I'm a little concerned. I just purchased this Reciever. I'm concerned about it's power. I have it all the way up to -20 and it's only at a moderate volume. Pioneer told me it should be blowing me away. Does anyone have any suggestions? They mentioned to me that it may need to be calibrated. How did it get out of adjustment in the first place? How do you calibrate it, it possible?
i have a vsx-47tx and have found the same thing but i think it is normal i can turn it all the way up to +12 and it is super loud and very clean power my dealer says the digital volume controls now a days are different and many of the amps in the stores act this way i remember going less than half way up the dial and ripping your ears off but what difference does it make how far you turn it up really? as long as the power is clean
Thanks Joe and elite. I'm usung the DVD player through the optical connection. I'm also using a Hughs Satillite Tivo unit through another optical connection. Someone told me it's better to use the coaxial connection for the DVD player. Is that true? +12 would be ok. But then I get alot of hiss. I had an Onkyo TXsr600 and it seemed to be cleaner! Maybe I'm just tripping out. But I know that should not happen! I have been able to get into the + numbers then it even shut down. But, I don't want to take it in and have someone charge me 150.00 to tell me it's ok either. Maybe I have some setting wrong. But I have been at it for 2 days straight.
Elite, you mentioned something about calibration in another post you had. Pioneer did tell me that my reciever may need calibration. They told me it had to be done by a service tech. Is the calibration you're talking about different from theirs? I was thinking there may be some trim pots either inside the 43's casing or some fancy knob pusshing that has to go on that allows you to control the trim level using the knobs in front. What do you think ?
OK, I played with this thing some more. The bass and the treble were pumped up to +6. There were a few other adjustment I made too. The hiss is still there. but I can really tell the difference in separation between the Onkyo and the Elite. The elite is much more detailed. at -15 the volume is moderately loud in a 22 x 12 room. I may try resetting the reciever if I cannot get rid of the hiss. All I know is there should be no reason why I should hear hiss with this much power. Do you think an electrical power conditioner would help?
James, The type of connection should not matter one bit and you should not hear any hiss at all .I can turn my volume on my Elite 45 up to 0 and it's deathly quiet. I hope you don't have a defective unit. The hiss would drive me nuts. I have never had a conditioner so I can't comment on that but if not to impratical take the receiver to another location in your house or to a friends house and see if it is still doing the same thing. Good luck.
I have a Pioneer Elite 49Txi and have zero hiss--even if turned up obscenely loud. I was given as a present an $800 Monster Cable power conditioner and notice zero difference. A neighbor that owns an expensive Richard Gray unit hooked it up to both my systems-- we both noticed zero difference. Of course I think it is a good idea to have quality power surge protection on all your expensive equipment.
The only calibration I am familiar with on some Elite receivers is the manual or automatic speaker balancing system--and that should have no effect on hiss.
Sounds like either the volume pot is dirty, the speaker wires or interconnects are picking up interference, or there is an internal problem on your receiver.
By the way, is the hiss coming from all your speakers?
You may want to borrow or get a loaner line conditioner and see if it has an effect--but I doubt it can. I can't imagine that hiss is being caused by electricity coming in from the wall--rather it is generated by something I mentioned above. The electricity coming in through the wall has to be converted by the receiver (or any component)to DC current anyway--so any conditioning of it as AC current seems pointless.
Thanks Greg! The Hiss is mostly coming from my surround speakers, which I do admit are pretty cheap(the old radio shack metal encased ones recently purchased by RCA). However, I'm not sure if I noticed this same sound coming from my Onkyo when I hooked it up. I guess I will just have to disconnect my Pioneer and connect up the onkyo. See if I still hear the hiss. It's not like a real loud hiss, but the surround speakers area about 3 feet from me on either side of the sofa, so my ear is pretty much right on the speaker. The whole system is wired with really thick no name cable and Monster cable for the 2 fronts.
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Hi, May i know where have you got the pioneer elite 43 tx?.Am looking for one real bad.Thanks.
While the 43TX basically has the same amplifier and much of the same circuits as some other Elites, the 43TX lacks the auto MCACC (only manual), no phono input and does not support component video switching or component OSD.
There are various places that sell the 53Tx for under $700 delivered--but PE won't honor warranty on those--just as the cheap places that used to sell th3 43TX wouldn't honor those warranties. One can normally purchase warranties, but on most solid state receivers if they work when you get them they will invariably outlast whatever warranty PE gives them.
It will be very difficult to find a new 43TX as it has been discontinued. I didn't see any at audiogon.com---just a 55TXi for $850.
The 43tx does have component switching, 2 in and 1 out. $850 for the 55txi is a steal. I don't know about audiogon.com and their return/warranty policies but a co-worker just bought the Elite59txi from dynaco.com for $2574 and they have the full 2 year warranty. Great receiver and a great price. One other thing about the 43. It has a lousy remote and the 53 uses the same one.
what is the definition of component video switching. I know the 43tx has 2-component ins and one master component out. I thought that was component video switching. What's MCACC?
If you have multiple sources going into your TV, an A/V receiver with switching capabilities can ease the situation. The most-convenient option is to leave your TV set to one input (hopefully component for highest quality) and have the receiver switch all other sources into that input. Unfortunately, most receivers don't convert from, for instance, composite or S-Video to component video. Many receivers have regular component-video switching, though, which is a great feature if you have both a DVD player and an HDTV receiver.
From the above you can see that component switching can cover a bit of territory. Sure, the 43TX can switch between two component inputs, but it can't convert/switch an S-Video VHS player up to component video. Hence, if you have other video sources from composite to S-Video they will all have to be connected separately to the monitor. On some mid and most upscale receivers, every video input is switched or converted to component video--meaning you only have one component video connection to the monitor (TV).
On a Pioneer receiver the MCACC is Multi-Channel Acoustic Calibration System. It comes in various flavors or is totally absent, depending on the model you have. It comes in manual, 2 types of automatic (the type 2 automatic being on the 53TX and 55TXi) and finally the advanced automatic, which is on the 59TXi.
The purpose of MCACC is to balance the speakers in a surround system to where the individual normally sits. It acoustically balances the soundfield and generally will reveal more sonic detail, when done properly.
Other companies have come out with systems that are similar, since Pioneer started the trend a couple of years ago.
Greg, thanks so much for that information. That component video switching would have been a great convenince to me. I do have some sort of feature that allows me to adjust the deley level by distance. I'm not sure if that is the MCACC you were referring to. Thanks for your information.
Adjusting the delay can be done by a number of receivers separately. These receivers have delay controls to individually set by various nanoseconds the arrival of sound from the different speakers. Whether or not the 43TX has a separate function for delays I couldn't answer--as I don't have the manual.
I have the 49TXi and a handy feature on the 49TXi (that I mentioned earlier)is a video converter that decodes composite and S-video signals to component form. This allows you to use a single set of component connections from the receiver to a component-capable video display for all video sources. It also has the microphone-equipped Multichannel Acoustic Calibration System (MCACC) system which allows for complete automatic system calibration, including levels, distance delay, and multiband EQ--or you can set most of them individually using built-in test tones and an SPL meter--as you can get an SPL meter at Radio Shack. (Setting speaker EQ this way requires test CDs and a certain amount of skill and patience.)
Gregory, I wanted to get your opinion on these gimmick cables that I have recently seen.
1. Coaxial- how does it differ from a really good RCA type audio cable.
2. Spdif cables- Does the quality of the spidif cable make a difference?
3. Subwoofer cable - Oh come on here. What makes this so difference from a really good audio cable?
All the above-What quality level(monster standard, pro, etc) would make a sonic difference, without diminishing returns?
I guess my over all question is. Which one of these cables really have a valid use and will make a difference between wasting or spending 30-50.00 bucks for it?
I just use any good inexpensive speaker wire that is from 12-16 gauge (depending on how long the runs).
On my cd player I use either an optical connect or a coaxial digital connect--whichever is cheaper. All it is doing is moving "1's" and "0's"--just like a computer.
I have 2 dvd players--one connect with firewire, the other with well-made (but inexpensive) RCA interconnects.
Partsexpress.com has a good selection of high quality and inexpensive speaker wire and interconnects. You can get great speaker wire for 50 cents a foot or even 30 cents. Good optical connects for $20 or less.