Initial phonograph setup.

 

New member
Username: Icculus

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
I am brand new to the vinyl player world. Found one that belongs to my dad, a Dual CS 1268, opened it up and fixed it.

The main thing that I did was take off the main arm (please forgive my amateur terminology) and took off the stylus. There was an automatic Start/Stop feature that I also had to repair.

I took the stylus off of the arm. This is one thing that may have been a mistake. The stylus can be rotated and mounted at different positions along two channels. What should I be looking for when I find the correct mounting position/angle?

I guess I should have started out stating my problem. Everything works great except every once in a while the record will skip. The sound is great. I hooked it up through a preamp and fixed the wiring and cables. The records seem pristine, however still will skip. This will happen after a few minutes of playing at different locations on the record.

Currently the counterweight is adjusted all the way towards the stylus; the stylus has a lot of pressure. What should I look for when it comes to adjusting the counterweight?

There is another knob near the pivot of the arm. There are numbers 1-3 with many hash marks. What does this do and what should I look for when adjusting it?

The anti-skating feature, as I see from the mechanical 'guts' of the player, adjust the rebound tension of the arm. Is this just a trial-and-error setting? I understand that there are different settings for spherical and elliptical styli. What is the difference? The stylus is a Shure M95ED.

There are also screws on the top and side of the pivot of the arm. Is there any reason to worry about these?

The arm would not go all the way to the 'last groove' point (again, forgive my terminology,) once a record is complete.

All of these problems lead me to believe that there is too much tension pulling the arm to the outside causing it to skip. If I put a small amount of pressure near the pivot to push the needle inside it plays seamlessly. I guess I am posting my own troubleshooting procedure but with only questions on how to set it up.

I understand that this is a loaded question but bear with me, I purchased my first records today and, not only don't want to ruin any records, but want to continue the purist musical listening experience :-)

Thank you in advance for any advice


ADDITION:

When the needle gets toward the center of the record, the problem occurs much more frequently.
 

Gold Member
Username: Mike3

Wylie, Tx USA

Post Number: 1957
Registered: May-06
Good post Colin.

However I will stop there. While I could offer an opinion, JV could be along in short order and open up a dialogue with you which should get you where you want to be.

Hold off on spinning vinyl until then if you could.
 

New member
Username: Icculus

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
Noted and appreciated. Anxiously awaiting :-)
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 13613
Registered: May-04
.

http://www.dual-reference.com/index.html


http://www.audiophilia.com/features/cartridge_setup.htm


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New member
Username: Icculus

Post Number: 3
Registered: May-09
Wow... Gimme a day or two and if I still have problems I'll let you know
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 13614
Registered: May-04
.

Dual used a series of plastic cartridge alignment guages that were supplied with the turntables.

They made installation of the cartridge a much simpler task since there is no access to the cartridge screws on most Duals once the cartridge holder is in place and attached to the headshell. You can use a standard alignment guage that matches the tonearm's effective length or you can search for the correct alignment guage for your table.

If you have the cartridge installed correctly and the arm balanced properly and the arm still won't track properly, the first thing to check is the anti-skate mechanism. If that is correct, then there is some binding going on in the arm's automatic functions or wiring. This is basically disassembly and reassembly work but can get very confusing. You'll need to clean old lubricants and replace them with new. Sometimes mechanisms get bent by user absuse or by accident, that means you'll have to straighten and align pieces and then reassemble the table bit by bit. This really isn't work that should be undertaken by the first time repair person. Take the table to a good tech for this work.


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Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 13615
Registered: May-04
.

"There are also screws on the top and side of the pivot of the arm. Is there any reason to worry about these?

The arm would not go all the way to the 'last groove' point (again, forgive my terminology,) once a record is complete."



The stylus on the 95ED is elliptical.

DO NOT touch the screws on the sides of the tonearm pivot point. You will permanently damage the alignment of the bearings and possibly damage the bearings themself.

The arm doesn't need to travel to the last groove. It should lift sometime after the last track has finished and before the stylus reaches the label area. If you adjust the tonearm to lift too late, the stylus can be damaged by an off center label.


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New member
Username: Icculus

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-09
Initial testing has proven very positive :-)

One problem I found was that the pivot of the arm was not properly reassembled. Once I popped this back into place it started working much better. Plus I changed the downforce to about 1.2g... the recommended is .75-1.5 and toward the lower end it still skipped when it got toward the end of the record.

I'll keep posting my findings
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