PC Richards

 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 28
Registered: Sep-05
After techs coming out and replacing my analog and digital board 2 times and almost a 3rd. They have finally agreed to issue me a credit so I can choose a new TV. I currently have the Samsung 5067. I have been out of the research loop for a while since I bought it last year. What's out there? I was happy with the Samsung have thay made any changes? Thanks for the help
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 869
Registered: May-05
The HL-S 5087W is a much better set, but you may be burned on the brand. It has quite a following on the AVS forum. It's up to 271 posts. I know I like mine! :-)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=cafc7b0433d4baa7264178b633dfb0c2 &t=665890&page=1&pp=30

Here's a quote from one of the video calibrationists.

"To own any Samsung DLP that has been produced over the last three years and not have it professionally calibrated is to not realize how truly spectacular these sets are. Very simply put, these are the first displays in the history of (consumer) televisions that can actually be made to abide by system standards. In other words, correct color space, color decoder, grayscale for both color & B&W, gamma, 1:1 pixel mapping, etc. can be achieved! This is not unlike setting up your display to resemble the actual monitors used to master each film! That type of accuracy is what sets a Samsung DLP head and shoulders above any other current display.

Eliab"

Nuff said!


Sony SXRD has a pretty strong following too.

Better luck with whatever you choose!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 29
Registered: Sep-05
Thanks FYI. Not yet burned on the brand hoping it was just a bad model out the door. The only issue I noticed and it could be related to the bad boards was some pixilation when there was quick movement. Is this a common problem?
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 871
Registered: May-05
It's not bad with the new "S" models!
Proper calibration and a new ATI 10 bit video processor chip has solved much of the video compression pixelation issues, but not all since it is source related. Standard def sat signal is still the main culprit of digital compression artifacts.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 30
Registered: Sep-05
Sounds good. I'll have to see what kind of deal I can get it for. Is there any noticeable difference going to the 1080? I just hope the regular tv doesn't appear any worse
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 873
Registered: May-05
It's a very noticeable improvement indeed!
The 1080 progressive lines makes a nice improvement to standard definition at the 50" and up display sizes. HD is just mind blowing! :-)

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=19063796/no_zip=1/
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 31
Registered: Sep-05
Thanks for all your help. I am going to price it out this weekend. I assume I will have a credit at PC Richards so I'll have to see if they will come down on the price. I think they came down about 300 or 400 off the one I have now.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 32
Registered: Sep-05
FYI....ordered the TV last night. Cost me about 200 out of pocket but they carried over my warranty. Taking delivery Saturday and looking forward to it, just hoping I will notice the difference between the 720 that I could have bought at a huge discount. Thanks for your help
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 882
Registered: May-05
Kewl! :-)

It will be blasting bright out of the box due to the new Phillips 130 watt UHP lamp. Here are some settings you can use as a good starting point. I got these using a THX movie setup.

Daytime or brighter ambient room light.

Mode = Standard
Contrast = 55
Brightness = 50
Sharpness = 20
Color = 45
Color Tone = Normal

Thumb to Return and push Enter.

Size = 16:9
Digital NR = Off
DNIe = On
Color Control - Detail - To suite your eyes.


Night or Dark ambient room light.

Mode = Custom
Contrast = 45
Brightness = 45
Sharpness = 0
Color = 43
Color Tone = Normal or Warm 1
Return
Digital NR = Off
DNIe = On

Good luck! Enjoy!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 33
Registered: Sep-05
Just had it delivered. A few questions, when changing channels through the HD channels I get bars or a blast of solid color before the channel changes. Also sound is pretty dead on this unit. And lastly for now it looks like the edges of the picture is curved when the HD doesnt take up the entire screen.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 895
Registered: May-05
Mine does that hash and color thing between channels on the HDMI connection and not at all using component (Y, Pr, Pb) video cables. I have both hooked up for comparison. There isn't even a hint of difference in PQ between them.

Sound from any set has always been a disappointment to me. Fortunately, the cost of home theater receivers, especially the 5.1 Dolby models have dropped significantly since the 7.1 channel models came out. In reality, 5.1 is more than adequate and 100 watt per channel, .09 THD units can be found for less than $200. To enjoy a true home theater experience, you really need to be immersed in quality sound as much as video.

What you see in 4:3 is the pin cushion effect of the screen. It's not the sets electronic geometry. You can put your knuckle on the black bar and push the screen to see the effect. A tech will only replace the screen if the variation is greater than 1/2 inch. All owners have some pin cushioning, but after a while you will forget all about it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jpatey

Post Number: 34
Registered: Sep-05
It looks very scary. I use the HDMI b/c my components are occupied with the DVD player and X-Box 360. I have a Sony HTIB, great sound but I have been using it only for movies and games, I thought my last Samsung had pretty decent sound (5067) noticed a big difference with this one. Looks like I need to play around with the setting for color as well, I will try the settings you have listed. I also wonder if a calabration wouldn't be such a bad thing or if I could do that myself. Thanks again for all your help.
 

Silver Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 896
Registered: May-05
Picture settings are so subjective. An ISF Calibration tech will adjust to an SMPTE Standard of what film makers want you to see. (Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers) That's fine for late night movie watching in a dark room or theater-like setting. I don't think it works very well for a ball game or race on a Sunday afternoon in a room with windows. Everybody has a variety of conditions and a different pair of eyes. Programming content picture variations can be all over the place. I have set up all 4 Modes for different room light and content and I find myself tweaking one of them further for certain programs. That's just me, though. I'm sure there's a group that just wants it set up for one mode and they are happy to watch everything anytime with that setup. Yuck!

That said, here are some settings closer to the SMPTE Standard you can put on Movie Mode.

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2


These are my daytime, sun-lit room ball game settings.

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - On
Mode - Dynamic
Contrast - 65
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 30
Color - 52
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Normal

You already have my Standard and Custom settings.
There's a P-Mode button on the remote to bounce between them. Tweak to your liking and by all means...ENJOY! :-)
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