I was at my local dealer's a couple weeks ago and they started carrying the McIntosh Blu-ray player - for around 9k. I mentioned how I didn't think they'd be selling too many 9000 dollar blu-ray players, but they had sold one the first week they had them in. Nuts.
If I had to have a soup-to-nuts, one-stop-shop system to outfitted by one manufacturer, I'm going with McIntosh, speakers and all.
But Nuck, it matches so nicely?
And while McIntosh is owned by D&M Holdings (which itself is owned by Mitt Romney's Bain Capital), I've never heard of McIntosh sharing any of it's technologies/products with sister-companies Marantz or Denon.
Can someone call around and dig up those sales numbers?
But Chris you would want to pay the difference for the Wf-35 its a huge difference between the 2,i was in the market for these to pair with the MiniWatt and they are very very good and explosive with unbelievable bass.But they were just a tad to bright for me although i heard them on solid state gear they kind of made me second guess getting them,i still might try them with the prices going down they are a beautiful well built speaker to boot 1 of the best lookers out there,highly recomended!
Trust me Chris its a really big difference,i prefer the Hsu hb1mkII for $398 a pair over the wf-34's,dont ever listen to the 35's you will wish you payed the extra $260 and you will be banging your head into the wall.I know its against your budget hunter ethics Chris,but i dont believe i've ever heard that big of a difference from just 1 model up ever and thats not to say the 34's are bad they a good speaker but the 35's are just that good.
Hello Tawaun! I am interested in hearing your comparison between the Evo 2 10's and the HB-1 MK2 's. The HB-1 MK2's sound like a nice speaker based on the reviews. Do they sound better or just different from the Evo's?
320 constant bitrate is a waste. If you're going to use a lossy format, LAME V0 (VBR, up to 320) will sound just as good and result in much smaller file sizes, which is a good idea for portable anyway. Exact Audio Copy is the way to go for ripping, and Burrrn which uses the same engine is the best way to get them back on CDs should you need to.
FLAC is definitely the only true lossless, but it is also very heavy on bits. Still, it was very hard for me to tell the difference between FLAC and wma lossless except by how much hard drive space FLAC took up.
FLAC is not the only true uncompressed as far as I know, WAV is. WAV is uncompressed PCM decoded in LPCM, which is full on, untouched PCM audio. FLAC is a codec that was created by Josh Coalson that employs a lossless data compression. The file is compressed, and upon being opened is uncompressed. Just like Apple Lossless or Windows Lossless(wma). The only difference between those two and FLAC is that FLAC compresses less upon the rip. If you take a cd and rip it in FLAC the file sizes are stored at about 20 percent smaller than WAV. WAV LPCM format is the true uncompressed format. I personally can not hear a difference between FLAC and WAV, although some hardcore techs I know claim WAV LPCM sounds better. The one huge benefit WAV has over FLAC is that it plays on a much wider variety of players and does not need any extra codec installations to play on the likes of certain built in OS players and such.
WAV can't hold full tags or album art info like FLAC can, though. I also don't think there should be any quality difference between WAV and FLAC, bit for bit FLAC uncompressed should be the same as WAV.
Those Evo2-30s on Agon are still there, down to $375 now. I'm thinking about grabbing them when I get paid if they're still around, unless someone here wants to take a shot first. I don't really need them, I love the 10s, but that's a killer deal I think.
tags and cover art? huh? I have my MC rip full WAV automatically and every album I have ripped has full tags and cover art. FLAC the same. Tags and cover art has nothing to do with the compression but the program used to rip and catalog the music. WAV fully holds cover art and tags if need be.
lol David, I always want to buy something. I am sick.
lol Dan/Art - I just bought a Naim integrated for 1/4 that, which says a lot since hes got it all for only 3600. Man oh man, if I had more gear to sell I would buy it. Someone has to pick that up before I get sick.lol.
Came across a pair of Vienna HAYDN Grand Bookshelf Speakers at Best Buy. They are floor models for $425.00 for the pair. Are they a good speaker at that price? I know they retail for alot more. Are they a step up from my Wharfies?
Very good price but I'm under the impression they're somewhat difficult to drive. I'm not sure if they're a step up from the Evos(?) or not, the only time I've heard them is in Bestbuy's terrible Magnolia room driven by a Pioneer surround receiver and they were up on a shelf, so basically I have no idea what they sound like.
Well Art, I am listening to the Hayden Grands as I write and I am amazed. The transparency and soundstage are brilliant. The low end is so good Idon't think i need my Dynamo sub anymore.
I got them for $418 because there is a little damage to the upper right back corner of one of the speak ers. You don't see it when they are on the stands. Since I am a budget guy I don't think it is going bother me any. I have thirty days and I can return them is something is wrong. At this point I don't think anything sound wrong at all. In fact, it is making bad recordings sound good. I can't image what they would sound like with a better amp.
I trying to find out what the burn in time is and placement. Right now they are about 8 feet apart towed in toward my listening postion. I do all nearfield listening.
Congrats! The C325BEE is quite adequate for your speakers however if you're looking to move up and want something that will give the bass driver a good kick look at a previously loved Bryston B60 or Naim Nait 5i. Either will provide just a bit more control while not breaking the bank. You're not looking for more watts, just a bit better watts. My advice is to just kick it and enjoy what you have for a bit and then see if you need to make a move.
"look at a previously loved Bryston B60 or Naim Nait 5i"
I love that suggestion.
Better watts is always key. I personally feel the B60 or 5i is a substantial step up from the 325bee although I really like the 325bee and would think you could live with it happily for quit some time.
"I looked at the Creek. Is it a good match for the Vienna's?"
I've never heard them together, and I'm not sure of your listening preferences so it's impossible for me to say for sure. The Creek could comfortably drive them, it would be more a matter of your preference. I've preferred the Creek sound to the NAD sound, but that's just my ears, not yours. All of those amps would drive the Haydn's just fine, but they'd all do it a bit differently.
I've found Creek amps to be very neutral and well balanced, with some gusto in the bass. The Moon would be a bit sweeter in the upper registers, and would be more polite. The Vista Audio amp would be more three dimensional, with a brilliant midrange.
So it depends on your priorities which you'd like better. They're all awesome for the price. If you're looking for a HUGE improvement over your NAD, you might have to go to a higher price range (>$1000). Although I've seen B60's for around $1000 before. Definately worth consideration if you find one.
That hasn't been my experience with them Art. Maybe it's just the speakers I've heard them with. I've found Creek amps pretty punchy generally. With a 89db speaker, I can't imagine its 80W would be "light" at all.
Yeah, Vienna's being dropped, and I think Definitive Tech is too. B&W and REL are new.
I'm not sure how the preamp stage in the 325 is, but you could look into a separate power amp using the 325 as your pre too. That would open up a lot more options and that way you wouldn't have to replace the whole thing. There are almost always great deals on NAD and Rotel 2 channel power amps on Agon.
Best Buy is no longer carrying the Vienna line. They are selling existing inventory and floor models at clearance prices. The pair I got for $418 was used as a demo setup with a TV. There is a little damage to the back upper corner on one speaker. These are the piano black. They need to be cleaned up as BB put some stickers on them that left some gooey stuff. Not sure how to clean them yet. I will give them the 30 day trial to make sure they work properly then I will clean them up. If I experience problems I can return them. They come with a factory warranty of five years.
You can get a new pair for $585 which is still a great price. I suggest checking the stores in your area to see what floor models are selling for. I offered them $500 for a new pair tonight but they would not go any lower.
I don't have the owners manual and I'm trying to locate one. Any ideas on how to get the sticky stuff off without damaging the finish?
What Nad amp sould I consider to go with the 325? I have no experience with separates. I don't even know how they connect to one another. I'm sure my 325 owners manual will tell me.
Something like this: http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampstran&1294329779&/nad-272-bought-new-t his--year- which I believe is the same amp stage they use in the C375. Of course, you aren't limited to NAD (as I said, some nice prices on Rotels currently too), so if you can find something that will get along synergy wise with your 325 which I wouldn't think is overly difficult, you'll be good to go. You'd connect a power amp from the pre-out jacks on the back of your 325.
Bryston and Naim as others have talked about might need something a little more substantial on the front end than the 325 as a preamp though, so going with a new integrated from one of those brands might be a good idea as it'd be a big overall upgrade.
Thanks Freddie. That is a good price too. I may have to give this some thought. It certainly will give me more power. I need to access my needs based on room size (12x12). I don't listen real loud. I like a neutral sounding speaker with a little forward projection. I kind of like that crisp sound. I listen to alot of film score music and I like acoustic and of course rock. Actually, my music tastes have broaden since I have improved my equipment. I can say I like the sound of the NAD but I have nothing to compare it to really. Believe it or not, The Dallas metro area seems to be devoid of many audiophile type stores to go and listen to equipment. I can say that pretty much everything Art has suggested I like. Of course my taste are not well defined at this point. I am just trying to improve my kit at budget prices. I don't see myself dropping $1500 for speakers or an amp. I have about $1000 in my kit now. Considering the Haydns are $1500 retail speakers I certainly moved forward in sound reproduction at budget prices. I also picked up a Martin logan Dynamo sub from Best Buy 6 months ago as a floor model for $300 and the 325 was new for $300.
I don't want to spend more than $500 for an upgrade amp right now. The Creek Evolution fits the budget but I sure would like to hear it first and be sure it is a good fit with the Haydns.
I am still amazed at the low end of these speakers. I seriously don't need the sub anymore. The detail in the mid and upper is much better than the Wharfies. Most of all, I enjoy what i am hearing so far.
Thanks Art for telling me to jump on these. I had read a review on them from Mojo and had decided to not buy them due to their poor opinion. I am glad I got some advice from experts like you guys. I am sure to some with better equipment the short falls of this speaker make them less attractive. I am coming from a lesser quality speaker so Art was right on when he said it was a step forward. Thanks again Art!
To help put your mind at ease about your amplification.
I went to my local best buy with a magnolia to see if I could snag a deal on some Haydn's like you did. The associate working there, at the Magnolia had already bought them before I could. I asked him "what are you using to power them." His words verbatium "an old sony reciever from the eighties that is on the frits that I stole from my parents basement." I responded "be careful you might be stressing the amp causing damage to it and your new speakers."
"It puts out like eighty watts, so it is like a modern one." he stressed to me.
"I would rather power the haydn's with a Rega, its about quality not quantity." I retorted back to him.
He replied "I would rather power it with a Denon reciever."
I walked away.
What I am trying to say is enjoy man, you have a great system on paper and if it sounds good then that is all the better.
Thanks Chris for the thought. The 325 is doing quite well. It is my goal to upgrade my amp so I am trying to understand which amp will make these babies sing even prettier than they do now. Prior to stumbling onto this deal, I had checked with Spirit Sound about a refurbed 326. They just emailed me to let me know they are in stock for $399 shipped. Art says this is better sounding amp than the 325 but I think it is a lateral move more than a real upgrade. If I sell the 325 and the Wharfies I hope to buy a better amp.
Honestly, Mordecai the C326BEE is only marginally better and for me the biggest benefit would be having the capability to fit my spendy power cord (god knows after you spend the bucks you wanna use the damn thing...lol!) to the C326BEE. Don't even fork out more bucks for what is essentially a lateral amp with a detachable power cord! Wait until you are ready to make a real move up.
I agree with Art, the 326bee is only a wee bit improved and would be a lateral move overall. Your 325bee is great in its price range. Wait until you ready, and really move up (Bryston b60, Naim Nait 5i) or just enjoy the tunes on the 325bee. It is enough of an amp to do so.
Okay, have question for you guys. I stopped by Best Buy tonight and now they are selling the Haydns (demo) that are in the Magnolia listening room. They are the last pair and they are pristine. I talked the manager downed to $550 for the pair. The pair I bought for $418 has a damaged corner on one of the speakers. Is it worth spending the additional $125 to get the pair with no damage? I know sound wise and warranty should be the same. I can live with the one's I have and the price is obviously great but part of me wants to have an undamaged pair. Since I am a budget guy my first instinct is always to spend less when possible. I guess the thought of resale value comes into play in my thinking. Should I decide to go a different direction I may have a harder time selling a damaged pair.
I was submitting the warranty info on my Haydns and realized the serial numbers don't match. I contacted Vienna Acoustics and they indicated the mismatch won't effect the warranty. From a resale perspective, is it better that they match? I can't really see that being a big deal but since I have some time to return them I thought I would ask.
Here's my question for anyone with a high end system. Now I realize that when you buy such equipment, in addition to sound quality, you're paying for flexibility, more features and other advantages. Of course, you're also paying for the name, let's be honest here. However, I have to wonder how the price is justified. I have total of $3300.00 invested in my stereo system. Take the video side out that leaves $2500. I feel that for what I paid, I got a pretty great sounding system. The best sounding system I've ever heard was stereo, audio only for $250,000. 100 times the audio side only of mine! Did it sound better than mine? Yes! 100 times better? NOT BY A LONG SHOT! Honestly, it sounded 1.2 times (yes that's one point, two) better than mine. This is with high end sources, pre-amp, power amps, speakers and cables. How does anyone justify this? Is there really anything that makes it worth 1/4 mill?
Of course, you only spend that much if you are rich. $250K is chump change for some people. I can't see myself going over $2,000 per component, unless I become rich too. If I were to buy something that cost more than that brand new I would buy used and keep the actual cash outlay at $2,000. $2,000 will buy a seriously nice pair of speakers, or amp or CD player. Used PMC FB1i for example, or Totem Mani-2 speakers, a Naim Nait XS or LFD or Sugden amp, a Rega Saturn or Bryston BCD-1 brand new. I'm just throwing names out there. I mean, this is far from entry level stuff and is exceptional quality by any standard, IMO. It's still a lot more than you'd have to spend to put together a nice system, which is probably all that most people care about. I think once you drop $1K (new) on a component you are doing more than just shooting for nice, but $1K also seems to be the line dividing entry level gear with something more than that...so it's definitely justified. Just my 2 cents.
My source equipment is mostly Sony. Entry level? You bet it is, but Sony, IMO, makes pretty good sources for what you pay in sound and picture quality and longevity. My last Sony cd player lasted 7 years with heavy use and I have 9 yr old heavily used Sony VCR that works like new (just 2 of many examples). My receiver, spkrs & sub are all well below $1000 each, but hardly what I'd call entry level in terms of sound and construction. Now maybe the fact that I use (or at least think I do) much better A/V and speaker cables than most people do with this equipment has something to do with my system's sound, but my system has been complimented (sometimes angrily) by people who've spent $10,000 or more on theirs. I've heard Denon's 100 year anniversary integrated amp for $2500 @ 80 wpc. I personally did not notice any difference between it and my $400, 80 wpc Denon receiver. When I was young, I really wanted a high end system. Now, given the means to buy it, not so sure I would.
"Here's my question for anyone with a high end system. Now I realize that when you buy such equipment, in addition to sound quality, you're paying for flexibility, more features and other advantages. Of course, you're also paying for the name, let's be honest here."
Incorrect on both counts. Who's heard of Sonneteer? I hadn't until I met a dealer in Eugene. My amp has no remote, no pre outs or sub out. Flexibilty and convenience played no part in my choice of gear and neither did name.
I guess I should have stated what I meant by these terms.
Flexibility: You can use any stand alone pre-amp, tuner, and power amp together, at least theoretically that you want. (I've heard that some pre-amps & power amps don't like each other). You can run the signal from a pre-amp to an electronic crossover, then to a set of power amps for bi and tri amping, etc.
Features: For lack of a better term, beefier power supplies, autoformers, built in power meters, circuit protection, etc. As far as pre-amp level features that most of us would agree do more harm than good, my receiver has no surround similators or device to make you think you're in a cathedral, stadium, etc. The signal runs a pretty simple, direct path from source to speakers. It has a remote multizone capability, but they don't do any detectable harm to the signal and will come in handy when I move. As for the sub out, I wouldn't trade that for the world!
Art, I think of it as a menu. You start with the basic entre. Power? SQ? than you look for those things which can do you some good. 2 sets of preouts on a pre....or pre outs on an integrated is a plus. 2 sets of speaker outputs...may matter to some. Extra controls? Tone controls? Nope. Tape monitor loop? not really. I don't need phono or any of the 'legacy' inputs, either.....tape head or very high output phono cart. Likewise, I don't need speaker selection or meters, though the 'Mac Look' would be very nice. I consider remote as a near necessity. Diving for the vol control while trying to answer the phone.......? not for me.
I guess that for me, at least, I tried to find the right (minimal) feature set with the sound quality I wanted. As it turns out, I didn't even think of the extra preouts OR balanced inputs (1 set) before buying what I got, but ended up using them both. Right now, if I had 6 or 7 k$ extra, I'd sure like to try the Pass INT150 with my panels. But that's not gonna' happen....unless that lotto ticket I buy myself every year at Christmas pays off...big.
I looked at the alebaster online Art. Looks like a good amp. I have to agree with Leo about the the remote and preamp outs though. I guess being a quasi purist is the best I can hope for. I only like music in 2 channels. I prefer not to use the tone control, but if I were not able to reduce the bass, tuning my sub where it sits would be a problem. If I moved it any further from the wall, it would become a tripping hazard. There are no other suitable spots for it. So, I like having tone controls.
REL subs use the high pass and are adjustable...no pre outs or sub out needed. In my room and with the speakers I've owned I haven't needed a sub for my 2 channel setup for a while. I may get one in the future but for now I like what I'm hearing.
Leo, I don't dive for the volume control to answer phone, I just don't answer it. Really. I last used my phone 5 days ago and before that another 5 days.
I simply put the phone where I can't hear it and then I check it for messages every few days. I took stock in what my Father used to say. "I bought that damn phone for me, it doesn't own me, I own it. If someone has an emegency then they called the wrong number, this ain't 911, and if someone died, they will still be dead in the morning and I'll have a good nights sleep"...he said it not me...but there is some wisdom in that.
I got rid of the land line. Only my parents and telemarketers were calling. So, we made sure my parents had all 4 of our cell #s and cut the cord! I keep my cell handy at all times. If a loved one calls, I answer. Otherwise, I hit reject. If it's important, they'll leave a message.
Leo, the landline was on the dnc list as are all 4 of our cells are now. I was trying to get the fcc to take action. That got me far. They said that tmkrs that called b4 we signed up could legally keep calling. We didn't feel like paying lawyers for a big hassle, etc. just not worth the effort. Long story, short, we got rid of it. My parents can't get our srvc provider where they live. (1500 miles away).They have our #s though, so they can reach us. Since only they were calling the home #, and making sure they had our cells was an easy fix, this was the answer. Vonage was only $25 a month, but that was $25 we could put to better use. We're all happier w/o it.
I simply do not answer the phone if I don't recognize the caller. Way too many telemarketing calls. I once got 9 calls in one day from Bell, and they all went to my answering machine. When I got home I had to play through 9 messages of dead air. This happened a few times. Then I sent Bell a nasty email and that stopped the calls.
Our DNC list, and our regulator the CRTC, are both a joke. There are so many loopholes...like companies you do business with can call, or charities, I think newspaper companies too. Why don't they give you the option to receive these calls, but also give the option to receive NO telemarketing calls at all? They obviously aren't in this to protect the consumer and do not care about making a DNC list that actually has some teeth to it. It's a farce.
I make the phone handy if my wife is out and may call other than that there isn't anyone I want to hear from enough to be a slave to the phone...kids, siblings...for me the old man's sayin' holds true. I have a brother who would call 10 times a day if I answered his calls.
Thankfully, I don't have any reletives like your brother. My sisters & I call each other now and then. I speak to my parents more often because of my father's health issues and they don't use email. If a loved one calls, it's important as the person calling matters to me. This is not being a slave to the phone, just caring about people who matter to me. On average, my phone rings less than 7 times a week. So the occassional interuption doesn't bother me.
Art, back to what you said about subs and sub outs. While my main spkrs (or satelites if you prefer), sound great from 70 Hz up, they def require a sub and I'd rather get the sub bass going to the sub @ the preamp level than pass it through the main power amp. While IMO, all systems are better off with a sub, it becomes less of a necessity and more of a preferance when your mains have good bass performance. Floor spkrs usually do, book shelves, not so much. The most important thing is that each individual is satisfied with his/her system.
No one said anything about you being a slave to your phone SJ. I said that "I" won't be. I'm a slave to to the general public all work week, and happy to be, but I'm not good enough human being to be able to take that kind of dependence during my time off. My loved ones (with the exception of my wife) have drained me dry emotionally over my lifetime and now they are on their own. Time to pull up the little girl and boy britches and get self sufficient. I'll continue my vocation of helping those who are either trying to help themselves or who are incapable of it.
Now as you say back to subs and sub outs. Subs are never a necessity and are always a matter of preference. I use one in my home theater and not in my 2 channel setup, by choice. Not that I wouldn't, I simply am unable to buy one at this time that would satisfy. Pre outs and sub outs are not needed to run some fine quality subs.
Both stand mount and floor standing speakers have their strengths and I enjoy both for the things they do well. For me the things that my Harbeths do well outweigh what the DeVores did well, primarily around timbre, texture and getting the balance correct. The DeVore were no slouch's in this area either which means that the Harbeths truly excel. They also are easier to place, the Gibbons were a bear and I was adjusting them every week it seemed. I would like deeper bass but not at the sacrifice of anything that the P3's do.
Worded another way, I've heard my mains with the sub switched off and them trying to do full range. They're much better off with a sub. Speakers with good bass performance do not benefit as much from a sub, but IMO, (again must my opinion) a sub always helps, provided of course it meets or exceeds your expectations.
I think my speakers sound better overall with the sub left off, but some of the stuff I listen to needs the bottom end to be filled out a little. Sub is on the B terminals so its not hard to go back and forth when I want to.
Maybe someday when I have a better room I'll be able to integrate them better so I won't have to....also would love a lower end REL eventually, which I think would work better.
By full range, I meant 20 Hz to 20 KHz. Mine have a range of 70 Hz to 20 KHz. They perform very well in this range, however, below 70 Hz is weak. I've heard many spkrs from $50 each to thousands each that have great overall sound quality, but weak bass and visa versa. Some of the ones with good bass and not so good overall sound were improved by having sub bass filtered out and diverted to a sub. I've only heard a hand full of speakers that really impressed me from bottom to top w/o a sub. B & W 800 series was one, clearly outside my budget. Even those sound better with a sub IMO. My Omnis have amazing clarity and dispersion. I didn't mind laying out the extra for the sub which rounds out the bottom perfectly. The Omnis and the S8 sub together make quite a team. Omnis and sub together: $870.00! I consider this a sweet deal.
To get full range speakers (or a sub and quality standmounts) you have to be prepared to pay dearly for quality. The last couple of audible octaves are the most expensive to realize in any way that reminds one of music. I've heard plenty of high end full range speakers from the Wilson Maxx 2's to Vandesteen Model 5A's and they ain't cheap. I've also listened to the aforementioned B&W's...every speaker I've mentioned have their own quirks, yes they reach down deep but is their top end and midrange as sweet and beguiling as a quality standmount in the nearfield. I dunno, a question we each have to answer for ourselves. Our musical interests will have some part in that, certainly, and so too will the volume you play music.
I never doubted for a second that you know what a sub is Art. Yes the mains & sub are Mirage. The sub and mains together cover the spectrum nicely and very musically. The performance of theses along with the $400 Denon receiver are what make me wonder why people spend tens of thousands on a system only to get one that might not sound as good as mine or only marginally better. It's true that sound quality is in the ear of the beholder, but when people come over, hear my system and leave angry because they spent much more than I did and came away with less, that says a lot about Denon & Mirage. It got to where I no longer play music when we have company just to avoid upsetting people. Jazz is my favorite genre (all types; dixie land, big band, bop, modal, smooth, fusion, avant garde), but I like classical, easy listening, and a little rock & pop too. I have recordings from 1917 through 2010. They all sound great on this system. I've even let my son play some of his heavy metal cds on it, made me wish I'd had this system when I was into that.
As for volume, I normally listen in the moderate or low/moderate range. However, I made sure both the amp and speakers could perform well from very quiet to very loud before buying. I did this because when my wife & I listen together, it gets turned down to set an ambiance. On the rare occassions that we have a party, we want to make sure it can deliver the goods at high volumes and it does!
Art, did you get rid of your REL? I didn't know you had an HSU sub. What do you think of it? And how did you like the Dynamo? That's the sub I currently own, it's not in my system now but I'll be giving it another go soon.
As far as the need for a sub, I have to say that while my Quads probably don't go much lower than 50Hz, they certainly sound as deep as I would ever need them to go. Bass is integrated well into the mix and nothing seems to be missing on the low end. They've always sounded better without a sub (sub integration probably wasn't optimal though). The bass is tight (maybe too tight, I'll be exploring this soon), deep, and has nice fullness and weight.
As long as you enjoy it Dan. Afterall, this is about what sounds good to each individual. I just hope no one thinks I'm trying to twist their arm into getting a sub if there is no percieved need for one.
I'm always happy to read when someone is happy with their system, SJ. Sounds like we have some things in common musically as well.
Yep Dan, I sold my last REL back in the spring I do believe. I have the very inexpensive Hsu STF2 which I think is just a killer buy. However it's big and it's ugly. Sounds great with my small HT system. Never used it for music. I was tempted to when I had pre outs on my Unison amp just to hear it up against the REL.
The Dynamo was a very nice little sub. I really liked it's construction...well done. I found that it had just a bit too much bounce and I never could get it to integrate well. Interestingly the better my mains got the more difficulty I had integrating subs. It may well have more to do with my ineptitude than the quality of the subs but I just couldn't make them work anymore. Somewhere in the audible spectrum they would call attention to themselves and out the door they'd go.
Being happy with what you have is what counts. I noticed you listed quite a few albums that I either have and enjoy or are on my wish list in the music selections thread I've made the persuit of Buddy Rich, Miles & Trane albums a priority for some reason. My son bought me a box set of Trane called "Fearless Leader" a couple yrs ago. It has all 11 of the albums he did for Prestige on 6 cds.
Thanks Art and yes, he is. He just turned 21 in Sept. He just saw the set at Barnes & Noble amd bought it for me out of the blue. His brother will be 20 next month. Both are wonderful human beings. They have very eclectic music taste too!
Interesting conversation gentlemen. I recently hooked up my Dynamo with the new Haydns. Yes, I said new. Long story short, I took back the set with mismatched serial numbers and left the store with a brand new boxed set for the same price ($539.00). I found a store that had two open box set and one brand new set. After some wrangling and four trips to two different Best Buys the manager offered the new ones for the price of the open box less the 10% discount. I eagerly agreed to pay the additional $60.00. However when I returned (returned my pair to one store and picked up the new pair from a different store) my pair, the Magnolia Manager extended the 10% discount to the new pair! I guess it wasn't a short story afterall! LOL.
Any advice for breaking these babies in? I assume just listening to them is best which I planned to a lot of the next four days.
Every time I see your posts it makes me want to track down some Haydns lol. Those deals you've come across on them are amazing. I'm just kind of scared that my little Marantz won't be enough for them....I've read some about Viennas staying on the low side impedance wise.
Freddie, I'm pushing them with a NAD 325 for the time being. Of course I am listening near field and at moderate levels and I'm in a 10x12 room. I hope to sell my Wharfies and the NAD soon and move up to a used Bryston or a Naim.
Well, the whole Haydn adventure sprawled across three weeks and many trips to Best Buy and lots of tenacity. At one point yesterday I almost decided to keep the mismatched pair. The first BB told me there were no more in the area. I've heard that before so I decided to call every store close to my house and as a result found a store with three pairs. I never thought I would leave with a new pair for the same price as the floor models. That wasn't my intent in the first place. I only wanted to exchange for a matched pair. I most say, once I got to the manager, he was very accomodating and personally looked for the new pair. The sales associate referred to them as "ghosts" because the system said they had them in stock but they had not been located.
In the beginning, they told me that they would not match the BB price where I bought the floor models ($597). They were asking $797 for the new and floor models. When the manager got involved, I was shocked when he offered the new pair for the price of the floor models. He arranged with the other store to do a return and instore purchase for the new pair. I did alot of driving but it was worth it!
Following Mordecai's lead, I saw a pair of cherry Vienna Bach Grands at our local BB. It has 2 scratches on each speaker , but has matching serial number and the guy immediately offered them for $500. What do you all think?
Are you sure that is for the pair and not for each speaker. I looked at a pair as well but they were $499 each and they were the floor model. I think Bachs have the same driver and electronics the Haydns do.
No it's definitely the pair and I can probably knock it down another $50. What I don't know looking at these though is why is the Haydn's retail price so much more expensive at $1600 even though it's a bookshelf and the Bach's are $1095 for a floorstanding?
Good question. I can say that when I head the Bachs they didn't have the low end that the Haydns have. Maybe Art or someone can tell you. What it infers to me is that the Bachs are a lower tier speaker than the Haydns. Google them to see what you come up with. Do they have a single woofer and tweeter. BB had two tower speakers. One had two drivers and the other had three (tweeter and two woofers).
i read up on them and the range on the Bach is actually lower at 32k vs. Haydn's 40k and according to Vienna's website: " Similarly, the Haydn Grand's deceptively simple driver complement of a 6" X3P mid-bass driver and refined 1" triple stacked silk-dome tweeter centers around the groundbreaking airflow control wedge bass reflex port (also found on the Bach Grand)"
So those are just specs and partially material, there must be something in the Haydn's class that is on a higher scale than the Bach.
Sorry, I don't know that much about the Vienna A speakers. Listened to 'em a couple of times and found them inoffensive like the Sonus Faber Range. Much more enjoyable for music than about 90% of the dreck out there that folks are selling.
Question for the experts. I hooked up my Dynamo sub (I tried line level and speaker level). Without music playing, I turned up my NAD 325 about 3/4 full volume and I can hear a low buzzing sound. Now, I don't hear this without the sub hooked up. First, is this bad for my speakers? Secondly, why do you think this is happening? Thirdly, which is the best way to connect the sub? Line level with RCA interconnects or speaker level?
Line level or speaker level depends on the design of the sub. The Dynamo was designed to go line level first so that's the best way to connect it. REL subs are designed for the speaker level connection.
The buzzing will not likely hurt the speakers. Can you hear it with the amp at normal volumes (with or without music playing)?
I can't hear the buzz with the usic playing. I can only hear it without music and when I turn the IA up way above normal listening levels. I do hear the buzz without the sub too. I only discovered this because I moved my office recently and the volume was turned way up with the no music by accident. It may have been doing this all along I. It sounds more like static then a buzz. It gets louder the more I turn up the amp. I only listen with about 25% volume max so I never noticed it before.
Hey all! What is fair price to pay for a used Bryston B60? There are two on Audiogon. One is an auction starting at $549, but the seller has no ratings, and provided minimal information. The other one is $725.00 OBO. Since this amp has a 20 year warranty isn't buying used reasonably safe? I emailed the auction seller to find out if he is the original owner, and if he has the receipt for warranty purposes.
I don't like the looks of either seller. If I had to choose I'd ask the 725.00 for pics and more detailed info relative condition. However that seller has no feedback. The other one doesn't look too good IMO.
The original B60 goes for around 800-1100 like Art stated. The later models for go for more. They custom make the new SST2 ones with upgrades such as the DAC that can push the price way up. Some used 6 month year old SST2's with DAC's going for around 2000 around here. Very very good integrated amp.
Best Buy is clearing out their REL T3 subs. Picked up a floor model today for $179. If you can find a store with one in a box they are $199. Been wanting one of these for a while but didn't want to drop $500 large. However, I need a fuse, fuse cover and speakon cable. I'm confused which fuse to buy. I know some of you have this sub. I would like you help on getting the right fuse and help with getting the fuse cover and speakon cable. Can I get these items from Sumiko? I'm going to use this with my NAD C372. It does not have LFE out so I need the speakon cable for the best connection right?
I picked up two pairs of Acculine A3's from Audio Insider for $149 a pair. These are small 2.5 way towers. I have the A1 and A2's in my HT now. These will replace the a2's as fronts in the Main HT system and I moved the A2's to the rear. I bought the other pair as rears in my second system but also to play around with in my 2.1 system. I really like what this changed made in my main HT system. The A2 is really a center channel speaker in MTM consig. The A3 is 2.5 way system. These are returns or NOS that sold for $499 on Audio Insider. They still have some deals on A1 and A2's and Dana as well. It was too good a deal to pass up.
Good to see you Christopher. Hope this Holiday season finds you and all who remain of the old crew here doing well.
Last speakers I bought just for fun was the Quad 11L Classics. They are still here in their box in the closet. My wife is using the Dynaudio speakers with her Rega Brio-R and Apollo. I am listening to Spendor A6R speakers with a Sonneteer amp, Line Magnetic CD player and Well Tempered Simplex table. Lovin' the sound and zero complaints. Home theater is all Wharfedale speakers, Panny plasma and Marantz AVR with Panny BluRay.
The Pioneers in question sure look like fun and if a person were putting together a budget 2 channel system or a cost conscious home theater they would likely be worth a punt. If nothing else you could resell them with little loss.
I have the pioneer towers, and they are good sounding for the money, and you won't be too disappointed as long as you don't expect too much.
They sound a little bright to me in color, but it could be my front end, so I am gonna experiment with NAD and different cables. Right now, I have them mated with adcom and Ixos cables which are bright.
They are definitely the best $100 speaker you can buy, but Boston Acoustics a250 towers are considerably better at $119 each on accessories4less.com No affiliation.