned every 6 months at least. The brushy attachment to your vac hose works best. Hope it's not too late for your DMD module. |
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New member Username: BigbriPost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-06 | Thanks FYI for the prompt and appreciated advice! Love your posts btw very informative. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 643 Registered: May-05 | Your welcome! Thanks for the kind words! Best regards! |
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New member Username: MontyburnsPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-06 | Hi everyone -- I've had my samsung 50-incher for a few months now and have not had a problem. I recently got a home theater system, and hooked it up with the optical output. I'm getting sound fine through the home theater system. However -- in the Sound setup on the TV, it will not allow me to change it from PCM to DOLBY. The option is grayed out. The internal mute is on. My home theater won't let me use the "dolby" features I think because the TV isn't set to "Dolby." Anyone know how I can get this to work? I apologize if this has already been documented on the web, I just haven't seen it anywhere. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 655 Registered: May-05 | Monty, The tv's Dolby sound settings only affect the internal ATSC tuner. They have no effect on other inputs to the set. If the ATSC tuner is not receiving a Dolby broadcast or any signal it may grey out the sound adjustment. If you use a cable or sat box your sound should go digital coax or optical straight to the HT receiver. If you use the internal ATSC tuner you should have the optical from the set connected to the HT receiver. It's never a good idea to pass external audio through the set other than that received by the internal tuner . As far as audio inputs, the set cannot process anything but stereo and doesn't process audio inputs to sync with the video, either. Hope this helps. |
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New member Username: MontyburnsPost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-06 | FYI, I think I see what you're saying. I followed the TV's manual, and left all of my components hooked up to it and then connected to the HT system via optical. You're saying I should hook all of my components to the HT and then just run a video cable from the HT to the TV. Am I understanding you? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 656 Registered: May-05 | You can do that if you want. Another option is to take all video to the set and all audio to the receiver. You don't have to use the receiver for video. Some do it to simplify input switching to just the receiver's remote. The bottom line is not to run external sound through the set. Remember, only a digital coax or optical audio connection can carry Dolby. Red and white RCA will carry stereo only. |
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New member Username: MontyburnsPost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-06 | FYI, Thanks for your help. I tried it your way and it is working out well. I'm running all video to the TV and audio to the HT receiver. One last question: my DVD player and the Samsung have HDMI ports, but my HT receiver does not. Should I run the HDMI from the DVD to the TV, and then run optical (for audio) from the DVD to the receiver? I know HDMI handles both audio and video, so I wasn't sure what the "best practice" was in this case. Sorry for all the questions, but I appreciate the help. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 657 Registered: May-05 | Yes! That's how mine is hooked up. I don't use HDMI for audio because the set won't pass the Dolby signal through. Glad it's working out for you. Best regards! |
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New member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-06 | Does anyone have this problem? I bought a samsung HLR-5067W yesterday. When the TV is off, I see a white/gray shadow some where between the middle and top of the TV, and also a horizontal gray line on the top of the shadow. Is this normal or there is a problem with the screen? Thanks |
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New member Username: Dm3557Kyle, TX United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-06 | Samsung HLN617WX The component inputs (all three) work for a few minutes, then they flicker out (literally) and they don't work for a few days. I verified it was the TV by using a different HD cable box. The ANT and S-Video inputs work fine, it's just the Component inputs. Thanks for any help. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 661 Registered: May-05 | Assia, It's normal. David, You need to replace the analog board. |
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New member Username: Dm3557Kyle, TX United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-06 | Thanks FYI for the quick response! Is this a major job, or is something a consumer could do? On a minor side-note: I had gotten an extended warranty with the TV (purchased 09/2004), but I didn't register on the company's website until this week and I now have to wait a year before the extended warranty goes into effect. Buyer beware of Tech Pro Warranty. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 664 Registered: May-05 | It's not a major job. It's the actual board that the connectors are on. If you call 1-800-SAMSUNG prompts 2, 1, 3, 1 they will help you with an authorized service center that can get you the part. However, you have legal rights to your warranty service regardless of the rules they want you to play by. You can be persistent and threaten to report them to the BBB, Consumer Affairs, the Texas Attorney General's Office, the media, the press, etc. and they may put your problem to rest quickly to avoid the hassle. Myself along with many others have had success being the squeaky wheel. Also, the company that sold you the set and/or warranty can apply pressure as well. They don't have to offer Pro Tech. |
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New member Username: MontyburnsPost Number: 4 Registered: Apr-06 | FYI -- I apologize for the late response, but I just wanted to thank you again for your help a few (long!) weeks ago. My system is set up and humming sweetly. I really appreciate all of your assistance and advice. Thanks again! |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 683 Registered: May-05 | Glad to help, Monty. Humming sweetly sounds good. Best regards! |
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New member Username: LouijasPost Number: 1 Registered: May-06 | fyi, I have an issue very similar to Midwest's post on 9/2005. I am not sure if it's related, but when a buddy a HLN 50' user, came by 4 nights ago. He said the boot brightness was very dim. To me, it always took about a minute to get to full brightness. I've had the HLP 6163 for two years now. Probably a over 5000 hours of viewing. I could also hear a oscillating fan noise. (bad color wheel?) I was watching TV two nights ago, and I heard a SNAP. Immediately the screen went blank, but I could hear audio from the Comcast component input. The green lamp light began blinking, while the tv decided to reboot. I could hear the fan start up, but after 15 seconds, it would reboot itself. I watched it happend two more times before i tried to power off via bezel button. Neither the bezel or the remote will power it down. I was success by holding it down for a long time, but it could be that I hit 4 or 5 reboots by then. And I saw the dreaded 3 Blinking Lights of Death. Still the next power on, via bezel, got me the same problems. I could only power off via unplugging the tv. Now by reading a bit here and an AVS, I believed the culprits were the bulb or the color wheel. In my haste, I ordered both thinking that by now I needed to swap them both out. Could it be the ballast or a board? I ask because I just want my tv up asap. Samsungparts.com shows a 5 day ship time. As for the wheel, I hear a noise that might be from a fan, but it's very loud, and probably won't come from a dirty fan. I don't mind replacing it, since I got the service manual with my shipment. I really hope it's not an expensive board. I didn't get an EW. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 697 Registered: May-05 | It could have been a lamp blowing, Jason. I'd go ahead and take the back off. Find the cover kill switch and tape it closed. Power up the set and listen for where that noise is coming from. A color wheel usually whines or squeals if the bearing is going out. If you heard a different kind of oscillating sound it could be that one of the color panels of the wheel was coming loose. I've heard of that happening. The "snap" could have been the panel flying off and striking something. I've heard of a lamp making a muffled popping sound, but not a "snap". Anything is possible. Take a look around. See if the two fans are running silently. Clean things up with a vac hose while your in there. I don't suspect a ballast or a board. Your on the right track. It doesn't take much effort to move some wiring harnesses, remove a few screws, and slide the light engine back a little if you need some room to remove the color wheel. Sounds like you got some good life out of your lamp. You will probably be shocked at the renewed picture quality when you get it back together. Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes. |
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New member Username: LouijasPost Number: 2 Registered: May-06 | I ordered the parts on Samsungparts.com last night and paid for 3 day Air. Tonight i get the confirmation for 2 Day Air DHL delivery. |
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New member Username: LouijasPost Number: 4 Registered: May-06 | Well the parts arrived yesterday. I held off on opening the back panels until I got the shipment. When I pull the back panel off, I tried to tape down the kill switch. I think it's the blue bi-directional switch. I didn't know which way to tape it, but it seemed to turn on with it on any of the three spots. *shrug* I can see what appears to be a cpu fan spinning. I could not located a second fan. All of the pc boards around the door have green lights on. I didn't look through the manual long enough to determine where the color wheel is located, nor the second fan. Next I took out the lamp, and sure enough, it had blown. The filiment was dislodged, and there lots of crystal bits at the bottom of the bulb. The replacement unit must be a revision. It has a much smaller bulb, about half the diameter. Before inserting the replacment, vac'd any dust from the pc board near the door, as well as the door itself. After I was done, the tv booted quickly, and brightly. I don't recall the picture availability occuring this fast. It was about 15 seconds till initial picture. Within 30 seconds, it was at full brightness. I did notice a degredation in HD signal pq. I am using a comcast unit in 1080i with component inputs. I didn't make any adjustments to the pq, but by my eye and that of of my dad, it is much more blurry. Also, we noticed artifacts in moving pictures. The are more apparent on white colors, or white colors with varying grandient. I also ordered a HDMI to DVI cable along with the order. It was somethign I never got around to buying. I'm told this is the correct cable to use with the Comcast Moto unit. The previous DVI to DVI cable was not compatible. Could the lower pq come from a degrading color wheel or the mirrors? I'm debating the idea of even changing the wheel or returning it for a refund. Oh. i got into the service menu and reset the bulb life, which was at 6438 hours. That was definately more than my estimate of 5000. Pls advise. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 703 Registered: May-05 | Sounds like success! Congrats! The brighter lamp lumins are showing you the inferior cable signal flaws more than you were used to. A new lamp takes a hundred hours or so to settle in. Some contrast and/or brightness adjustment may help. I prefer to get my local network HD channels from an off-air antenna. They are perfect and even better, they are free. The 61 inch is pretty big for a 720P enlargement of standard definition. I hope you have the ability to sit back 12-15 feet from it. A good HD signal should look perfect, even close up. Your cable box should be set to "pass through" any resolution format. It has a menu you can access to make the adjustment. If "pass through" isn't an option, set it to 720P. That is the native resolution of your P6163 set. The reason for this is to reduce scaling and processing. For instance, ABC digital transmits in 720P. Your cable box is scaling it to 1080i. Your set is accepting the 1080i, but scaling it back to 720P because that's the only resolution it's made to display. It's the same, only worse, for a regular 480i cable channel. The cable box is scaling it to 1080i before your set scales it to 720P. Too much processing degrades the signal quality. Call your cable company for instruction on accessing the box's menu. Sometimes you can push menu with the box off to get in there. What about that oscillating noise? Did it disappear? Obviously, the color wheel is working. By the way it sits in front of the lamp. There's a fan for the lamp and another for the DMD control module. If the color wheel wasn't making the noise you heard or any other high pitched sounds I'd keep using it until it does. I wouldn't return the new one, though. You will eventually need it for sure. It's great to here the old lamp lasted that long. |
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New member Username: Jkenyon21Post Number: 2 Registered: May-06 | im looking at a samsung hl-r5656w at costco. any info? thanks, JOHn |
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New member Username: ConstpPost Number: 6 Registered: Mar-06 | Hi John, Although I don't have the HL-R5656W, I have purchased two Samsung DLP sets from Costco in the past. Initially I purchased an HLN model which I exchanged about a year later for an HLP model. I then ended up returning this set because of many problems which Samsung was unable/unwilling to repair. The point is that Costco has an excellent return policy: if you're not happy with the set for any reason you can return it. I would recommend Costco for such large purchases, especially in light of the horrible Samsung customer/technical support (in my case at least). |
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New member Username: Usmarine30Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | i to have to a prob;em with pip i'm hooked up through hdmi from the cable box to the tv. the 2nd tuner goes from the wall directly to the air tuner but it doesnt work what if anything am i doing wrong |
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New member Username: KenaconlonPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | Purcahased a Samsung HLS5087W This weekend and hooked up a direct tv h20-100 box to it. Got the direct tv unit the day before. Component works fine in every resolution but when i go to hdmi the signal will only work in the 480i and 480p when i goto the higher resolutions the picture will pop on and off forever. This happens only at 720 and 1080 it will be on for about 2 seconds then go black and come back on. I just ordered a new Hdmi cable hoping its that. Ive seen where its been the direct tv h20-100 unit. Is it possible its the tv when component works and why does the lower res work on the hdmi with no blinking? Any help is appreciated. I do not feel like packing this tv back up to take back to the store. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 715 Registered: May-05 | Sounds like the H20 receiver to me. An upconverting DVD player with HDMI output would be an excellent test of the set. |
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New member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 10 Registered: Apr-06 | I have a HLR-50 which i purchased a month ago. the screen has a big gray/white spot. I had the tech come and looked at it and he said the screen is defected. I bought it from Best Buy and I purchased 4 yr extended warranty. However, they are not willing to fix the screen and I cannot exchange it for the same model becs it has been discontinued. I need to get another set. Any adivse? they have HLS-50 models out and I have to pay some extra money to get that one. How about Sony WEGA rear proj LCD? is it any better? Pls help. thanks |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 717 Registered: May-05 | I don't know why "they" won't repair ( BB service sucks), but 1-800-SAMSUNG is the responsible party and they will replace any defective part for 1 full year or fifteen months if you register online. However, if BB is offering an exchange, do it! Get the HL-S5087W. It will knock your socks off! Don't even think about an inferior WEGA! |
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New member Username: KenaconlonPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-06 | It Was the h20-100 causing me the problems with the hdmi input. They sent me an h20-600 which works fine and i have to say watching the NBA finals tonight was like being at the game this samsung hls5087w has the best picture ive seen. Its awesome. |
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New member Username: PhilipjhPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | I turned on my samsung dlp today and the color balance is all messed up...everything is purple and green. All channels. Any ideas. Thanks, Phil |
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New member Username: KenaconlonPost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-06 | Well after having bad problems with my h20-600 regarding lip sync issues in hd and a very hot unit.... I called direct tv again and they sent me out another unit this time being another h20 100 and not to my suprise its doing the same thing my original h20 100 did. The hdmi connection blinks on and off. I called direct tv and the told me too bad you have to live with it just use the component connection its just as good there will be an upgrade for this problem. I said what? I want a new unit. After much discussion i finally got a supervisor on the phone and she said she would not send me out a new unit till she had a tech come out and check it. I said fine. But it seems to be that the issue with h20 100's and samsung tv's must be commonplace. Does anybody out there have an h20 100 that works on their samsung specifically the hls5087? The 600 worked fine on hdmi and my panasonic upconverting dvd player works fine as well with hdmi. Thanks.... |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-06 | Suggestions for an inexpensive home theater system to use with my Samsung HLR4266W? Want to input HDMI signal from my cable box to the home theater A/V unit and output HDMI signal to the TV. Suggestions welcome. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 801 Registered: May-05 | I don't know of any HT receivers that have HDMI connections. Most all use digital coax or digital optical audio connections. I'm using an Onkyo with a .08 THD and 85 watts per channel. It seems to be plenty of punch for my Cerwin Vega floor speakers. Yamaha has some excellent low cost receivers too. |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-06 | Found the answer to my own question I posted two days ago. Sony has an inexpensive system [Sony Home Theater System (HT-DDW900)] with two HDMI inputs and one HDMI output. Can now hook up my cable box to the Sony and the Sony to my Samsung TV, all with HDMI cables. Inexpensive too, $249 at Circuit City and Amazon.com. Also found an inexpensive source for HDMI cables for about $6 each at monoprice.com. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 803 Registered: May-05 | kewl! |
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New member Username: Ramrod02San Diego, CA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-06 | I'm new to this site and hope to get an answer to the problem I have with my new dlp tv. I have a Samsung model HL-S5087W that I bought online from ibuydigital.com. The picture coming through is great but I seem to be having some discoloration in the picture. I have already sent back one tv and received another new one from the company because of this problem. The first one had about 2 inches of the bottom left corner "grayed out". It never went away no matter if the tv was off for a day or by flickering it on/off numerous times. When I received a second one, it had been working perfectly for the first week. But now I'm having almost the same problem by the bottom corner having some grey spotting covering about 6 inches. The tv is sitting above a propane "fake" fireplace with about 4 light switches sitting 8-10" away on the opposite side of a 4" thick wall. The cable box sits on the right side of the tv, far away from the side with the problem. There is also a surge protector behind the set as well. Other than this, nothing is there that might cause a problem. Anyone have suggestions?? Are Samsung products know to have this defect? Or is the ledge I have this set not a good place to store it on? Any help is appreciated. |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Aug-06 | Darrin: I think your picture is wrongly positioned on the screen, and needs to be moved down. Call Samsung Technical Service and a technician will walk you through the steps to do this. |
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New member Username: GmfPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-06 | hlm43... with no history known. black screen, startup blinks, resets 3 times, 3 blinking lights=bad lamp replace lamp same situation (no visible damage on either lamp, when test resistance accross poles no connection...do these lamps require an electric arc in lieu of filament to complete circuit ?) assume it is ballast...replace ballast same situation. any ideas or is next step too much for an early model set ? thanks. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 808 Registered: May-05 | "electric arc in lieu of filament to complete circuit ?" Yes! There are thermal protection circuits, which will disable the ballast. It could be the lamp fan that's bad or it could be a failed color wheel. I'd replace the fan first. |
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New member Username: Tomas090Portland, Maine Usa Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-06 | OUCH I tried to see how much time the lamp on my 5-6 week old TV had on it, using Mute 182 power and came up with lamplife 1049 hours. That is over 23 hours per day at worst? I use TV about 6-8 hours per day, it was not open box or anything? Should I get a Tech to look at this SAMSUNG HL-s5686w |
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New member Username: Ramrod02San Diego, CA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-06 | I tried resetting the tv according to what the Samsung representative said to do (pressing the power button 10 times with the power cord unplugged) and the fuzzy blackness is still present. I was thinking that it may need to be degaussed, but I don't know what that would do to a DLP if it's even safe? I guess I'll find out what the Samsung tech says next week when he comes out and takes a look at it. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 809 Registered: May-05 | Tom, It was left on somewhere before you got it. I'm not sure I'd worry about it, though. These new Phillips lamps are pretty tough. If you registered your serial number with Samsung online you're covered for 15 months anyway, lamp included. Darrin, Uhhhh...it's not an electron gun picture tube. That benign polymer screen only displays projected light. Magnetic fields have no effect. You're thinking "old tv" and DLPs don't operate anything like an old set. It's the DMD Controller or the light engine itself. |
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New member Username: JnazPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-06 | Please Help, I have a p6163 and have a serious whinning problem. And just this evening the Tv will only come on for 30 seconds. I know it is the color wheel, I just don't know how to get to it? Do I remove that metal plate in front of the lamp. Pleae help. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 811 Registered: May-05 | Yea...it sits in front of the lamp. Just remove a couple of screws and two wire harnesses. Watch how it comes out and install the new one without touching the wheel. |
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New member Username: JnazPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-06 | How do you get the color wheel out, I can't get to the back screw. Do you take the top of the tv off(the screen? I am just trying from the back, and it is not very easy |
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New member Username: Acs65Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-06 | Hello. I just bought a Samsung 5687W. I have connected the RCA HDTV antenna (air) to it for now. I tried connecting the optical digital output to my Home Theater Digital Input, but I could not get sound through the HT system. I tried setting the TVs internal mute to on, but no success. The programs are in 5.1 surround. Suggestions would be of great help. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 815 Registered: May-05 | Jason, The whole light engine sits on a sliding tray. Remove some screws and disconnect a few wire guides and maybe a ground strap and it will slide back. That will make it much easier! Arcs, Most home theater receivers require you to assign names to input positions. Other than that, it could be a dirty or bad optical cable. |
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New member Username: Acs65Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-06 | Thanks Jason. The strange part is that the Television receives two signals for a channel through my HD antenna: one is the regular reception and the other is the digital reception. For example, I receive NBC regular version on channel 5 and the NBC Digital version on Channel 5-1. My Home Theater receives plays the stereo signal from channel 5. HOwever, the Dolby Digital version of channel 5-1 is not getting through to the Home Theater system....Does this make sense? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 816 Registered: May-05 | Yea...makes sense! With digital reception the audio is the first thing to drop out from weak signal. You may need a better antenna or a signal booster. If you have one of those RCA indoor antennas, that's your problem!  Remember...a booster can't boost a signal that's not all there! Check this sight! www.antennaweb.org Click Choose an Antenna. Enter your zip. Filter by digital stations. See the distance and direction of your local digital channels. Get an old style uhf/vhf directional antenna. Get out your compass to point it correctly. |
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New member Username: TobinmathewChicago, IL USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-06 | Hi. new to the site. hoping to get some help with my samsung dlp 50 inch tv. about a yr ago i started hearing a whirrng noise from my tv. it's gotten progressively worse and it sounds like the tv's gonna explode. i replaced the lamp about a month ago when it burned out but no change in that annoying sound. any suggestions? would appreciate any help. thanks |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 817 Registered: May-05 | It's either a fan or the color wheel. Both are easy to replace. Take the back off and tape the cover safety switch. Power up and listen. Power down and the color wheel will stop immediatly while the fans continue to run for a minute. The color wheel sits in front of the lamp. The whole light engine sits on a sliding tray. www.samsungparts.com |
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New member Username: TobinmathewChicago, IL USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-06 | Thanks FYI. just ordered those parts. hope it works. |
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New member Username: JnazPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-06 | I broke that strap like wire on the color wheel. Do they make a tool that re-strips that wire? |
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New member Username: RippalizerPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-06 | I purchased a Samsung HL-S5087W 50" DLP TV about five weeks ago, and it worked fine until last night. It would stay on for about 30 seconds or a minute, and then the screen would go black, and the three lights would blink. Is this a problem with the bulb? The fact that it looked good for the thirty seconds makes me think that it must be something else. Any suggestions? Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 836 Registered: May-05 | Call 1-800-SAMSUNG and they will take care of it. Register your set online and get an extra three months of coverage. (15 months total) |
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New member Username: Samiam2Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-06 | I have had ongoing audio/video sync issues with my Samsung 5063W. Is there any solution? I have a surrond system, and have minimzed the effect by turning OFF all of my external speakers and using only the TV speakers. The delay is not as obvious if I do that. This has been ongoing. I've had many "experts" out to look at it. I've tried new cable boxes, every type of setup imaginable, new outside cable, etc. It totally defeats the purpose if I can't use my surrond sound system with the TV. Samsung denies that there are any problems with this model. They replaced the one I had before this when it was still under warrenty. They said this is the "new generation" and shouldn't be a problem. I have an extended warrenty with Best Buy. They are not doing anything to help me. I'm so aggravated! Any insight is MOST appreciated! Thanks! |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 838 Registered: May-05 | That's what Samsung tells everybody with an HL-P. They know it has a sync issue, but they will play dumb to discover people who won't press the issue in an effort to save money. The hope is to placate you and outlast the warranty. Those who are tenacious and get past level 2 support to speak with Executive Customer Relations will ultimately get their set replaced with an HL-S model. The HL-S xx87 and 88 models have a 10 bit ATI Xillion processor and do a much better job. That said, be advised that not all lip/sync issues are set related. Content providers have issues in this area from time to time, which show up on any set. Here's an article. http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/AV_lip_sync_delay.html Besides more expensive home theater receivers with built in digital audio delays there is an after-market device called the Felston DD540 that does an excellent job of controlling digital optical audio. It has a remote control too, which means you could set up a macro for it in a universal remote. http://www.felston.com/dd540/ ******************************************************************************** ******** |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 4 Registered: Aug-06 | Questions for FYI: I have the Samsung HLR 4366W. Now connect a digital HDTV cable box from Scientific Atlanta to my TV using an HDMI cable. Have set my cable box output settings to give me only a 1080i signal. (My cable box allows me to select one or more of the 480i, 480p, 780p or 1080i. If I select all, when I switch channels, the output changes depending on how each channel is broadcast.) The picture is very good. I have two sets of questions: DVD PLAYER QUESTIONS: Am confused by what I have read about DVD players. Some say buy one that upconverts to 1080i. Others say don't bother; just buy a progressive scan DVD player and let the better chipset in your HDTV do the upconverting. 1. What do you suggest re DVD players: upconverting or not? 2. If I buy a DVD player that does not upconvert, what settings do I use on my TV to do the upconverting? CABLE BOX QUESTIONS: Have heard that with my setup, the cable box is upconverting signal to 1080i but the TV is downconvering to 780p, its native resolution and degrading the picture in the process. 1. What do you suggest I set the cable box output to be: Only780 p? Only 1080i? All (480i, 480p, 780p and 1080i)? PS: Your's are the most knowledgable and interesting posts on this forum. Thanks. |
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Bronze Member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 11 Registered: Apr-06 | I have a question for Kumar: how do set up the cable box output to give a 1080i signal? I have a hlr50 and a DVR box from Veriozn. HD channels look great but the rest of channels are a bit fuzzy. Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 842 Registered: May-05 | Kumar, Thanks for the kind words. The set's scaling chip is better than most every DVD player and certainly better than any cable or sat box. The best setting for the cable box is "All" or "Pass Through". That way your set will do the only scaling of signals received. You are correct that your set will show any signal received in it's native 720P format. Let's say Fox is broadcasting in 720P. Right now your cable box is converting it to 1080i. Your set is converting it back to 720P. That's not really a good thing. Too much processing adds noise and artifacts. Standard definition is 480i and will suffer the most from over processing. Some think the advantage of upconverting DVD players is the scaling chip. That might be true for Dennon or Oppo units. The real advantage is the fact that only upscaling DVD players have a DVI or HDMI digital video output. The DVD is digital, the player reads it and sends it digital, the set receives it digital, thus, less processing. Assia, Every cable box has a menu that can be accessed with a code. Call your cable provider for the code. Changing your output won't fix what you're experiencing, though. You are seeing the difference between digital and analog channels. Cable analog channels are the worst. Cable boxes can distort analog even more. A cable tech could come out and show you it has great signal level, but that doesn't mean the signal is not degraded. It just means it's a well amplified degraded signal. Only sweep technicians can optimize the quality of a cable signal and they are restrained by the number of times it's been boosted. The further away you live from the source, the more amps it takes to get a signal to you. Each amp adds noise and degrades the signal. That's why cable subscribers don't all get the same quality. The very best picture your HD set will show is obtained for free with a standard UHF/VHF off-air antenna. Your local channels are available in digital format and your ATSC internal tuner will scan and program them. Digital stations will be the same channel number as analog, but will have a -1 designation. Click "Choose an Antenna" on this website and then enter your zip for digital channels in your area. It's the sweetest picture you will ever see. www.antennaweb.org |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 5 Registered: Aug-06 | Assia: Here is how I set the output format on my digital Scientific Atlanta HDTV cable box: 1. Press "Settings" on the remote. Dialog box opens on screen with a number of settings and saying "Press A for additional settings". 2. Press 'A'. Scroll down until you get to 'Output'. Can select one or more of the choices: 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. Per FYI's suggestion, I have now selected all. Your box is different. If you google your model, you will likely find the source for a manual for it. It will likely tell you how to access this for your box. |
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New member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 6 Registered: Aug-06 | Thanks, FYI. Appreciate it. Assume the Samsung TV automatically scales/downscales incoming signal to its native output 720p, right? Anyone have experience with the new 1080p sets? Would you see any difference with cable channels or DVDs? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 843 Registered: May-05 | "Assume the Samsung TV automatically scales/downscales incoming signal to its native output 720p, right?" Right? But, it's doesn't really degrade 1080i. Converting 1080 interlaced lines to 720 progressive lines is actually an improvement, especially with fast motion action scenes. "Would you see any difference..." The scaling process of either native format simply enlarges 480i signal, not enhances. Samsung doesn't make the 1080P sets in 42 thru 46 inch sizes for a reason. It wouldn't be any sharper or clearer than 720P to the discerning eye. The human eye just can't resolve the detail. The 50 inch 1080P display is a noticeable improvement, but the 61 inch is a real improvement over 61 inch 720P models. The benefit of more progresively scanned lines shows up on the bigger screens. |
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