They will probably handle pretty much anything you can throw at them. If I understand correctly, underpowering a speaker is considered more harmful than overpowering it.
I'm asking because I don't really know what I'm asking. I mean, if specs are meaningless, why would they even list a number? If nothing else, one must be closer than the other to the truth. I don't really know if they mean peak, constant, or what. Confusion.
I have a panny xr-55 powering my AS-F2.2s which is rated at 100w X 7, and i have never turned the volume past 1/4 (except during movies). im sure they could handle more but i guarantee you 100w is plenty!!!
If you are wondering why the two sets of numbers disagree, I would suggest you contact the manufacturer for a clarification. I'm certain they have a reason for the variance.
Understand that power handling numbers are more for marketing purposes than real world useage. You can damage any speaker by having insufficient power to drive the system to the levels you might desire. Most tweeters are destroyed by amplifier clipping which results in excessive high order distortion products being produced by an amplifier that is pushed beyond its limitations. Some amplifiers will have what is called "soft clipping" while other amplfiers exhibit "hard clipping". But all amplifiers will clip the signal whea pushed beyond their limits and that is when damage to the speaker can occur. The answer to this problem is to buy a more efficient speaker which will play louder with fewer watts input. To an extent this is what "minimum power" requirements would suggest when combined with efficiency (or sensitivity) specifications. As you can see, neither number by itself will tell the complete story and both are largely numbers chosen by the manufacturer for marketing purposes. As you will eventually discover, two speaker systems, both spec'd at the same sensitivity, will not always play at the same volume level with equal amounts of "power" from two different amplifiers. On paper specs are seldom worth the dead tree they are printed on.
On the other end of the scale, the maximum power requirements, these numbers are totally insufficient to provide any guidelines in regard to what amplifier will suit what speaker. Power handling is a complex equation of frequency, duration (or what is called "Q" of the signal) and level. Low frequencies require far more wattage than high frequencies and low frequencies represent the most dangerous degrees of attack and sustain. While a low bass signal may consume hundreds of watts of "power" which would be mainly current over voltage, a high frequency signal will typically use less than a few watts which will (usually) be made up mostly of pure voltage rather than current. Both ends of the spectrum require far different capabilities from an amplifier and that quickly becomes a rub when trying to decipher specs as a guide to performance. Power handling and wattage specs are, by themself, insufficient to provide the information required to successfully mate the two components.
A low fequency note that is very quick and produced at high levels will cause certain problems for a driver that the same frequency reproduced as a long sustaining signal will not present and vice versa. Both types of signal will ultimately damage a driver if common sense is not applied and levels lowered when distortion sets in. This is the final arbitter of power handling; no matter what speaker and amplifier you are using or what the "specs" indicate, when you hear distortion, turn down the volume or risk damage.
Wow....ummm...this is a lot more involved than I imagined. I certainly appreciate the time and thought that went into these replies, thank you. It almost sounds like trial and error is the only way to figure anything out. I imagine the people that know a lot about this stuff must spend a huge amount on shipping and restocking fees trying out all of the different combinations of equipment. I don't have that kind of cash which is a big part of the reason I'm thankful for the members here willing to save me the trouble with their advice. The lesson I'll take with me today is "beware of clipping" and "never trust specs". Thanks again everyone, I'm going to do some more reading on the forums to see what I can dig up.
Forget the 'peak' part if i was you. Just make sure you have an amp thats at least 35watts per channel into 8 ohms as I'd say you're safe especially with them being 93db/s.
I had the previous AS-F2 and powered them with a 120 watt per channel NAD integrated amp. I think 80 watts per channel minimum would be best for these speakers as you need a little "head room" in your amp. You could purchase a good HK-3380 (80wpc) or HK-3480 (120wpc) receiver for CHEAP and have a nice system for not too much money. HK (Harman-Kardon) and Athena complement each other well. Don't worry about driving the Athenas with 120wpc, no problem they love it.
I always thought you just give them whatever power you want as long as you don't turn it to distortion or high enough that the voice coil can't dissapate the heat fast enough (clipping or just ridiculous POWER) to keep cool enough and overheats from all the current running through it. A wire melts, a short/open circuit occurs, it's all over. That, of course, takes either a very badly designed speaker with a small VC or an EXTREME power level...of course I think that when given too much for the Xmech limit @ the given frequency that the mechanics would be damaged (ripped spider/surround, smashed VC)...
QUESTION! Yes sorry for the hijack..I think the thread's pretty much dead now?
If I were to stick a huge amp on my speakers and kept the excursion at Xmech how long do you think they'd last at 1500hz max excursion (woofers direct to amp)? That's a silly question...not too long!!!! That's LOUD!
My real question though is...as I lean towards speakers now... Would a new ($1000 range) receiver give me much extra volume and clarity over the current Yammy?
Oh..lol also would a pair of speaks ($1000 range) make a large SQ jump (I'm music only these days guys)... or am I better of buying a dvd player (still watch a few movies) or a CD player (dedicated; maybe if I want to only watch DVD's on the old player or Xbox for max SQ..it's not my weakest link though)...
Thanks a lot guys for any help here..sorry for the hijack/intrusion if I am doing either. I'm really wondering and the time is nearing....just coming closer all the time...
I went to audition today... I did NOT bring my speakers in because I went on such short notice.
I did, however, notice that I have liked the sound of the Pioneer Elite receivers on every speaker I've heard them on so far (I will be trying mine later on). I listened to the Vsx-80txv on a pair of Wharfedales (not sure which ones) and I thought there was a subwoofer with their extension and the imaging was great...don't know much yet because what I was hearing was the receiver/speaker combination (Pioner Elite Dvd Player as well)...so I'll get back when I hear my speaks (JBL 4311s, KLH AV5001x too for good measure)....
My brother (the manager) walked in and was like...you break it you buy it, because I know you like to listen loud (my own brother LOL)... he was real stern about it too. Heh, I guess it's because I blew the sub I bought SO quickly.