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Not Giving Up Unregistered guest | Thanks Don't Give Up. You're absolutely right in paragraph 1, that's exactly what's happening. Re movie channels, yes I'm talking about regular HBO, Show..., etc....they look good. I called Charter (cable co) and they said they will see if giving the signal a boost will help (not sure when that will take place)but said that was about all they could do. The salesman at HI FI Buys said to use a splitter from the wall and take a coax straight into the TV and one to the cable box, but then another person said that by splitting it would just decrease the input , any thoughts on that. I just have a regular DVD player not a progressive scan. Will see if a friend has one. BTW, I didn't buy the extended warranty since the store cost was (I thought) too expensive $300 3yrs and didn't cover the bulb (lamp), power surges or lightning hitting the line. I was told by the store that you can only buy a warranty at the store of the purchase. Best Buys seems to have the best and cheapest covering the above issues, however they only sell the warranty to their customers. I have 30 days to buy it where I purchased if I change my mind. Any thoughts. |
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Not Giving Up Unregistered guest | Don't Give Up, I forgot to ask what you're thoughts were about the issue with the TV remote not working when I went from coax to HDMI. |
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Don't Give Up! Unregistered guest | You stated, "Can't enlarge HD channel pic" as the symptom of the, "remote not working". A true HD 720P or 1080I program fills the screen. Absolutely no sizing is required. There is nothing wrong with the remote. A digital network channel is not an HD channel. The picture quality is twice as good as the old VHF network channels, but not true HD. They will sometimes show a true HD 720P or 1080I primetime program that will fill the screen, but any other time the black bars will be there. When a digital signal is being delivered to the set through a digital connection, ie: HDMI cable, the sizing is disabled in the set. If you switch to an analog connection, ie: s-video, rca, coax, the sizing would be restored, however the picture quality is not as good with those connections. Folks with cable do not generally use HDMI for the cable converter connection to the set because standard definition suffers through the HDMI connection. Mostly, it's component (Pr, Pb, Y) that is preferred. Even with component cables to the set, which are preferred, the digital network channels cannot be sized. As stated previously, stretching a 4:3 standard definition broadcast to 16:9 is not reccommended. The picture quality suffers, especially with standard def channels. You will get used to the black bars. Maybe someday, all programming will be HD in 16:9 format. The DVD player connection is best with HDMI. |
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Not Giving Up Unregistered guest | Ok Don't Give Up, You were right on... I finally got the cable guy to bring out a new box and got rid of the HDMI cable. Replaced with "componet" cable; which looks much better. Also got a signal boost which really helped. I want to thank you so much for your input, as it was your input that took seriously and made the change, making everything work the way it should. Please keep up helping those of us that need your advise. You're great....thanks again. |
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Unregistered guest | Any thoughts between the Samsung HL-P4674 and the HL-R4667? I see that one has a PC connection and the other has a DVI connection. I do want to be able to connect a Media Center PC to the TV to act as both my music server and as my DVR to record and playback shows. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 166 Registered: May-05 | You have answered your own question. Besides, the 67 has newer components. You will need a video capture card with the appropriate software to record. I think a DVR is the best route, myself. |
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HeadScratcher Unregistered guest | Hi FYI, I'm guessing that I just need a video card with DVI out instead of the standard 15pin DSub VGA connector for the DL-R4667? Are they both the DLP2+ chip? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 172 Registered: May-05 | The 67 has the newer chip, which some refer to as the HD4. It's actually an enhanced version of the .55 inch HD3 and performs mirror switching at more than twice the speed of the previous version. The higher contrast of the 67 is a result of the 5th generation light engine. The 74 has the original HD2+ chip and a 4th gen light engine. Each set has very different styling. The 67 has a VGA for a monitor , but the digital port is an HDMI. There is no DVI port. Component (Pr, Pb Y) cables to a true DVR would provide the best recordings. |
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HeadScratcher Unregistered guest | Thanks FYI, I was just at BB and they offered me a better price on the hl-r5067 than they could on the hl-r4667. Seems like I might be going down that road. Thanks for the info and sorry about the mess of typos above. |
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Raskell5 Unregistered guest | I haven't seen this in previous posts so here goes: I've had the HLP5067 for about a month. Don't know what the deal is but I have a white/gray shadow "triangle" from the middle of the bottom of the screen-half way up the screen, even when the TV is off. What the heck is it and how do I get rid of it? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 186 Registered: May-05 | These screens capture any room light including lamps and window light and focus it to the center, especially when off. If you can't alter the room light and see a difference, try adjusting the screen angle to see if the shadow alters or moves. If it doesn't, something else is going on. Call 1-800-SAMSUNG, prompts 2 then 1 then 3 then 1 and let them schedule a tech to check it out. |
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DMOB Unregistered guest | I purchased the Samsung HLR-4266W over the weekend. I don't have my digital/HD box from Comcast yet but I was able to receive digital and HD channels just by connecting the coax directly to the TV, and I don't even have digital cable service, just analog. That was an unexpected surprise. I would leave it like that but I don't get the added benefit of on-demand and the on-screen guide so I am upgrading the service to get the box (I even thought about buying a box from Amazon to see if I would get all of the features). Should Comcast provide component cables when they install the box? Should I go with DVI instead? I also have a PS2 that I hooked up through composite cables, which is all I have right now. I went into the configuration menu of the PS2 and changed the output to 16x9 but the picture is still stretched and unclear. It looks much better in 4x3. Should the PS2 be producing DVD like quality? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 216 Registered: May-05 | Use PS2 in 4:3. It will not have DVD like quality. PS3 will be HD and look awesome. Comcast won't provide component cables or DVI without charging you for them. It's probably better to buy your own. Component will work as good if not better than DVI on a cable box. You may have worse standard def signal from the cable box. You can try to split the cable feed to do a direct feed like you have now and still feed the box. The direct feed may have a better SD picture than the box. Digital and HD won't matter. Either way will look great. |
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DMOB Unregistered guest | Thanks FYI. So you are suggesting I make two connections to the tv with my cable? One through the box for Digital/HD, and one direct to the TV for standard def? Is that so I get a better picture when running PIP? |
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DMOB Unregistered guest | One more thing, does my TV do upconverting on my non-progressive DVD player? Do I need to buy a progressive scan or upconverting player to get the best picture or does the TV handle the signal for me? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 217 Registered: May-05 | Yes! Actually, it's the only way you can have PIP. You will have digital EDTV network stations on the straight feed too. Both feeds will have standard analog 4:3 programming and you can choose which feed looks best. Yes, your set will scale your DVD signal to 720P just as it does all input signals. |
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Mike Licali Unregistered guest | Was considering purchasing Samsung HLR 5078W, but with all the problems I have read about Samsung DLP sets, I'm a bit hesistant to do so. Is it just that DLP technology hasn't been perfected yet or it is just something with Samsung? I know Mitsubishi also makes a DLP. Confused??? Any assistance would be appreciated. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 218 Registered: May-05 | I think you're ok with the R78 series. I have an R67 now and a P53 before that. Both have been outstanding displays. I really haven't seen many problems on the forum with the R67's and the R78's are just too new for any comments yet. I did here on a 1080P thread that one guy called the R78 "a window on reality". The Mitsu has a very nice picture, but I didn't like the glaring screen. It picks up window and lamp light, which takes away from the picture. |
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New member Username: KenhPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-05 | I bought a Samsung HLR5067W last week. Has a Cable card slot, but I did not order the card from Comcast. I just have the Extended Basic service with no cable box, and pick up the local DD HD channels and PBS HD, and Fox starting at channel 82-1. SO all that is great. I have 2 questions. The Digital output from the TV is running Optical cable to my receiver. But the sound cuts out after a short while. Sometimes it comes back and sometimes I have to set the receiver back to Analog and then to Optical to reacquire the sound. Any thoughts as to what the issue is? It works ok from the TV audio out to the receiver, but not as good quality sound. Second question. TV Guide found channels overnight, but not the show listings. What do I need to do. Thanks. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 223 Registered: May-05 | Ken, I have been fighting that optical audio dropout in the same fashion as you, but my optical connection to the receiver is straight from my sat receiver. Once it connects it holds fine, but switching channels I lose it. My audio dropout has nothing to do with the set. I think my SS receiver freaks out when it switches in and out of Dolby mode or perhaps any mode. |
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Unregistered guest | Just found this site and I'm really in need of some advice. I bought a Samsung HLN50651X 50" DLP last year. It has been working well. I'm in the military and just moved to Okinawa Japan. I had all my stuff shipped over and received my tv today. I hooked it up and it worked fine for a minute then the screen went black. I still get audio but no picture. The lamp indicator on the front blinks and after a minute or so, you can hear the tv try to reset, the lamp indicator goes off then it tries to turn on again, then the lamp indicator starts blinking again. I pulled the lamp out and I'm not sure if it's burnt or not. When I look into the lamp, there's a wire on the inside (I'm assuming like a filament)that runs from the side to the middle. In the middle of the bulb there's a glass cylinder of some sort with a wire coming up from the middle of it. The 2 wires cross each other and touch, but they are definitely two seperate wires. Should they be, or is it supposed to be one continuous wire? I would really be greatful for some advice. I don't want to order a new lamp if that's not the problem. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 245 Registered: May-05 | Well...that sure sounds like the problem. During power up, try slapping the lamp housing area a few times. Sometimes it will fire off. If it does, leave it on 24/7 until your new lamp arrives. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 185 Registered: Jul-05 | YEah thats the ticket...slap the crap out of your $3000 "investment" That should do it...... What a technology.... FYI is always so helpful,,,,SLAP THAT BABY!!! |
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DMOB Unregistered guest | Ok - now I am extremely frustrated with the PIP controls for my HLR-4266W. The PIP button will only turn the PIP on and off. To change the size or location, I have to go through the menus. I find that to be really short sighted on the part of Samsung. Is there any way around this? Are there other remotes out there that can control my TV and cable box that will give me the PIP functions that I want? The remote that came with my Motorola HD cable box has PIP controls on the bottom that allow for resizing and moving the image but they do nothing with my TV. Any suggestions would me much appreciated. |
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Confuzed Unregistered guest | I was thinking about getting the Samsung HLR-4266W, and after reading this I'm wondering if that is the way to go... (Due to the size of the built-in in which it will be placed, I'm limited to a 42" set.) Is there going to be a newer version of the HLR-4266W coming out any time soon? I noticed that the 67 series is newer, but don't see that in the 42" version. Is DLP the way to go, even if you have to keep replacing the lamps? Or is plasma a better option? Any help would help...thanks. |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 53 Registered: Jun-05 | the 4266 is the 42 inch version of the 67 series sets. Same lght engine, chipset etc.... HS |
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Confuzed Unregistered guest | Thanks for the info HS. I appreciate the help. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 191 Registered: Jul-05 | Plasma is the better bet. You do not read as many issue on the plasma threads by far.The DLPs are a waste and the WEGA thread will open anyones eyes. There talk of class action lawsuits on the PAnasonic thread....Gotta love the denial going on here regarding these FP TVs.LOL The half life scare is just that. The cheapest plasmas are rated at 20,000 hours until half brightness. Thats 6.5 years of 24 hour TV watching. If you cut the 20,000 to a realistic 10,000 thats actually 12 years of 12 hour a day watching.......IF you have to have a fixed Pixel Tv as your main TV I would trust plasma way more then these $300 a year projector bulb fiascos. Burn in is a non issue with the newer Plasma sets. Less likely then on a CRT. I'd reccomend spending $1200 on a RP CRT for a couple years then for the SAME money buying a much better FP TV and have two for the price of one. |
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Against the Rant Unregistered guest | Don't believe tom bong! He's a ranting repetative idiot. I'm not sure why he keeps repeating false information. It seems more like a self affirmation of his own propaganda. He acts like he's on some kind of self appointed mission to save us from technology advances. What a total moron! Buy what you want, when you want it. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 227 Registered: Jul-05 | Spoken like the President of Samsung's DLP Division! LOL Names will not stop the rant. Show me where I am wrong. Bold formatting does not make your case any more credible show me my errors. |
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Against the Rant Unregistered guest | I'm not advocating any displays, dumbass! I say buy what you want, when you want it. You have too many obvious error. |
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jr33076 Unregistered guest | I have the new HLR5067w samsung DLP, but I can't figure out how to get the TV sound to come through my surround sound system. I got dvd's to come through surround sound speakers, but not regular cable. I have red/white/yellow audio plugged into out on tv and in on receiver. I have another cable with just red/white and plugged into out on cable box and in on TV. This is not working....help! |
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Knob Polisher Unregistered guest | Go into the menu and turn the internal mute ON. Then the sound will output to the theater receiver. Tom Bong |
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New member Username: NitetriprPost Number: 7 Registered: Jun-05 | DMOB look into a Harmony remote. A programable remote might allow you to dig deep into the menu without having digging down and pushing a dozen buttons to sat SWAP a pip or moving it around. Anyone use a Harmony with Samsung PIP functions? |
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Anonymous13 Unregistered guest | I got the new Samsung HLR5067W DLP 50" tv that has the cable card option. We've been using the cable card and every once in a while when I turn on the TV, the screen tells me weak signal or no signal with no picture. The only way I can reboot is by turning off the TV & ejecting the cable card and turn on TV then off, reinsert cable card and turn on TV again to get it working. Sometimes this does not work until after 2 or 3 tries. Is anyone else having this problem? It's beginning to be very annoying and the cable guys are blaming the TV and the Samsung customer service is blaming the cable company. Just want to know if anyone else is having this problem. |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 71 Registered: Jun-05 | Just get a dang cable box for crying out loud. Everyone is having problems with the cable card and even if it did work properly the limited function makes it a VERY poor substitute for a digital cable box. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 348 Registered: Jul-05 | Seems the who;e fixed pixel DLP attempt is a total compromise and a poor subsitute for a television. Imagine that! They put a gadget on for cable and THAT doen't even work!! For $2500 It BETTER ALL work as designed...but alas it doesn't and there are total fools who buy it anyway. Amazing! YEah get a dang cable box even though the TV was designed NOT to need one to get HD....Hmmmm While your at it, get a decent TV. |
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View thru a bong Unregistered guest | bong has no real business whatsoever on this thread. He's never owned a DLP or an LCD. All he knows is what he reads. Less than a hundred come to forums with defects. The trouble-free ten's of thousands don't. This is his knowledge base, nothing more. Narrow view, narrow minded, idiotic nonsense blown out of proportion. Rudeness, misinformation, and sarcastic ridicule are his tools to discourage those seeking information for a DLP or LCD purchase. He heavily prefers CRT. I equate his message to a snowy grainy projected CRT image. You can tell what the storyline is, but there's something horribly wrong with the whole picture. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 377 Registered: Jul-05 | Cut and paste? Lazy man! I have answered each comment individually in another thread. On the last one......You need a stronger signal man, not a new TV....But you already knew that. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 21 Registered: May-05 | Oh...there you are! What makes you think your so smart about DLP? |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 392 Registered: Jul-05 | You guys have made me smart. I knew nothing before I started reading these forums. Yep Ya all made me smart and saved me a lot of cash and grief as well and I thank you for that and am returning the favor to others. DLP = Laser Disc. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 50 Registered: May-05 | Pure speculation! Not fact! Big industry behind the DMD chip. Not as big as tobacco, but big. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 405 Registered: Jul-05 | The DMD chip will still have its use. For front long throw projection. I do believe the home theater television use among the masses will not come to fruition though if ONLY becasue of the nasty lamp replacement costs...all other issues aside. People just do not like that IF they have other options and they will and do. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 60 Registered: May-05 | You haven't seen my post about front projection owners that are quite used to 1200 hour intervals due to the high lumens of those lamps. They don't complain too much. They get to watch a much bigger screen than us. It's what they chose. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 407 Registered: Jul-05 | No I understasnd and agree that is the real technological and lasting market for the chips. I am suggesting most people will turn elsewhere once they realize the ongoing costs. Regular People are not used to having to pay ongoing costs for TV hardware. They are kicking and screaming having to buy what they have recieved for free for the past 60 years OTA. I read where only 13% of households have HD capability and slightly more have even seen a real example of HD TV. Not the disc based stuff one sees at Sears and many other retailers. In all probability RP FP TVs will have to be the cheapest technology in order to stay relavant vs ever lowering lower LCD and Plasma and yes RPCRT prices. The thin wall hanging screen is a huge advantage of Plasma and LCD. That is more of a wow factor for many along with the HD picture. Even RPCRT is not even twice as deep as RPDLP in many cases. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 64 Registered: May-05 | "They are kicking and screaming..." I'm not seeing those DLP posts where people think they are getting rooked on lamps. There is an occaisional lamp failure in DLP threads, but far far from chronic really. If regular people don't understand lamp projection technology and choose it for it's obvious values, they should stay the hell away from it an get themselves another CRT while they still can. It won't be long before they can't. I don't think that's the direction of most informed people, though. They want bigger and better displays than what they had. I know I did. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 409 Registered: Jul-05 | It won't take long reading this forum to find more then a few people dissapointed with lamp life. Expectations may be the issue but perception is the driver of action. CRT will be around quite awhile. For the past couple years the retailers have been saying no more RPCRTS and yet there are new models being released evry year as well. http://cnews.canoe.ca/CNEWS/TechNews/BizTech/2005/08/15/1174127.html |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 67 Registered: May-05 | CRT has it's place still. It's not dead yet. It is being phased out in it's original form, though. Yea, there will be those who buy lamp projection without knowing about lamp replacements. There will be those that don't know how to care for their lamp and get less life from it. There will also be those that get an occaisional bad unit or get caught up in a cheap manufacturing run. It happens. They end up on forums like these. It doesn't mean that a particular technology is flawed by any means. No more so than autos or homes or any other manufacturing process. The human element is always a factor and we don't know any perfect humans. Todays buyer should do their homework and make choices based on fact, whatever they choose. Expectations of any new technology is a learning experience. The negative experiences of a very few is no reason to cowar back to old ways. Consumers need to investigate, research, and know what they are buying and why. There are advantages and positives to consider as well. |
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steve00102 Unregistered guest | I just bought the 5067, I'm having trouble getting the pip to work. According to the manual I cannot use pip with digital channels. All i can do is view pip while watching a tv channel and from another source like x box or dvd. I want to watch 2 channels at once why would i want to watch a tv channel and a dvd atthe same time? That doesnt seem right. Am i doing something wrong? I have directv. thanks for any help. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 71 Registered: May-05 | Lot's of inputs on that set, Steve. Not knowing your signal source, I'll give you my examples. I have a sat box. I can feed the HDMI on the set from the sat box. There's one input. My sat box has component y, Pr, Pb outputs too. I can run a set of those to component 1 input on the set, There's the second input. I have cameras pointed down my front walk and back drive. The single yellow videos are hooked to my composite inputs 1 and 2. I'm now up to four inputs. I have a uhf antenna on the roof for local digital networks. My RG6 is hooked to my coax air "f" fitting input. I have basic cable due to my broadband internet being cable based. I have it on my cable "f" fitting input. I'm now up to six inputs on the set. All of these inputs are available for direct view or PIP, for swapping or whatever. Since the sat box has a digital tuner I have split the uhf feed or cable for that matter and fed the sat box digital local network signal. I already have uhf and sat on the tv's digital tuner. Thus, the manual is incorrect. I can watch two digital signals at the same time from two seperate tuners and sources. The manual is saying that the set can't perform an internal split from it's own digital tuner for the PIP function. Nothing says you can't use an external digital tuner like I have. I use a Samsung Direct TV SIR TS360. There are cheaper versions of ATSC external digital tuners too. People with cable split there cable feed and take one to the box and the other to the cable input on the set to get there two inputs. Others just add an off-air UHF antenna connection. Hope this helps. |
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New member Username: OnfusNew Jersey Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-05 | I am new here - as many I am having problems with my HLR5067W. 1. Cable Card First, I must say that the picture is way better with a cable card than with the STB, even when using HDMI. Even the cable guy had to admitt it. Now, with Cablevision, in my area, the TV guide on screen will not work from the Cable, so I was adviced by Samsung to connect an OTA antenna to recive the signal (they also mention about a software fix to be available latter). So for the first time ever, I used an OTA antenna, it worked like a charm, because the next morning the TV guide was up with all the channels running. A nice surprise was to find that I could receive a few HD OTA channels that I can tune directly from the guide (thanks God, because this remote sucks), that every now and then I tune from the TV Guide - but now, when I switch from the Cable Input to the antenna input for an hour or so, I loose my Cable Card channels, I have to do menu reset and menu update channels to get it to work. Obviously, overnight when the set it off and the guide is being downloaded OTA, the cable Card gets messed up again. Is this Cablevision's cable card's or Samsung's problem? So I though, that maybe I do not need the cablecard at all (I preffer DVD's than On demand movies) - but then with the Cable Card out, while I am able to tune all the channels, they get displayed as sub-channels and the TV guide stops making sense... Hmm... 2. VCR Has anyone succesfully connected a VCR using the TV Guide? After configuring it (it turns on and switches to channel 9), when I try to set a recording, I get a message saying no compatible devices found... |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 77 Registered: May-05 | "Is this Cablevision's cable card's or Samsung's problem?" Neither! You are trying to use the digital tuner's memory for two seperate digital feeds. I'm not sure it wants to remember the channel locations of the different feeds because they are different channel locations. It's probably getting confused and kicking out the memory. Have you gone into the menu to Channel and Autoprogram and selected "Air+Cable"? If that doesn't work it's not going to work. |
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New member Username: OnfusNew Jersey Post Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | DLP4me, Autoprogram works fine w/o the cable card regardless of me switching back and forth between OTA and cable and the channel lineup stays in memory. However, the Autoprogram function for Cable gets disabled when the cablecard is inserted. I guess the channel lineup of Cablevision takes precedece and autoprogram becomes redundant - but when I switch the TV off or change to OTA it forgets everything, even my favorites. But if it does not work why wouldn't it be a design flaw? Other than this, I love this TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 90 Registered: May-05 | To you, it's a flaw because of the way you are trying to use both inputs. To Samsung it was a design consideration in that only one or the other ATSC inputs was designed to be utilized. Not both at the same time! |
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New member Username: OnfusNew Jersey Post Number: 3 Registered: Sep-05 | I do not think you understand what the problem is. Thanks for trying anyway. I wonder why if the 2 inputs they cannot be used at the same time, Samsung TS advised it was the only way I could get the TV Guide to work, and in fact it does only work that way. The cable card is going out until I figure this out. I will have learn to live with sub-channels and digital and analog channels all jumbled together. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dlp4mePost Number: 94 Registered: May-05 | Actually, I understood you perfectly. The use of the CableCard is interfering with the channel memory function of the digital tuner. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 428 Registered: Jul-05 | ONfus...Yet another frustrated DLP owner... Yeah the cable cards are a joke on your multi thousand dollar "investment." There are a few others you will discover as time passes. Yeah I left that door open . Go for it fan boys... |
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steve00102 Unregistered guest | one last question about pip with directv. Is this statement accurate. The only way i can use my pip to watch to tv channels is to have two directv recievers set up or one cable and one directv set up or a directv reciever and an over the air antenna? Thanks. |
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nick elkan Unregistered guest | Can anyone help, I have the Samsung sp50 dlp tv and i see red and green stripes whenever there is a bright subject on a black bacground( e.g...candle in a dark room), they have tried to repair it once with no luck..is it a fault or just rainbow effect that i can do nothing with?..it is making my eyes hurt to watch.. |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 86 Registered: Jun-05 | It's the rainbow effect. Ambient light in the room will help. High Contrast images seem to highlight this effect for the few people who have the visual acuity to detect it. On newer sets the effect is MUCH less pronounced. Expect a useless anti DLP post from Tom Bong in 5....4.....3....2....1.... |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 567 Registered: Jul-05 | >>>>>I have the Samsung sp50 dlp tv and i see red and green stripes whenever there is a bright subject on a black bacground( e.g...candle in a dark room), they have tried to repair it once with no luck..is it a fault or just rainbow effect that i can do nothing with?..it is making my eyes hurt to watch.<<<<< Yes the famous rainbow effect that does not exist any more and is "much less pronounced" on newer sets. You bought a pig in a poke and guess what. Samsung most likely will not do anything about it. You will have to adjust your room lighting or see a doctor. There are those that claim this is This is the state of the ART TV technology. I love the way Smurf ( a Best Buy salesman) seems to spin it to "normality" Amazing people buy this crap. Barnum was right..."There is a azz for every seat" People on the fence need to read this crap. These are not isolated issues. |
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Bronze Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 88 Registered: Jun-05 | Good old dependable Tom. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 582 Registered: Jul-05 | I am apparently. far more dependable then these DLPs and RPLCDs. Ya think? |
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nick elkan Unregistered guest | Thanks, They have told me it needs returning three times before they will consider changing it..If you are thinking of getting this set..BE WARNED..everything i watch has rainbow effect at some point its driving me nuts as well as giving me a headache!!! I will ring on monday and get it picked up again(fun when its a 50 inch screen) and let you know the outcome.!! |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 585 Registered: Jul-05 | Nice Extended warranty! your TV is making you literally sick and you need to throw up three time before they will take it back. What made you think you would not have the rainbow (sweet name for a terrible issue) problem? Many claim that is not an issue any more. I sure as hell would not want half the guys at my Super Bowl party getting headaches from anything but the beer and the score!! |
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New member Username: JcnPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-05 | I just hooked up my Samsung 56" dlp, cable box, dvd player and Kenwood receiver and cannot manage to get sound of the tv or dvd player through the receiver. You state to set the internal mute to "on" to get the sound through the reciever I tried this and it didn't work for me. I'll try it again, but any other thoughts? Optical audio is going from receiver to tv and to the dvd player. Any assistance will be appreciated. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 594 Registered: Jul-05 | I would think you would connect the DVD video to the TV and audio to the Reciever. Same with the rest of the inputs. Video input to TV audio direct to reciever. But then you need to change two components when switching imputs. Some pass HDMI audio through the TV first then the reciever. There is a couple ways to do this. Keep it simple. I connect everything to the reciever and only the Video to my TV using the reciever to switch the audio and video inputs. But that is my HT set up on a RPCRT. The mute thing appears to be a bug specific to Samsung. |
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New member Username: JcnPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | Thanks for the reassurance. I have it connected as you suggest with all video to the tv and all audio to the reciever. Could be a bug like you say. It could also be I just needed to walk away from it for a bit. Had a thought, could be a setting on my reciever- may be I just need to set the reciever to the right input on the tv because I've not used the optical audio before so I'm not really sure if it's Video one, two, three, etc... on the reciever. And Lord knows the manuals don't help a bit. Thanks for the thoughts- if you have anymore let me know. I'll let you know how it works out. |
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JD391 Unregistered guest | Hi all! My problem is that I get no sound on HD channels through the TV speakers. The sound is okay (PCM) on SD channels through the TV speakers and I can receive DD (AC3) sound through my AV receiver. I am using HDMI from DirectTV HDDVR (HR10-250) to a Samsung HLR5567 and an optical cable from the DVR to the AV receiver. The audio setting on the DVR is set to Dolby Digital. Digital output in the menu on the Samsung is set to PCM and greyed-out. I have tried different cables and also tried connecting the optical cable from the digital out on the TV to the receiver. I know I can simply bypass the TV speakers but the Samsung has a digital audio decoder so they should work. I am not sure if the problem is with the DVR or the Samsung. Thanks in advance for your help. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 661 Registered: Jul-05 | My money is on the Samsung..... |
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New member Username: OnfusNew Jersey Post Number: 4 Registered: Sep-05 | If you are trying to use the TV as a source-selector, note that the audio out only works for S-video and composite. There is a note about this somewhere in the manual. |
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Anonymous | I have the HLR-5078W, its hooked up to my sound system, everything works fine so far, except sometimes, the picture and the sound don't match... I have set the delay on the speakers several times... any suggestions? |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 725 Registered: Jul-05 | Thats a common issue (among many) with those DLP TVs, |
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Anonymous | Is there a fix?? |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 736 Registered: Jul-05 | bump |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 271 Registered: May-05 | I have found that it's content related. There is no consistancy in the mismatch. It only happens occasionaly. When I see it happening I have turned on a 19" CRT in the kitchen and it's happening on it too. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 747 Registered: Jul-05 | Its a KNOWN and well documented issue with Samsung by many who past here. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 290 Registered: May-05 | "many who past here" Now...that's funny! |
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midwest Unregistered guest | I have an HLM437W. Two months ago needed the color wheel replaced - under extended warranty, took care of problem. Two weeks ago, turned on set, lamp light blinked, blinked, etc...no picture or sound. In trying every thing possible with the remote (except standing on it) all three lights started blinking and I discovered neither by remote or power button on side of tv could I turn it off - had to unplug set. Called warranty service and they said bad bulb (which of course isn't covered under the extended warranty). Purchased new bulb, installed, and exact same issue. I see posts mentioning the ballast, or could this be an issue with the dust filter? Any thoughts are appreciated. (And is this dust filter accessible for the lay person to access?). THANKS |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 334 Registered: May-05 | It's the ballast. Your first lamp probably has life, but now you have a spare that you've been needing. Taking the back off and clearing out the dust is always a good idea. I don't know about any dust fiters, but everything is accessable with the back off. A hose type vaccum with the brush attachment works well. |
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AZ-Big-Jim Unregistered guest | I was successful in replacing the bulb only on my 50" Samsung DLP. With a little care you can take the old bulb out of the housing and replace it with a $60>$75 phillips bulb purchased on e-bay. |
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Silver Member Username: Tombo777Post Number: 817 Registered: Jul-05 | We could have a breakthrough here!!! Post a link. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 349 Registered: May-05 | This isn't a new idea. I have a spare glass lamp only. (no housing) Mine was $95 on eBay from a guy in NY. You have to solder it in, but no big deal there. They show up on eBay all the time. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 350 Registered: May-05 | Here's a link to a few of them. The Phillips 120W lamp will swap into different housings with a little effort. |
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Anonymous | Got a 6178 DLP and everything was working fine with component video. Got a Samsung DVD-HD850 today with HDMI and a second HDMI cable for my Comcast Motorola STB and can't get either to work with HDMI. Any thoughts? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 385 Registered: May-05 | For the HD 850, you have to connect the RCA yellow video along with the HDMI cable. Go to the setup menu while viewing on the RCA input and you will see an option to switch to HDMI. Make the selection, then switch to the HDMI input. You can then disconnect the RCA yellow. As for the Comcast box, it may have a menu selection for HDMI as well. It could be called something else like RGB output. Note: The Y, Pr, Pb output mode is different than an RGB output mode. Some receivers can't output both at the same time. |
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Anonymous | I need help and it seems like there are quite a few folks here who know alot about DLP, so here goes. I have a 50" HLR-5067W. For the first 2 days after it came out of the box, it would shut itself off after 30 minutes. I checked and the sleep timer is off. The light on the front blinks like the lamp is hot and it will not let me turn it back on for like 45 minutes. It just seems odd that it is exactly 30 minutes when the "shut down" happens. Then, when I had set a technician visit, it just started working fine. I cancelled the appointment. Now, 2+ months later we are having the same issue. Has anyone else experienced this? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 388 Registered: May-05 | Sounds like the lamp and/or ballast was damaged during shipping. It happens now and then as a result of rough handlers. Call 1-800-SAMSUNG, prompts 2, 1, 3, 1 and have an authorized tech scheduled. |
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Anonymous | Thanks. I have called and set the appointment. Do you think it could be a bad fan or heat sensor? Also, the odd thing to me is that it turns off at exactly 30 minutes. Could this possibly be any kind of software glitch? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 391 Registered: May-05 | Anything is possible. Watch it come on and play past the 30 minute mark while the tech is there. Typical! I've even heard of bad infrared eyes causing a shutdown. |
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New member Username: JtdlpPost Number: 3 Registered: Oct-05 | I recently purchased the 46in Samsung DLP and after about 2 months I started noticing what I think is a problem but maybe you guys can confirm it. When I watch cable or DVD's, it almost seems like the refresh rate is messed up. If you see someone close up talking, parts of their face are moving at different speeds. It's almost like it takes a second for the right side of the screen to catch up with the left side. I guess a good example would be that it seems like the image is melting or liquid. Does this make any sense? As you can see I'm not technical at all but this is really starting to annoy me and I am considering taking the TV back and getting something else. |
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Francomc Unregistered guest | Just bought the 5067 tonight... anything special I should know. I have been reading the posts (Very helpfuil - thanks to all). So I pretty much know what I'm jumping into and what I need to upgrade now that i have the TV (Receiver and DVD) Just wanted to throw this message out and see if anyone had some thoughts.; |
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Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 111 Registered: Jun-05 | You'll definitely want to spend some time tweaking it, the factory settings are severely whacked out on the movie settings. I spent a couple of hours with Star Wars on mine messing around to get the skin tones right. Once I got it set the way I liked it I haven't touched it since! |
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BritBazzer Unregistered guest | Hi, In the last week, my 6163 has started to switch itself off for no apparent reason. It powers on just fine again from the remote control. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening, or what I can do to fix it? Thanks! Barry |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 419 Registered: May-05 | Possibility 1: There are two fans, one for the lamp and one for the DMD board. If either slows down or stops a thermal shutdown sensor could be triggered. Dust accumulation is a possible cause. Blocked air flow is another cause. Fans are easy to clean or replace. Possibility 2: The infrared receiving eye has become faulty. It's been known to happen, though rarely. If it's your first year call 1-800 SAMSUNG, prompts 2, 1, 3, 1 and schedule free service. They usually cover some things beyond a year too. |
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New Buyer Unregistered guest | Weak Input - No Signal?? I just bought a HLR-5067 50" (3 days ago)...at first no problems, but now when I am watching TV(hdmi)/DVD(componet)/or playstation I will randomly get an 'weak or no signal' error and the screen will go black. It will flicker back and forth and then the signal will return. I have checked all the cables and since this is happening for all three diferent connections it must be something with the TV. Anyone else have this experience? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
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erik55555 Unregistered guest | I recently purchased a Samsung HL-R5667W. Cable company installed Motorola Cable Card version 4.05. After install the channels were working fine but then a delay would occur. I would change channels and it would take up to 15 seconds to change or not even change at all. All buttons on control and tv completely stop working. If the tv is unplugged then the channels will once again work but only temporarily. Cable company came out a second time and stated all the channels downloaded fine and once they left and I started to change channels the issue mentioned continued. I also get error messages that state, "not available in current mode" or weak signal. I do not have these problems with the cable card out of the tv and just using standard cable. I called Samsung and they stated it sounds like a signal problem. Any suggestions, the cable company should be coming out again this week |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 464 Registered: May-05 | There is another extensive thread about all the CableCard failures and how the technology was rushed to market. Cable companies blame set makers and their lack of firmware upgrades and set makers blame cable companies and their flawed cards or PCM control standards. Cable wasn't ready for it and may never be. Get yourself a set top box or hook it direct or both. Direct TV is a better technology. When they roll out mpeg4 next year it will be even better. |
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New member Username: Lc_124Glen Cove, NY USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-05 | I have a 61-in Samsung DLP for 2 years, hardly use it, Recently the whole background becane red, I can not ajust it by set up the tint. Is is a popular problem for Samsung? ANy suggestion? Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: KeithahortonBaton Rouge, LA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-05 | I have a samsung 61-in DLP and after about 20-30 minutes of working time, the screen blanks out on me. I still see the lamp lit on the back. If I turn the tv off for about 5 minutes, then back on, it will work for about 5 more minutes, then blank out again. The next day, it will work for about 20-30 minutes again, then blank out. The sound works fine even when the screen blanks out. Any suggestions? |