I have spoken to Bose about the pin configuration and this is their answer:-
1 - 10v trigger 2 - Gnd 3 - L + 4 - Gnd 5 - R +
Those are DIN spec pin numbers.
My problem is that I want to connect this to the output from an Apple AirPort Express so it effectively becomes a set of AirPlay speakers, but since I am not connecting it to a Bose head unit, there's no obvious trigger mechanism and Bose say that with no trigger, the unit will simply remain in standby.
Can anyone suggest the best way to arrange for an automatic trigger based on the audio signal input? Or any other way to achieve the same end?
How about an external voltage trigger? Wire up a battery or battery pack to equal or slightly exceed the 10V trigger and add an on off switch. The trigger shouldn't require any real amount of current so a battery pack of AA batteries wired in series would probably do the trick.
That seems odd. If the trigger must be triggered - , you're probably up the creek with your kludge job on the Bose.
If you can read a schematic and solder up a trigger board, put "DIY 12V trigger circuit" into a search engine. This however, entails a power supply and far more circuitry than a simple on/off switch. If this is to run off a 120VAC power source, then you're getting more serious than I would bother with. If you don't have either of the above skills, then I would say you need to rethink your plans.
There are a number of compact self-powered speakers available today. Almost any of them would, IMO, sound better than the Bose speakers. Audioengine makes some very nice products for not much money. Any music store or pro sound retailer should have a selection of powered monitors. The choice amongst systems devoted to the Ipod or MP3 players is too large to name just a few. Just naming those which run on a battery pack would be a full day's job.
Or you could start with a small battery powered amplifier like this; http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=756
None of the T amp style products are so large they can't be held in the palm of your hand. Many can be run from a battery pack of rechargeable AA/AAA batteries or a single sealed lead acid battery. They are also capable of running off a 12VDC wall wart power supply (about 2" X 2" X 2" in size) to conserve battery life. I'm currently running a T amp off a SLA in my main system. The battery runs about $15-20 and the floating charger will set you back another $30-40. A pair of small speakers with any of these amps and a portable player would easily fit into a briefcase and travel with several hours playing time on the battery pack. Cook up a search engine title for a traveling audio system and you can probably get several ideas which would, IMO, all be a better option than the Acoustimass speakers which are still limited to a pair of 2 1/2" drivers. The Bose systems are generally heavily equalized from within the Bose receiver to provide a reasonably extended low and high end frequency response. Not all, but several are. Without this eq the Bose systems are going to sound very flat.
What's your ultimate plan for this system? Are you looking just for a traveling system that is compact? You have to keep in mind the volume potential of most small systems. They can fill a room but they aren't going to rock the house.
I had a faulty cable linking my Bose CD/Tuner/head unit to my Bose Acoustimass 2683-1 powered sub/satellite system. Chucked the head unit, which had already failed.
I can confirm the wiring schema above with Left on 3 and Right on 5.
According to Wikipedias entry on DIN plugs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector this is the standard connection pattern for 5 pin DIN to RCA plugs. I was able to buy an off the shelf standard 5 pin DIN to RCA cable and then add in an RCA to 3.5mm stereo plug, then link my Sony Android phone to the Acoustimass 2683-1 system and voila, music!
I have an Acoustimass 5 sub and Cube speakers but the CD5V2 is dead.
The Power Amp to Sub and Cubes works well but as no volume control, my question is, How can I line into this unit with another preamp and control the power amp volume using the 5 pin input as the CD5V2 did?