from what ive read the lfe should be set +10 db up from the other speakers to get better impact.
my receiver has lfe settings of off, 0, or +10. i have it set at +10. i have a hsu stf-2 with gain set at 10:30.
my question is if it is taxing on the sub to have the lfe set that high? or would i be better off setting lfe at 0 and dropping the other speakers down 10 dbs?
In theory, you are supposed to use a calibration disk like Avia or the pink noise generator on your receiver to match the output levels to not your sub along with all of your speakers.
However it would not be a mortal sin to crank up your sub's output level above that of the other speakers if you simply happen to be a basshead and have already exhausted your sub placement options.
Just don't crank it to the point of distortion and clipping, is all.
My local Marantz dealer once told me not to add more than +4 to any of the individual speaker levels, I forget his rationale but I think it had something to do with straining the receiver.
So for your sub what I might suggest is decrease the receiver's levels but increase the sub's gain. Maybe +5 on the receiver and 2 o'clock on the sub.
I know that in car audio there is a systematic way to set an external amp's gain vs. the head unit's volume to maximize signal-to-noise-ratio and minimize distortion. Who knows, it might well apply with a powered sub and AVR too. I'd ask around or Google up some car audio forums and experiment.
How you are presenting the information is not correct. I think what you may be referring to is LFE correction tables for use with a SPL ( sound pressure level) meter, which on a typical slow C weighting will read the lower frequencies at about 3 DB off of what is really happening. This is a generalization obviously since I am not specifying the exact correction for the exact frequency at a given SPL reading. But in general you will need to increase a sub 3 DB over the SPL meter reading to get a closer SPL match with the other speakers.
oops yeah I forgot to mention using an SPL meter. Didn't know about the 3db cushion though, thanks.
I just have the gain on my Mirage S12 set at 1 o'clock and like to play with my Panny remote's sub "+" and "-" buttons instead...neanderthal that I am! : P
Using a disk such as Avia is very informative, as Edster suggested. Borrow one from a friend if possible. I was very surprised that my STF-3 gain level had to be turned down very low to be properly calibrated. Then it simply disappeared and merged with the music from the mains.
I know AVIA Guide to Home Theater and Digital Video Essentials. They are available in large surface electronics stores and on-line. The video portions of pictures calibration may not be adapted to HDTV slim screens, depending on what you buy. I'm not too sure since I still own a plain 52" RPTV.
I have the DVD and a JVC D-ILA digital TV. The DVD is still useful for calibrating the set's 480i/480p settings. My TV has 2 settings, one for 480i/480p inputs and the other for 720p/1080i. So far I have not come across any HD cablibration sources, it would be nice if they were offered on PBS HD or the Xbox 360, until the next-gen discs come out. Presently it may be possible to do calibration in HD using a PC and a video card capable of outputing HD, but my video card only has S-video.
i have 2 15" spl subs in a box.. but the box has 2 little holes bout the size of a nickle on it... so... whould it hit harder if i made bigger holes????? or what should i do???????????????????????????????