Archive through July 24, 2005

 

FYI
Unregistered guest
You want the extended warranty that covers lamps. It will pay for itself in two lamps or less. That's just smart! You will buy them every 18 months or so anyway!

Here is a reputable online warehouse with excellent reviews. The "Mack" warranty extends the original manufacturer's warranty. There is no tax unless you happen to live in their state.
I think the price is excellent!

[link removed]

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=5029645& isbn=&pid=

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FYI
Unregistered guest
Now...I can't get the link to work.
Try this one.

[link removed]
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Still didn't work!
Try this one, then type 5674 in their search box.

[link removed]
 

Anonymous
 
how is it that they can sell it for 1k less then retail stores
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
It's a pretty store.
It has pretty salespeople who make big commissions.
It has overhead expenses that online warehouses don't have.
It's a rip, but people walk in and pay more than they should everyday!
 

Anonymous
 
fyi
thanks for all your help
have a great day from your new pal here in massachusetts
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Check out the last few postings on this thread!
That guy got a good deal somewhere!

https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/122917.html
 

arcane
Unregistered guest
Hi I have a question regarding the samsung 5063w dlp. I'm having some problems with the image appearing slightly left of center. I'm using a thx optimizer disc to adjust the settings and when they show the widescreen and 4:3 screen tests, the borders of the image are always cropped off on the left side by about an inch or so. Is there a way to manually shift the image back to center or do I need to return the TV for another? Thanks in advance.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Always repair rather than replace unless you intend to upgrade or change brands. Otherwise, you may trade for new problems, especially with the 63 series.

There is a service menu that a technician can access for adjustments. If you feel it's that far off, call 1-800-SAMSUNG and set up a factory warranty service call.
 

Anonymous
 
So I managed to fix the screen off-centering problems via the service mode. However, something triggered yesterday and now I'm unable to view anything coming in from my component cables (namely game consoles like ps2, gamecube) sound is loud and clear though. The same problem occured with my onkyo dvd player until i flipped on progressive scan mode.

My guess is that somehow, i managed to change a setting on the tv to get it to only display progressive scan input? How does one go about switching it back? Sorry if this post sounds confusing. As you've probably guessed, i'm totally confused myself =). Thanks in advance.
 

Mike 92612
Unregistered guest
I just bought a 61 inches HLP6163W this week. Not seeing any HDTV program yet because still waiting for the new HD box from Cox. But, with the current box, the regular TV programs have a terrible quality picture, much worse than what we had before with a regular TV set. Tried (unsuccessfully) to adjust the settings. Any ideas? Is that possible because I am still using the old non-HD cable box, or some defects from Samsung?
 

Klaus
Unregistered guest
Try running the cable directly into the tv and see what the analog channels look like. These cable boxes tend to be garbage and the digital upconversion doubles the lines of garbage. If the picture looks better after running the cable directly, try to see if your HD cable box when you get it has a pass through option for signals. That will allow the 480i signals to be upconverted by the TV not the cable box.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Mike,

Cable sucks! Get a satelite service. You won't be happy with standard definition on that 6163 until you do.

The Samsung Direct TV SIR TS360 HD/Terrestrial receiver is a perfect match for that set. You can hook up an old style uhf antenna and pull in local digital network broadcasts that carry primetime HD programs for free. Then, it combines those channels into the DTV programming on the same guide. DTV was offering 6 months of HD for free last month.

One last thing...you need 12 feet or more distance from that 61.
 

Firefly1201
Unregistered guest
I have the Samsung HL-P4663W 46" DLP and a problem that I don't believe I've seen on here.
I can't get the closed captioning to work with cable. I don't even get the option in the Menu (it's grayed out).
The option comes up when the input is TV, but my cable comes through another input and for some reason, I can't get closed captioning.
Any advice?
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
The s-video input will allow all of the set's features.
Same goes for the single video inputs.

The component inputs are dumb inputs that assume you have a device attached that has it's own feature menu.
It's something you have to live with when using component inputs.
 

Anonymous
 
Video delay: Sam HL-P5685W. I'm using DVI-out from my PC, 720p video is being sent from the video card (Geforce 6800 GT). I notice a delay between what's happening on the video card and when it happens on the screen. This is noticable when playing something like Quake3, which moves very fast, by simply moving the mouse. I'm so sensitive to it, I can sense it just using my mouse cursor on the desktop - it's actually harder to select icons and such.

Question is: CAN Samsung do anything about this? If I call their support, is it remotely possible they'll send someone to adjust something? I know some people think this is just a "DLP thing" but I would think there has to be something that can be checked - firmware version (I think I have 1031, haven't looked in a while), or special menu option adjustments, IE, disabling certain video processing features that I might consider to be worth it (already disabled DNIe even though I like the effect).
 

califaa
Unregistered guest
I have a Samsung HCN5529WX, 50 inch TV hooked up to a Comcast cable box. When we first turn it on, there are thick pink and gray lines running across it for about 10-15 minutes, but there is audio. After the 10-15 minutes, everything is normal. Any solutions? Have others had the same problem?
 

To califaa
Unregistered guest
Ooooo....sounds like a video board malfunction.
Hope you bought the extended warranty!
 

Andrew B.
Unregistered guest
How about this problem:

Samsung HLN567W DLP

Had the color wheel replaced yesterday (as expected) under warranty. When the tech finished up he turned the set on with the button on the side of the tv. Picture and sound had no problem and quiet as a mouse. We powered down with the button on the side. -- After returning from dinner with friends, I try to turn on the set with the TV remote (factory)..nothing. I used the remote to turn on all of my other Samsung components (HD931 DVD + HD Sat Rcvr) so I eliminated transmitter question. Anything I may be missing before I open up another warranty ticket - actually add to the original one?
 

New member
Username: 5thwheeler

Torrance, CA United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-05
Did you try pressing the MODE button and either the S.MODE or P.MODE to reset your remote to TV?
 

New member
Username: 5thwheeler

Torrance, CA United States

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-05
Costco is selling the HL-P5674 with the stand included for $2699.99.

Be careful assembling the stand, its made of very flimsy and fibrous particle board I recommend have a tube of magic glue close by during assembly.

As for the the 5674, the picture and sound are great, but I am having trouble with the vertical white lines appearing followed by a lose of video. I had to unplug the TV and wait at least 30 seconds for it to reset itself. This problem occurred twice and I am wondering if it will settle down on its own? Although I don't have HD Directv in place yet, the standard picture and sound is great.
 

Andrew B.
Unregistered guest
5th, thx for response. I tried that after reading your post, no luck. I truly believe its in the IR receiving unit of the tv. Something must have jacked it when the repairs to the color wheel were being performed. Not sure how/why though.
 

New member
Username: Alincal

Post Number: 10
Registered: Mar-05
I had the vertical white lines on my 4674 after three weeks. When I contacted the store I bought it at, they immediately offered to replace the unit. No problems on the new one.
 

New member
Username: 5thwheeler

Torrance, CA United States

Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-05
Well the honeymoon is over with my one day old 5674, the white vertical lines keep coming back and then I lose the picture entirely. Sometimes I get a psychedelic picture and the remote and side buttons won't work. The only way I can turn the set off is by pulling the plug. Well I pulled the plug for the last time this morning and I'll have to call Sammy. I don't want to take the set back to Costco. I thought all the problems were with the 63 series units, wrong!
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
I have the three-lights-of-death problem, and unfortunately, my HLM507W is out of warranty, so I'm going to have to pay to replace the light engine. Can anyone who's had theirs replaced tell me what the part number is and where to get it? I don't see it for sale on samsungparts.com.

Thanks.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
You don't need a light engine. You need to replace your lamp.
Check for the brand you have.

BP96-00224A LAMP ASSY./ TOSHIBA 40''-50'' $199.99
BP96-00224C LAMP ASSY./ PHILIPS 40''-50'' $199.99 see detail
BP96-00224J LAMP ASSY./ PHILIPS PHILIPS, DLP 6 $199.99

http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Thanks for the info.

The lamp is ok, I think. It is fairly new (two months?), and when the TV does turn on (about 1 in 10 tries) the picture is bright. Just looking at the lamp itself, I can see that it's not burned out, etc... Is there just something wrong with the design of the lamp itself? (It's the Toshiba.)

Maybe I haven't read enough of the posts, but the general message I got from other threads on this forum was that the three blinking lights meant that either your lamp was out or the engine itself needed to be replaced. I thought that was what so many people were upset about. Am I wrong? I hope so, because buying another lamp is a lot cheaper. I will certainly buy one and give it a try.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
I didn't know your lamp was new.
However, it could be a bad one. It's not uncommon!
The Toshiba lamps have that characteristic!
There was a conversion kit to switch to the better Phillips lamp.
I don't see that it's available anymore.

It could also be the ballast that fires the lamp.
It costs about the same as the lamp.

If it was the light engine, it would never come on.

In the mean time, you can get the lamp to fire by slapping the lamp door area a couple of times lightly after pushing the power button. Worked every time for me until the guy came to replace it. Also, you can just leave it on 24/7 until the part arrives. I looked for your ballast, but didn't see it listed. You may need to call them.
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Cool, thanks a lot. My new lamp is on the way. If this lamp does the same thing (works for a little while, then three-blinking-lights) then I'll replace the ballast.
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Screwed. The lamp doesn't fit. The power connector is completely different... It doesn't make sense that they list three different lamps for the HLM507W and some of them don't fit. Anyone know which of the three lamps is REALLY designed to work with the HLM507W? I know the Toshiba fits, but it apparently sucks and causes the three-lights problem. The one I ordered is the Philips BP96-00224C, and that doesn't fit. I guess I should try the BP96-00224J, by process of elimination...

FYI, you mentioned that there's a "conversion kit"... Any idea where I can find that?

This sucks. I've been without TV for weeks now...
 

Klaus
Unregistered guest
Cowlick:
Have you tried Samsung to try to find the proper fix? At the minimum they should be able to give you the latest lamp info. Also I have read in these posts that they have honored systems out of warranty for known issues to keep customer relations up. I would suggest that approach rather than haphazard guessing. You might also get a pleasant surprise.
 

New member
Username: Kustom81

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-05
This is a great forum. I have a Samsung HLP5063 that is 1 month old. In the first 5 days, I got the blinking lights of death, I called Samsung and they sent me a new bulb. That fixed that. But, lately the picture goes dark for about 2 seconds every so often. Pretty annoying. I still have sound when this happens. I have it hooked up to a DTV HD receiver through HDMI. DVD player through component does not do this. Is this a common problem, and is there a fix? I am an electronic tech. and could probably do it myself if there was a common part that Samsung could send me.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Eric,

The DVI/HDMI roll-out is somewhat premature. If you replace it with component cables all will be fine. Most of us can't really see a difference in pic quality.

 

twick
Unregistered guest
With all of the problems I have been reading would I be better off purchasing an hlp4663 or the new hlr4667? any ideas? the price difference is about $250 for the newer model.
 

Bronze Member
Username: 5thwheeler

Torrance, CA United States

Post Number: 13
Registered: Apr-05
Eric Shaffer, are you using the H10 Directv receiver? Directv was, and may still be having problems with the H10 receiver momentarily blacking out the picture coming from the satellites. Its been a few days since my picture blacked out and I'm hoping Directv corrected the problem on their end. I haven't noticed the problem when watching locals over the air.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
FYI
Unregistered guest
Posted on Thursday, May 19, 2005 - 11:55 am:

The 67 takes the place of the 63 with a newer, faster 720P chip in it's 5th generation light engine. Added is the CableCard and internal digital tuner in a floating screen design.

Get the 67! It's well worth the price difference.
It's too new for any feedback, but should not have the minor production issues of it's predecessor.
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Klaus:

Yes, I tried contacting Samsung's support department before I tried anything else. The support lady's fisrt question was, "Did you purchase an extended warranty?" It has been nearly three since I bought the TV, so I honestly couldn't remember. I told her that I would have to check with the store where I bought the TV. She said "Well, if you bought the extended warranty, then you'll arrange the repairs through that store." Then she said that otherwise, all she could do was refer me to a repair shop in my area and I would be on my own to get it fixed.

So, of course, it turned out that I didn't buy the extended warranty... Stupid, I know. So I called around to a few different places, and none of them were any help at all over the phone. They all basically just say, "Bring the TV in to the shop and we'll take a look." They want $60 just to look. And even better, the TV won't fit in my car, so they would actually have to come to my home to even look at it, which is an additional $220 (at least). So, roughly $300 just to find out what's wrong, and then possibly another $1200 if it turns out to be the light engine. I'd be better off just buying a new TV.

But, all of that is really moot, anyway, because no one seems to know what lamp actually works with this TV. There's the Toshiba lamp, which is crappy and lasts about 2 months (based on my experience as well as others posting here), and then there's the Phillips lamp, which doesn't fit my TV.

So it's pretty obvious what would happen if I did shell out the $300 for the repair guy to look at the TV. He'd say, "Looks like your lamp is out. $200 for a new one." And he'd install the same crappy Toshiba lamp that caused me all of this trouble in the first place, and I'd be right back on this forum in about two months, but with $500 less in my bank account.

This is not a good situation to be in. Not having the warranty sucks, but I'm not sure how much it would help here. I guess at some point, Samsung would just replace the whole TV. I think that's what I'm going to end up doing, which really, really sucks.

Nearly $4000 for a TV (yes, that's how much they sold for when they first came out) and I get two and a half years out of it.
 

To Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Dude....you can get the right lamp.
Not all Toshi lamps last two months.
Might not be the lamp anyway.
You can get a ballast if you need one.
You can do this stuff yourself.
This isn't rocket science.
You don't need a repairman, yet.
Work through it, man.
You can do it!
Call Samsung Parts. Get the right parts.
 

Bronze Member
Username: 5thwheeler

Torrance, CA United States

Post Number: 14
Registered: Apr-05
I agree with To Cowlick, it ain't rocket science and if you can't do it yourself ask any teenager that hooks up his/her own vidio games or his/her own computer to help you.
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Being able to "do it yourself" obviously isn't the problem. It should be clear that I know how to install the lamp, as I said that I've already done it. "Getting the right part" isn't the issue, either.

The problem is that there simply is no lamp that works (reliably) with this TV. The only one that even fits this TV is the Toshiba, which is well known to have major problems. I called Samsung Parts and the conversion kit (Toshiba to Phillips) has been discontinued.

So think for a minute about where this leaves me... I have to (once again) buy a $200 lamp and just blindly hope that I happen to get a good one that lasts for a year or so. If I don't get lucky, and it lasts for two months, what are the odds of Samsung Parts accepting a return on a lamp that I've already used for two months? Not good. So I just keep spinning the roulette wheel like this, paying $200 every time, for as long as I own the TV. Sometimes the lamp lasts two months, sometimes a year.

Replacing the ballast at this point wouldn't make sense. That would be a long-shot gamble that might or might not fix the problem. There's nothing suggesting that the ballast is the problem... I mean, I could replace every part in the entire TV, and I would still be stuck in the same situation with the hit-or-miss Toshiba lamps as my only choice.

Look, Samsung is fine and all, and they make nice TVs, but the main point that I hope anyone who reads this thread will get is this: BUY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. I can't believe that I was so idiotic not to have done this. It was only for four years, though, and I guess I just expected something like a TV to last much, much longer than that. And the guy who sold it to me neglected to mention that the warranty would also cover lamp replacement. Ah well... Live and learn, and then BUY THE WARRANTY.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
Actually, only Best Buy is offering lamps in their extended warranty and they will soon discontinue that practice. Many of us are in the same position as you. We will buy lamps as we need them. I have purchased two spares because I don't want to be down at all. One is the full assembly and the other is just the lamp, which I will solder in when I need to.

Now...you got some good time out of that first Toshi, (not the 2 month one) and you may well get good life from others. However, the 2 month one was still lighting up. Is it really the lamp? It may well be the ballast! You can try another lamp and you may well have a spare. You will be buying it sometime anyway. If the new one doesn't function properly it's definitely the damn ballast. You are getting indications that it could be either. Work through it! You will succeed!
 

FYI to Cowlick
Unregistered guest
In addition to the above post, there are ways to protect and extend lamp life. These are mercury arc lamps that get quite hot. If you have a power outage the lamp can't cool down properly because the fan has no power. The lamp can be damaged if this happens. The use of an uninterrupted power supply will prevent this occurrance. Excessive on/off cycles are hard on the ballast and the eletrodes. Limit this to one cycle a day or less. In the "service menu" you can select lamp levels. If your viewing room is mostly dark, there is no need to have this on the highest setting. Brightness level in the user menu can be turned down too. Mine stays on 42. I'm not saying to compromise brilliance on your favorite shows, but be aware that proper THX adjustments will bring your brightness down anyway.
 

Klaus
Unregistered guest
Cowlick:
Don't despair. I had a 437W open box for 3 weeks and the lamp gave the 3 lights of doom when I brought it home that night. I reseated the lamp and it worked. Problem cropped up intermittently. Samsung tech put in phillips lamp, same problem. I took it back and bought HLP4674, but I have since seen posts that indicate that the ballast gives this symptom. You could get a list of Samsung shops and then call around and see if they are knowledgeable, also you could try calling Samsung service and tell them your problem ie the new lamp failed and see if they can point you in the right direction
 

Ecow
Unregistered guest
Does anyone know for certain how to fix the lag problem for ps2 with Samsung DLP TVs? I have hooked it up to every conceivable input type (coaxial, composite, and component), and there is consistantly at least a 200ms delay, which makes it almost unusable. I have thus far found no options for changing from 480i to 720p etc., but if anyone knows of a way to get rid of this, let me know. I can deal with the rainbows, but not this.
 

To Ecow
Unregistered guest
It's model specific.
What model do you have? 63?
The HLP5067 is lag-free!
I believe the HLR's are ok too.
 

New member
Username: Klaus

Holiday, FL USA

Post Number: 10
Registered: May-05
Ecow, try turning off dnie and digital noise reduction
 

Unregistered guest
Dammit its an HLP5063. Probably no chance they will let me exchange it, eh?

And I've turned off all processing features
 

Bronze Member
Username: Klaus

Holiday, FL USA

Post Number: 16
Registered: May-05
Ecow:
Call Samsung! they may now have a fix, or may exchange.
 

New member
Username: Deegan

Post Number: 3
Registered: May-05
I'm seeing a ton of people with complaints about the HLP series DLP's. I'm eye-balling the HL-R6167W, the 2005 model with all the upgrades (including the 10,800rpm wheel, the air bearings, etc.).

Does anyone have any experience with that particular model and how it relates (or equals) the poor performance of the older models listed here?
 

Authentic DLP4me!
Unregistered guest
Hi again, Deegan,

The R models are really too new.
They just hit retailers a couple of weeks ago.
Maybe you could snatch one up and tell us about it.
I'm not sure the older models had "poor performance".
There were some production issues, but Samsung Service came through under warranty and out of warranty to fix and improve those models. The negative threads have fallen off lately.
Every brand is going to have it's growing pains.
Samsung has come pretty far in resolving issues.
They only use the higher grade Phillips lamps.
They have implimented a new "air bearing" color wheel.
They have gone to a single screen design eliminating smudges.
The fans run very quiet.
The cost of replacement lamps is lower than any other model.
I'd say they've come a long way, unlike some other brands,
Hell, RCA still charges over $600 for a lamp in one model.
Pan...ic is over $300 and it won't last a year.


 

New member
Username: Deegan

Post Number: 5
Registered: May-05
Authentic DLP4me!

Great info and good points. I think I'm leaning heavily toward the Samsung model over the Mits version and will post my results (good or bad) here. Solid forum, glad I stumbled into it.

(Perhaps you ARE the original!)

Take care.
 

Hey Cowlick
Unregistered guest
Cowlick,

Hey guy,

How did things turn out? Was it the ballast?
 

Unregistered guest
I purchased an HLP5063W on 1/5/05. Can someone tell me how to access the service menu (enter the service mode)? I've had problems with dark scenes looking grainy with a green hue to them. I am using the component cable hook ups. The technician made some adjustments in the service mode that helped but I would like to adjust slightly more.
 

FYI
Unregistered guest
At your own risk!
Don't ever select "User Reset".
Here be demons.

With power off, mute + 1 + 8 + 2 + power.
Arrow around.
Power off completely to exit. (until fan kicks off)
Good luck!
 

Unregistered guest
Now you've got my intrest! Can you tell me some of the "risks"? Sounds like i'd be better off not even going there?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 15
Registered: May-05
Lots of numerical values in menu names I've never seen or heard of before. Having the service manual would be a big advantage. You may not need a service menu adjustment. Here are my ballpark values for user settings. See if you're close or try them and see if it helps. These are derrived from using the THX setup on the "Ladder 49" DVD.

Mode + Standard
Color Tone + Normal
Contrast = 95
Brightness = 45-50 for ambient room light.
Sharpness =25
Color = 42-45 to your taste. Don't overdrive it.
In "Setup" in "Color Weakness" my green is on 3.
 

Cowlick
Unregistered guest
> Cowlick,
...
> How did things turn out? Was it the ballast?

Still struggling. A repair guy came and replaced the ballast and still no go. This guy wasn't an "authorized" Samsung tech, but he was willing to make the house call for free, so I gave it a shot. His first guess was the ballast, so he ordered one, we watied a week for it to arrive, and finally he installed it, but apparently it's something worse than that.

So I'm basically shopping around for a new TV at this point. Anything more serious than the ballast is going to cost four digits to fix. And once that was fixed, I'd constantly be worried that it would just break again, or that something similar would break, and I'd be faced with another thousand dollar decision.

Bad times! But thanks anyway for all the suggestions. It's not fun when "learning a lesson" costs you $4000. But I learned. Buy the warranty, my friends.
 

Anonymous
 
I am thinking of purchasing a HL-P4667w and am wondering if any one has thoughts on the extended warranty which to me seem expensive 300-500$ for 2-3 years. Also lamp replacement is 300 for two bulbs over a two year period. If the replacement lamps are 200 it would make sense to me to just wait and replace when needed as well as the price possible coming down. Any thoughts of wisdom from anyone?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 23
Registered: May-05
Consider the HL-R 4667W!
It's the latest model with newer chip and light engine.
Some credit cards extend the manufacturer's warranty an extra year.
These are new inventions! We are the testing ground! From the posts I've seen, it's a good idea to get some kind of ext. warranty.

Two year lamp warranty for $300 is too much.
 

Anonymous
 
Thanks for the info! I checked online and found the HL-R4667W for $1777.77 and a 3 year ext. warranty for $179.0 S&H 150.00. Not too bad for the new technology. Other thoughts out there?..............
 

Anonymous
 
That's an excellent price for a 3 year warranty.

The $150 shipping is 25% less than most online retailers.

The set price is very ballpark too.
 

Anonymous
 
Sound/Video delay continues....Just got the Samsung HLR-5067 50". Picture is great, but having the same problem as mentioned in an earlier stream from last fall. When I play surround sound through my home theater system, sound and video on the TV is delayed by a fraction of a second (50 ms?)compared to the home theater. I called Samsung and they said never heard of that problem, though I saw many folks here have same issue. I assume its due to delay in microprocessor time on TV for DLP compared to faster sound coming in direct from cable box or DVD player.

Anyone know if this is a problem that can be solved? I think I can use the optical audio output from the TV to the home theater input so the sound playing on the home theater is after processing, but then all components would need to feed through the TV (DVD, video, non-HD cable inputs) instead of home theater and there may not be enough audio and video inputs. I don't game but I've seen other websites that say this is also a problem with gaming with a slight delay from joystick action to onscreen action so this really is a big problem for the samsung dlp. Any other solutions?
Thanks all.
 

New member
Username: Helpful_smurf

Post Number: 4
Registered: Jun-05
I ran all my sound (DVD, Cable/DVR, PS2) into the the TV first and then out to the Home Theater Reciever (after shutting off the TV's speakers with internal Mute) and have noted no delay whatsoever on any of the connected devices. It also makes it easier to switch between inputs since I don't have to mess with the Home Theater inputs.

HS

 

Anonymous
 
HS - Thanks for the reply. Thats what I think I will end up doing.

2 other quick questions though - I wasn't sure if by doing it that way you still maintain the full surround sound audio signal from the DVD player and the HD cable box. i.e. is there any digital surround sound loss having the all the component sound fed through the TV and back out the optical or audio out of the TV, or is all the signal maintained? When I initially called Samsung, the rep I spoke too wasn't sure and its not addressed in the user manual.

Secondly, you mentioned Play Station 2 works OK - I thought the problem seems to be processor delay in the TV, and I've seen lots of other posts here and elswhere that gaming on the Samsung DLP is a real problem because the fraction of a second delay is particularly noticible with rapid movement or driving games. Are you saying you don't find this issue with your PS2?

Thanks again for the reply and anyone else...
SJI
 

New member
Username: Helpful_smurf

Post Number: 6
Registered: Jun-05
I have not noticed any loss of surround with this setup. I read elsewhere that the sound synch issue on the 63 series was circumvented by this method so went this way to avoid having to change cables over if it did turn out to be an issue with the 67s.

As for the PS2 I have played all my favorites, SSX3, Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas, Tiger Woods 2005 and just started Star Wars Episode 3. All rely on fast button action and I could not detect any lag at all. They all played normally and looked awesome.

HS
 

Anonymous
 
Thanks.
I just rewired everything so now all goes through the TV inputs and the TV output goes to the AVR so everything is in sync. It definitely seems to keep the surround sound information so thats not a problem.

But its driving me crazy that Samsung made me feel like this is a non-issue and the Tweeter salesmen I worked with don't know it either.

I came up with a very simple test that you can do in-store ot or at home to prove this.

Just take either your portable DVD player (if you have one) or camcorder or laptop computer and plug it into the AV inputs on your DLP. Play a tape or DVD and make sure the sound is up on both your portable unit and the TV. With mine, you can definitely hear the lag on the TV compared to my portable- its a little tricky on the ears but it has an echo sound. I did the same test on my old standard TV and there was no delay. Now, technically I know that every TV has a delay for the electronics, but old TVs are probably in the milisecond range (like 1-10) whereas the DLPs are in the 50-250 range which is perceptible.

If you have a chance to try this im curious what you find. I suppose diffrent makes of DLP have different lag times and some may be below the level of detection.
Anyway, I think this is a good inhome or or in-store test you can do on the TV before you buy if you are serious gamer (which I am not) or for some reason need the sound to go through the AVR first.Anyway, I can at least prove it to the Tweeter guys what Im talking about.
 

mtdewd
Unregistered guest
FYI:

You mentioned that a technician replaced your color wheel with an air bearing version. Do you per chance have that part number, and the number of the original color wheel assembly?

I want to check to see if it's even close to the one in my TV, a HLM507W, colorwheel is BP96-00250A.

thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 43
Registered: May-05
The new one is a BP9600674A for my HL-P5063W, which is a 7 segment at 10800rpm.

I have no idea what the old part number is.
 

mtdewd
Unregistered guest
FYI:

It looks like your TV is quite a bit newer than my HLM507w, so I doubt the colorwheel made for it will retrofit into mine. Therefore, I probably will not be able to get an air bearing upgrade version for mine. So if I just replaced my colorwheel today with out-of-pocket expenses, I would probably be doing it again in about 2 years. This does suck.

Oh yes, the cost to extend the warranty 2 years beyond the basic manufacturer's warranty would have been about $200. I'm not sure if I would be winning the gamble, since the cost to replace the color wheel is about $150 right now.

If Samsung was so proud of their equipment, they would have included the 3 year warranty with it.
 

New member
Username: Kustom81

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-05
My red stand by light on my HLP5063 stays on all night, after I shut it off for the day. Is that normal? Everything seems to work fine.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 44
Registered: May-05
It's normal.
 

Unregistered guest
Hey folks - I have not yet seen this problem, but I was hoping someone might have an idea of what the problem, might be.

I just bought a Samsung HL-P4663W 46" DLP yesterday. I brought it home and set it up, turned it on and all is well.

After a few minutes, everything that is 'supposed' to be BLACK in the picture, turns RED. For instance - if the TV is in 4:3 aspect, the bars that appear on either side of the picture that are Normally BLACK, appear bright RED. It also effects everything within the picture as well.

This is not 100% constant, as it comes and goes intermittantly. However, it has been RED far more than it has been BLACK. If I had to put percentages on it, I would say it is 80% red and 20% black.
 

Unregistered guest
Continuation of above::

Upon further review, it seems that there might be something loose in the TV.

When something loud happens, i.e. an explosion or deep booming voice, the RED stuff goes away, or reappears.

Any idea as to what might be loose????
 

CaptJim
Unregistered guest
I just placed an order for the HL-R6167. Am I going to have to be dealing with lip-synch issues or has this been resolved with th 67's. If it's not resolved, I'm going to go with the Sony 55" LCD.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Helpful_smurf

Post Number: 11
Registered: Jun-05
Sound synch has been fixed in the 67 series. Just run all your sound through the set first then out the audio out to your home theater and you'll be just fine.

HS
 

Bronze Member
Username: Klaus

Holiday, FL USA

Post Number: 69
Registered: May-05
Gregger:
You have a loose component video cable or a bad input for that cable. It is quite common. Check all component connections. The bass is jiggling the cable enough to make and break contact. Sometimes it is necessary to slightly crimp the outer contacts on the RCA connectors so that they grip properly.
 

Steve and M
Unregistered guest
First I'd like to thank everyone who posted to this forum. I've learned a lot just from reading the previous messages.
My wife and I have been researching HDTV widescreen TVs for a few weeks now. We're leaning toward a Samsung 50" DLP. After doing more research on the web, I noticed that it might be worth waiting for some of the new technology that's coming out. I'd be interested in hearing your opinions about the following:

1) 1080i I saw one website that's taking orders for new Samsung TVs, 56" and larger, with 1080i Internal Formatters (or something like that). Do you think this will make a noticeable difference in picture quality? Do you think it's worth waiting for? We'd like to get a new TV within a couple of months.
2) Another website mentioned that the 3-chip DLPs are better because they have a chip for each basic color and they eliminate the color wheel. I think they said they are currently only available in high-end units. Do you think this will become available soon in the more reasonably priced TVs?
3) I haven't done as much research on the D-ILA (uses LCoS?) TVs. I know there are some out now, but I read that that technology is improving as well. Anyone know about this?

After we purchase a TV, I'll post to this site to let you know what we purchased and what we like/dislike about the new TV.

Thanks!
 

New member
Username: Nitetripr

Post Number: 5
Registered: Jun-05
Beware: the HLR6167W does not have an optical or coaxial digital inputs. So be prepared to update older equipment.

Just an excuse to updgrade my DVD player.
 

Unregistered guest
Klaus: Thanks for the tip.
I am actually running everything through an automatic RHF (i think) converter. It's the thing you need when your TV doesn't have any RCA jacks... ANYWAY.. all my components connect through that and when i turn one on it switches to it. All that to say that all my components run through the box and into the TV through the COAX cable. I thought that might be the problem, but when i ran individual components the problem still existed no matter which inputs I use.
This leads me to believe that it is something else internal.

Any other suggestions, ideas?
Thanks again!
Greg
 

Bronze Member
Username: Klaus

Holiday, FL USA

Post Number: 72
Registered: May-05
Greg:
You need to connect through a connection other than the coax. you are in effect changing all of your material to analog RF , the worse that the set can handle. You do not mention what components that you have. You should try cable box or satellite if you have them via component cables (three RCA connectors red, blue , green). If you do not have either of these, connect a progressive scan dvd via the same connection. It is possible that you have a bad connection in the set, but more likely it is somewhere before the set.
 

Sean12
Unregistered guest
Hi

I am having Sansui 27`` Colour TV.
I am facing a terrible problme with it these days.
After some time the display suddenly turns dark pink shades and its painful to the eyes.
It remains like that fro hours together.
Please help!
If anybody knows whats wrong with it??????

Thanks in advance !
 

Sean12
Unregistered guest
Hi

I am having Sansui 27`` Colour TV.
I am facing a terrible problme with it these days.
After some time the display suddenly turns dark pink shades and its painful to the eyes.
It remains like that fro hours together.
Please help!
If anybody knows whats wrong with it??????

Thanks in advance !
 

Steve and M
Unregistered guest
Nite Tripper: Thanks! I wrote the info in my notebook.

Steve
 

Unregistered guest
Samsung DLP Color Problem - HELP

I have a two month old Samsung HLP 50" DLP TV. The colors look great while I'm on HD channels only. When I switch to regular TV, or play a DVD the colors blend together to make everything look like a cartoon.
Any advise? I've tried a new HD box from my cable company and that has not worked.
 

New member
Username: Mccambley

BREEZY POINT, NY USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jun-05
stephanpb: The fact that your problem is with the DVD player and regular cable means its with the TV. Are you using different input for HD and regular tv. Try S-video with SDTV. All inputs on these TVs are ajustable independently of each other.So when you adjust component video input you are only effecting that one input.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 54
Registered: May-05
stephanpb,

I'm with Casey in that each tv input has it's own "user settings" memory. Color is usually overdriven right out of the box. Contrast is too low and sharpness is too high.
I like my contrast on 90 and my sharpness on 20. I keep my color level around 43.

That said, cable tv is really an aweful signal source for most people, most of the time. Big screen sets reveil this fact particularly when viewing old standard definition analog NTSC 4:3 broadcasts.

Your DVD player's menu should be set to output 16:9 at 480P resolution. This input of your set will need it's "user settings" adjusted as well.

Play around with it and let us know what you think.
 

Unregistered guest
Regarding the delay issue:

I googled this site looking for PS2 delay issues.
Is it correct that the delay is due to the DLP processor or upscaler?
If it is the upscaler, has anyone tried to pass the composite through a PC using a video capture card and use VGA or DVI ?

I have an HTPC that's connected using DVI. I think I'll try it.
 

New member
Username: Finneyd

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-05
what is the latest generation?
to whom can i contact in order to get mine upgraded if I have an older model?
 

hockstatter
Unregistered guest
kylehase, any luck with that htpc? i wonder if there is such a device that could do a quicker 720p conversion (like an intreceptor between devices and the television). samsung's chipset is so rediculously slow, and they'll never take this issue seriously. i called them on this issue and they told me, "it's not a defect, because these models are made like that". great business from samsung!
i just avoided picking up a dvd player recently because it had their label on it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 62
Registered: May-05
Patrick,

The R 67's, 77's, and 87's are the latest.
The 1080P's coming out soon will end in 8.
There are no updates to existing models.

hockstatter,

You can't beat an upconverting HD841 or HD850 Samsung DVD player until the HD DVD's come out.
My HD841 produces almost HD quality at 720P.

kylehase,

Which model are you having trouble with?
The R series is performing well with PS2 according to recent posts from HS.

https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/137734.html
 

hockstatter
Unregistered guest
FYI, thankyou for the reply, i'll check out those models. though, i don't like to support companies that conduct business the way i've seen samsung do so. i was actually thinking of holding out for the new playstation 3. hdmi out, dvd player, hddvd player, 720p, 1080i, 1080p settings, backwards compatibility for ps2 games. maybe the system will upconvert ps2 games ultimately eliminating the lag. i've also heard that the controllers will be bluetooth enabled, no need for a remote control? anyone hear any more info about this?
 

Anonymous
 
I am interested in purchasing a dlp home theater projector. I know nothing about them. Could you give me some on ideas on what to look for before purchasing such a unit?
 

Brent1234567890
Unregistered guest
Has anyone else lost any pixels on thier DLP?

I have a 50" Samsung DLP and there is one pixel(mirror) not responding and you can easily see it. I called Sasmsung and they told me "You need to have three dead pixels in the same quadrant before we will do anything!"

I feel ripped off thinking that this TV was not suppose to lose pixels. And certainly not this early in it life.

let me know if anyone has the same issue.
 

Unregistered guest
have a new 50 inch samsung DLP. I have been trying to compare the quality of the different connections and setups.
my problems:
hdmi to dvi cable = no sound. comcast cable box only has dvi and audio cables. do i need to return my dvi to hdmi cable and get a straight dvi to dvi.
another problem: component input worked fine for my cable input until I tried the hdmi port hookup. After having the sound problem with the hdmi hookup, I went back to component and now my component hookup's picture scrambles and comes in and out. During the time that the picture was visible, I noticed that I lost my zoom function so my widescreen setting does not fill my screen.
I tried powering off the tv for 10 minutes and also allowed "reprogram?" time for the comcast box. still the cable to component does not work. The compontent jacks work fine if I hook up a dve player to it.
does anyone have some advice?

 

Silver Member
Username: Mr_lynch

Seattle, WA

Post Number: 793
Registered: Sep-04
Introuble-

DVI does not transmit audio. It is for video only. Your DVI to HDMI cable is fine.

It sounds like you need to adjust the settings on your cable box. Some Samsung DLP sets do not allow you to "zoom" when it recieves a 720p/1080i signal. Switching your cable box 4:3 output to "480p" should fix the problem.

To access your cable box menu, turn it's power off and press the "menu" button on the front of the unit.
 

introuble with wife
Unregistered guest
Mr. Lynch,
Thanks for the advice. I will try it out later tonight. I was suspecting the cable box to be the cause of my problems because when I select Tv, cable coax input, my channels and tv both work fine. The dvd player to component input also work well. I suppose an internal portion of the rear panel could have went out but since it worked at the beginning I was thinking/hoping that somehow I developed a compatibiltiy problem between the box and the TV. The cable installer stated that he did not know much, that he does not work for Comcast, only wears thier shirt. So, he could not answer any of my questions and I was disappoited that I did not get some information/instructions on the box. At this moment, I do not know my comcast/motorola cable box (type or model) but how could I get more information on the menu functions that you described? Is it pretty self explanatory once I access the menu? thanks again for your time and help - I truly appreciate it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Helpful_smurf

Post Number: 23
Registered: Jun-05
You'll need to switch the settings on your comcast box I think. My guess is if it is the Motorola Box, turn the TV on to the cable input, and turn the cable box OFF then push then push the menu button on the front of the cable box. This should access the settings menu and you can change it over to a more compatible output for your component cables. Once you get it set stop screwing around with it, unless you LIKE being in trouble with your wife :-)

HS
 

introuble with wife
Unregistered guest
Thanks Smurf for the help. Pretty busy weekend - was not home much so still didn't get a chance to try the settings on the cable box. Once I finally get the hookup correct, I will take your advice and leave it alone. My wife cooks for me when I do not disappoint her. I am quickly losing weight that I can not afford to lose. I need to get this new HD TV working right. thanks again for the info.
 

Not Giving Up
Unregistered guest
Ok, this is my 1st post, so pls bear with me...
2 days ago bought Samsung HLR4266W. Noticed it's not as clear as what I saw in store.
Day 1: Connection: Monster coax cable from wall to HDcable box, Monster coax from box to TV. Hookup is just like the manual. Picture on regular stations fuzzy on some, grainy on others. Movie channels, smooth-clear picture. Able to use TV remote functions and enlarge the HD channels to full screen. Went back to store and was sold a different cable. The only cable I changed out was the coax from box to TV with a HDMI cable. Followed Manual hookup. PQ still the same. Now I can't use all the functions of TV remote. Can't enlarge HD channel pic.
I know this may be elementary for most of you, but in reading the posts, I hope someone out there can assist. Thanks.
 

Don't give up!
Unregistered guest
Here's another unhappy cable subscriber!

A true 720P or 1080I HD program will fill the screen without the use of your set's sizing features. Because they are digital they will never have snow or grain. You must mean that standard drfinition cable channels are snowy or grainy, which is nothing new. You must also mean that you are zooming ATSC digital networks that normally have black bars on the sides until a primetime HD program is broadcasted on them, which, by the way, also fills the screen without sizing.

I don't reccommend that you alter the size of any programming, especially cable tv signal, which is the worst signal to feed these HD sets.

When you say "Movie channels, smooth-clear picture" it makes me think your cable provider is not providing uniform signal quality throughout the entire channel line-up. This is very typical of cable tv signal and your provider is the guilty party.

Hook up a progressive scan DVD player to a component input using component (Pr, Pb, Y) cables and see how the picture looks. I'll bet it's fine.

You can try to get your cable provider to improve the quality of standard definition and improve uniform quality overall, but you may never be satisfied at their effort...if they make one.
Sat subscribers don't have these issues.

You can get perfect reception of digital networks that provide some primetime HD programs by hooking up a UHF antenna to your ATSC tuner input. Direct TV HD will take care of the rest.
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