Sound Proofing??

 

New member
Username: Vexhold

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jul-05
Ok this is my plan for the single wall atatching my theater to my house...


12" concrete wall
2-4" air pocket
2x4 studs with poly insulation in between each
2 layers of QuietRock overlapping
carpet
Drapery

Hows that look?

Only problem now is the ceiling and the door..

Any ideas?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Em69

Post Number: 12
Registered: Mar-05
To make it even more effective:

1. Delete the 2-4" air pocket, but add resilient channels to the studs on the walls and ceiling. This provides the separation and increases your useable space.

2. Use batt insulation instead of poly
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe_c

Oakwood, Ga

Post Number: 624
Registered: Mar-05
I disagree, I left a 5-6" pocket between my insulation and the firm board mounted on the back side of the studs. If you read about sound travel, a small open space inbetween sound proof areas is more effective than filling the whole space. I live in a townhome and I have had this thing up to 122db at 12:30am and they coudn't hear a peep.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe_c

Oakwood, Ga

Post Number: 625
Registered: Mar-05
Also , if you can float the ceiling. That is to create new runners connected to the side walls onlyfor the ceiling. And for the door buy a solid composite door from home depot/lowes , they rn about twice as much as the std doors but are worth it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Em69

Post Number: 14
Registered: Mar-05
5-6" of air pocket is unecessary and inefficient. The resilient channels provide a sufficient air space, plus, it reduces the transfer of vibration.

I've done plenty of research on sound travel.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe_c

Oakwood, Ga

Post Number: 674
Registered: Mar-05
That's ok, we can disagree.
 

New member
Username: Vexhold

Post Number: 8
Registered: Jul-05
so explain what you mean by the resiliant channel
 

Bronze Member
Username: Em69

Post Number: 15
Registered: Mar-05
Resilient channels are typically constructed from 25-gauge sheet steel and contain holes in the web of the channel to provide flexibility. The fundamental purpose of the resilient channel is to provide a means for attaching gypsum board to the supporting structure without actually permitting the board to directly contact the structure. It is the de-coupling of the gypsum board from the framing that provides the improved sound transmission loss.

 

Silver Member
Username: Joe_c

Oakwood, Ga

Post Number: 682
Registered: Mar-05
em69, I agree that resilient channels are very effective, I just think for this application a pocket will suffice. Given the cost and labor going into the alternative. That was my disagreement.
 

New member
Username: Vexhold

Post Number: 10
Registered: Jul-05
this is what i originally planned
image/bmpUpload
wall.bmp (75.9 k)
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe_c

Oakwood, Ga

Post Number: 720
Registered: Mar-05
Looks good to me.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Em69

Post Number: 16
Registered: Mar-05
Staggering the studs is the best way of doing it.
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