Nivea Cream was for the CD and Cassete drawer guides. ;-)
I had a D100 but found that it could not drive my speakers properly. I spoke to Denon about this and they assured me there was no problem and that I just had the wrong speakers. I just did not sound like 40 watts per channel. I also found the sound although very clear it lacked bass and warmth and sounded too clinical for my taste. Anyone had similar problems?
I had the stock Denon speakers with plenty of power bass.
About 2 years after tried the Monitor Audio 7 Awarded speakers, with plenty of loss of bass and power.
I then bought a pair of Celestion 3 MKII speakers, 100% compatible with the HiFi sound. Much better than the Denon speakers, warmer and better detailed.
They have 88dB/1w sensibility, what about yours? A diference of 2dB means you need twice the power for the same volume.
I was using a pair of Wharfdale Laser 150 (i think) I think their sensitivity was 91db. I tried the Denon with other speakers too but found with all of them the amp cut out when i turned the volume too high. I have a Rotel RA840BX4 amp now which is also supposed to be 40 watts but this sounds much better and works very well with my speakers and sounds much louder.
You cannot compare 40 w from a Rotel RA840BX4 with 40w from the D100 Amp.
You have diferent power supplys, circuits, etc...
In numbers you should also compare current for example!
Is'ts tahe same as power vs. torque in an engine!
And not to mention sound quality!
This is my first posting here.
I have a Denon D100 system with a problem with the CD player it will not open any more but before this it just registered no disc on the screen even when a disc was in.
Is this a common problem and does anyone out there know where to get spares or have it repaired or alternativly have a CD unit for sale?
Re. Denon D100 This does seem to be a common problem . On Ebay there have been and is one currently offered for sale describing a similar problems with the CD unit. In my case, although my unit is about 12 years old, it has had very little use. It started 'playing up' the disc would not eject ( my wife discovered by inserting a thin hair slide and pushing round the eject gears ,to give it a start, the disc would then eject ??? ) This problem was overcome by reducing the pull of a spring some where in the eject mechanism . It now sometimes plays the first -ish track but then nothing , non of the buttons work --- but for the eject , that still works !!
I bin searching all over for this exact problem....the denon I got is a 6 changer mini system and a few times after getting it,it would get stuck and not eject. Now I got 6 CDs in and they won't play and they won't come out. It's fairly new. Anyone know how to fix [I'll try the hair slide method first] and where , if anywhere a manual can be downloaded? Thanks for any help.
I just got my DENON D-100, it sound amazing! It's an old stock brand new and got for $480.00 Im in the U.S. and using voltage step up transformer. I have also the best ones: Denon point compo 7.5 / 9.5, 6.5, F10 But I can differ which sounds better among them.
Anyhow! I have read all your questions and solution regarding the CURSE problem of the D-100 CD DECK. After opening the box, I have same problem and it's easy to fixed the problem of sticking and not ejecting. It took me an hour to realized that the SPRING (located on side) that binds the holder on top of the mechanism is very tight to pull by a small loading and ejecting belt. SOLUTION: Remove the spring! and You will never have that problem again! Hope this helps!
Hi everybody, got the problem with the loading/ejecting belt after about 13 years. I think that removing the spring is not a good solution because its tension keeps the CD in the right position. The unbalanceded mass of a CD which is not in the right position might destroy it in worst case because of the high rotation (although this is more probable with a dvd due to its higher rotation speed). If you watch a worn-out belt working you will see that the side which is not under tension gets the form of a banana. That means that the belt is too long and the friction on the small motor wheel is not good enough to drive the whole thing. I removed the belt and saw immediately that the two sides of its square profile which were under friction for all these years are very glossy compared with the two other ones which are rough and so would have more friction. So I tried turning the belt with an angle of 180 degrees in order to get the rough surfaces to the inside. It worked for a certain time but the belt was in fact too long and had to be replaced. Try an O-ring if you don't find a supplier for the original belt, but maybe the friction is worse because a round profile cannot have the same friction on the small driving wheel as a square profile would have (compare it with the friction of a V-belt = fan belt in a car's motor).
Robert Schneider, I guessed you have analized it too much but unnecessarily that has nothing to do with the contributed problem neither the solution to it. You're exagerating to a point where it didn't require to further resolve the sticking issue.There's no such thing as unbalanced to a degree due to high rotation. The fact that is the cd sticks as it EJECTS, the cd holder on top (spindle support) was metal made, has sufficient weight to sustain rotation. Also,That didn't changed my cd unit in regard to sounding. There's no such thing as the belt is too long to where it looses it's friction. The gear is plastic. Rubber and plastic doesn't create friction resulting to the belt loosing i would rather call "GRIP" counterpart into ejecting process. Loose belt is loose belt..... One more step, I forgot to mention before faulting the belt issue.> I also noticed the FLAP-DOOR is rather stiff to push by the tray and found the solution:> is to hold down a minute or exercise to loosen a litle bit into repeating process as necessary. that's it!!!...
KK, I still have the D100 system in fully working mint condition like new!. Let me tell you something! if you are having problem with the remote, There's nothing could substitute an original. And certainly there isn't any replacement for if the original doesn't function and to assume you would use a universal. There is a way however to repair your remote so don't throw it away. All you need is a good cleaning inside out. here's what you should do: disassemble the remote by removing the screw, open the battery lid, while facing the back of your remote, on your left, gently lift the wiring (battery spring holder) while you began unlocking the clip, startat the buttom thru your fingers all the way up. be very carefull. when you do that! you may clean the cosmetics including the rubberize buttons with mild soap and water along with the brush, rinse and hang them dry or by using a blow dryer. Now! here's the the interesting part. The remote board? clean the whole board with cotton balls soaked with tape cleaner liquid solution available to any electronics store in your area, while cleaning, you will notice some dirt from the cotton however don't rubbed it to hard, you wouldn't wanna wipe out the entire carbon from the board that signals the remote so be very gentle. it must dry fast, so you won't damage the electronic chips and IC's. don't use any alcohol or benzine. As you watch it dry, you may then re-assemble and you be surprize! hope this helps, goodluck!......if you are reluctant to ask, i can do that favor for you! it's my pleasure!
The case where you stated about the remote when it stop functioning has nothing to do with the mother board. Even if you were accidentally dropped the remote. It doesn't brake that way!. Imagine it's been over 10 years! From time to time, it has accumulated airborn dust and smoke. You may not aware but it happens. Reason Im not recommending a universal remote is: I have same system with several denon remote including universal, but function capabilities limits the Original remote. You may work on UP and LOW volume in some cases but the cassette deck won't recognized signal from a universal remote unless the original remote signals into the universal remote. In order to work a universal remote to this system is to have the original remote working in order to transfer data signal to the universal. know what im saying? and it's a good thing as well so, you can keep the original in safe place....................................It may take you a while to figure how to open it since it has never been open. Im pretty sure it's too tight for you to try. Inside the battery compartment has 2 identical clips at the buttom each sides. Try loosen up one after the other, lift one up while trying the other again. Repeat the process till you finally get them up...When you get it, there are 2 remaining locks going up about 1 1/2 inch gap all the way up to finish. doing so, with your nails, Push the buttom body cover of the remote gently inward only .......KK be patient!!!!...You will brake the cosmetic or you may open it successfully!....
Kevin! System this old over ten years. Denon won't carry parts anymore! don't even try to call or search the internet for parts cause there's only an existing information or parts list you can obtain but not nescessarily available for purchase. Even if a merchant will promised you to, they can only say to you it's on backorder? don't beleive that~ cause later on! before you even realize you have placed the order, they will then tell you, the part you're looking is NLA..................However~ it's not the end of the world for your D-120, I know you will put any effort just like I did with my kids ( D-100 & DENON 7.5 Lol!) first thing! go to ebay and look for the systems that has thesame power ribbon connection. Systems that made during that era 1990's. Any idea? well most Sony shelf system like the MHC Model, some are technics, panasonic who uses ribbon connectors. Trust me! it will work to your D-120. GOODLUCK!
I do not have a manual for my D-120. I agree that these mini-stytems are fairly intuitive and you can always use the RCA conneectors to the DAT and VCR inputs to add additional (standard) components.
However, if you are going use other Denon mini-system components, you will most likely need the ribbon connector system that intergrates these together. I know where you can get a 15pin connector if you need one, bu not the 7pin ribbon connector.
If you just have an amplifier, I have a tuner for this series that I would sell you for cheap, but again, you will need the ribbon connector.
I too have a Denon D-100 which I bought in around 1991. It is a great little system and has been fault free until last month where I too have had the CD tray ejector sticking, and the No Disc message appear (this is part of the same problem as the loader does not complete the process of seating the disc correctly) I found this forum by chance and see it seems to be a common issue. I have completely stripped my CD player and re-greased all of the contact points for the sliding mechanism, but it has had no effect. I tried the spring tension, as I read here, no effect. Checked the belt, took it off and refitted it, no effect. I then found if I lifted the small pulley wheel a bit with a small screwdriver, it worked, although it must have been a bit high as it made a noise as it slid out, but at least it worked. I have lowered the pulley wheel a fraction, and while it is a little bit laboured as it ejects, it is fine if you just hold the flap down to ease ejection. Its not a perfect solution, but at least I can still use my excellent system for a bit longer. Repair centres wont take on the repair as they say it is too old to obtain spares, but I have found a local place that deals directly with Denon so they are going to take a look at it. The problem is just wear and tear I'm afraid, the ejection motors and slide mechanism's will start to seize after a long time, everything does after a while without maintenance. If by some miracle the service technician can repair it, I will post info on the parts required and tell you what was done. Fingers crossed!!!!!!!!
I have an old but brilliant D100, I'm going to try some of the ideas from this forum on the sticking CD drawer, but I have a question: can I set the default / startup input to be DAT/VCR? Normally at power up it defaults to tuner, and of course changes to CD if you play a CD, but I want it to start with DAT/VCR as that is where I usually play stuff from. Anyone?
Andy, that won't be possible. Simply because the eye of the remote sensor is located at the tuner section as default to all input settings as activate during the playing process controlled mainly by the ribbon connector.
Hi Just to let you know, the cd ejector tray fault is repairable as spares are still available. S&L in Southampton can carry out the repairs. Its the drive belt and pulley that need to be changed, forget all the other technical crap. If you need info contact me on e-mail email@example.com
ok, first you have to have the right cable from the headphone out to RCA (red and white ) in to the video input, or auxiliary. Then, turn the volume up to your ipod, minimize the volume of the system so, it won't blast your speakers.
I have two D100 systems and they both have the same defect in that the cd will not play. It starts the first track and then gets distorted. I believe it may be the laser that is at fault or the tracking mechanism.
Does anyone know a solution and know where I can get a new laser?
What sort of discs are you trying to play? If they are burned discs I would suggest getting better media as in some recordable discs are fine for data but do a truly terrible job handling music files (and the various mechanisms ask to play them).
Hello, this is my first post here and I arrive looking for the same problem that Marco1 had. The CD player start playing distorted and after some tracks it stoped. That is when he can play it at all. They are original CD that play correctly in any other system. In fact this is my second CD player for the Denon D100 (bought in eBay). After the first one had the same problem and I broke it trying to repair it. After some tests I discovered that pushing the metal piece that holds the CD improves the listening, so it seems a problem with: A) the power of the laser B) the distance between head and CD. Does anybody had the same problem? I don't want to break a second unit trying to repair it incorrectly again.