I have a sony DVD player that came with 5 speakers and a sub (DAV-HDX466). I wanna get a Blu-ray player. But i would like to not have to buy an all new speaker system too. Can I just buy an inexpensive receiver and hook up my DVD surround, Bluray and HDTV?
In short order the answer to your question is yes with conditions;
Does your DVD player have seperate audio out other than the speaker connections? Are the speakers standard wires and 8 ohm? I would also keep in mind that you must make sure your speaker capacity matches your new receivers output watts...
I checked on the back and it has an HDMI output, i assume that will work? im not very tech savy thats why i put the model number on there so u could look it up and see if the speakers could handle that
Is this a dvd/receiver combo? How old is this system?
A few yrs ago, Sony started making their package deals 6 ohm systems. Their latest systems are 3 ohm systems and the speakers have special plugs on the ends. They don't want you to upgrade. If you have one of these combos, adding blu-ray would not workout unless there is also an HDMI INput. Getting a receiver based system comprised of components bought seperately would be your best bet if this is at all feasible. If you can give me an idea how much would be willing to spend on such a system, I can help you out. Don't worry about speaker power handling and amp power (watts per channel) these are useless numbers. I know that doesn't sound right, but it's true.
Its not really a DVD Receiver combo but rather a dvd that came with a surround sound speaker systerm. The ends of the speakers do have those plugs on the ends. All i want is to have a blue ray player that works with my existing speakers. If i have to buy a reciver i will. I can spend around $250-350
You can get a Sony or comparable HT receiver in that price range that will be much better than what I THINK you have. This is a dvd player with a 5.1 Channel speaker output right? In other words, it's a dvd player/amplifier combo. If it also has a radio tuner built in, it's a dvd player receiver combo even though it looks nothing like what you are familiar with in terms of what receivers normally look like.
I hope not to tell you what you already know. If I do, sorry. When watching a movie, the audio signal path is as follows; source player, preamp, power amp, speakers. The video signal path; source player, preamp, TV. This true whether it's the simplest cheapest HT in a box system or a $250,000 system. What you are describing sounds like at least your dvd player, preamp and power amp are in a single chasis (one unit). Sytems like this don't generally have upgrades or future technology in mind. My suggestion: buy the receiver. Your speakers will undoubtedly be the next thing you'll want to upgrade. We'll talk about that whenever you are ready.
When you say "plugs" on the speakers what do you mean? Are they RCA style; seperate red and black, or are they quick connect molex type?
The only way you can be sure your speakers will work with a new receiver is to know the impedance (ohms) of the speakers. If your speaker system is 3 or 4 ohms and you purchase a receiver that is designed for 8 ohm speakers then you'll have problems. Also you must consider power output (watts). Allthough a high power system is not needed to aquire good sound you'll want to know what the speakers can handle. Most new receivers are going to be somewhere between 400 and 1000 watts. If your speakers are only designed to handle 200-300 watts then you'll also have problems there...
Robert the plugs were a quick connect type and color coded, a different color for each channel.
The speakers should be at least 6, preferably 8 ohms, but remember this is only a NOMINAL impedence. The actual impedence constantly varies in response to movie sound and music.
Power handling is an essentially meaningless spec. What blows a speaker is clipping, not too much power. In fact, you are more likely to blow a speaker with too LITTLE power than too much power. The amp is not equiped to power the speakers adequately for the listener and so the volume is turned up until the amp clips and the speaker blows. In two and three way speakers, the tweeter blows 1st.
OK, I am a bit confused... Isn't the original question about if the speakers allready owned are usable with a new receiver? I understand how impedence and power works as well as how speakers are blown which is why I am concerned about the use and compatibility of these speakers with a new receiver.
If the speaker connections are quixk connect molex plugs then it is likely that the wiring is also an issue at 20 or 22 gauge and these speakers would be a detriment to the whole system with the addition of a new receiver no?
Robert, Marshall is saying the speaker wires don't have plugs, so moving beyond that, if you understand how speakers blow, why are you bringing up power handling?
The specs that have meaning in a speaker are frequency range, sensitivity/efficiency (# of db @ 1 watt @ 1 meter) and minimum recommended power. The rest of the specs are essentially meaningless.
You mentioned HT receivers having outputs of 400 to 1000 watts. Those are total outputs, NOT watts per channel. Not that said wattage output is any indication of how loud a system can get or how much power a speaker should be rated for (key word: rated). However, you should speak in watts per channel (wpc) in order to avoid confusion. What if Marshall thought he needed speakers rated for 800 watts each for a 7.1 channel system? He'd end up wondering where he was going to come up with $168,000 for 7 B&W floor speakers ($24,000 each) to go with his $350 receiver! I trust you see my point.
Marshall, my next question is how is your subwoofer powered? Is the amp in the cabinet with the sub or in the dvd/amp unit? How is the sub connected to this main unit? How does it get its power? Do you plug it in directly to the wall (or preferably into a surge protector) or is there a dc line from the main unit? Depending on how it's set up, your sub might not be compatible with a receiver. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
Hmm I thought Marshall said "The ends of the speakers do have those plugs on the ends}" maybe I misread this?
You are correct in the WPC but I think your moving beyond what Marshall is looking for. I assumed Marshall would be thinking total output since that's how most average consumers buy. You and I can chat all day about freq. reponse, impedance and power but all this person wants to know is if he can use his speakers with a new receiver.
Correct me if I'm wrong; If he buys a new receiver spec.ed to drive 8 ohm speakers and his speakers are 4 ohm then there will be issues correct? Also, if he buys a 500 watt (total) receiver (5x75 rf-lf-rr-lr-c + 125 s) and his speakers are only rated for 200 watts (total) (30x5 + 50) will Marshall not quickly end up blowing the speakers regardless of freq. response and THD?
I am not trying to get into a pissing match here but sometimes those of us who understand the dirt in the details of HT performance, acoustics and audio reproduction converse beyond the common consumers understanding and expectations. Most people don't even understand how sound is produced with speakers!
In getting back to Marshall's original question of whether he can buy a new receiver and use his current speakers we need to know the specs on the speakers to make that determination and post a simple answer... If we can give him this answer and hopefully encourage the purchase of a compatable receiver / amp that will allow for future upgrade and expansion then this would be an ideal conclusion to this thread.
No, I miss read. The speakers have plugs, but the wires can be cut at the plugs and stripped.
Again impedence has no REAL meaning because the impedence constantly varies in response to the signal. Also, most of the speakers available in this gentleman's price range will be 8 ohms anyway.
As for power handling, you could take 30 watt speakers and run way more than 30 watts into them for hours without doing them any harm as long as the amp doesn't clip or distort. You can blow those same speakers with a 5 wpc amp just by cranking the volume to where the amp starts clipping. I know a guy who powers his 800 watt B&W speakers with a pair of McIntosh monoblock amps rated at 1200 watts each. He's been known to run the full 1200 watts into each speaker for hours at a time. The only thing harmed: his ears! Mac amps don't clip!
Specs, as they pertain to output power and speaker power handling really are meaningless. They are just numbers on paper and nothing more. They have no meaning in the real world. Sony, Denon and a number of other companies have pretty extensive spec sheets for their receivers. Most of these specs have no real meaning. They have no more meaning for the people who designed the units than they do for you or me.